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General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Chino on April 04, 2012, 12:23:04 PM
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Seeing as we don't have a thread like this, I figured I'd start one. In this thread we can discuss anything that is going on in the car world.
I'd like to start with the newly unveiled Dodge Viper.
(https://i2.cdn.turner.com/money/2012/04/04/autos/viper-srt-new-york-auto-show/2013-srt-viper.jc.top.jpg)
I think it looks amazing, almost like a Viper, Corvetter, Ferrari hybrid, but I have never really been a fan of the Viper in the past. I'd love to drive one in a straight line as fast as I could, but that's about it. I couldn't find a price, but I'd think it would be in the $90k range. There are many other car's I'd prefer to have that are less expensive.
https://money.cnn.com/2012/04/04/autos/viper-srt-new-york-auto-show/index.htm
The Dodge Viper has been out of production since 2010 but Chrysler Group unveiled a new version, powered by a huge 8.4 liter V10 engine, at the New York Auto Show Wednesday.
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That's a sweet looking car.
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Wow I thought the Viper was completely discontinued. Pretty sweet.
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It looks like it's got that goofy looking Corvette ass end. Not a fan.
And in this day and age, I always have to wonder how many distinct steps have to be taken to reel off a fast 0-60 time.
It's interesting. I occasionally wonder what kind of car I'd buy if I had unlimited funds, and even if I could afford a new Lamborghini, I think I'd still probably wind up buying a '98 or so M3. It kind of seems to me like the late '90s are where you reached a pinnacle of having modern, safe and luxurious cars, that were still full blown sports cars at heart. Everything nowadays is too high-tech for it's own good.
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I went to the DMV today and renewed my tabs. Then they told me I was due for new plates. After that I bought a new frame for my new plates
For some odd reason, I love renewing the tabs
And in regards to El Barto, if I had unlimited funds, I'd buy the new Ford Explorer. Sharp looking vehicle although I like the older models too
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Not a bad looking viper, I was able to drive an RT10 a few years back (hrmm more like 7 years ago I think) and while it's a beast, it's a bitch to drive so day to day would be a hassle.
I drove a countach that a neighbor had also a few years ago and that thing was impossible to drive, it looked fantastic tho.
Unlimited funds I'd probably do a brand new M3, I've been debating picking up a used M3 something from the V8 era or a 335i of the same year but I just haven't had the time to drive them. Those are some gorgeous cars tho.
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Seeing as we don't have a thread like this, I figured I'd start one. In this thread we can discuss anything that is going on in the car world.
I'd like to start with the newly unveiled Dodge Viper.
(https://i2.cdn.turner.com/money/2012/04/04/autos/viper-srt-new-york-auto-show/2013-srt-viper.jc.top.jpg)
I think it looks amazing, almost like a Viper, Corvetter, Ferrari hybrid, but I have never really been a fan of the Viper in the past. I'd love to drive one in a straight line as fast as I could, but that's about it. I couldn't find a price, but I'd think it would be in the $90k range. There are many other car's I'd prefer to have that are less expensive.
https://money.cnn.com/2012/04/04/autos/viper-srt-new-york-auto-show/index.htm
The Dodge Viper has been out of production since 2010 but Chrysler Group unveiled a new version, powered by a huge 8.4 liter V10 engine, at the New York Auto Show Wednesday.
I once had sexual relations with a brunette chick named Cherry in her Dodge Viper (this was long before I met my wife). She was stunning. Met her at a conference. A group of us went out afterward with some locals and drove to a sports bar and got hammered. She asked me if I could drive back to the hotel. I was much less hammered than she, and against better judgement, drove her Viper anyway back to my hotel. In the garage, the engine had barley been shut off, when she said to me "My boyfriend doesn't give me what I need", and pulled her dress off, then climbed into my lap. I would have never guessed you could have sex in the drivers seat of a Viper, but we did. :biggrin: She was really drunk, so what I wound up thinking of mostly about half way through was "Man...this is really an awesome car!" and shortly thereafter "Once she's finished I'm gonna take her into my room and do this the right way." :biggrin: Ahhh...good times.
Back to cars...I want the new Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4
https://www.aventador.com/
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Not a bad looking viper, I was able to drive an RT10 a few years back (hrmm more like 7 years ago I think) and while it's a beast, it's a bitch to drive so day to day would be a hassle.
I drove a countach that a neighbor had also a few years ago and that thing was impossible to drive, it looked fantastic tho.
What made the Countach and Viper difficult to drive? I imagine the clutch would be stiff as a brick on both of those.
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I doubt there's a clutch at all on those. My guess regarding difficulty is that they're overpowered. I used to drive a friends IROC Z, and without any traction control you'd wind up spitting gravel all over the car behind you without going anywhere. I didn't driver hers enough to master it, but I suppose you would, and that's where the fun is; learning to keep it at the threshold.
The other thing is handling. Most of us are used to FF or FR cars, and once you move all the weight to the back, the handling becomes something completely different than what you expect. Awesome when you learn to work with it, dangerous as hell for a novice. As my mechanic is fond of saying, the most dangerous thing you can ever do in a 911 is use the brakes.
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the countach and viper have always been manuals actually. I didn't consider massive amounts of wheelspin though
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Not a bad looking viper, I was able to drive an RT10 a few years back (hrmm more like 7 years ago I think) and while it's a beast, it's a bitch to drive so day to day would be a hassle.
I drove a countach that a neighbor had also a few years ago and that thing was impossible to drive, it looked fantastic tho.
What made the Countach and Viper difficult to drive? I imagine the clutch would be stiff as a brick on both of those.
The Viper was hard simply because I just wasn't used to that much power, it was also a little damp from rain so the tires would spin at every opportunity (had slicks on with two small grooves, don't know how those tires were legal). I was 18 at the time and it just overwhelmed the shit out of me.
The main issue with the countach was shifting gears, it was some serious work and it really caught me off guard how hard the clutch, moving the shifter felt like pushing a block with your hand. No creature comforts which is fine until I realized that the windows were actually little square holes, and this was in Florida during the summer and the countach was black.
If I owned an RT10 I could get used to and use that thing a few times a week. As for the countach, well you'd really have to love that car to be able to drive it day to day IMO.
By comparison driving a 911 was a piece of cake.
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I know Jay Leno had a Countach as a daily driver for a long ass time. don't know how the guy did it.
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I do not like this new Viper.
I loved the original 1st generation from 1992 or whatever, then the slight redesign and making it more street drivable (power windows/steering etc.)
I also loved the redesign to 3rd and 4th generation that tamed some of the angles so to speak, but brought back the door exhaust and keeping the near exotic look. I think the C6 Vette highly borrowed design ques from this generation.
This 5th generation looks like the C6 Vette that ripped from the 3rd gen Viper.
Further, if I could buy one, I would NEVER get a hardtop, performance be damned. This car has always looked better as a droptop IMO.
How can a handful of people on this forum actually have driven/owned Vipers, or even driven cars more expensive? Do people here have that much $$$? Owning one of these cars was a pipe dream I gave many many years ago. And to me, owning a drag car is never worth it in the US because of all of the laws and remoteness of strips.
If I get extra money, I will do the off-roading thing...cheaper and more unpredictable, but that is just me I suppose. :biggrin:
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I didn't own one. At the time I worked as an accountant for a real estate office as a side job while I went to school. The owner's husband owned one and he knew I loved cars so he just let me drive it.
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What are all of your thoughts on the new VW Beetle? Personally, I love it. I don't know why. It's not like it's all different than the previous gen. I guess I think it just looks a little more manly. The interior got a seriously sweet overhaul. No more flower vase :tup
(https://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2011/12/08-2012-vw-beetle-turbo-review-1323239811-opt.jpg)
(https://image.motortrend.com/f/33899698+w786+ar1/2012-volkswagen-beetle-turbo-front-seats.jpg)
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I hate Beetles. Girly.
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I think it looks good, soon it'll be one with the 911 again lol
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Any thoughts on the 2005 Ford Mustang GT Deluxe? I'm going for a test drive in an hour. 28k miles, automatic ( :censored) and it's gorgeous. Blue exterior, black interior with blue highlights, leather seats. Asking $16k.
Any serious problems I should be aware of? I'm not walking away with the car tonight, just wanted to drive it for the heck of it, but with my 99 Mustang V6 at 183k miles, I'm looking for a replacement.
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Any serious problems I should be aware of?
You mean aside from it being a Ford?
I rented a Mustang around 05 or so, and thought it was a pretty lousy car. Not comfortable and not fast. I recall thinking the transmission sucked, as well. I'm sure the GT will be a better car, but still not my bag. I rented a vert around 08 or so and thought it was a much better car. Still nothing great, but I certainly didn't hate it like the first one.
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Yeah, I've read reports that the V6 transmission had some issues. Coming from my current car, I think it would be a huge step up. Any suggestions for similar cars that might get me better bang for my buck? I wouldn't mind dropping below a 4.0L to save on insurance either.
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Unlimited funds I'd probably do a brand new M3, I've been debating picking up a used M3 something from the V8 era or a 335i of the same year but I just haven't had the time to drive them. Those are some gorgeous cars tho.
I'm looking at getting an E46 right now. My insurance for it is going to be slightly ludicrous...
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Yeah, I've read reports that the V6 transmission had some issues. Coming from my current car, I think it would be a huge step up. Any suggestions for similar cars that might get me better bang for my buck? I wouldn't mind dropping below a 4.0L to save on insurance either.
I wouldn't put too much stock in my experience with the car. Keep in mind it was a low end Mustang I got from Dollar Rent a Car. Mostly I'm just ragging on it because it's a Ford. If you're a Mustang kinda guy, don't let me dissuade you.
There actually do seem to be a lot of people posting about problems with the Mustang tranny, but honestly, you'll see that with any automatic transmission.
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My gfs dad just bought an 05 mustang GT and he loves it.
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Well, I test drove it.
I hate it. The guy modded it with everything you can think of, cosmetically. New bumpers, completely redesigned interior. It looks great actually. But it drives poorly. It appeared to be lowered a bit, because the suspension felt stiff and bumpy. It also confirmed that with any kind of car with decent power, a manual transmission is required.
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My 99 Mustang just bit the bullet. I had just put a tune on it from American Muscle/BAMA and shortly after loading it (20 miles tops) head gasket blew. Engine is toast, and they want $3500 to replace it. Not gonna happen, considering that's how much I paid for the car several years ago.
I got my motorcycle, so I'm not in a rush to get a new car, but I'll either be buying a used car in cash ($5k tops) or a newer used car from a dealership on a loan.
Any suggestions? I'd like to have a 4 door since the Mustang had horrible seating room in the back.
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Call me old fashioned/hick/back country, but I just want a nice truck. A Ford F-150, but not the fucking feminine ones they're making now.
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I'm considering a 2012 Mazda 3 i Touring with their new Skyactiv engine. Looks really sweet, and despite it being a compact car, it's got more room (and two more doors) than my Mustang.
(https://stwot.motortrend.com/files/2012/01/2012-Mazda3-front-view-623x389.jpg)
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I have a 2004 Mazda 3 hatchback. Other than a well known $1550.00 defect that I had to eat, I love the car. I just passed 132,000 miles a few days ago and it's still running pretty good.
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My 99 Mustang just bit the bullet. I had just put a tune on it from American Muscle/BAMA and shortly after loading it (20 miles tops) head gasket blew. Engine is toast, and they want $3500 to replace it. Not gonna happen, considering that's how much I paid for the car several years ago.
I got my motorcycle, so I'm not in a rush to get a new car, but I'll either be buying a used car in cash ($5k tops) or a newer used car from a dealership on a loan.
Any suggestions? I'd like to have a 4 door since the Mustang had horrible seating room in the back.
That sounds like dealership prices. You shouldn't have to pay nearly that much for a head gasket on that car. Hell, if nothing else you can just buy an engine to put in there. Those cars are ubiquitous, and every day some stupid kid rolls his 22 times and coughs up a perfectly good engine into the great material continuum.
If you want a different car, obviously I'm going to recommend a BMW. $5k can buy you a perfectly nice ride out there.
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(https://media.il.edmunds-media.com/lamborghini/aventador/2011/ns/2011_lamborghini_aventador_f34_ns_30911_717.jpg)
(https://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2011/02/lamborghini-aventador-lp700-4---08-opt.jpg)
Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4
700bhp, 690lb-ft of torque
Top speed of 217mph
0-62mph in 2.9 seconds
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I don't have any interest in cars but I like watching Top Gear. BBC one only.
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My 99 Mustang just bit the bullet. I had just put a tune on it from American Muscle/BAMA and shortly after loading it (20 miles tops) head gasket blew. Engine is toast, and they want $3500 to replace it. Not gonna happen, considering that's how much I paid for the car several years ago.
I got my motorcycle, so I'm not in a rush to get a new car, but I'll either be buying a used car in cash ($5k tops) or a newer used car from a dealership on a loan.
Any suggestions? I'd like to have a 4 door since the Mustang had horrible seating room in the back.
That sounds like dealership prices. You shouldn't have to pay nearly that much for a head gasket on that car. Hell, if nothing else you can just buy an engine to put in there. Those cars are ubiquitous, and every day some stupid kid rolls his 22 times and coughs up a perfectly good engine into the great material continuum.
If you want a different car, obviously I'm going to recommend a BMW. $5k can buy you a perfectly nice ride out there.
That quote was for parts and labor for a new engine install, not just a head gasket. While I'm sure I could have gotten by for a bit with an engine flush and a new gasket, the car already had 182k miles and had numerous problems. 12V outlets shorting out, dome light perpetually on (removed bulb as a fix), both headers cracked, etc. Rather than throw down a bunch of money to put off the inevitable, I figured I'd put the same amount into a new car with a factory warranty.
I finalized the price for my Mazda 3 this evening as well. Got it exactly how I want it in color and options. Negotiated them to $1400 under dealer invoice as well. They're picking it up from the port and detailing it tomorrow, so it'll be as brand new as it can be. I'm really excited! :caffeine:
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I drive an 02 Mitsubishi Gallant
How good or bad a car would you people say it is?
Also, I have a question for anyone able to answer:
Why did some of the Japanese companies stop regularly making sports cars like the Supra, Celica, RX-7, GT-3000, MR-2, S-2000, ect?
It seem like Mitsubishi and Subaru are the only ones that even play up their 'sporty' image anymore, as far as I know.
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Shake... Look up the RX-8
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I know of the RX-8.
Going to its wiki page, I found out it died out in 2011.
I'm surprised it lasted that long; I thought it had been discontinued years ago.
Wonderful car, I must say.
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Well shit.. I wonder if they are going to continue the Rotary Engine.
also on an unrelated note... apparently Ford discontinued the Ranger...
I died a little when I read that.
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Wait, fuel continues to be expensive and they discontine their smallest truck?
Sounds like they've gotten things backwards.
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Well.. the market is apparently gone... in 2011 they sold 55k in the US... compared to the 300k a year sold in the mid nineties. Look at Toyota and Nissan... the Tacoma and Frontier have grown from small to mid sized, and the GM compact pickups (s-10 and Sonoma) have been replaced with larger models.
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So it's a case of people in general wanting bigger small trucks?
One would think that consumers would be seeking out small, more fuel-efficient autos, even in the trucks and land-yacht markets.
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I drive an 02 Mitsubishi Gallant
How good or bad a car would you people say it is?
Also, I have a question for anyone able to answer:
Why did some of the Japanese companies stop regularly making sports cars like the Supra, Celica, RX-7, GT-3000, MR-2, S-2000, ect?
It seem like Mitsubishi and Subaru are the only ones that even play up their 'sporty' image anymore, as far as I know.
I had a 3000GT for a summer when I was younger and it was both awesome and terrible. Mitsubishi are notorious for valve issues, at least that's what my dad would tell me (he ran three shops and worked on mitsus regularly)
Some Japanese companies still do make sports cars that never make it to the States. As for Mitsubishi I believe they said a while back that they wanted almost their whole lineup to be fuel efficient hybrid cars. I'm upset they killed off the EVO :(
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Killing off the EVO?
That's a shame, right there!
I mean, I understand the value of cheap, small, fuel-efficient autos, but I see no reason why true sports cars shouldn't be offered when people want them.
I mean, for all the criticisms that can be made about sports cars, they're hella more harmless than SUVs. And all those huge-ass cars of the late 60s and early 70s, there's no way a Lancer or Supra or something like that could be anywhere as awful at M's per G as those dinosaurs! :P
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Yup EVO is gone :sadpanda:
I remember I sold my CBR600 to this that wanted to learn how to ride. She came over in an EVO 11 blonde, just beautiful, I figured it was her boyfriends car.
So she calls me and tells me she'll buy it but she can't ride so she asked if I could ride it to her house which I did. When I got there I talked to her, she was a single 28 year old biomedical engineer who was a bit of a gear head. She owned the EVO as well as an RX-7, and she turned a neon into a beater track car (roll cage, gutted interior). She took me back in the EVO and holy hell what an amazing ride that car was.
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Well shit.. I wonder if they are going to continue the Rotary Engine.
It'll always exist as a niche market item. They're still well suited for racing where people can wind them up to 10k. I suspect a properly tuned racing Wankel would probably still have some power up there. The commercial versions certainly didn't. My experience was that the RX7 was a cool car with a needlessly weird engine. Given the wear and tear on the apex seals, and the need to redline them on a regular basis to burn off carbon deposits, they're just not well suited to Joe Blow.
Mazda will continue to produce them just because the RX8/RENESIS platform is reasonably stable and people like it. I suspect that if they were to suddenly put a standard piston engine in there, it'd lose it's uniqueness and be the end of the model.
So it's a case of people in general wanting bigger small trucks?
One would think that consumers would be seeking out small, more fuel-efficient autos, even in the trucks and land-yacht markets.
Not sure about the rest of the US, but I can tell you that down here in Superficialville, the shitty mileage is the whole point. The wealthy tree huggers drive Priuses because that's what treehuggers do, and the wealthy conservatives drive H2's and Escallades to show everybody that they don't need to worry about gas prices. Driving something smaller would suggest that you can't afford a bigger ride.
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Drove an IKA Torino a little while back. what an amazing vehicle.
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cc/Torino_TS.jpg)
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Has anybody ever owned or had any experience with Toyota Corollas?
There's a 2001 Toyota Corolla with 90,000 miles on it which I'm thinking about buying, but I feel kind of weary about the 90,000 miles.
From what I hear, these cars can go to well over 200,000 miles so I was just curious what you guys thought. They are asking $4900 for it.
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Most of the time it's the previous owners that are more important than the mileage. A Toyota is pretty much expected to pass 200k by a long shot. However, that doesn't mean that it'd be trouble free for those miles. If it's been very well maintained then you should have no concerns about it. If you don't get the feeling that it's owners have taken good care of it you should pass.
I don't know what the market is for those things, but $4500 will buy a lot of cars, and I suspect you could do better than a corolla for that much.
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I've had 2 Corolla's that lasted over 200,000 miles. The only problem I had in the past is body rot. My 2008 Corolla doesn't have that problem.
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Has anybody ever owned or had any experience with Toyota Corollas?
There's a 2001 Toyota Corolla with 90,000 miles on it which I'm thinking about buying, but I feel kind of weary about the 90,000 miles.
From what I hear, these cars can go to well over 200,000 miles so I was just curious what you guys thought. They are asking $4900 for it.
basically what Barto said. If it's been maintained well, and you plan to do the same, expect it to last that long.
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Thanks guys.
I think I may just take some extra time and shop around a bit more. See it any else pops up.
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Anyone has had some experiences with Honda/Acura Integra? There's this guy who's selling a '95 Integra for a reasonable price here. Looks good on the outside but I don't know about the aging of the car. In 3 years it will have 20!
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What kind of windshield wipers do you guys use on your car? I have Bosch Icon blades on in conjunction with some Rain-X Rain Repellent which actually works well
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What kind of windshield wipers do you guys use on your car? I have Bosch Icon blades on in conjunction with some Rain-X Rain Repellent which actually works well
Cheapest ones possible. New blades work great no matter what the brand is, and 12 month old blades suck no matter what the brand is. Better off buying three pairs of the Autozone wipers for less than a pair of Bosch.
Rain X is great, if I can ever remember to apply it BEFORE IT RAINS.
Anyone has had some experiences with Honda/Acura Integra? There's this guy who's selling a '95 Integra for a reasonable price here. Looks good on the outside but I don't know about the aging of the car. In 3 years it will have 20!
Same answer as Phoenix's Corolla. Depends on the previous owners. I will say that 20's getting on up there for a car. However, if it's a good car it's still fine. I think my E30 was 22 when I retired it, but it really was about a corpse at that point. What you have to keep in mind when dealing with old cars is that motors can last decades. Any modern engine that's reasonably well maintained should get 2-300k pretty easily. The rest of the car really starts to decline before then, though. I'd probably still be driving that E30 except for a ton of little things started to catch up to it. Seats were shot. Paint was shot. Half the dashboard didn't work. Exhaust system was pretty much gone. Rather than being undrivable it was just unpleasant and, more annoyingly uninspectable.
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Might be picking up a 93 Stang next week for $2k. Woot woot
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Just got an E46 M3. She's a beast.
:xbones
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Just got an E46 M3. She's a beast.
:xbones
Does it have a clutch that you operate?
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Most definitely!
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WTG. True manuals are becoming scarce in American BMW's.
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Just got an E46 M3. She's a beast.
:xbones
PICS!
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Thanks! Yeah, it's kind of sad. Mostly in the name of emissions, too, right?
I'll probably take more pics the next time I give it a good wash:
(https://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g98/ddtonfire/DSC01028.jpg)
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I don't think emissions are a factor. Americans just aren't interested in spirited driving anymore. BMW's in particular have adapted to that. Recall that 25 years ago they wouldn't even put cup holders in their cars because people should be driving and not drinking coffee. Now they're mostly importing luxury cars and pseudo-sports cars for poseurs.
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I came
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:lol
You should see the inside. Put it in sport mode and every time I press down on the pedal...
(https://www.reactionface.info/sites/default/files/images/1310650820313.jpg)
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What does sport mode do in a manual car? Tighten up throttle response?
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It tinkers with the traction control, which has several modes, and it also adjusts the throttle mapping. Rather than being a direct 1 to 1 ratio between pedal travel and engine acceleration, like older cars, the pedal is mapped with an acceleration curve. This is to make it easier to drive about town without peeling out at every light. Sport mode undoes that mapping and gives you a (logically) more direct link to the accelerator. Pedal equals go!
Graphs be here: https://forum.roadfly.com/threads/5972501-M3-sport-normal-throttle-mapping-pics-inside!
BTW, I had to research this too, as I asked the exact same question.
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Neat, thanks for that! It makes a lot more sense now.
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Neat, thanks for that! It makes a lot more sense now.
https://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1356858
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My car is dead, it won't make it past its next MOT, so I need a new one. Got no cash though so got my eye on a £800 little Nissan Micra, 40k miles on the clock and immaculate condition as it was owned by an old lady who died, in the meantime my friend is lending me his Mazda TS2 (how amazing is he?!) as I really DO need a car (I'm a pizza delivery person for one job, and the other requires either a 20 mile commute or £7 a day public transport).
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When buying a car from a dealer (a used car in this case) how much can they typically wiggle on the price?
The sticker price on the car is $5700 and I would like to talk him down to like $5400. Is $300 off too much to ask for?
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When buying a car from a dealer (a used car in this case) how much can they typically wiggle on the price?
The sticker price on the car is $5700 and I would like to talk him down to like $5400. Is $300 off too much to ask for?
No that's perfectly reasonable. Don't be afraid to walk away, when buying my golf I shot $1200 below sticker (it was a used price). Walked out, got a call 3 hours later and he sold it.
My car is dead, it won't make it past its next MOT, so I need a new one. Got no cash though so got my eye on a £800 little Nissan Micra, 40k miles on the clock and immaculate condition as it was owned by an old lady who died, in the meantime my friend is lending me his Mazda TS2 (how amazing is he?!) as I really DO need a car (I'm a pizza delivery person for one job, and the other requires either a 20 mile commute or £7 a day public transport).
Every time I visit the UK (going again in July w00t!) I'm blown away at how cheap good cars are. We need MOT over in Florida.
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When buying a car from a dealer (a used car in this case) how much can they typically wiggle on the price?
The sticker price on the car is $5700 and I would like to talk him down to like $5400. Is $300 off too much to ask for?
No that's perfectly reasonable. Don't be afraid to walk away, when buying my golf I shot $1200 below sticker (it was a used price). Walked out, got a call 3 hours later and he sold it.
Yeah, walking away from a salesman scares the bejeezus out of them. Their powers from from always being the person in control. If they think they're in charge and you suddenly get up and start walking out, it's a real shot to the kidneys.
Anytime this comes up I post this: https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/confessions-of-a-car-salesman.html
It was a series from Edmunds, where one of their writers went undercover working at two different car lots over a six month period. He tells you all the tricks, and it's an amazingly useful read. I think the four-square is a thing of the past, with that fair credit law and all, but it's still great intel.
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@ Barto as you seem to be the resident mechanic
My Ford Windstar (2003) last year of production has been giving me some early signs the transmission might be going
was driving on the highway when the tranny light came on and the car seem to lose most of its power....pulled over turned the car of and turned it back over and it ran fine (this only happened once about 4 months ago) but since than I've noticed it runs alittle rough when I start it up in the morning, also recently when putting the car into reverse to back out , I notice a squealling noise and its seems to run rough, entire car kinds of shimmy's . Again this is only after a cold start in the morning, once the car has been running foir awhile I don't seem to have this issue
Looking a multiple forums seems the windstar tranny is a major problem once the car goes over 100k (mine currently has 120K) on it .
Don't have a mechanic I can trust to not drag me over the coals and don't want to take it to Ford because everytime I do they find problems other than the one I brought it in for
Any ideas/suggestions
PS I am mechanically inept
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My guess is that you're looking at a couple of different issues. Modern automatic transmissions have pretty nifty trick, which is that when they detect some sort of fault they go into what's known as limp mode. I suspect each manufacturer is different, but in the case of my BMW (which incidentally might have the same tranny as your Ford), it'll lock the car into it's highest gear. This is to keep the RPMs low to prevent any damage. When that happens, you accelerate about as fast a 1972 Ford school bus. It feels like you have no power, but it's really just that the car is trying to start off in 5th gear. When you turn the car off for a minute or so, it'll reset and until that fault pops up again, all is well. Limp mode is designed to, as the name implies, allow you to drive very slowly to the mechanic so he can charge you $3k for a new tranny. If it's only happened once in 4 months, I wouldn't be worried. If it becomes more frequent, then you might have an issue.
As for the rough running, that could be any number of things. It's also probably what caused the tranny fault that you experienced. It could also be completely unrelated. If you think about it, once your car suggests that there's a very expensive transmission problem looming, you pay much more attention to everything that's going on. The roughness might have been there for a while, or more likely had been getting worse gradually enough that you hadn't noticed until you got worried about the car.
The good news is that any competent mechanic can plug a laptop into your dashboard and tell you pretty quickly what's going on with the engine. I can name a dozen different things that are cheap and easy that could cause it, so there's no reason to be worried. Just get online and fine somebody reputable, then let him ask the car what's going on.
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When buying a car from a dealer (a used car in this case) how much can they typically wiggle on the price?
The sticker price on the car is $5700 and I would like to talk him down to like $5400. Is $300 off too much to ask for?
No that's perfectly reasonable. Don't be afraid to walk away, when buying my golf I shot $1200 below sticker (it was a used price). Walked out, got a call 3 hours later and he sold it.
Yeah, walking away from a salesman scares the bejeezus out of them. Their powers from from always being the person in control. If they think they're in charge and you suddenly get up and start walking out, it's a real shot to the kidneys.
Anytime this comes up I post this: https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/confessions-of-a-car-salesman.html
It was a series from Edmunds, where one of their writers went undercover working at two different car lots over a six month period. He tells you all the tricks, and it's an amazingly useful read. I think the four-square is a thing of the past, with that fair credit law and all, but it's still great intel.
Now that was nothing short of fascinating. I feel like I just got a lesson in human psychology.
I wonder If I subtlety drop some of the secret vocab words during the discussion, how the dealer would react. I might just do it for the hell of it.
Its pretty much just as insane as I expected and now I don't feel as intimidated about their Casino-esque "we win, you lose" methodology. I feel like I have the other team's playbook.
In the end, the article re-confirmed what I already knew and that is that I could never be a salesman or businessman.
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thanks will start asking neighbors and such if they could recommend a fair mechanic
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If you trade a car into a dealership, do you have to bring the title with you?
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If you trade a car into a dealership, do you have to bring the title with you?
Yup.
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I got a new car. I feel so spoiled. :blush
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Anyone know anything about replacing the top on a 96 mustang convertible? lol
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When buying a car from a dealer (a used car in this case) how much can they typically wiggle on the price?
The sticker price on the car is $5700 and I would like to talk him down to like $5400. Is $300 off too much to ask for?
No that's perfectly reasonable. Don't be afraid to walk away, when buying my golf I shot $1200 below sticker (it was a used price). Walked out, got a call 3 hours later and he sold it.
Yeah, walking away from a salesman scares the bejeezus out of them. Their powers from from always being the person in control. If they think they're in charge and you suddenly get up and start walking out, it's a real shot to the kidneys.
Anytime this comes up I post this: https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/confessions-of-a-car-salesman.html
It was a series from Edmunds, where one of their writers went undercover working at two different car lots over a six month period. He tells you all the tricks, and it's an amazingly useful read. I think the four-square is a thing of the past, with that fair credit law and all, but it's still great intel.
I was thinking of this article a while back but didn't search for it. It really is a great read.
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I got a new car. I feel so spoiled. :blush
New new car or new to you?
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Well shit.. I wonder if they are going to continue the Rotary Engine.
It'll always exist as a niche market item. They're still well suited for racing where people can wind them up to 10k. I suspect a properly tuned racing Wankel would probably still have some power up there. The commercial versions certainly didn't. My experience was that the RX7 was a cool car with a needlessly weird engine. Given the wear and tear on the apex seals, and the need to redline them on a regular basis to burn off carbon deposits, they're just not well suited to Joe Blow.
Mazda will continue to produce them just because the RX8/RENESIS platform is reasonably stable and people like it. I suspect that if they were to suddenly put a standard piston engine in there, it'd lose it's uniqueness and be the end of the model.
Oops:
https://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/06/26/mazda-ends-production-rotary-engine/?intcmp=obinsite
The rotary engine is officially dead. For now.
Bloomberg reports that Mazda built the last of its unique powerplants last Friday, ending a 45-year run.
The automaker announced last year that it would be discontinuing the engine, citing high costs, low sales and environmental concerns. It got a stay of execution earlier this year when Mazda extended production if the RX-8 sports car with a run of 1,000 special edition Spirit-R models celebrating the engine.
Although it delivers a large amount of power from a compact, lightweight unit compared to a piston engine, the rotary design is notorious for its low fuel economy and high oil consumption, both factors making it difficult to meet today’s strict emissions standards.
Read: Is the handbrake grappling with extinction?
First introduced in the 1967 Cosmo Sport, Mazda produced nearly 2 million cars powered by rotary engines over the years, technology that it licensed from Audi in 1961. Its turbine-smooth operation prized by many enthusiasts.
The high water mark for the engine was victory in the 1991 running of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, still the only win by a Japanese automaker.
But just because the rotary is dead, doesn’t mean it can’t come back to life…with a jolt of electricity.
Mazda is continuing development of the engine design with an eye on possibly using it as a range-extender for plug-in hybrid vehicles, similar to the Chevrolet Volt. It has previously shown a prototype of such a car that uses a rotary converted to run on hydrogen to generate electricity.
Perhaps one day the company’s slogan will be changed to Humm Humm, Buzz Buzz, Zoom Zoom.
Using them to augment batteries is actually a pretty good idea. They're smaller, lighter, more reliable and smoother running than piston engines.
Also, they still have a place in most areas outside of consumer automobiles. They're good for racing and their reliability makes them well suited for aircraft engines. I believe they're also used in boats and motorcycles.
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I'd like to drive something with a rotary someday. I can't even comprehend revving an engine to 9k+
Anyone know anything about replacing the top on a 96 mustang convertible? lol
No idea, but I'm sure if you browse through some Mustang forums you'd find something. you might even find a youtube tutorial or something. Stuff like this is why I'm so glad I had internet by the time I was old enough to own a car.
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I got a new car. I feel so spoiled. :blush
New new car or new to you?
Both. I'm going to end up paying for most of it, but I still know I'm really lucky. It's a Subaru Impreza hatchback.
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I'd like to drive something with a rotary someday. I can't even comprehend revving an engine to 9k+
It honestly doesn't really seem any different than any other car. Plus, the power band is such that up around the redline you really don't get any power out of it. It's more for being able to hit the next gear at a higher RPM.
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oh, i thought it would be... cooler than that.
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I run my BMW up to the redline all the time. When I owned an RX7 I very rarely hit red. For one thing the power had started to drop off well before it, and also, it's kind of ingrained in us to shift when it gets whining that high. I knew the car could do it just fine, but it's still a pretty unnatural thing to let happen.
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Yeah i had the opposite problem when I was driving a Renault diesel and I'd rev it much higher than i needed to. It's kinda cool on the freeway though, as I didn't need to change down to pass anyone cause there was plenty of power around 1.5k-2k
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I run my BMW up to the redline all the time. When I owned an RX7 I very rarely hit red. For one thing the power had started to drop off well before it, and also, it's kind of ingrained in us to shift when it gets whining that high. I knew the car could do it just fine, but it's still a pretty unnatural thing to let happen.
Similar effect when I started riding my motorcycle. Redline is 14k and it sounded like it was going to blow up at 8k. Took me a while to get used to the whine, but was glad when I did since 8k is when the power really kicks in. :yarr
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My friend pulled on my door handle while I was unlocking the car and now the door won't open from the outside. I know it's something to do with the linkage or something, though I have no idea what a door interior looks like. I called a local shop (apparently one that doesn't have the greatest reputation) and asked them how much to pop off the door panels. He said "Six ninety five."
"Six... dollars?"
"No, six hundred."
I laughed my way off the phone. Surely that's not a good price for something that trivial?
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Keep calling other places. Find somebody that specializes in your brand of car, and they should charge you an hour of labor. My only guess about the guy you called was that he just didn't want to dick with it. That's a scare somebody away quote, since there's no way he was expecting it to take 8 hours.
I called a shop (with an excellent reputation) a while back because my alternator had given out two blocks from their locale. I asked how much to replace the alternator if I got my car up there and he said "aw shit, I dunno!" He proceeded to explain how he'd need three hours to diagnose my electrical problem, before he could tell me how much it'd be. "But I'm already telling you it's my alternator! Can you just find out what that'd cost?" "Nope. Three hours." Yeah, great, fuck you very much.
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A database (by Car Talk listeners) of local mechanics that they recommend): https://www.cartalk.com/content/mechanics-files (https://www.cartalk.com/content/mechanics-files)
As for me, I have to replace my front hub assemblies, and since I don't have the tools necessary, i'll have to take it to a shop (I called around and was getting quotes anywhere from $500 to $750) :|
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So I just bought a car today. Its a 98 Toyota corolla to replace my 92 Camaro.
My question is about keeping the Camaro insured. A for sale sign is going on it tomorrow and I will no longer be driving it, but do I still need to keep it insured to do test drives?
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Yes. You generally want liability on anything you own that's going to be exposed to the public. As for collision/theft, ect., I'd ask my insurance provider about that one. They might say hell yeah, and they might tell you they won't cover it anyway, so don't bother.
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Thanks, that's pretty much what I was thinking as well. hopefully I can sell this thing in the next month or two.
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Ok so I have a question about selling a car privately.
1. When someone comes to test drive the car should I check and see if they have car insurance or are they covered under my plan.
and
2. What is the best way for them to pay. Can I take a check or should I ask for cash?
Any other tips and suggestions would be very appreciated as well.
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Ok so I have a question about selling a car privately.
1. When someone comes to test drive the car should I check and see if they have car insurance or are they covered under my plan.
and
2. What is the best way for them to pay. Can I take a check or should I ask for cash?
Any other tips and suggestions would be very appreciated as well.
1. I think that depends on each policy separately.
2. Always accept cash. Just make sure it's real.
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Cash or cashier's check. I've always used the latter when I bought cars. As for insurance, ask your insurance agent. They're the only ones who can give you sound advice.
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Thanks guys.
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This should be the "Ask El Barto Thread"
Anyway... I've got a grinding noise from my front driver's side wheel when I turn right. The following have been suggested to me:
1. Bearing
2. Hub
3. CV joint
How much are all of those as far as parts and labor?
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This should be the "Ask El Barto Thread"
Anyway... I've got a grinding noise from my front driver's side wheel when I turn right. The following have been suggested to me:
1. Bearing
2. Hub
3. CV joint
How much are all of those as far as parts and labor?
I had that happen on a car I used to have. It was the CV joint, but had to replace the whole axle. That cost about $100, but me and a few guys worked on it ourselves. It took a few hours (didn't have the right tools), but we were able to replace it.
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So if I had a mechanic replace the axle, I'd be looking at the neighborhood of two to three hundred ish?
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This should be the "Ask El Barto Thread"
This
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So if I had a mechanic replace the axle, I'd be looking at the neighborhood of two to three hundred ish?
It might be more like 300 to 400 hundred, but it shouldn't be a terribly expensive repair. The total cost will depend on how hard it is rto remove and replace the axle on your car. Mine was on a cavalier and fairly easy.
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This should be the "Ask El Barto Thread"
Anyway... I've got a grinding noise from my front driver's side wheel when I turn right. The following have been suggested to me:
1. Bearing
2. Hub
3. CV joint
How much are all of those as far as parts and labor?
I've never actually had a car with a CV joint, so I have zero experience with them. However brakes and wheel bearings aren't bad at all. I replaced the front brakes in my car last weekend. The big question is, does the grinding happen when you're braking or all the time? What I can tell you is that wheel bearings don't generally grind, they whine, and it's usually constant. If it's a brake disk, it'll only grind when you're braking and you'll actually feel it in the pedal.
If it's just the brakes, I recommend learning to do it yourself. Brake jobs are one of the few things I actually enjoy doing. It's all mechanical and while it does require some muscle work, it's pretty rewarding. It's also nice to know that it was done right, what with them being your brakes and all. You'll have to replace the disks, which will run you about $35 each, and install new pads which are $40-$80 a set, depending on quality. If it's your first time changing brakes, expect to spend 2 hours on the first wheel, and about 30 minutes on the second (it's all learning time).
If it's your wheel bearings, you'll have to remove all the brake components to get the old ones off. Therefore, unless the brakes are fairly new, you'd generally replace them as well. Same cost as above, plus add 30 minutes per wheel for the bearings.
If you take it to a mechanic, he'll probably charge 2 hours labor for the brake job, plus the aforementioned parts. Probably another .5 to 1 hour for the bearings, depending on whether they're pre-packed or not. Sounds to me like a three to five hundred dollar job.
What I'd recommend is jacking up one corner at a time for a quick inspection. If you know what's wrong, then you can get better info from a mechanic without just taking his word on it. Jack it up, CHOCK THE REAL WHEELS, put it in N and spin the wheel. Does it make any noise? Does it spin smoothly? Then take the wheel off. You'll be able to see the brake disk. Is it smooth and shiny or scarred and pitted? You'll have to feel around for the backside of the disks. Brakes wear unevenly, so only one side of one disk will be chewed up, so you'll need to inspect all four to find one that's bad.
Here's what you're looking for. The inside is normal wear and tear and probably wouldn't be causing any problems, and the outer 1 inch or so is scarred all to hell. That's what was grinding. https://www.transmissionrepairirving.com/images/worn_rotor.jpg
As for the CV, if that's what it is, get it fixed now. The only thing I know is that a CV joint failure is really bad news.
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I absolutely love Tesla and everything it is trying to do!
https://money.cnn.com/news/newsfeeds/gigaom/articles/cleantech_tesla_unveils_free_solar_powered_car_charging_stations_for_model_s_owners.html?iid=HP_River
Electric car maker Tesla announced on Monday night that it has installed its “Supercharger” rapid car charging network at an initial six locations throughout California and Tesla says charging at these stations will be free “indefinitely” for Model S owners. Tesla says the Superchargers will be powered by solar technology, developed by solar installer SolarCity
Musk called the Supercharger “the answer to the three major problems holding back electric vehicles” in his remarks during the event. These problems are being able to drive electric vehicles long distances conveniently, the issue of electricity being generated at a distant fossil fuel power plant, and the issue of cost of electricity.
The Superchargers can charge the Model S cars with 100 kilowatts of power and provide three hours of driving at 60 mph in about half an hour. Who wants to take me on a Model S road trip down to LA?
That is pretty damn impressive if you ask me.
The Tesla Model S is such a nice looking vehicle.
(https://addins.waow.com/blogs/weather/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Tesla-Model-S.jpg)
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I work right across the freeway from where they're building those cars. My company also supplies PV Inverters to SolarCity (though our inverters probably won't be used for this project).
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Check engine light just came on, guy at the auto store said the code is for a bad crankshaft sensor. The car seems to run fine at the moment. Will I be okay driving it a week or so until I can get it replaced?
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Check engine light just came on, guy at the auto store said the code is for a bad crankshaft sensor. The car seems to run fine at the moment. Will I be okay driving it a week or so until I can get it replaced?
If all it is is a sensor, you'll be fine.
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Check engine light just came on, guy at the auto store said the code is for a bad crankshaft sensor. The car seems to run fine at the moment. Will I be okay driving it a week or so until I can get it replaced?
If all it is is a sensor, you'll be fine.
What's the likelihood of that, considering nothing sounds 'funny' or 'out of place?' Good?
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Check engine light just came on, guy at the auto store said the code is for a bad crankshaft sensor. The car seems to run fine at the moment. Will I be okay driving it a week or so until I can get it replaced?
If all it is is a sensor, you'll be fine.
What's the likelihood of that, considering nothing sounds 'funny' or 'out of place?' Good?
Search your make and model plus your problem. You'll probably find car forums with a board dedicated to it, you're not going to get a good answer here on the likelihood of a meaningless check engine light. My car has a common problem with a faulty check engine light that goes with one other faulty light turning on, all I need to do is reset the computer module and it goes away. It pops up every year or two, but if you don't read about common problems of your car you can spend lots of money chasing phantoms like that.
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Check engine light just came on, guy at the auto store said the code is for a bad crankshaft sensor. The car seems to run fine at the moment. Will I be okay driving it a week or so until I can get it replaced?
If all it is is a sensor, you'll be fine.
What's the likelihood of that, considering nothing sounds 'funny' or 'out of place?' Good?
The crankshaft position sensor tells the computer that runs your engine how fast the motor's turning and what the position of the valves is. With a faulty sensor the ECU gets bad info, and the engine doesn't run as well as it should. If it's bad, and I have no reason to doubt the guy who pulled the code, then your car probably got a slight misfire, and might be hesitating under acceleration. Both of which you might not notice if you're not looking for them. Oh, and you'll probably notice a decrease in your mileage. Regardless, get it fixed when you can, but don't panic over it. Just don't turn out in front of somebody expecting to floor it and accelerate out of their way.
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The sensor's 30 bucks. What's the labor cost on that kind of thing? If it makes a difference, the engine is the GM 3800 Series II in a 98 Park Avenue.
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Not sure. My guess is that in replacing that, they're going to expose a couple of other things that people like to replace at common intervals. In my car, you don't replace the timing belt without also replacing the water pump (and vice versa) for example. My guess is that the CPS is in the same area, so they might want to replace the water pump (cheap), and if your car has a timing belt, that as well. My guess is two hours labor, but that really is just a guess.
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My father is the president of a mustang/ford club in central PA. (He owns the Grabber Orange mustang in the 2nd and 3rd pics.)
Here are some pics from cruises recently:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/558508_10151159994803544_1090614507_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/292951_10151159994558544_2146339054_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/558318_10151166872923544_1425767929_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/576936_10151166868088544_1098504463_n.jpg)
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Here goes....
2003 Ford Windstar 115,000 miles
When I start the car it turns over fine, but when I shift into reverse it sounds like I have a big diesel engine. The noise continues after shifting into drive , but once the car gets moving 20 mph or more, sound stops . I have noticed a loss of acceleration when going uphill or trying to pass on the highway. Every car forums seems to point at the transmission as going (and this particular model has a history of transmission failure at about 120,000 miles. I don't have a rainy day fund for repairs and a transmission job will likely run ($1200-$2000 my guestimate) the car only has a bluebook value listed as $3300 to $3700 according to Kelleys.
Can anyone else (barto) think of something it might be other than the tranny?
Only asking this again as my experience in the past I've had mechanics actually cease my car (NJ law) if they determine the car is unsafe to drive....so its not as easy as taking it to multiple mechanics for their opinions
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Reminds me of the tire salesman telling Homer that he couldn't legally allow him to drive away without 4 new tires. :lol
I believe we've already covered your transmission. The noise is just a noise. Yes, your transmission is probably failing, but there's nothing you can do about it and it still drives. As for the loss of power, two possibilities. It could be unrelated to the tranny. Tons of things will cause a power loss under load. Other option is that the tranny has gone into limp mode. When the computer detects an issue, it goes into a failsafe mode (limping home). This usually locks it into 3rd or 4th gear. Stuck in 4th, you'll have awful acceleration.
As for finance, my suggestion would be to drive it until it explodes all over the interstate, then buy another car. If you need a stop-gap option because it fails before you can upgrade, you can always by a junkyard transmission for about $500. The cost for tranny jobs is almost entirely the insane cost of rebuilding an old unit. Better to just buy one that didn't fail in the first place. It's a crapshoot since you have no idea what condition it is, but it'll be guaranteed to work at first. Usually they'll be fine. They'll come from a car that was rear-ended, or better still, totaled because of hail damage or something. They'll also have less than 75k on them. Likelihood is that you'll get more years out of it than the rest of your car.
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Droooooooooooooooooooooooooool.
https://www.lsxtv.com/news/video-modern-sting-ray-brings-performance-and-classic-styling/
(https://speednik.com/files/2012/11/modern_sting_ray_video_4.jpg)
Also......
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FoXyvaPSnVk/Su8uTbgPrwI/AAAAAAACNW0/Sw_XfKpFjdo/s800/Lingenfelter-Pontiac-455-TA-001..jpg)
(https://cdn.speednik.com/files/2012/07/trans_am_depot_documentary_4.jpg)
(https://media.soletron.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Goat6T9-e1310700719521.jpg)
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If I had the cash, I would buy that Smokey in the Bandit modded Camaro in a heartbeat.
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The stingray is pretty nice but the rest is meh.
Damn I wish I made it to the auto show this past weekend :(
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I drive a 98 Park Avenue and the A/C is like a home thermostat. I pick a temperature and it blows hot or cold air until said temperature is reached. Anyone know if I can change this and just choose to blow warm or cold air until I feel like it? I'd rather not set it at 90 and let it go to town.
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I drive a 98 Park Avenue and the A/C is like a home thermostat. I pick a temperature and it blows hot or cold air until said temperature is reached. Anyone know if I can change this and just choose to blow warm or cold air until I feel like it? I'd rather not set it at 90 and let it go to town.
Most cars have a button that says 'auto'. If you have that, turn it off.
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Shown to the public a few days ago at an auto-show.
MINI John Cooper Works Countryman ALL4 Dakar Winner Edition
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/421855_10151333243803511_1292673893_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/529765_10151333246728511_833948520_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/577895_10151333244783511_1538042864_n.jpg)
I want this NOW. The flat finish is pure sex.
The new John Copper Works Paceman is pretty awesome too.
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/184407_10151227071993511_662663152_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/431251_10151227072593511_928306543_n.jpg)
The John Cooper Works GP edition hardtop is also pretty cool.
(https://media.caranddriver.com/images/12q2/450432/2013-mini-john-cooper-works-gp-hatchback-photos-and-info-news-car-and-driver-photo-455732-s-429x262.jpg)
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I have a question about car insurance. And bear with me, because I've always just kind of payed it without really thinking about all the logistics.
I'm 25 and have never had an accident. I drive a 98 4-cylinder Toyota corolla and my monthly insurance bill is $86.
Does that sound about right or is this higher then normal. What do you guys typically pay a month?
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I drive a fully insured 2001 VW golf, I'm 26 and I only $67 a month. Fairly cheap insurance, my motorcycle insurance is much more.
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I drive a fully insured 2001 VW golf, I'm 26 and I only $67 a month. Fairly cheap insurance, my motorcycle insurance is much more.
I'm actually glad you brought that up. How much is the insurance on the R6?
The quote I got for the SV650 was like $14 bucks a month so I was curious how much higher a super sport would be.
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I'm 24 driving a fully covered 2013 Mini Cooper (non-turbo). I had a reckless driving charge of 122mph when I was 18, and received a failure to obey a sign at 21. I had my first accident last September and my car was totaled. It wasn't my fault though. I was parked at the bottom of an off-ramp and a guy's brakes failed on his pickup truck. I pay $118ish a month with a $1000 deductible.
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It varies a lot by location. Living in a big city could easily add that $20/month. Off the top of my head, if that $86 is for a good policy with collision and a perk or two, that's about right. If it's just for the minimum required liability, you're getting hosed.
Something I recommend to everybody, find an agent you like, and who likes you. Insurance reps are one of those deals where a lifelong relationship is a damn fine thing. When I was 23, driving a sports car and racking up tickets weekly, most insurance agents would laugh at me. One guy recognized that I had 50 years of driving ahead of me and wanted to earn some loyalty, which he did in spades. I was heartbroken when he finally retired a few years ago. He'd go out of his way to look for discounts for me.
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I'm 21 and pay like $60/month for I'm pretty sure minimum on a 88 Olds Cutlass Ciera... I have 1 total which came out to no fault (if that's what it's called? They couldn't determine who as at fault)
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@ Barto.....I have a clean driving record for 25+ years and still pay $96 a month for the bare minimum state requirement here in NJ ( No Collision/No theft..just liability) Just had to add my 18 year old son and my annual premium jumped to $2800 for just the bare minimum..In NJ he has multiple things against him ( he's male...females are given a cheaper rate as the are deemed not as agressive and his age, he will be considered an at rick drive until he reaches 25 here in NJ) Just think in another 18 months I get to add another son to my policy.
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I drive a fully insured 2001 VW golf, I'm 26 and I only $67 a month. Fairly cheap insurance, my motorcycle insurance is much more.
I'm actually glad you brought that up. How much is the insurance on the R6?
The quote I got for the SV650 was like $14 bucks a month so I was curious how much higher a super sport would be.
Full coverage (including $500,000 medical coverage) with $500 deductible on my 08 R6 is $124 a month. Not bad but again I'm 26 years old so I'm past the 25 mark, when I was younger and riding I was paying closer to $170 on my 94 CBR 600
So it's not crazy much but the medical coverage really kicks it up a notch. I don't want to be forever in debt if anything happens tho.
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Mitsubishi Evo I got myself for Christmas already has 22,000 miles on it, I'm probably going to get rid of it this month or next. It's a very fun car and is a lot of fun on dirt roads. I still think the Mitsubishi Evo 5 I owned when living in Japan was more fun to drive though. Plus it had the steeringwheel on the proper side. The RIGHT side! :laugh: I think out of all the cars I've ever owned, my favorite is the Porsche 914/6 my uncle gave to me when I was 21. It's been in the family since new back in 1970. I just remember vaguely being about 4-5 years old and my uncle taking me for rides and cornering hard as he would try to brace me from sliding around in the seat with one hand and attempting to steer with the other, then quickly shifting. I'll never sell this thing.
The worst car I've ever owned was an old Rover 100 P4. What was great about it is you had to break about ten minutes in advance if you wanted to stop. Same with steering. If there was a turn coming up in about a half a mile, you had to start crankin the wheel a few dozen revolutions.
Porsche 914/6:
(https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w265/llamabearduck/89058ee1c26eb42d4adbe7353e38a462_zpsceb1798f.jpg)
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I got to finally test out my roof rack today :metal
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/941227_10152800083625111_1906051423_n.jpg)
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I can row a boat, canoe? :P
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Sweet! Can it hold only one kayak?
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It will hold two if you get the kayak mounts. They'd sit on their sides and lay bottom-to-bottom.
(https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/orsracksdirect/2009-chevrolet-hhr-ss-kayak-rack.jpg)
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Sweet!
I need to get a paddle board mount for my car, then again I need to fix my car, sell it and get a new one. Now that the busy season is over I'll hopefully have time to do that.
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okay more issues with my piece of junk
Had a full tune up done in Feb 2013 ( wires/coil pack/plugs etc....) car ran fine until a month ago...car started misfiring and check engine light came on...took it back and the coil pack was faulty...they replaced it since it was still under warranty....in the last 3 weeks they have had to replace the coil pack 2 more times
getting the following error codes p1246....altenator?
p0302/p0306/p0316 all related to misfires
could the altenator be causing an overload on the coil pack and causing it to continously fail?
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This is strictly a guess, but I'm going to say no. The coil packs don't get their juice straight from the alternator. Something buffers it, and more importantly controls the timing. Probably the ECU controls the packs and dictates when they get power.
What I would suggest is that you have the alternator tested (elsewhere) and find out what's going on with it. Coil packs cause misfires. Faulty alternators/VRs cause you to break down on the side of I95. If it's bad, have it rebuilt or replaced. Most garages won't rebuild them, but you can find plenty of people who will do the job and it'll often save a few bucks.
As for the coil packs, if they're under warranty, let the guys who sold/installed them worry about it. They have more of an interest in solving the problem than you do. Maybe they got in a bad lot. If it's one cylinder that keeps failing, that's pretty intriguing and should offer a competent mechanic something to investigate. I'd have them check (or better still replace) the wire.
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p0302 and p0306 say its the second and sixth cylinder...since the coil pack configures to 2 cylinders 1-5,3-4,2-6 its defineatly occuring in the second and sixth cylinders ...they have already checked both cylinders as throughly as they are competent to do so and found nothing
I got into a heated exchange with the Service manager last time (Pep Boys) and told him, he shouldn't call his employees mechanics but rather techs..since all they seem to be able to do is pull a code. Told him REAL mechanics don't exist anymore, before cars became computerized a real mechanic could test drive or hell even listen to a noise and pin-point the problem, these guys seem to be clueless
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My father is the president of a mustang/ford club in central PA. (He owns the Grabber Orange mustang in the 2nd and 3rd pics.)
Here are some pics from cruises recently:
Very cool!! I love cruises, I have a 2003 Mustang Cobra. That's a nice Grabber Orange! Do you have one as well? ;D Was blasting DT12 on the way to work this morning! :metal
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I got into a heated exchange with the Service manager last time (Pep Boys) and told him, he shouldn't call his employees mechanics but rather techs..since all they seem to be able to do is pull a code. Told him REAL mechanics don't exist anymore, before cars became computerized a real mechanic could test drive or hell even listen to a noise and pin-point the problem, these guys seem to be clueless
Interesting choice of terminology. In BMW world, all the service folk I deal with are considered techs, and they tend to be the most qualified mechanics you'll ever come across. I used to have my work done by a guy who was absolutely Godlike in his mechanical abilities, and he considered himself a BMW tech. I think from their perspective it just sounds a lot cooler to be a tech than a mechanic; probably easier to get laid.
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My defrost is not working and the autoshop is (perhaps bogusly) tracing it back to radiator and water pump... which they want 1800 to fix.
Not sure it's gonna happen.
I drive a '04 Lincoln LS with 92k that always seems to need expensive repairs, even though it runs perfectly fine. Thinking of just getting a toyota or something jsut for the better mileage.
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Just hoping to get this thing to last until spring (Annual Bonus) than looking into a smaller SUV/JEEP
Kids are older, one is driving and the second will be soon (permit) so no need for the minivan anymore
Any suggestions?
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Saw this last night at the Thursday night cruise in... always loved these.
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1381501_643706935660518_1186423763_n.jpg)
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Gorgeous, apparently a pain to own, especially the first lot that came off production. Many issues.
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Well, I don't have kids or a mortage. Hmm... Think I'll trade my gas gusling lincoln in toward a compact hybrid that gets 40-50 MPG.
Anyone have any experience with these compact hybrids, like Honda Insight or Toyota Prius c?
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I don't have much experience personally with them. My dad did drive a prius for a long time, he went through two of them before getting his lexus hybrid.
The one thing that really sucked was driving on the highway, the road noise was nuts, even in the newer models they were pretty bad. Really they are best as city cars.
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My car's in the shop, getting a new radiator and heater coil. That's not going to be cheap :|
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I suspect you mean heater core, and those things really suck terribly. I suspect mechanics double the price just because they're such a PITA to do.
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Well, I don't have kids or a mortage. Hmm... Think I'll trade my gas gusling lincoln in toward a compact hybrid that gets 40-50 MPG.
Anyone have any experience with these compact hybrids, like Honda Insight or Toyota Prius c?
Huge fan of the Prius. I've had one as a rental for 21 days. I loved it. It's no sports car, but for someone who commutes 80-100 miles a day, it was fantastic.
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Wound up getting a Civic. Was going to go for the Prius or Insight, but the hybrid prices seem pretty set in stone around here. I had an easier time negotiating with the other cars. Civic's still nice. Great fuel economy still, too.
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Dear my car,
This is strike two.
After getting it back thursday for the earlier mentioned expensive repair, the clutch decides to fail today on my was home from a friends house >:(
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Dear my car,
This is strike two.
After getting it back thursday for the earlier mentioned expensive repair, the clutch decides to fail today on my was home from a friends house >:(
Clutches don't just fail all of a sudden. They almost always go gradually. Clutch cylinders fail suddenly, but they're not all that expensive. Your pedal go all the way to the floor with no resistance?
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It's been making a bit of noise recently... with hindsight I believe that was it failing. Today I was driving and I started hearing rattling like there was something loose. I was hoping to make it home but then I was going up a hill and it got to be too much and I stopped.
I hope it's a clutch. If it's something else I'll be in the market for a car since a transmission rebuild is not something I want to have to deal with, especially a week before I move.
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How many miles are on it (the clutch, not the car)?
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I got the car with 129k (I think) and it now has 155k. I don't know if it's been replaced before, but with my last standard the clutch went around this time (in the more traditional pedal to the floor but cant shift way).
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If that's the original clutch, you've definitely gotten your money's worth. I normally expect 100-120k out of a clutch. Seems a little young to have a second one fail, unless you're driving a Ford Focus or something.
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An update since I've been posting about my car.
It wasn't the clutch. It was the transmission. No words at this point, still in shock :|
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Don't know if they gave you a quote or not, but standard transmissions usually aren't that expensive to deal with; certainly nothing like automatics. I know I had to replace them on both a Toyota and a Mazda and in both cases they ran about the same as a clutch job. Another consideration, depending on how you feel about the car, is putting a used on one on there. If you're not looking at keeping the car for the long haul, then it's a perfectly viable thing to do.
You never mentioned what kind of car it is, but you might check eBay and see what a used tranny is running for your car.
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It's an 01 Saturn SL2. I'm looking into what my options are. The shop is calling around trying to find a used transmission. When they find one they'll be able to give me an estimate. This is just the worst possible time for this to happen, on the heels of another large repair and three days before I make a pretty big move >:(
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eBay is full of those things. Seem to run about $350-400 shipped. And, though it's hard to find out, labor time looks like it might be quite a bit less than the clutch job (unless you opt to have both jobs done).
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I'm going to have it repaired. $400 is about right. And since it's all apart (and old clutch is old) he's going to replace that as well. Might as well have both done when it's all in pieces now than have to tear it apart again in the future.
Also, no wonder the labor is so expensive for this car... there were parts all over that had to be taken out to get to the clutch.
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Yeah, clutch jobs are notoriously expensive. A rebuild kit only runs you a couple of bills, but you're inevitably looking at 6-8 hours to replace the silly thing. In your case, I'm surprised that there's so much overlap in labor. A transmission swap shouldn't take anywhere near as long as a clutch job. I would agree that there's enough overlap that it'd be best to do both, but I'd guess that you're looking at 4 vs 8 hours or so.
BTW, if you've never driven a car with a brand spanking new clutch, it'll really blow your mind. :lol
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BTW, if you've never driven a car with a brand spanking new clutch, it'll really blow your mind. :lol
It's nice but there is a learning curve. A new clutch always takes some getting used to :lol
The transmission had to come out to get to the clutch. Which is kind of nice, since now the labor doesn't go up really any. All they have to do extra is put the new one on the stand.
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Koenigsegg new Agera R showing off it's new stability control system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SywqgH7n-5g
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Koenigsegg new Agera R showing off it's new stability control system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SywqgH7n-5g
I guess that's neat, but all he's really doing is demonstrating that the car won't let you oversteer. I would have liked to see him hold one of those swerves, as if he were actually trying to dodge something in the road. I do recognize that the ESC can only be a benefit in that situation, but I'd still like to see how it plays out.
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Koenigsegg new Agera R showing off it's new stability control system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SywqgH7n-5g
I guess that's neat, but all he's really doing is demonstrating that the car won't let you oversteer. I would have liked to see him hold one of those swerves, as if he were actually trying to dodge something in the road. I do recognize that the ESC can only be a benefit in that situation, but I'd still like to see how it plays out.
Yea I guess this was more for show and proof that it won't oversteer. Besides I don't think you wanna risk flippin a Koenigsegg right in front of the press although that would have been entertaining. :lol
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Musk's next target for Tesla: Its own 'F150' pickup
(https://i2.cdn.turner.com/money/dam/assets/131112190602-tesla-f150-620xa.jpg)
" "If you're trying to replace the most gasoline miles driven, you have to look at what people are buying," he said after an appearance at a Business Insider conference. "That's the best selling car in America. If people are voting that's their car, then that's the car we have to deliver."
Musk cautioned it's probably five years before Tesla will offer a pickup.
Ford sold 560,000 of the F series pickups in the United States through the first nine months of this year -- a period when Tesla sold just 14,000 of the Model S.
https://money.cnn.com/2013/11/12/autos/musk-tesla-f150-pickup/index.html?iid=Lead
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It'll never fly. The people who buy F series trucks want no part of anything green. Plenty of them drive these things specifically to thumb their noses at anybody who would drive a hybrid/electric car. The only hope Tesla has is that they actually build something rugged enough to interest the contractors and ranchers who buy these things for their actual intended purpose. The high torque provided by electric motors would actually offer them an advantage, but there's still more to it than that.
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It'll never fly. The people who buy F series trucks want no part of anything green. Plenty of them drive these things specifically to thumb their noses at anybody who would drive a hybrid/electric car. The only hope Tesla has is that they actually build something rugged enough to interest the contractors and ranchers who buy these things for their actual intended purpose. The high torque provided by electric motors would actually offer them an advantage, but there's still more to it than that.
I agree, if we're talking about stupid rednecks. However, I am sure you could win over the construction market if you could suddenly save contractors $1000+ a week in fuel costs (on top of government incentives). And I disagree about the torque. I think that would actually be one of the few things that could actually change peoples' minds. Also, hunters might be interested in a vehicle that doesn't scare the shit out of all wooded wildlife within a mile radius. I say to myself all the time "I wish I could own a truck that gets 30+mpg".
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I said torque would actually be an advantage with the electric trucks. I just meant that there's a lot more to it than that. If you're going to use all of that torque you need to construct a vehicle that's incredibly rugged.
edit: Oh, and I'm not so sure about hunters. They have a tendency to drive way the hell out into the boonies, and I don't think people have all that much confidence driving a car with limited range that far out into the Styx. It'd certainly make me nervous.
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BMW i8 "test vehicle" at my work. I usually don't go for the supercarish look but I think this thing is beautiful
(https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1465103_10151985142463427_1927007084_n.jpg)
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I've been driving a Civic EX for about 14 years now. Seriously thinking about a new 2014 Camaro SS. Tired of rice burners, although I'm also considering a 2014 Nissan 370Z. However, not as many options as the Camaro. We shall see.
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I've been driving a Civic EX for about 14 years now. Seriously thinking about a new 2014 Camaro SS. Tired of rice burners, although I'm also considering a 2014 Nissan 370Z. However, not as many options as the Camaro. We shall see.
Nah, keep burning rice (or better still kraut). Japanese sports cars are reasonably fast, reasonably agile and reasonably dependable. American muscle cars move up to stupidly fast at the expense of handling and reliability. Great for showing off at stoplights, but not much good for anything else (unless you're a dealership).
For the record, I wont discount the classic and now retro styling. Some of the throwback cars look really cool, and the new Camaros aren't bad. Americans muscle cars are just antithetical to everything I want in a car.
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I've been driving a Civic EX for about 14 years now. Seriously thinking about a new 2014 Camaro SS. Tired of rice burners, although I'm also considering a 2014 Nissan 370Z. However, not as many options as the Camaro. We shall see.
For what a Camaro SS costs, I'd prefer to get the Mini Cooper John Cooper Works hardtop. I'm assuming you wouldn't be using the back seats anyway.
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I've been driving a Civic EX for about 14 years now. Seriously thinking about a new 2014 Camaro SS. Tired of rice burners, although I'm also considering a 2014 Nissan 370Z. However, not as many options as the Camaro. We shall see.
For what a Camaro SS costs, I'd prefer to get the Mini Cooper John Cooper Works hardtop. I'm assuming you wouldn't be using the back seats anyway.
I've been driving a Civic EX for about 14 years now. Seriously thinking about a new 2014 Camaro SS. Tired of rice burners, although I'm also considering a 2014 Nissan 370Z. However, not as many options as the Camaro. We shall see.
Have you driven a 370z compared to a 350z? I'm curious because in high school I drove around in my dads 350 a few months while he was overseas. It was an awesome car but now that I'm 9 years older (good lord) the 350 and 370 didn't age well for me.
I've been driving a Civic EX for about 14 years now. Seriously thinking about a new 2014 Camaro SS. Tired of rice burners, although I'm also considering a 2014 Nissan 370Z. However, not as many options as the Camaro. We shall see.
For what a Camaro SS costs, I'd prefer to get the Mini Cooper John Cooper Works hardtop. I'm assuming you wouldn't be using the back seats anyway.
My buddy has a full loaded john works clubman, it's pretty nice :tup Lots of neat features.
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Just began the prime of her life today:
(https://i.imgur.com/oohv8Zb.jpg)
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Both of my 3's made it to about 220k before they became cost prohibitive to keep on the road.
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Street legal New Beetle w/ a jet engine.
https://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/
(https://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/images/VW_Rear_Pa1_PScopy.jpg)
(https://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/images/AB12_15_05copy.jpg)
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Both of my 3's made it to about 220k before they became cost prohibitive to keep on the road.
Damn I'm jealous. My Mini is getting on a flatbed for the second time tomorrow. Piece of shit. I'm dumping that car the day my warranty is up and I don't see myself sticking with the brand.
(taken from my post at a mini forum)
The vehicle is a 2013 Justa with 29,300 miles on it. I've had its oil changed on schedule, and the water pump died and was replaced under warranty at 22,000 miles.
Mini Noise - YouTube (https://"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9M5lDZpWQ2w")
Any insight would be much appreciated :)
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Both of my 3's made it to about 220k before they became cost prohibitive to keep on the road.
Damn I'm jealous. My Mini is getting on a flatbed for the second time tomorrow. Piece of shit. I'm dumping that car the day my warranty is up and I don't see myself sticking with the brand.
(taken from my post at a mini forum)
The vehicle is a 2013 Justa with 29,300 miles on it. I've had its oil changed on schedule, and the water pump died and was replaced under warranty at 22,000 miles.
Mini Noise - YouTube (https://"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9M5lDZpWQ2w")
Any insight would be much appreciated :)
My buddy owns a 2014 countryman (which was rated by one automotive group as one of the most unreliable cars out there) and it has been back to the dealership 3 times already. It doesn't even have 10k. Tis a shame because the car is nice overall.
In other news I discovered my bmw has a small oil leak from the bolt, no biggie but it left a little mess underneath the car.
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Can't help you Chino, but Mini's are the least reliable cars accoorrding to Consumer Reports. Next on the list is Lincoln - I drove one of those for awhile, but it became way to much to maintain around 80k, as it needed frequent costly repairs, and given the parts and level of maintenance skill needed to repair the Lincoln, even cheapo repairs could wind up being expensive. I'd imagine BMW is kind of the same.
The difference is, driving Lincoln and BMW is a lot of fun usually, while driving a Mini is... I dunno, you tell me?
I'm much happier in a Honda Civic these days. Accelerating isn't as fun as it used to be, but I'm saving almost half of my payment in what I used to pay for gas. I also expect it to hold up better overall.
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The Minis used to be halfway reliable. I know there are plenty of owners that love theirs. I think the unreliability thing is a more recent phenomenon. Shame, because the S models are supposed to be a hoot to drive. Sadly, BMW isn't really focusing much on fun anymore. Each new generation seems to become more sterile than the last.
Can't help you Chino, but Mini's are the least reliable cars accoorrding to Consumer Reports. Next on the list is Lincoln - I drove one of those for awhile, but it became way to much to maintain around 80k, as it needed frequent costly repairs, and given the parts and level of maintenance skill needed to repair the Lincoln, even cheapo repairs could wind up being expensive. I'd imagine BMW is kind of the same.
BMW's can be expensive to repair, but they're built incredibly well so the repairs are infrequent.
Reaper: don't you own some hot-ass M3 or something? I'd find out where exactly that leak is coming from. If it's a headbolt, you've got problems. If it's the valve cover or rear seal it's likely cheap enough to be better off fixed. No point in dealing with the hassle, especially given what oil costs nowadays.
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The Mini is hands down one of the most fun vehicles I've ever driven. Even though it lacks the horsepower, you can rip through town and back roads in ways that no other cars can. I love driving a Mini, I hate owning it. I agree with EB. The BMW lines are becoming more about the luxury than the the driving experience. However, my mom has an 2013 3 series coupe that is terrifying to drive. It begs for more throttle no matter how fast you're going around a turn.
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It begs for more throttle no matter how fast you're going around a turn.
That's been a hallmark of the 3 series since they invented the thing. It's what sold me on my for 325IS back in the 90's. Guy that sold it to me took me for a drive that pretty much hooked me. The terrifying aspect is a different story. While they continue to get faster, they also remove a lot of the funness of them by taking away control. You can't find sticks anymore, and while I understand the benefit of a modern SMG, without a clutch it's just not the same. Furthermore, traction and stability control also make it harder to scare people.
And what's wrong with your Mini, BTW? Didn't you just buy that thing, and shouldn't it still have a factory warrant?
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The Mini is just being a pain in the ass. It's water pump failed at 23k miles and was replaced under warranty. Now it sounds like someone is jamming an empty soda can into a spinning bike wheel. It's horrible sounding. Factory warranty is good until 50k miles. I'm going to start looking to dump it come 45k miles. It also already rattles a bunch in the cabin.
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Water pumps fail. I don't read too much into those. BMW used pumps with plastic impellers for years. The first thing any responsible owner did was to replace the thing with an aftermarket pump with steel impellers that's good forever. Wouldn't surprise me if Mini did the same thing. As for the noise, when does it happen and where does it come from? Not trying to dissuade you from unloading the thing, just bored on Amtrak and playing the troubleshooting game. :lol
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Water pumps fail. I don't read too much into those. BMW used pumps with plastic impellers for years. The first thing any responsible owner did was to replace the thing with an aftermarket pump with steel impellers that's good forever. Wouldn't surprise me if Mini did the same thing. As for the noise, when does it happen and where does it come from? Not trying to dissuade you from unloading the thing, just bored on Amtrak and playing the troubleshooting game. :lol
I get that water pumps fail. The Passat and Mazda3 that I had prior to this both had one fail. However, both of those were after 100k miles. I'm a responsible owner, not a car mechanic, I couldn't swap out a water pump on a Mini without fucking a dozen other things up.
As for the rattles inside, wherever plastic meets plastic is a source of noise. The entire dash, the radio, the door moldings, etc... they all rattle unless I'm applying pressure with my arm or fist. Sorry for the late reply and leaving you hanging on the train haha.
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I know a guy who has a Mini that's been nothing but trouble. I don't know exactly what he has had to have done but he said something like after he hit 20k miles it was just one thing after another.
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Water pumps fail. I don't read too much into those. BMW used pumps with plastic impellers for years. The first thing any responsible owner did was to replace the thing with an aftermarket pump with steel impellers that's good forever. Wouldn't surprise me if Mini did the same thing. As for the noise, when does it happen and where does it come from? Not trying to dissuade you from unloading the thing, just bored on Amtrak and playing the troubleshooting game. :lol
I get that water pumps fail. The Passat and Mazda3 that I had prior to this both had one fail. However, both of those were after 100k miles. I'm a responsible owner, not a car mechanic, I couldn't swap out a water pump on a Mini without fucking a dozen other things up.
As for the rattles inside, wherever plastic meets plastic is a source of noise. The entire dash, the radio, the door moldings, etc... they all rattle unless I'm applying pressure with my arm or fist. Sorry for the late reply and leaving you hanging on the train haha.
Yeah, water pump should NOT be failing that quickly.
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Yeah, water pump should NOT be failing that quickly.
No. One shouldn't. But they can and do fail early sometimes. I just wouldn't take that as necessarily a knock against a car. However, it sounds like there's more than enough evidence from all sorts of people that the cars a pieces of shit.
Chino: I thought you were saying that there was a horrible noise, and the car rattled. I also wasn't suggesting that responsible car owners change their own water pumps. There are other repairs (timing belt, accessory belts, engine fan, etc.) that get done that involve getting down into it, and it's usually done then. Any mechanic who has to get within 30 minutes of a water pump will usually suggest you go ahead and replace it preventively. In the older BMWs, the rule was to replace the timing belt and the water pump whenever either one needed it. Adds 15 minutes of labor and restarts the clock.
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Reaper: don't you own some hot-ass M3 or something? I'd find out where exactly that leak is coming from. If it's a headbolt, you've got problems. If it's the valve cover or rear seal it's likely cheap enough to be better off fixed. No point in dealing with the hassle, especially given what oil costs nowadays.
I tracked it down last night, it's an oil filter gasket leak, and no, no m3 for me :(. I am looking to replace my 330 with an e92 m3 this summer. My issue is I took the s1000rr (motorcycle) for a ride a few months ago and I feel like I can live with my 330 and get another motorcycle.
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Reaper: don't you own some hot-ass M3 or something? I'd find out where exactly that leak is coming from. If it's a headbolt, you've got problems. If it's the valve cover or rear seal it's likely cheap enough to be better off fixed. No point in dealing with the hassle, especially given what oil costs nowadays.
I tracked it down last night, it's an oil filter gasket leak, and no, no m3 for me :(. I am looking to replace my 330 with an e92 m3 this summer. My issue is I took the s1000rr (motorcycle) for a ride a few months ago and I feel like I can live with my 330 and get another motorcycle.
Be careful getting that fixed. A local mechanic quoted me a shit-ton of labor on the filter housing gasket, since a lot of stuff would have to come off to get at it. Did it myself at a friends house in 2 hours, and most of that was learning curve time. Honestly, my new mechanic could have done it in 30 minutes. Also, the belts will have to come off, so if they're even slightly worn now is the time to replace them.
The thing that concerned me about the E92 M3 is the so-called "launch mode." Getting that thing to take off requires nearly as many steps as starting a B29 bomber. That's what I was saying about taking the fun out of driving. You shouldn't need a checklist to blow somebody off of a line. Also, I believe the car keeps track of how many times it's been done, and after a handful of "launches" BMW will void the warrant on your clutch packs.
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Reaper: don't you own some hot-ass M3 or something? I'd find out where exactly that leak is coming from. If it's a headbolt, you've got problems. If it's the valve cover or rear seal it's likely cheap enough to be better off fixed. No point in dealing with the hassle, especially given what oil costs nowadays.
I tracked it down last night, it's an oil filter gasket leak, and no, no m3 for me :(. I am looking to replace my 330 with an e92 m3 this summer. My issue is I took the s1000rr (motorcycle) for a ride a few months ago and I feel like I can live with my 330 and get another motorcycle.
Be careful getting that fixed. A local mechanic quoted me a shit-ton of labor on the filter housing gasket, since a lot of stuff would have to come off to get at it. Did it myself at a friends house in 2 hours, and most of that was learning curve time. Honestly, my new mechanic could have done it in 30 minutes. Also, the belts will have to come off, so if they're even slightly worn now is the time to replace them.
The thing that concerned me about the E92 M3 is the so-called "launch mode." Getting that thing to take off requires nearly as many steps as starting a B29 bomber. That's what I was saying about taking the fun out of driving. You shouldn't need a checklist to blow somebody off of a line. Also, I believe the car keeps track of how many times it's been done, and after a handful of "launches" BMW will void the warrant on your clutch packs.
I plan to do the work myself, there is very little that I won't work on in my cars.
Yea I remember that huge scandal when the launch control came out. I believe the the first gen GTR would also void it after a certain number of launched starts.
My buddy took me in a ride in his 2014 rs5 and did a launch start, it may have a 14 point check list but when it launches it feels like being kicked in the throat.
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Just began the prime of her life today:
(https://i.imgur.com/oohv8Zb.jpg)
I'd like to ask a paramedic how many times he's come across a car wrapped around a telephone pole with the clock at exactly 100,000. Guarantee it happens.
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I'll have to ask my dad.
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Well that sucks
https://www.cnn.com/2014/02/12/us/national-corvette-museum-cars-fall/
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That blows.
Well I got a call from the Mini dealer today. My water pump pulley assembly fell apart and my water pump was damaged in the process. So that all got replaced. So I've had two new water pumps installed in the last 7k miles.
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I've been driving a Civic EX for about 14 years now. Seriously thinking about a new 2014 Camaro SS. Tired of rice burners, although I'm also considering a 2014 Nissan 370Z. However, not as many options as the Camaro. We shall see.
Nah, keep burning rice (or better still kraut). Japanese sports cars are reasonably fast, reasonably agile and reasonably dependable. American muscle cars move up to stupidly fast at the expense of handling and reliability. Great for showing off at stoplights, but not much good for anything else (unless you're a dealership).
For the record, I wont discount the classic and now retro styling. Some of the throwback cars look really cool, and the new Camaros aren't bad. Americans muscle cars are just antithetical to everything I want in a car.
Well, it all comes down to trade offs really. Practical cars are usually low maintenance. High performance usually means higher maintenance depending on how you drive it. My Civic has paid for itself many times over but I've done practical long enough. For me, it's a question of what I want now and what I can fit into. I'm tall and I gave up some leg room in the Honda. Not many cars I can fit into comfortably. American muscle cars are more like toys than anything else. As far as handling goes, depends on the kind of package you get. A regular Camaro SS is just a nice looking and fast cruiser. If you want great handling, gotta get the 1LE performance upgrade. I like the Dodge Challenger body style too except for the tail lights. But the Camaro is just an all around great looking car.
Have you driven a 370z compared to a 350z? I'm curious because in high school I drove around in my dads 350 a few months while he was overseas. It was an awesome car but now that I'm 9 years older (good lord) the 350 and 370 didn't age well for me.
I haven't driven either to be honest. Considering test driving a 370, but from what I've heard, they produce a lot of road noise and I'm not sure about the leg room either. Only one way to find out for sure.
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I've been driving a Civic EX for about 14 years now. Seriously thinking about a new 2014 Camaro SS. Tired of rice burners, although I'm also considering a 2014 Nissan 370Z. However, not as many options as the Camaro. We shall see.
Nah, keep burning rice (or better still kraut). Japanese sports cars are reasonably fast, reasonably agile and reasonably dependable. American muscle cars move up to stupidly fast at the expense of handling and reliability. Great for showing off at stoplights, but not much good for anything else (unless you're a dealership).
For the record, I wont discount the classic and now retro styling. Some of the throwback cars look really cool, and the new Camaros aren't bad. Americans muscle cars are just antithetical to everything I want in a car.
Well, it all comes down to trade offs really. Practical cars are usually low maintenance. High performance usually means higher maintenance depending on how you drive it. My Civic has paid for itself many times over but I've done practical long enough. For me, it's a question of what I want now and what I can fit into. I'm tall and I gave up some leg room in the Honda. Not many cars I can fit into comfortably. American muscle cars are more like toys than anything else. As far as handling goes, depends on the kind of package you get. A regular Camaro SS is just a nice looking and fast cruiser. If you want great handling, gotta get the 1LE performance upgrade. I like the Dodge Challenger body style too except for the tail lights. But the Camaro is just an all around great looking car.
Just read up on the 1LE package and it looks like a damn fine value. If you were planning on keeping the car indefinitely, just the tranny cooler alone might be worth $4k. Better brakes, struts and sway bars will certainly improve the handling (although I don't know how much that's saying), and the better gearing will damn sure make it more fun to drive. Still not a fan of overpowered 2 ton behemoths, but for those who are into that sort of thing this looks like a fun ride.
And you should check out the Z. No experience with them myself since the 80's, buy my 280 was a great ride. Pretty good sized car and extraordinary handling (saved my life once).
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Yeah, my dad had a 79' 280Z 2+2. Pretty cool car. Lot's of leg room and very fast. Got to drive it a couple times. :tup
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That blows.
Well I got a call from the Mini dealer today. My water pump pulley assembly fell apart and my water pump was damaged in the process. So that all got replaced. So I've had two new water pumps installed in the last 7k miles.
Did they assembly fall apart last time, too? I could see how you'd lose two so quickly with a bigger problem like that going unnoticed the first time.
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(https://www.ronpatrickstuff.com/images/AB12_15_05copy.jpg)
That's cute.
(https://kmartin.smugmug.com/Transportation/Vehicles/i-bdFQGw4/0/XL/IMG_1742-XL.jpg)
That blows.
Well I got a call from the Mini dealer today. My water pump pulley assembly fell apart and my water pump was damaged in the process. So that all got replaced. So I've had two new water pumps installed in the last 7k miles.
Did they assembly fall apart last time, too? I could see how you'd lose two so quickly with a bigger problem like that going unnoticed the first time.
As far as I know, no. My guess it that when everything was put back together the first time, something was done incorrectly.
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The VW would be awesome if the engine stayed retracted until you need it. Sort of like the Subaru in Cannonball Run.
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I think this new release is pretty cool.
https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1090641_2015-jeep-renegade-is-the-new-baby-jeep-2014-geneva-motor-show
"Jeep is charting new waters with its 2015 Renegade, which takes the SUV brand into subcompact territory. The vehicle will also be built in Italy and imported to the U.S., which is another first for Jeep, but the good news is that the Renegade should live up to Jeep’s reputation for toughness and off-road prowess."
(https://images.thecarconnection.com/lrg/2015-jeep-renegade_100458448_l.jpg)
(https://images.thecarconnection.com/lrg/2015-jeep-renegade_100458451_l.jpg)
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So pothole season has taken its toll on my toyota matrix. My girlfriend is the primary driver, and told me she hit a particularly nasty pothole a few weeks ago. The next time she drove it, she noticed a loud periodic rumbling sound. I then drove it and noticed there was a pretty serious shake to go along with it. It wan't an alignment or wheel balance issue because it didn't always shake, and applying the brakes made it worse. So i brought it to Pep Boys where they do free brake inspections. They confirmed what I thought, and the brake calipers were "siezed", as they said. They quoted me ~$700 for the repair, I bought the parts myself, tipped the guy who looked at it for free, and left. The problem is that I live in an apartment, and need to bring it to a friend's house 35 miles and 2 bridge crossings away to do the repair.
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The problem is that I live in an apartment, and need to bring it to a friend's house 35 miles and 2 bridge crossings away to do the repair.
I know it sucks, but I'd set an alarm for 3AM and hit the road at its emptiest. I've had to do that before.
Similar story. Two winters ago, I hit a pothole and blew one of my rims to pieces. After struggling for a half our to get the wheel off, I got the spare on and continued home. Three miles later, I hit another pothole and destroyed the spare I had just put on. :tdwn
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So pothole season has taken its toll on my toyota matrix. My girlfriend is the primary driver, and told me she hit a particularly nasty pothole a few weeks ago. The next time she drove it, she noticed a loud periodic rumbling sound. I then drove it and noticed there was a pretty serious shake to go along with it. It wan't an alignment or wheel balance issue because it didn't always shake, and applying the brakes made it worse. So i brought it to Pep Boys where they do free brake inspections. They confirmed what I thought, and the brake calipers were "siezed", as they said. They quoted me ~$700 for the repair, I bought the parts myself, tipped the guy who looked at it for free, and left. The problem is that I live in an apartment, and need to bring it to a friend's house 35 miles and 2 bridge crossings away to do the repair.
Did you actually confirm the brake caliper issue yourself? Not sure why a pothole would cause one to seize, or how a seizure would cause what you're describing. I could conjure up a few guesses, but seized caliper would be somewhat low on the list. Top of the list would be one of the many bushings that are in a car's front end.
For what it's worth, replacing brakes stuff is one of the few car repair jobs I enjoy. Just make sure you have the appropriate tools, including the stuff you don't think of. Some kind of mallet is crucial. Couple of cheater bars, as well. Caliper parts tend to work themselves in ridiculously tight.
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The mechanic said the wheel wouldn't rotate freely. Also, the night before I had it inspected, while at a stop light, the car wouldn't move under idle power and it sounded as if I was partially applying the brakes (the slipping sound you hear when there is just barely enough pressure on the pads to keep the car stopped). I needed to apply power to get rolling. It felt like I was dragging a sled, and my gas mileage was significantly lower during that time, too.
My observations combined with the mechanic telling me the wheels didn't turn freely confirmed for me that it's the brakes. If it is an issue with bushings, then I will take that path once I make this repair. For $200 in parts (calipers, rotors and pads), I wont be too bent out of shape if this isn't the complete answer. She said she was on the brakes when she hit the pothole, so it seems reasonable that the impact could have transmitted to the brakes.
I don't mind doing brake jobs either, but the last time I replaced rotors, I had a real bitch of a time removing the caliper bracket bolts on one wheel, and couldn't change that rotor. I used the longest breaker bar I could fit in the wheel well, and then an impact wrench. I didn't have a torch available, which may have solved that problem. Moot point, as that car got flooded a few months later during hurricane Sandy.
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You're certainly describing a seized brake caliper. The problem I see is that a bump won't cause it to seize. Time certainly will and that's an easy enough fix (grease up the glide bolt, problem solved). If she hit the pothole hard enough to actually damage the caliper then you're going to find other trauma once you're down there. Since you've done caliper jobs before you know what they're built like. Imagine how much force it's going to take to bend one. :lol
Helpful hint from Barto: Since your're driving to a friend's place to do the work, consider stopping off at a Pep Boys or NTW near your friends and have them loosen the caliper bolts (which are always a real bitch). They've got the tools to do it and they can hand tighten it enough to get you the final mile or two to your buddy's. They'll either charge you a few bucks, or nothing at all, in which case you throw the helpful grease monkey a fiver and consider yourself a fortunate lad. I've resorted to that after breaking some Craftsman tools on those seized up bastards.
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My buddy works for his town's vehicle maintenance garage (fixes snow plows and stuff), and has his own tools at home, including impact sockets and pneumatic impact wrench. I figure that's what a garage would use, so I should be good there.
I am worried that an impact hard enough to make this damage has also damaged other stuff, including linkage. I figure since my alignment is fine that this might somehow not be the case.
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Success. No hangups at all. I expected all sorts of small problems, but regular hand tools did the job.
I now think there was a preexisting condition with the brakes which was made worse by the pothole impact. My gas mileage is noticeably better, even better than before the impact, and the car seems to coast and accelerate better. Ball joints, axles and steering and suspension linkage all seemed OK, but I do have an intermittent vibration when idling in gear. This is new since the impact, but I will keep an eye on it before giving a blank check to a mechanic to "see what's wrong". My friend mentioned a possible worn motor mount.
In other vehicle news, I also had a check engine light for many months which was identified by the code as a "lean mixture" (P0171), so a few weeks ago I got around to replacing the intake manifold gasket, and the light has stayed off since. This may also be a contributor to the improved gas mileage.
Cars can be a real pain in the ass, but I learn more and more about them with each problem.
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I want it! New 5-door Mini.
https://jalopnik.com/2015-mini-cooper-5-door-this-is-it-1586260430 (https://jalopnik.com/2015-mini-cooper-5-door-this-is-it-1586260430)
(https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--hQR7JnLO--/th7legzcpndrq89qdigi.jpg)
(https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--VmCeJVXz--/c_fit,fl_progressive,q_80,w_636/jacuaeohqbnbubtdlsfh.jpg)
(https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--GsbR0xGn--/c_fit,fl_progressive,q_80,w_636/vovpj1pkgwujyivjskeb.jpg)
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This is what I want:
2015 Subaru STI
(https://media.caranddriver.com/images/media/51/2015-subaru-wrx-sti-inline2-photo-565128-s-original.jpg)
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I want it! New 5-door Mini.
https://jalopnik.com/2015-mini-cooper-5-door-this-is-it-1586260430 (https://jalopnik.com/2015-mini-cooper-5-door-this-is-it-1586260430)
You already own a Mini and think it's a POS. :lol
Besides which, the modern Minis are actually far too big to really be comparable to their namesake. At this point there's not reason not to buy a normal car if you want extra seating. Seems to me like the people who would buy this are just doing so for status, which makes them no different than the people who drive H2's and Escalades.
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I want it! New 5-door Mini.
https://jalopnik.com/2015-mini-cooper-5-door-this-is-it-1586260430 (https://jalopnik.com/2015-mini-cooper-5-door-this-is-it-1586260430)
You already own a Mini and think it's a POS. :lol
Besides which, the modern Minis are actually far too big to really be comparable to their namesake. At this point there's not reason not to buy a normal car if you want extra seating. Seems to me like the people who would buy this are just doing so for status, which makes them no different than the people who drive H2's and Escalades.
True, but I haven't had a problem in 10k miles, so maybe I'm coming around :lol Status is exactly the reason I'd prefer the mini. Not because I think it makes me look rich or anything like that, but because it has a certain cool factor to it. When you build a car, you get to pick from a ridiculous amount of combinations and make a truly unique car. It's all part of the experience. When I need service, hanging out at the Mini dealership is actually pretty fun. Plus, I like being able to get 40+mpg during my 110 mile commute every day.
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So my friend reserved one of these:
https://finance.yahoo.com/blogs/daily-ticker/the-new-us-automaker-s--6800--84-mpg-elio--142815228.html
https://www.eliomotors.com/
Supposed to get a 80+ MPG, and cost $6,800.
Thoughts?
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(https://i.imgur.com/OA42Dnn.jpg?1)
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:lol
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Reminds me of the cousin it mobile :lol
(https://www.addamsfamily.com/addams/messerschmitt1.jpg)
Not that there's anything wrong with that. I actually think its a pretty cool idea.
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It's kind of like the T-Rex, but 1/10 the price.
(https://www.campagnamotors.com/media/32112/home_16s_poweredbybmw.jpg)
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@Chino
https://wot.motortrend.com/1406_new_mini_cooper_lego_set_contains_over_1000_pieces_picnic_set.html
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One of my hobbies is autocross. Here's an A/B of two runs from this past weekend:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GTlGvOE1qI
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One of my hobbies is autocross. Here's an A/B of two runs from this past weekend:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GTlGvOE1qI
Probably just me but I'd prefer to hear the car rather than the music (unless you were actually listening to it whilst driving). Anyway, looks like a helluva lot of fun. I really miss driving a car that offers up that much fun in second gear.
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Thanks. I need to mic my exhaust or intake, otherwise there is just too much wind noise (which I used the music to kind of cover up). That car is a lot of fun and you can still get it sideways in 2nd!
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Had a friend with a modded 335i come out for our monthly autocross and we had goPro's on both cars, so I synchronized the videos at time start. Granted, it would be a more fair driver comparison if the cars were in the same class and more fair car comparison if it were the same driver, but it's still interesting to see the differences.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8SG7xEVy3I
More videos from my runs that same day. Second part is me getting sideways on the last turn, third part is front tire at 50% speed since I was having issues with tire flex and roll last month and wanted to better understand what's going on up there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRfObBAzY9g
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Had a friend with a modded 335i come out for our monthly autocross and we had goPro's on both cars, so I synchronized the videos at time start. Granted, it would be a more fair driver comparison if the cars were in the same class and more fair car comparison if it were the same driver, but it's still interesting to see the differences.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8SG7xEVy3I
More videos from my runs that same day. Second part is me getting sideways on the last turn, third part is front tire at 50% speed since I was having issues with tire flex and roll last month and wanted to better understand what's going on up there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRfObBAzY9g
Huh. I'd have expected his turbo'd I6 to be quicker than your NA V8 out of the turns. Out of curiosity, is he as familiar with that course as you are? While I'd certainly expect your car to handle quite a bit better, it seemed you were more aggressive in those turns.
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Actually I have an I6 in mine, the S54. This is only his second time coming out, whereas I've been at it for almost a year (my fifth time on this particular course), so I have that advantage over him. He's making great progress and has dropped several seconds from his first time.
Three big differences between the two is he is on runflat all-seasons and I'm on summer tires; my launches are a lot better and I can hook up right away while he's still trying to find the sweet spot; and he has an open diff, while I have an LSD, so I can get on the power a lot more aggressively and earlier in the turns.
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Make's sense. I miss the LSD in my E30.
And damn, they really tune the hell out of those S motors. Conversely, I suspect they detune the hell out of the M motors. I'd expect a BMW I6 with twin screws to be a helluva lot beefier than what they're getting.
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You can make a ton of HP out of those turbos. Just a chip and bam! 400 HP, which the 335i driver had done. It was deliciously torquey.
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You can make a ton of HP out of those turbos. Just a chip and bam! 400 HP, which the 335i driver had done. It was deliciously torquey.
I was sitting in a chipped 335 recently and the power gain is nuts whereas the V8 M3 (which is my favorite M3 looks wise) was pretty much at it's limits.
I recently took my buddies 2014 RS5 out for a spin, jesus christ what a car, if I only had the money . . . .
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Yup, BMW pretty much got as much as they could out of the S54 and S65.
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Yeah, it honestly kind of saddened me that BMW had to resort to turbocharging. I certainly understand it; there wasn't anywhere else to go. But at the same time BMW essentially perfected the inline six. Doing so was largely a function of not throwing in the towel on natural aspiration, as their competitors had, and still being competitive. There's a certain traditionalist appeal in that for me.
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As long as they give it 3 pedals.
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I thought clutches were a thing of the past in this country. Anytime I walk past a sports car in a parking lot I look inside to see if it's a stick and haven't seen one in many years.
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I thought clutches were a thing of the past in this country. Anytime I walk past a sports car in a parking lot I look inside to see if it's a stick and haven't seen one in many years.
I wouldn't say a thing of the past quite yet. My buddy who works for a local BMW dealership says that a large number of the new m4 orders have been for true manuals.
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I'm shitting myself in excitement.
(https://www.thetorquereport.com/assets_c/2014/10/Tesla%20D%20Teaser-Twitter-0003-thumb-530xauto-37081.jpg)
I'm guessing the D is going to be the $40k range sedan model, and the something else will be an electric motorcycle or a pickup truck.
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Or.... you know... Musk is going to "leak" nudes of himself.
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I've never gotten everybody's fascination with Tesla Motors.
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???
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This photo has been floating around in light of yesterday's post.
(https://o.aolcdn.com/hss/storage/midas/448c0d45635e1c2f420541b72d24707/200861501/tesla-model-s-p85d-adelman.jpg)
Many are believing the "D" refers to a beefed up Model S, possibly indicating dual motors/4wd. Tesla's next vehicle, the Model X has a 4wd drivetrain, and since its platform is similar to the Model S', it's not too far fetched of an idea. The "85" portion of the badge probably means the battery is going to remain the same size. I don't think a 4wd Model S would be a terrible idea. The extra traction will knock down the 0-60 time (already a respectable 4.2) as well as maybe be more appealing to people in areas with winter.
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Good time to bump the thread. Picking this up from the dealership on Monday. Oh yeah! :hat
2015 Camaro ZL1
(https://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss308/Zulan8r/imagejpg2_zps06eee2a1.jpg) (https://s586.photobucket.com/user/Zulan8r/media/imagejpg2_zps06eee2a1.jpg.html)
(https://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss308/Zulan8r/imagejpg1_zps69307f57.jpg) (https://s586.photobucket.com/user/Zulan8r/media/imagejpg1_zps69307f57.jpg.html)
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Sick, enjoy the torque addiction!
:tup :tup :tup
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I've never gotten everybody's fascination with Tesla Motors.
Tesla/Musk are the Apple/Jobs of cars really.
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Good time to bump the thread. Picking this up from the dealership on Monday. Oh yeah! :hat
2015 Camaro ZL1
(https://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss308/Zulan8r/imagejpg2_zps06eee2a1.jpg) (https://s586.photobucket.com/user/Zulan8r/media/imagejpg2_zps06eee2a1.jpg.html)
(https://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss308/Zulan8r/imagejpg1_zps69307f57.jpg) (https://s586.photobucket.com/user/Zulan8r/media/imagejpg1_zps69307f57.jpg.html)
Today, I've officially entered BEAST MODE! 6.2 Liter Supercharged V8 580hp. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up. :biggrin:
-AAgent66
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What's the mpg like on that thing?
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Man... the new Raptor is gorgeous.
(https://i2.cdn.turner.com/money/dam/assets/150112100103-2015-naias-ford-raptor-1024x640.jpg)
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This was in a Cracked photoplasty and it really is quite amazing. Malibu driver would have limped away while the Bel Air driver would have been liquified. And this was only at 40mph. A good highway collision would have been even worse. A fine example of design beating the shit out of brute force.
(https://i.crackedcdn.com/phpimages/photoshop/0/7/6/361076_v1.gif)
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I should show this to the folks who still think older cars did better in crashes. Mostly, they compare heavy steel bumpers to new plastic ones.
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I should show this to the folks who still think older cars did better in crashes. Mostly, they compare heavy steel bumpers to new plastic ones.
Do a search for Malibu vs Bel Air and read the comments on any of the articles. Those guys are out in full force about it. "They removed the engine!!!" "The frame is all rusted out!!!" The physics behind what's happening here aren't complicated at all, so it baffles me that people would really put up a stink about it.
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I should show this to the folks who still think older cars did better in crashes. Mostly, they compare heavy steel bumpers to new plastic ones.
Ugh. I can't stand those people. Fucking red necks bitching about the new aluminum F150s and how Ford caved to the liberal earth lovers and the elite that want to make vehicles less safe for population control reasons.
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I actually just showed it to a guy, and I said "its pretty much disintegrated", to which he replied "yeah, the malibu"... Amazing how you can see what you want to see.
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:o That's a hot knife going through room-temp butter. I had to watch that a few times to get the full effect.
Regarding the bumper comparison comments, I've always been of the opinion that once you exceed 10-15 MPH, the material that the bumper is made from is of little consequence... it all comes down to the cage/frame structure that's built into the car.
Alternately, having been in two higher speed crashes myself (70+ MPH; both single car, both my fault of course), the older auto performed much worse than the newer auto. Thanks be to GOD that none of the occupants of my first crash were seriously hurt.
Honestly, I'd trust my mostly aluminum 2007 Dodge Magnum over my mostly steel 1998 Jeep Wrangler in any crash over 15MPH.
I should show this to the folks who still think older cars did better in crashes. Mostly, they compare heavy steel bumpers to new plastic ones.
Ugh. I can't stand those people. Fucking red necks bitching about the new aluminum F150s and how Ford caved to the liberal earth lovers and the elite that want to make vehicles less safe for population control reasons.
:lol Never seen that argument before
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If anybody is actually arguing with knuckleheads defending the older cars, ask them if that Bel Air was safer without seatbelts, which were an upgrade at that point of time. :lol The only reason that dummy didn't follow the windshiled down the street was because the steering wheel plowed into it's head.
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on my Datsun 280Z
Had one of those myself. A lot of trouble, but I'm certain that phenomenal front end save my life on one occasion whilst regrettably emulating one of the aforementioned heroes.
I ended up hitting a tree head-on at 60 mph, no seatbelt, and walked away with only a slight concussion, broken nose, and some cuts and bruises, in no small part because of that front end.
God, I miss that car. It was a horrible orange color, but I had a relatively rare 2+2, and mine was the first year with the fuel injection so except for the aforementioned tranny and changing out injectors like light bulbs, I didn't have much trouble.
Man, what was with those injectors? At one point the guys at a stealership actually slathered RTV all over one, which in retrospect is probably the best possible solution. Still, replaced quite a few before that came up as an option. Mine was the 2+2, but thankfully it was the classic metallic silver. And in my case it was the front end handling that saved my ass. Managed to somehow keep me on the road (barely, I could feel it breaking) on a sweeping entrance ramp at about 3 times the posted limit.
For shits and giggles I went online to see if there were any available (I'd go back to a 260, but I want to stay away from the 300s) and there are, but finding one that is a) not modded out the wazoo and b) reasonably priced for a 35 year old car with miles on it is seemingly impossible. For some reason, people LOVED swapping out the Japanese engines for some Detroit muscle, and for the life of me, mine didn't need it. That was a fast car as is.
Yeah, they were quick at the time but in retrospect quite underpowered. I suspect gear ratio factored in pretty heavily to their speediness, also. I wouldn't turn it into a muscle car, that's not what it was meant to be, but I'd certainly consider a bit more oomph to bring it up to modern standards. I believe those were 2.5s, NA or turboed, and throwing in a used BMW M52 in that displacement would certainly be a hoot.
This is making me wish I coulda have inherited my Dad's 280. I fucking LOVED that car.
Heh, I got ya beat. My old man drove one of these (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opel_GT) for a while. Traded the thing in for a damned Buick Regal. Fuck, maybe I should have left this in the role model thread. :lol
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Dayum.
My dad's was black with the red interior. 5 Speed. I don't remember much about it... but I do know it sat for many years due to a charging issue that plagued it for the entire time he owned it. He finally donated it when I was like 12 after my step bitch nagging him to get rid of it. He then turned around and bought a motorcycle. Haha
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My dad had a '68 Firebird 400 that he bought from his step-dad. After getting married, he sold it to a young teenager only after the kid's father insisted he was responsible and would take good care of it. 2 weeks later he wrapped it around a tree. :'(
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Fuuuuuuu
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What's the mpg like on that thing?
Hey, sorry for the extremely delayed response. I haven't been in this thread for a while. To answer your question, I've been averaging around 15.5 mpg in the city and that's taking it relatively easy through the gears. It's a 6 speed manual and 5th & 6th are overdrive so I would imagine on a long highway trip, I could get maybe close to 20 mpg. 6th gear at 70 mph is around 2000 rpm's. Not bad at all for cruising. :biggrin:
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It's funny how wimpy a lot of those older cars were compared to modern ones. My old man's Opel would get blown away by an Astrovan nowadays. Our Z cars wouldn't fair much better. Yet some of them are so stylish it's ridiculous. Bandit's '77 Black Edition TA is so fucking cool it belongs in a museum, yet it was pretty pedestrian, honestly.
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What's the mpg like on that thing?
Hey, sorry for the extremely delayed response. I haven't been in this thread for a while. To answer your question, I've been averaging around 15.5 mpg in the city and that's taking it relatively easy through the gears. It's a 6 speed manual and 5th & 6th are overdrive so I would imagine on a long highway trip, I could get maybe close to 20 mpg. 6th gear at 70 mph is around 2000 rpm's. Not bad at all for cruising. :biggrin:
The city side of that is actually quite good; better than my 325s got. The HWY side is absolutely appalling. Amazed it'd drink that much gas at 2k.
Drove an Audi back from Cali with a CVT and it was pretty strange. From 65-85 sat pretty close to the same 2k RPM (only the gear ratio changes, not the engine speed). Cruising along at 65 it'd show 400 miles range remaining, and then you bump it up to 82 or so and now you're looking at 460 (which you'd never, ever get realistically).
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Yeah, that 20 mpg hwy estimate is probably on the low side. Hoping to get closer to 25. However, I knew going in that gas mileage wasn't at the top of my list anymore. Especially with a $1,300.00 gas guzzler tax. This car is all about performance. Hell, the tires can't even be rotated because they are directional and the rear rims are an inch wider than the front. I won't be able to realize it's full potential until I get it out on a track and that's expensive in itself.
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Time for yet another brake job. I changed the brakes on my wife's Hyundai about a month before we lost our cars to a flood during hurricane Sandy. Then we replaced it with a Toyota, which got new front brakes after last winter destroyed the roads around here, resulting in a pothole impact that seized one of the calipers. About a week later, that car got rear ended and was totaled. Now we have a Volvo, and I've noticed the rear rotors look a bit grooved and rough. During an oil change I also had the tires rotated, and the mechanic suggested I replace them since they look warped. I had a mental note to do that at some point, so I decided to order the parts after hearing what he had to say. I'm not in any rush to do it since the front brakes are fine, and the weather is too damn cold to spend crouched in an icy driveway, but I did order the parts.
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After what you've described I think I'd rather take my chances with the bad brakes.
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Yeah. I'm not superstitious at all, but damn, all that is enough to make me hesitate on this job.
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I'm really excited about this.
https://www.autoevolution.com/news/new-jeep-grand-wagoneer-confirmed-by-jeep-ceo-87424.html
(https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/new-jeep-grand-wagoneer-confirmed-by-jeep-ceo-87424_1.jpg)
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https://www.zacks.com/stock/news/182229/teslas-gone-plaid-ludicrous-mode-for-the-model-s?cid=CS-CNN-HL-182229
EO and wunderkind Elon Musk just announced its Spaceball One “Ludicrous Mode” upgrade for the top-of-the-line P85D Model S electric sedan.
The cars 0-60 time improves by 10%, down to 2.8 seconds
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That's awesome.
I think I'll wait till they go to plaid though ;)
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Came Here to post my dream cars :P
1. Bugatti Veyron
2. Pagani Zonda
3. Dodge Challenger ( the one from Vanishing Point )
4. Delorean ( obviously money no object - i'd give it a complete overhaul from top to bottom )
5. Ariel Atom
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I drive a fully insured 2001 VW golf, I'm 26 and I only $67 a month. Fairly cheap insurance, my motorcycle insurance is much more.
I was stunned at how cheap it was to tax my 125 for a year
£17 ! :rollin
The insurance was £115 but spread out over a year at £11 a month
I cannot even believe they let me pay my £17 tax in 12 monthly payments of £1.50 a month :lol
The MOT will probably cost the most but whatevs. That's the last thing to pay for in a while.
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I should show this to the folks who still think older cars did better in crashes. Mostly, they compare heavy steel bumpers to new plastic ones.
Ugh. I can't stand those people. Fucking red necks bitching about the new aluminum F150s and how Ford caved to the liberal earth lovers and the elite that want to make vehicles less safe for population control reasons.
You're as predictable as the sun. :) One can be a Luddite without being a "conservative".
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I should show this to the folks who still think older cars did better in crashes. Mostly, they compare heavy steel bumpers to new plastic ones.
Ugh. I can't stand those people. Fucking red necks bitching about the new aluminum F150s and how Ford caved to the liberal earth lovers and the elite that want to make vehicles less safe for population control reasons.
You're as predictable as the sun. :) One can be a Luddite without being a "conservative".
The sun is pretty unpredictable. I didn't say anything about conservatives.
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It's funny how wimpy a lot of those older cars were compared to modern ones. My old man's Opel would get blown away by an Astrovan nowadays. Our Z cars wouldn't fair much better. Yet some of them are so stylish it's ridiculous. Bandit's '77 Black Edition TA is so fucking cool it belongs in a museum, yet it was pretty pedestrian, honestly.
That's the thing, though; those old cars had SWAG. I don't know what it is, though I suspect it's the same thing that makes the Astrovan a challenge; they get designed by man but optimized - read: homogenized - by computer.
They can make some of those engines so much smaller and more efficient these days. I remember my Dad had a 'Vette with a 454 in it ('67? '69?); that's INSANE, and totally unnecessary to get the same performance today.
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It's funny how wimpy a lot of those older cars were compared to modern ones. My old man's Opel would get blown away by an Astrovan nowadays. Our Z cars wouldn't fair much better. Yet some of them are so stylish it's ridiculous. Bandit's '77 Black Edition TA is so fucking cool it belongs in a museum, yet it was pretty pedestrian, honestly.
That's the thing, though; those old cars had SWAG. I don't know what it is, though I suspect it's the same thing that makes the Astrovan a challenge; they get designed by man but optimized - read: homogenized - by computer.
They can make some of those engines so much smaller and more efficient these days. I remember my Dad had a 'Vette with a 454 in it ('67? '69?); that's INSANE, and totally unnecessary to get the same performance today.
The 5.0L mustangs from the 90s made just over 200HP and had crap fuel economy. Today, Mini can squeeze nearly 230HP out of a 1.5L and still average 33mpg.
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It's funny how wimpy a lot of those older cars were compared to modern ones. My old man's Opel would get blown away by an Astrovan nowadays. Our Z cars wouldn't fair much better. Yet some of them are so stylish it's ridiculous. Bandit's '77 Black Edition TA is so fucking cool it belongs in a museum, yet it was pretty pedestrian, honestly.
That's the thing, though; those old cars had SWAG. I don't know what it is, though I suspect it's the same thing that makes the Astrovan a challenge; they get designed by man but optimized - read: homogenized - by computer.
They can make some of those engines so much smaller and more efficient these days. I remember my Dad had a 'Vette with a 454 in it ('67? '69?); that's INSANE, and totally unnecessary to get the same performance today.
The 5.0L mustangs from the 90s made just over 200HP and had crap fuel economy. Today, Mini can squeeze nearly 230HP out of a 1.5L and still average 33mpg.
And creak, rattle and shake while doing it. :P
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It's funny how wimpy a lot of those older cars were compared to modern ones. My old man's Opel would get blown away by an Astrovan nowadays. Our Z cars wouldn't fair much better. Yet some of them are so stylish it's ridiculous. Bandit's '77 Black Edition TA is so fucking cool it belongs in a museum, yet it was pretty pedestrian, honestly.
That's the thing, though; those old cars had SWAG. I don't know what it is, though I suspect it's the same thing that makes the Astrovan a challenge; they get designed by man but optimized - read: homogenized - by computer.
They can make some of those engines so much smaller and more efficient these days. I remember my Dad had a 'Vette with a 454 in it ('67? '69?); that's INSANE, and totally unnecessary to get the same performance today.
The 5.0L mustangs from the 90s made just over 200HP and had crap fuel economy. Today, Mini can squeeze nearly 230HP out of a 1.5L and still average 33mpg.
And creak, rattle and shake while doing it. :P
I'll admit, outside of my whole two waterpumps dying before 30k miles, I haven't had a single issue. I'll be passing 70k miles next week.
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So due to personal/family circumstances, I'm dumping a 2014 Subaru Forester for a 2015 Toyota Prius C. The Forester was a great vehicle, but too much car for my needs and interests vs. when I got it. Only complaint with it really was the interior and radio. I feel aesthetically the 4th gens became worse than the 3rd gens with interior.
I'm of course loosing a bit of my shirt on the switch, but the process was easy. And it makes me happier, as I have always wanted a hybrid. The only thing that blows is most of my driving in on the highway :lol.
Drove an Audi back from Cali with a CVT and it was pretty strange. From 65-85 sat pretty close to the same 2k RPM (only the gear ratio changes, not the engine speed). Cruising along at 65 it'd show 400 miles range remaining, and then you bump it up to 82 or so and now you're looking at 460 (which you'd never, ever get realistically).
The Forester had it, and an older car my wife had used one. While I am a fan of the concept and how they work, it's a bit false advertising IMO. And I don't know why they cannot have lower RPM's after 55mph if it is truly Continuously Variable. It's a concept that continues to elude me on car makers- why is 55 the optimal speed for mileage vs. 65mph or greater. The interstate speed limits for most states outside of urban areas has been 65+ for decades now. Most people stick to interstates vs. state roads/routes that are 55.
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Part of the problem with the Fox body Mustangs of the eighties and early nineties was the hatchback configuration. The fastback coupes that followed (I had a 2000 and currently have a 2011) do not have (in my experience) the creaks, rattles, and shakes that the hatchbacks had (I also had a Fox body Mercury Capri).
Yes, it's true that the pushrod Windsor V-8s were low in horsepower (peaking at 225 from 1987 to 1991), but they also had 300 lb-ft torque, all available at a fairly low rpm compared to the OHC Modular engines, so they weren't lacking in every-day driving power. Top speed, 0-to-60, or quarter mile times doesn't matter for most people, 30-70 times merging onto the highway is probably the most important performance factor in automobiles.
My 2011 V-6 has 305 hp, which is plenty by most people's standards, but it doesn't feel like that much. I've driven many pushrod V-8s with less hp, and they would have probably been better merging than my OHC Stang because of the full torque being available at a lower rpm. It also doesn't really take off until I reach highway speed, with 0-60 being about average, but then once I'm there, it gets up to 90 in the blink of an eye if you're not careful.
Someone earlier in this thread complained about the transmission (automatic, I assume) on Mustangs. Mine seems like it has a little difficulty staying at 6th gear (Overdrive) unless it is in cruise control, and seems to slip back and forth between 5th and 6th. It's just a minor annoyance, since I normally use cruise for highway driving anyway. I think that 90% of Mustang (and Camaro, Challenger buyers) buy these cars for the styling, and they aren't going to use the backseat for anything but their coats or briefcases/backpacks anyway. Performance isn't that much of a factor in their decision to buy these cars.
I just read an article in C** And Dr**** (not sure if we're allowed to use magazine names here) that totally trashes the EcoBoost 4-cylinder. Ford is forcing it on people by making the V-6 only available in Spartan, entry-level Mustangs with no options. Despite having 10 fewer horsepower (which might be a marketing ploy and not really accurate), the six still outperforms the four in just about every performance measurement, and the savings in mileage isn't as good as it was supposed to be. Plus, you'll probably have to replace your exhaust manifolds in 50,000 miles, like people who bought the EcoBoost six in F-series pickups instead of the Coyote V-8 are finding out.
While I don't want to eliminate the EPA or anything like that, I do believe that CAFE is killing the automobile industry. Gas is expensive in the U.S., but nothing like it is in Europe, where it costs about four times as much as it does here, once the gallon to liter and dollar to euro conversions are made. Ford was unable to offer an automatic in their Shelby and Boss 302 Mustangs because they would have sold too many and it would have hurt their CAFE numbers (although not too many people would have probably bought automatic Boss 302s, but the sixties Shelbys were always available with autos). And other than the low-volume supercharged 6.2L in the Cadillac CTS, the regular LS3 engine was never available in the midline CTS (where most people would have probably chosen it if it were an option) or the RWD STS (which would have been an improvement from the mediocre optional Northstar) from the mid-2000s, probably because they would have sold too many. I don't know how Chrysler isn't getting killed by the government because they don't sell a lot of Darts and 200s, and are still able to sell SRT 6.4s and single-digit-city mileage 707 hp Hellcats, even in tiny numbers.
Ford really screwed up with their EcoBoost program, whereas GM and Chrysler were smarter developing cylinder deactivation technology and beating Ford with eight-speed automatics compared to Ford's six-speeds. The EcoBoost engines, with the exception of the 3.5L six (in the Taurus SHO and Lincolns, anyway) aren't particularly powerful and the mileage has been mostly less than expected.
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Drove an Audi back from Cali with a CVT and it was pretty strange. From 65-85 sat pretty close to the same 2k RPM (only the gear ratio changes, not the engine speed). Cruising along at 65 it'd show 400 miles range remaining, and then you bump it up to 82 or so and now you're looking at 460 (which you'd never, ever get realistically).
The Forester had it, and an older car my wife had used one. While I am a fan of the concept and how they work, it's a bit false advertising IMO. And I don't know why they cannot have lower RPM's after 55mph if it is truly Continuously Variable. It's a concept that continues to elude me on car makers- why is 55 the optimal speed for mileage vs. 65mph or greater. The interstate speed limits for most states outside of urban areas has been 65+ for decades now. Most people stick to interstates vs. state roads/routes that are 55.
It's not about optimizing the speed, but rather the engine speed. Ideally with a CVT you want the car to remain in the peak spot of its powerband. It would appear that 2k is the sweet spot in that car providing the most power/fuel. That tranny would keep it there through about 35mph on the highway. It didn't start creeping up until 85 or so. All that said, I really never noticed much of a benefit MPG wise. Got about the same mileage as any other 6-banger I've owned.
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No shit, in the coincidence department, but yesterday I was taking my daughter to camp and at the stop light, a late-70's black Trans-am with the gold hood decal and everything drove by me. It appeared to be in great shape, though it was driven by what looked to be a soccer mom. :)
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Drove an Audi back from Cali with a CVT and it was pretty strange. From 65-85 sat pretty close to the same 2k RPM (only the gear ratio changes, not the engine speed). Cruising along at 65 it'd show 400 miles range remaining, and then you bump it up to 82 or so and now you're looking at 460 (which you'd never, ever get realistically).
The Forester had it, and an older car my wife had used one. While I am a fan of the concept and how they work, it's a bit false advertising IMO. And I don't know why they cannot have lower RPM's after 55mph if it is truly Continuously Variable. It's a concept that continues to elude me on car makers- why is 55 the optimal speed for mileage vs. 65mph or greater. The interstate speed limits for most states outside of urban areas has been 65+ for decades now. Most people stick to interstates vs. state roads/routes that are 55.
It's not about optimizing the speed, but rather the engine speed. Ideally with a CVT you want the car to remain in the peak spot of its powerband. It would appear that 2k is the sweet spot in that car providing the most power/fuel. That tranny would keep it there through about 35mph on the highway. It didn't start creeping up until 85 or so. All that said, I really never noticed much of a benefit MPG wise. Got about the same mileage as any other 6-banger I've owned.
I think the Forester went beyond 2k RPMS after 55mph, so is probably different for each car maker. Sounds like yours was a solid one. Then again, I expect better performance and tuning from an Audi vs. a generic Subaru (not counted the Impreza WRX STI).
Yeah, they are very minimal in MPG improvements. The previous gen Forester had a traditional gear transmission, and the CVT one only got about 2 MPG better in the city. And that can be accounted for in other areas too due to the redesign.
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Higher RPM doesn't necessarily mean worse mileage, though. It's entirely possible that the sweet spot in that Suburu was at 2500. Both of my BMWs hit their stride at 3k, and running it less than that was inefficient in the long run.
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No shit, in the coincidence department, but yesterday I was taking my daughter to camp and at the stop light, a late-70's black Trans-am with the gold hood decal and everything drove by me. It appeared to be in great shape, though it was driven by what looked to be a soccer mom. :)
I throw SatB on from time to time, including a couple of months ago. It's funny that the 77 Black Edition was such hot shit back in the day, and at this point it might as well be your mom's astrovan. :lol
Absolutely gorgeous car, though. Man, talk about style.
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Help, my check engine light has been on for about 24 hours. What does it mean?!? I'm afraid whatever the problem is, it will leave me broke. On the bright side, I just finally paid off my car last month :D
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Help, my check engine light has been on for about 24 hours. What does it mean?!? I'm afraid whatever the problem is, it will leave me broke. On the bright side, I just finally paid off my car last month :D
Not sure what sort of car it is but if it's anything halfway modern and not particularly exotic the minions at Autozone will pull the codes for free and tell you what the trouble is. Then you can decide what to do (and ignoring it is often an option). Most likely culprit is the O2 sensor (got one of those on, myself). Honestly, most CEL problems turn out to be pretty minor. There are a ton of car problems worth losing sleep over but CELs aren't really one of them.
Until you do get it looked into you might keep an eye out for some sort of limp mode. If there's something actually wrong then the car might hobble itself so that you can drive (limp) home or to a garage, but not out to run a day's worth of errands. For a CEL it might be something like refusing to exceed 2k RPM. My E36 would also shut off the AC in limp mode. Transmission limp modes like to lock you into 2nd and 5th gear. Either way you get s sluggish ride to safety but that's about all.
Just don't worry much about it. Get it fixed at some point pretty soon, be mindful of the car behaving strangely until then and you'll be fine. I really can't think of much that'll throw a CEL that would cost too much.
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It's funny how wimpy a lot of those older cars were compared to modern ones. My old man's Opel would get blown away by an Astrovan nowadays. Our Z cars wouldn't fair much better. Yet some of them are so stylish it's ridiculous. Bandit's '77 Black Edition TA is so fucking cool it belongs in a museum, yet it was pretty pedestrian, honestly.
That's the thing, though; those old cars had SWAG. I don't know what it is, though I suspect it's the same thing that makes the Astrovan a challenge; they get designed by man but optimized - read: homogenized - by computer.
They can make some of those engines so much smaller and more efficient these days. I remember my Dad had a 'Vette with a 454 in it ('67? '69?); that's INSANE, and totally unnecessary to get the same performance today.
The 5.0L mustangs from the 90s made just over 200HP and had crap fuel economy. Today, Mini can squeeze nearly 230HP out of a 1.5L and still average 33mpg.
And creak, rattle and shake while doing it. :P
I'll admit, outside of my whole two waterpumps dying before 30k miles, I haven't had a single issue. I'll be passing 70k miles next week.
I spoke to soon. I have a loaner right now. My Mini went into the dealer on Saturday because of a check engine light and no power. There's a very noticeable shaking when the car is idling, and there was no umph under 4k rpm.
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Oh Minis. Lol
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It's funny how wimpy a lot of those older cars were compared to modern ones. My old man's Opel would get blown away by an Astrovan nowadays. Our Z cars wouldn't fair much better. Yet some of them are so stylish it's ridiculous. Bandit's '77 Black Edition TA is so fucking cool it belongs in a museum, yet it was pretty pedestrian, honestly.
That's the thing, though; those old cars had SWAG. I don't know what it is, though I suspect it's the same thing that makes the Astrovan a challenge; they get designed by man but optimized - read: homogenized - by computer.
They can make some of those engines so much smaller and more efficient these days. I remember my Dad had a 'Vette with a 454 in it ('67? '69?); that's INSANE, and totally unnecessary to get the same performance today.
The 5.0L mustangs from the 90s made just over 200HP and had crap fuel economy. Today, Mini can squeeze nearly 230HP out of a 1.5L and still average 33mpg.
And creak, rattle and shake while doing it. :P
I'll admit, outside of my whole two waterpumps dying before 30k miles, I haven't had a single issue. I'll be passing 70k miles next week.
I spoke to soon. I have a loaner right now. My Mini went into the dealer on Saturday because of a check engine light and no power. There's a very noticeable shaking when the car is idling, and there was no umph under 4k rpm.
DTF presents: You Make The Call.
You're definitely missing a cylinder. Causes it to shake at idle and lag something mighty under a load (accelerating up to higher RPMs). As for the cause, my customary first guess is a bad coil pack. Could be anything, though. Seems those cars are prone to a very rapid buildup of carbon deposits. If that's the case I'd take it to somebody that isn't a dealer and have it dealt with on the cheap. Very likely that a $14 can of Seafoam would straighten it right up.
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It's funny how wimpy a lot of those older cars were compared to modern ones. My old man's Opel would get blown away by an Astrovan nowadays. Our Z cars wouldn't fair much better. Yet some of them are so stylish it's ridiculous. Bandit's '77 Black Edition TA is so fucking cool it belongs in a museum, yet it was pretty pedestrian, honestly.
That's the thing, though; those old cars had SWAG. I don't know what it is, though I suspect it's the same thing that makes the Astrovan a challenge; they get designed by man but optimized - read: homogenized - by computer.
They can make some of those engines so much smaller and more efficient these days. I remember my Dad had a 'Vette with a 454 in it ('67? '69?); that's INSANE, and totally unnecessary to get the same performance today.
The 5.0L mustangs from the 90s made just over 200HP and had crap fuel economy. Today, Mini can squeeze nearly 230HP out of a 1.5L and still average 33mpg.
And creak, rattle and shake while doing it. :P
I'll admit, outside of my whole two waterpumps dying before 30k miles, I haven't had a single issue. I'll be passing 70k miles next week.
I spoke to soon. I have a loaner right now. My Mini went into the dealer on Saturday because of a check engine light and no power. There's a very noticeable shaking when the car is idling, and there was no umph under 4k rpm.
DTF presents: You Make The Call.
You're definitely missing a cylinder. Causes it to shake at idle and lag something mighty under a load (accelerating up to higher RPMs). As for the cause, my customary first guess is a bad coil pack. Could be anything, though. Seems those cars are prone to a very rapid buildup of carbon deposits. If that's the case I'd take it to somebody that isn't a dealer and have it dealt with on the cheap. Very likely that a $14 can of Seafoam would straighten it right up.
The dealer fucked me in the ass today. You're spot on.
I brought it in on Saturday (already had an unrelated service appointment scheduled) with the light on and told them the problem. I authorized them to do a diagnostic at the sweet price of $135. Got a call a little while ago that all four of my plugs are shot and one wasn't functioning at all. Carbon buildup is a bitch in those little 4-bangers. I gave it the seafoam treatment at 25K and 50K miles just to be safe.
Had I not had to go in for the service appointment, I probably wouldn't have even bothered bringing it to the dealer. I would have gone to a shop in town. There is a big perk about going to the dealer though. I can can a loaner if I need to. If the shop in town has my car for a week, I don't have a car for a week. The money I had to spend today is a little easier to swallow when I consider that I got to put 400 miles on someone else's car at no extra expense to me.
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So how'd the dealer fuck you? What's their recommendation? You've seafoamed it twice and still have carbon deposits? A one week rental will cost you less than the difference between a local mech and a dealer.
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I'll give the brief version.
1) My car was due for a scheduled service appointment.
2) The day before that my car lost power on the highway. It could still drive, but it hit a wall at 55mph and sounded like shit.
3) The car was at the dealership and I was told the plugs were shot and one was no longer functioning. I saw them and they looked terrible.
4) Convinced that that was the problem, and I'd have to tow the car home to do it myself (on top of paying the $135 diagnostic fee), I authorized them to give me all new plugs and a tune up for a whopping $387.
5) I picked the car up and got about 50 feet down the road before the issue came back and the engine light re-illuminated.
6) Brought the car back and took the loaner for another day.
7) Just got a call that my coil pack died. I guess it's normally about $250 with labor to replace, but they are giving it to me for $105 for the inconvenience.
Either way, I'm still a good $500 into this repair.
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I'd want to know why the plugs looked so bad. All in all, assuming they applied the diagnostic charge to the tune up it doesn't sound all that unreasonable for dealership work. Although I'd certainly want to know what all they put into the tune-up.
And it sounds to me like they just charged you for the coil and waived the labor (all of 15 minutes anyway). A buck-fifteen seems to be pretty normal for those things.
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I'd want to know why the plugs looked so bad. All in all, assuming they applied the diagnostic charge to the tune up it doesn't sound all that unreasonable for dealership work. Although I'd certainly want to know what all they put into the tune-up.
And it sounds to me like they just charged you for the coil and waived the labor (all of 15 minutes anyway). A buck-fifteen seems to be pretty normal for those things.
They were the original plugs with 70k miles on them. I thought they got replaced at 50k miles, but I guess not.
I'm not sure about everything the tuneup includes. I know I'm getting new transmission and brake fluid and they'll be checking the condition of all my belts and chains. I'm pretty sure new wipers all around are including that as well. The diagnostic charge was applied to the tune up. I'm less upset today than I was yesterday. Despite having to shell out more money, I feel like I'm getting a better deal.
Is a coil pack just the modern name for a distributor?
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They fill the same role (firing the plugs) but are very different things. In older cars there was one or two coils and then a distributor which sent current to each plug in sequence. In modern cars each plug has its own coil and the ECU tells it when to fire. Definitely more efficient and effective, but in the old days your points wore down and you slapped a new distributor/rotor into the car for $20. Nowadays you've got 4 to 12 coil packs in there which run you $100+ when they fail. Once your car gets old enough that you're not hung up on new, factory parts you start buying them used on eBay.
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Help, my check engine light has been on for about 24 hours. What does it mean?!? I'm afraid whatever the problem is, it will leave me broke. On the bright side, I just finally paid off my car last month :D
Not sure what sort of car it is but if it's anything halfway modern and not particularly exotic the minions at Autozone will pull the codes for free and tell you what the trouble is. Then you can decide what to do (and ignoring it is often an option). Most likely culprit is the O2 sensor (got one of those on, myself). Honestly, most CEL problems turn out to be pretty minor. There are a ton of car problems worth losing sleep over but CELs aren't really one of them.
Until you do get it looked into you might keep an eye out for some sort of limp mode. If there's something actually wrong then the car might hobble itself so that you can drive (limp) home or to a garage, but not out to run a day's worth of errands. For a CEL it might be something like refusing to exceed 2k RPM. My E36 would also shut off the AC in limp mode. Transmission limp modes like to lock you into 2nd and 5th gear. Either way you get s sluggish ride to safety but that's about all.
Just don't worry much about it. Get it fixed at some point pretty soon, be mindful of the car behaving strangely until then and you'll be fine. I really can't think of much that'll throw a CEL that would cost too much.
Thanks! It's an '06 Impala, btw.
So the light went off last night, but I took it in today anyway because it's been feeling kind of funny (not quite accelerating the way it should and running more loudly than usual, mostly). Apparently the check engine light had been on due to the fuel being too rich? I still don't quite understand this concept but read up a bit on it.
I do need a new muffler, which I've known for a while (well, I knew I would need one soon) because it has some holes in it. So he's replacing the muffler, which won't come til tomorrow morning- huge pain in the ass in my line of work, with me having to be driven around by other people.
He also said this probably doesn't need immediate attention, but the catalytic converter is loose and "going bad," whatever that means, and some other stuff that was like a foreign language. Right now the plan is to replace the muffler tomorrow afternoon and then drive it around about ten miles to see how it's running and clean things out a bit because of the whole "rich" thing. Then I may have to come back to get whatever else fixed down the road when it gets worse. The muffler work is going to be about $280. Could be a lot worse!
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Help, my check engine light has been on for about 24 hours. What does it mean?!? I'm afraid whatever the problem is, it will leave me broke. On the bright side, I just finally paid off my car last month :D
Not sure what sort of car it is but if it's anything halfway modern and not particularly exotic the minions at Autozone will pull the codes for free and tell you what the trouble is. Then you can decide what to do (and ignoring it is often an option). Most likely culprit is the O2 sensor (got one of those on, myself). Honestly, most CEL problems turn out to be pretty minor. There are a ton of car problems worth losing sleep over but CELs aren't really one of them.
Until you do get it looked into you might keep an eye out for some sort of limp mode. If there's something actually wrong then the car might hobble itself so that you can drive (limp) home or to a garage, but not out to run a day's worth of errands. For a CEL it might be something like refusing to exceed 2k RPM. My E36 would also shut off the AC in limp mode. Transmission limp modes like to lock you into 2nd and 5th gear. Either way you get s sluggish ride to safety but that's about all.
Just don't worry much about it. Get it fixed at some point pretty soon, be mindful of the car behaving strangely until then and you'll be fine. I really can't think of much that'll throw a CEL that would cost too much.
Thanks! It's an '06 Impala, btw.
So the light went off last night, but I took it in today anyway because it's been feeling kind of funny (not quite accelerating the way it should and running more loudly than usual, mostly). Apparently the check engine light had been on due to the fuel being too rich? I still don't quite understand this concept but read up a bit on it.
I do need a new muffler, which I've known for a while (well, I knew I would need one soon) because it has some holes in it. So he's replacing the muffler, which won't come til tomorrow morning- huge pain in the ass in my line of work, with me having to be driven around by other people.
He also said this probably doesn't need immediate attention, but the catalytic converter is loose and "going bad," whatever that means, and some other stuff that was like a foreign language. Right now the plan is to replace the muffler tomorrow afternoon and then drive it around about ten miles to see how it's running and clean things out a bit because of the whole "rich" thing. Then I may have to come back to get whatever else fixed down the road when it gets worse. The muffler work is going to be about $280. Could be a lot worse!
Ya might be putting the cart before the horse. If the car is running rich it can cause all sorts of failures (eventually--nothing immediately dangerous) including damaging the exhaust. The cat in particular, and those things aren't as cheap as mufflers. In any event, that CEL will leave codes in the computer telling a mechanic what was going on, even if the light is now out. Somebody should be able to pull those codes and tell you exactly why it's running rich, and it probably won't be anything too bad. Then you can get that fixed and save further troubles down the road. It's also possible that just a simple tune-up will solve your fuel problem, and will likely need to be done anyway (your plugs are probably bad now). However I wouldn't do that until you have all of the pertinent information.
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Thanks. I will be going in there with a fucking notebook tomorrow to try and make sense of all this :lol
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Sooo my muffler was replaced but I will need a new catalytic converter. That is the reason for the CEL and the fuel running rich. Apparently there are little pieces that come loose and plug the muffler/restrict airflow. He said it's supposed to be heating up 100 degrees but instead is cooling down 10? I don't fully get it, but that's the story.
I thought that I could survive until my next paycheck before dealing with that $700+ bill, but about ten minutes after I left the shop the light went back on and the car felt even worse than when I had brought it in. I called and the guy explained that yeah, it could fluctuate and get a bit better, but it could also just keep getting worse until it's replaced. So I told him to go ahead and order the part and it should be here in the next few days. Oy vey, my wallet.
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Life is punishing you for going to Alaska.
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Sooo my muffler was replaced but I will need a new catalytic converter. That is the reason for the CEL and the fuel running rich. Apparently there are little pieces that come loose and plug the muffler/restrict airflow. He said it's supposed to be heating up 100 degrees but instead is cooling down 10? I don't fully get it, but that's the story.
I thought that I could survive until my next paycheck before dealing with that $700+ bill, but about ten minutes after I left the shop the light went back on and the car felt even worse than when I had brought it in. I called and the guy explained that yeah, it could fluctuate and get a bit better, but it could also just keep getting worse until it's replaced. So I told him to go ahead and order the part and it should be here in the next few days. Oy vey, my wallet.
I'll be curious to see if that resolves your mixture problem. I still think you're going to be putting an O2 sensor in there before it's all said and done.
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He said the O2 sensor is okay itself but isn't working properly because it's behind the catalytic converter so it's not registering the way it should and it locked up. Does that make sense to you? Again, all foreign language to me :lol
The CEL went on and then off again today but I noticed my car driving a lot better as the day went on, so he was right about the fluctuation thing...
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Yeah, it actually does make sense. At the same time, this just seems like an odd sequence of events to me. I've had cats fail after years of deterioration so that eventually it won't pass an emissions test. For one to go so categorically bad that it disrupts the running of the car isn't an experience I'm familiar with. Moreover, running particularly rich is a surefire way to hasten the death of one. What you said in your last post is plausible, though, if a it strange to me.
Regardless, hope it works out.
edit: a tiny bit of googling says that yours is indeed a common problem. Chevy just used shitty cats, by the looks of it. Bummer.
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Well, that makes sense then. I've also beaten the SHIT out of this car since I got it five years ago. I've put something like 87,000 miles on it driving around for work all day and taking epic road trips. I'm surprised it hasn't cost me more money up until this point, TBH. Usually it's just an expensive brake job every once in a while, and the one time I totally fucked up my wheel hitting a curb. Mr. Humbert has been very good to me :heart
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Looks like Tesla has it's first major competitor.
https://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/0/220c660c-5b2c-11e5-a28b-50226830d644.html#axzz3ljHmtSLP
(https://im.ft-static.com/content/images/e72a0086-d239-43ce-b2ed-03c3122d5fab.img)
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The world’s biggest carmakers have made a fresh show of commitment to electric vehicles, with Volkswagen unveiling a battery-powered Porsche capable of travelling 500km on a single charge and refuelling to almost full in 15 minutes.
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Though it loses out to the Model S in terms of acceleration — doing 0-60mph in 3.5 seconds, versus less than 3 seconds for Tesla — the charging time is impressive. Porsche says it can reach an 80 per cent charge of electrical energy in only 15 minutes.
The car is only at the concept phase, but Porsche — which is owned by VW — said it would decide by the end of the year whether to bring the car into production.
Concerns overshadow show
Range Rover Production At Jaguar Land Rover Plc's Halewood Factory...Employees work on a Range Rover Evoque SUV automobile, produced by Jaguar Land Rover Plc, a unit of Tata Motors Ltd., as it travels along the production line at the company's assembly plant in Halewood, U.K., on Wednesday, Feb. 13, 2013. Carmakers from Ford Motor Co. to Audi AG and Jaguar Land Rover Plc are using record amounts of aluminium to replace heavier steel, providing relief to producers of the metal confronting excess supplies and depressed prices. Photographer: Simon Dawson/Bloomberg
By far the dominant concern in Frankfurt will be China.Falling sales in China are taking a toll on the jumbo pricing and outsized margins that carmakers have been enjoying in the country for several years.
VW also used its traditional eve-of-show party to display a similarly capable electric vehicle under its Audi brand. The e-tron quattro, teased several weeks ago, is a sport utility vehicle that can also do 310 miles and boasts no less than three electric motors.
Again, the car is only at the concept stage, but VW promises it will be delivered by early 2018.
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This is just insane, I love the Agera
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SywqgH7n-5g
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I guess if you can afford the car you can afford to trash $2,400 worth of tires in a single afternoon impressing chicks.
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115,000 preorders in the first 3 hours.
Starting price of $35,000 and autopilot comes standard on even the most base models. I would lovvve it if Tesla released a mid-sized pickup.
(https://cdn0.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/AXhUkt3C4GvC1v0dh2Y4PN6BFkQ=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn0.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6273063/silver_3.0.jpg)
(https://cdn1.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/nrfx32-lraL_F9aGE_ul9H9U1P8=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn0.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6273023/model-3-unveil.0.jpg)
(https://cdn3.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/y6ghm1M_HBJOPYhyb4P9akTwdVI=/800x0/filters:no_upscale()/cdn0.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6272911/teslastreammodel3.0.jpg)
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I own a 2007 Volvo V50. There was some suspension noise and I knew I needed to replace the control arms (the ball joints and bushings are integral to the control arm). I have an account on All Data DIY, which is just an online service manual with lots of great info. I bought OEM parts online from a volvo parts seller, and drove to my mother's house to have access to a garage and my tools. After some difficulty in the heat and rain last week, I removed the old arms and began to install the new ones. With the passenger side installed, I begin the driver side only to realize that I was sent two passenger side control arms. Now what?! I checked the packing list and the parts themselves when the arrived, but I didnt actually take them out and place them side by side to make sure I had a matching pair. The other "passenger" side was labeled with the driver side part number so I concluded that this was not my error. The online seller sent me a return label to ship the wrong part for a refund, but the correct part wouldn't arrive for 2 days since I called them after normal working hours. I decided I didn't want to wait, so the next morning I went to my local Volvo dealer who said they had it in stock. When I arrived, the guy pulled the part and put it on the counter, and I scratched my head for a minute since I swore it looked like the passenger side. He insisted it was the driver side since the part number matched his database, but I then asked him to pull the passenger side part. Lo and behold, they were the same! Now I realized that it was a good thing I was able to lay my hands on the part because there was a good chance the "correct" one being shipped to me was also wrong. There must be hundreds or thousands of them mislabeled for me to encounter this problem on the first 2 randomly selected parts from different areas of the country. So I drive back to my mother's (using her car that I stole for the night) and put on the correct part. This error wound up costing me about $100 more than it should have, and I will contact Volvo corporate to see if I can get some credit or something. Since both parts would have fit the passenger side, it is fortunate that i installed the one with the correct part number, otherwise I would have to try returning a correctly labeled part.
tl;dr, I bought driver and passenger side parts from an online seller. Received two passenger side parts, one with a driver side part number. Encountered the same problem at a local parts dealer and realized this is some factory screw up. Cost me about $100 and a day without my car.
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That's a drag. I know the folks at the local BMW dealer can be pretty flaky with parts and numbers. One guy told me flat out that a part didn't exist for my car. I found the part number, called him up and ordered it the next day. I had another guy quote me $48/ea for spark plugs, which is so over the top there had to be something screwed up in their system.
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Sold my 2004 Ford Ranger and bought a 2014 Ford F-150. I checked back on the dealership to see what they were selling my Ranger for and they want $10,000 for it. I paid 8000 for it two years ago. I took really good care of it though and it essentially looks new
https://www.hudsonford.com/used/Ford/2004-Ford-Ranger-hudson-wi-5d81f77f0a0e0ae8595b246c4dd6a2ae.htm?searchDepth=1:2 (https://www.hudsonford.com/used/Ford/2004-Ford-Ranger-hudson-wi-5d81f77f0a0e0ae8595b246c4dd6a2ae.htm?searchDepth=1:2)
I'm really happy with my F150 though. It's fun to drive and I love having all of that room.
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Sold my 2004 Ford Ranger and bought a 2014 Ford F-150. I checked back on the dealership to see what they were selling my Ranger for and they want $10,000 for it. I paid 8000 for it two years ago. I took really good care of it though and it essentially looks new
https://www.hudsonford.com/used/Ford/2004-Ford-Ranger-hudson-wi-5d81f77f0a0e0ae8595b246c4dd6a2ae.htm?searchDepth=1:2 (https://www.hudsonford.com/used/Ford/2004-Ford-Ranger-hudson-wi-5d81f77f0a0e0ae8595b246c4dd6a2ae.htm?searchDepth=1:2)
I'm really happy with my F150 though. It's fun to drive and I love having all of that room.
I'd love to get a F-150. I've also had my eye on the Chevy Colorado, the new body style is gorgeous.
Now I just need to convince my wife to let me buy a truck... :lol
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I'm still amazed that the F150 is the best selling vehicle in the US. Something like one sold every 40 seconds in 2015. How many people actually use them to their capability, rather than commuting to their office job and towing a bass boat twice a year?
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I see F-150s on the highway everyday commuting back and forth into my office park I work in all the time. Most often they are in immaculate condition and look like they have heard seen a hard days work. I think I read somewhere F-150s are the most bought car of millionaries, so clearly not everyone is buying one to haul a trailer or a boat or work a trade.
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I'm still amazed that the F150 is the best selling vehicle in the US. Something like one sold every 40 seconds in 2015. How many people actually use them to their capability, rather than commuting to their office job and towing a bass boat twice a year?
That's because they are the standard government vehicle for pretty much any utility. The town I grew up in had a fleet of about 20 of them. They'd get replaced every 6-10 years. Some had plows and sanders, others were used for landscaping the parks, the police had some, etc.. When every town in the nation buys your product for contracting and work related matters, you're going to have serious numbers. If you took the F-150s purchased with tax payer money out of the equation, the numbers would be nowhere near as high.
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I can 100% honestly say I'm not a millionaire nor a construction worker. :lol I just have always liked trucks and love driving them. I like sitting up high and the space, man the space is awesome. I haul a decent amount of stuff in the summer for our gardens at home. And it's nice for these long Minnesota winters.
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Kids remember what you say.
When I bought my 2007 Honda Ridgeline in 2012 my oldest granddaughter was 6. She commented how she loved my truck. I told her in passing that she could have the truck when she got her permit. Well 5 years later and she still remembers about my passing promise. My wife said that I will have to give up the truck or break her heart.
Damn, I guess that I am obligated.
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Kids remember what you say.
My parents have a hutch in their dining room that they've had since before I was born. When I was 4 or 5 my dad told me he'd give me $2 every time he accidentally left the key out if I returned it to him. I think it was to keep tabs on the key because I liked to play with it. Every holiday he leaves the key out some place, and now 22 years later, I still try to milk him for the $2 every time I find it.
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Kids remember what you say.
My parents have a hutch in their dining room that they've had since before I was born. When I was 4 or 5 my dad told me he'd give me $2 every time he accidentally left the key out if I returned it to him. I think it was to keep tabs on the key because I liked to play with it. Every holiday he leaves the key out some place, and now 22 years later, I still try to milk him for the $2 every time I find it.
:lol
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This can be tied to music too; I just finished most of my car audio install. I put in a new head/radio/amp unit, replaced all six speakers (two tweeters, four 3-ways), and added subwoofer (amp+speaker all-in-one). I need to install a universal adapter to re-enable my steering wheel audio controls, and lastly add a rear camera. I am very pleased, as I have heard minimal distortion if at all at too loud volumes. The subwoofer has been the most welcome part, as I have never had one and certainly is a fun addition. I feel like a 16 year old at times. ;D
Has anyone every replaced car seats? The cushioning on mine are garbage, and I rather go for a faux leather anyway. Throughout my looking, to me it seems there are A) hardly any options, and B) the ones available are way too expensive. Is it better just to get them reupholstered in a different covering, and have someone add better padding?
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I don't know much aboit car seats, but confirm whether or not there are airbags in them before you do anything! Depending on the car, if there was a leather option available, you could probably pull them out of a junker in a yard.
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Man, cops love exaggerating the deeds of bad actors.
https://www.foxnews.com/auto/2016/11/16/oklahoma-speeder-caught-at-208-mph.html
An Oklahoma man was arrested on Saturday after leading police on a 208 mph chase.
Nineteen-year-old Hector Fraire first tripped a radar gun doing 84 mph on the Kilpatrick Turnpike in Oklahoma City, before speeding away as police tried to pull him over.
According to the Oklahoma Highway Patrol, Fraire’s 2011 Ford Mustang was then clocked doing 176 mph and 208 mph, and tried to elude the chase vehicle by turning off his headlights and brake lights.
He finally stopped his car at a red light, dropped his keys out of the window, and was arrested and later charged with reckless driving and felony eluding.
Assuming the kid reprogrammed the mustang to remove the 155 limit, the car would have had to be pretty heavily modified to even hit 176. Certainly a lot of aerodynamic work. There's no chance that he could get that thing up to 208. Two hundred is the rarefied air of Callaway vettes and 911 turbo S. Also, how'd he turn off the tail lights? Did he reach down under the wheel and pull the fuse? Reprogram the CANBus while he was driving? What kind of car is Johnny Law driving that would allow him to keep up? Pork-choppers are far too slow, and the POS Camaros highway patrols always buy certainly aren't going to cut it.
Also, I've driven that turnpike, and it's an exceptional place to drive that fast. He endangered nobody but himself driving at night, honestly. Why bother chasing him at that point? There comes a point where you turn mother's picture to the wall and get out. A chase that goes that fast qualifies.
The reason these sorts of things interest me is because Johnny always likes to come out on top. "He completely lost us and there was nothing we could do about it. Thankfully he gave himself up" doesn't really fit the desired narrative. If you can't make it appear that you bagged him you exaggerate the acts he committed. There's a legendary video in BMW circles of a kid who thoroughly outclassed some highway patrol guys in his dad's E30 M3. It was on one of the "America's greatest pursuits" shows, and that pompous douchebag John Bunnell did everything he could to build the cops up, despite the video portraying them pretty poorly. They finally slowed the video down to a stop to make it look like the kid's "Teutonic hotrod" broke down so they could nab him.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mw3EMKkqO8
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Just playing devil's advocate here.
It said that he was clocked at 176 and 208, not that the cop chasing him was going that fast to keep up. They could have had other cops ahead waiting or acting like an intimidating roadblock that got him on an additional radar gun. But at those speeds, that kid is covering a mile every 15-20 seconds. The responding officers down way would have had to react really quickly (unless they were all already out).
As for the lights being turned off, that's not really uncommon. My old roommate had a beast of a 2002 Trans Am. Got about 4.5mpg and would do a burnout at 90. He threw a bored out LS1 race motor in it and put a 10 bolt rear dif on. He spliced the wires running to his brake lights and ran them to secondary switch hidden in his center console. He could turn them off at will for the sole purpose of out running police.
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If he installed a cutoff switch for the tail lights I commend him for his ingenuity. Not sure why he would have just given up if his car was modified specifically to run from Johnny, though. However, I still call bullshit on the story. The likelihood of Johnny embellishing is far greater than the likelihood of him actually being able to do what they claim.
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Ran out of gas? :lol
I hear you though. Wouldn't be surprised for a second if this got stretched a bunch. I tried running from the police once heading north on Rt. 63. I drove it daily and was certain there was a dirt road a half mile or so ahead that I could turn down. It ended up not existing. I pulled over and let the guy catch up to me.
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Fastest I've ever taken a car was on a straight stretch of Rt 29 in Maple Lawn, on my way to Silver Spring. There's a stop light on the stretch at the top of a hill that lets you see way far down and ahead, so you can get a good scan to see if there are officers clocking or anything. Anyway, when the light went green I decided I was just going to push and see how fast I could go before I either had to slow down or at least felt I had to. I took it up to 131mph before deciding the car felt light enough on its tires and that I didn't want to take anymore chances with my life. Highly exhilirating.
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Ran out of gas? :lol
I hear you though. Wouldn't be surprised for a second if this got stretched a bunch. I tried running from the police once heading north on Rt. 63. I drove it daily and was certain there was a dirt road a half mile or so ahead that I could turn down. It ended up not existing. I pulled over and let the guy catch up to me.
I've lost plenty of cops, but none who had lit me up yet. Generally it's that I see them turn to come after me and I hide myself PDQ. It's actually surprisingly easy to do.
A few years ago I kept a cop from seeing my inspection/registration stickers close up for quite a long while by constantly driving away from him. He was facing me from across an intersection we were both stopped at, and his partner saw my stickers from a remarkable distance. I used a flower delivery van to block me after the light changed. He turned after me and proceeded to try and confirm their expiry. I used other traffic to keep him from getting in front of me for a while. When we came to the next intersection there was a ton of traffic in the middle lane, some traffic in the left lane, and none in the right. He tried to pass me on the left to get at my stickers, and at the last minute I pealed away to the right leaving him completely boxed in as I casually drove off perpendicular to him, laughing my ass off at having schooled him. Some how, some way he pulled some T-1000 shit and wound up back behind me again; I have no idea how he did it. Just as he started to pass me on the right I was going to turn left into a Lowes, but finally decided that I was going to genuinely piss these guys off (and back then Dallas Constables were the biggest maniacs in the county) so I let them catch me. Lot of fun. After he wrote the tickets I asked him who spotted the stickers initially, and offered up a WTG. He was a dick about it.
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Fastest I've ever taken a car was on a straight stretch of Rt 29 in Maple Lawn, on my way to Silver Spring. There's a stop light on the stretch at the top of a hill that lets you see way far down and ahead, so you can get a good scan to see if there are officers clocking or anything. Anyway, when the light went green I decided I was just going to push and see how fast I could go before I either had to slow down or at least felt I had to. I took it up to 131mph before deciding the car felt light enough on its tires and that I didn't want to take anymore chances with my life. Highly exhilirating.
I got my E30 up to 131, which confirmed BMW's numbers. That's as fast as that car will go, and that's partly dependent on grade and wind. I've only gotten my E46 up to 120 or so, but it handled great and still had a lot left in the tank.
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Yeah my 2013 B8.5 S4 took it to 131 easily. The limiter on the car is 155 (which I've removed with a mod chip), but I didn't push it to that. It had plenty left. That needle was still climbing when I decided to back 'er off and come back to Earth. The best part was the suspension was as calm and rigid as when traveling normal speeds. There was no squirreling or shaking. I did feel the car get noticably lighter as I broke 130, a nice flightiness that let you know just how low the upper air pressure was getting on the car. Man, that was fun.
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When I got my reckless driving charge at 18, I got clocked at 122 in my Passat.
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Yet another reason why I do not do that very often, if at all anymore.
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Yeah my 2013 B8.5 S4 took it to 131 easily. The limiter on the car is 155 (which I've removed with a mod chip), but I didn't push it to that. It had plenty left. That needle was still climbing when I decided to back 'er off and come back to Earth. The best part was the suspension was as calm and rigid as when traveling normal speeds. There was no squirreling or shaking. I did feel the car get noticably lighter as I broke 130, a nice flightiness that let you know just how low the upper air pressure was getting on the car. Man, that was fun.
I certainly didn't notice any aero-effects at 120. It honestly felt as if I were doing 60. And in my case that was cruising speed, rather than a "how fast can I push it" thing. I had a car in front of me doing ~125 of so, so I lagged slightly behind him for a while feeling rather safe.
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Yet another reason why I do not do that very often, if at all anymore.
I rarely break 100 these days, if I do it's completely by accident. I typically call it a day around 92 or so.
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Yet another reason why I do not do that very often, if at all anymore.
I rarely break 100 these days, if I do it's completely by accident. I typically call it a day around 92 or so.
Indeed. On my cross-country road trip last month I had 83 or so as my top speed, and that was in 80mph zones. Texas is pretty generous with regards to speeding tickets, but I don't want to find out how the South Dakota Highway Patrol treats them. Besides, I was enough of an interdiction target as it was.
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Yet another reason why I do not do that very often, if at all anymore.
I rarely break 100 these days, if I do it's completely by accident. I typically call it a day around 92 or so.
The only time I hit over 100 is when I'm on my bike on a few long stretches. No one around.
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My car is at the dealership right now with a check engine light on. Turns out it's a bad o2 sensor. They want $660 to swap it out. Is it just me, or is that insane?
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Maybe not insane for a dealership. Those sensors are pretty expensive, about $200 or so last I checked, but nowhere near $600. I've never changed one myself, but it seems the most difficult part is access, since they are typically installed at awkward angles, and possibly a special tool to go around the wire.
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My car is at the dealership right now with a check engine light on. Turns out it's a bad o2 sensor. They want $660 to swap it out. Is it just me, or is that insane?
Dealers charge insanely high labor rates, usually starting around $200/hr. If a local auto shop can do the work (and it's not warranty work), you can save money on labor costs. Also depends on the price of the part - it can't hurt to ask for a breakdown in cost (parts/labor/tax, etc.) to see if they'll give it to you or not.
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Maybe not insane for a dealership. Those sensors are pretty expensive, about $200 or so last I checked, but nowhere near $600. I've never changed one myself, but it seems the most difficult part is access, since they are typically installed at awkward angles, and possibly a special tool to go around the wire.
He said the sensor itself is $320 and the rest is diagnostic and labor. I'm of the opinion that if you're getting the servicing work done, the dealership should wave the diagnostic fee.
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I can't believe I have neglected this thread for nearly a year.
re: Tail lights- My brother had an 86 325e Which he installed a kill switch on the tail lights. He had plenty of incidents where he had to gtfo and away from the police in a hurry (Expired tags). I was going to buy the car from him and get it legal but he sold it before I had the cash to do so.
My car is at the dealership right now with a check engine light on. Turns out it's a bad o2 sensor. They want $660 to swap it out. Is it just me, or is that insane?
You still in the Mini?
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Yep. Still in the Mini.
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I'm so sorry
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It's getting old :( Just crossed 105K miles and still owe $9500 on it.
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O2 sensors are one of the things you really need to get OEM. Aftermarket ones will cause a ton of problems. That said, and OEM but non-factory branded sensor should run about 2 bills or so. The rest is the Stealer's markup. Any knucklehead should be able to install it in half an hour. Most reputable mechanics will apply the diagnostic fee to the labor so long as they do the work. I wouldn't count on any such reasonableness from the stealer.
In the future, Autozone, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, or whatever chain of autoparts store you have up there will check the codes and tell you what's going on for free.
Lastly, go to realOEM.com, type in the last 7 digits of your VIN and search for Lambda probe. That's your sensor. It's very likely the same Seimens unit mine uses, which runs $215. That'll get you the part number and you can shop around from there. At the very least it'll tell you what the BMW name costs when added to a standard part.
And you really need to find an independent mechanic for your car. If it's not a warranty item then assume every single repair will cost half as much than a dealer.
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Yeah, all true, but you're right as rain when it comes to O2 sensors. My son has a GTI that has had a check engine light on for a year now because of an O2 sensor, and we've gone through three of them in that time. Something to do with the wiring of the sensor; finally my son just said "F*** it" and is selling it as-is.
Anyone want a 2011 GTI Royal blue (the special color), stick, 75,000 miles, in excellent condition except for the O2 sensor? (FYI, not selling it because of the O2 sensor; it's a two-door hatchback and with a 3-month old baby, it's not cutting the mustard).
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Yeah, all true, but you're right as rain when it comes to O2 sensors. My son has a GTI that has had a check engine light on for a year now because of an O2 sensor, and we've gone through three of them in that time. Something to do with the wiring of the sensor; finally my son just said "F*** it" and is selling it as-is.
Anyone want a 2011 GTI Royal blue (the special color), stick, 75,000 miles, in excellent condition except for the O2 sensor? (FYI, not selling it because of the O2 sensor; it's a two-door hatchback and with a 3-month old baby, it's not cutting the mustard).
O2 sensors are weird in that plenty of other things will cause them to report bad even if they're fine. It's possible that something upstream is making the O2 data appear bad even though the sensor(s) is fine. In my case the SEL light came on and the codes report both O2 sensors are bad. When they both trip simultaneously that's what you look for. A vacuum leak or a bad MAF sensor can cause the actual air to differ from the MAF's air and therefore there's more or less O2 reported out the ass than what it expects.
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I've had an O2 sensor issue with my Cobalt for years. Took it in once, and they found something to fix but told me it could be any number of other things down the line, based on the codes. Check engine light came back on a day later and I just said "screw it." I'm not spending $300 five times until they figure it out. My state doesn't require inspections and my car runs fine, so I'm not worrying about it.
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O2 sensors are one of the things you really need to get OEM. Aftermarket ones will cause a ton of problems. That said, and OEM but non-factory branded sensor should run about 2 bills or so. The rest is the Stealer's markup. Any knucklehead should be able to install it in half an hour. Most reputable mechanics will apply the diagnostic fee to the labor so long as they do the work. I wouldn't count on any such reasonableness from the stealer.
In the future, Autozone, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, or whatever chain of autoparts store you have up there will check the codes and tell you what's going on for free.
Lastly, go to realOEM.com, type in the last 7 digits of your VIN and search for Lambda probe. That's your sensor. It's very likely the same Seimens unit mine uses, which runs $215. That'll get you the part number and you can shop around from there. At the very least it'll tell you what the BMW name costs when added to a standard part.
And you really need to find an independent mechanic for your car. If it's not a warranty item then assume every single repair will cost half as much than a dealer.
Barto speaks the truth, I replaced my o2 sensors a few months back in my bmw, took a little over an hour and cost $140
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And you really need to find an independent mechanic for your car. If it's not a warranty item then assume every single repair will cost half as much than a dealer.
I've never used a dealer for repair work, however the timing belt is due on my volvo and I am planning on having that done there. A coworker had his timing belt changed on a different model volvo (a different dealer than the one I plan on using), and 3 months later the aux belt failed/dislodged and interfered with the timing belt, requiring replacement of heads, valves etc. (I dont think he needed the whole engine replaced). I don't think you would have much recourse with an independent mechanic in a situation like that. He had the engine repaired for no charge by the dealer after taking the issue to corporate. The standard charge for this job on my car is around $750, not including replacing the water pump.
Another reason I am considering this is that I haven't found a reputable independent volvo mechanic yet, but have twice gone to the dealer for a diagnostic check (not OBD, but their proprietary engine monitoring system). The first time they found no problems, and charged me $20 to do an oil change with my supplied oil and filter. The second time they charged me for the diagnostic check (1 hour of labor, or $145), and offered to apply that cost to the necessary repairs, which I wound up doing myself. Though expensive, I got the feeling in both instances that they were honest and straightforward.
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I had good luck with the Volvo dealer in Cherry Hill, for what it's worth.
The other thing - not easy to do in this day and age of "schedulers" and bullshit - is get to know one of the mechanics. My son works for a Volvo dealership here in Connecticut (he mainly works on Saabs, but also Volvos) and a lot of those guys are specific make/specific model nerds. One guy knows everything about the '98 - '03 Saab 9-3s, or another guy knows the S60's back to front... and outside the dealer they will help you. When I was getting my feet wet with working on a car, I had a '82 320i (it was the E30, first year, I think; it had the inline six engine), and I had to change the tranny; on those cars, there's a special "nut" on the back of the transmission that is big (like 2 1/2", 3") and requires a thin-walled socket with a star pattern (or some shit; I'm going off memory here, bear with me). I had gotten to know a mechanic at the BMW (near you, Chino, in Watertown) named Gene, who had helped me by answering questions and what not, and when I asked him about that, he looked at me (kind of sizing me up) and disappeared, coming back with the socket in question. He handed it to me and said you're in the club now, so don't screw me over. I need that back, but take it and do what you have to do. I thought then and still do now that that is INSANE. That socket then probably cost him $50 or more, and now who knows? I returned it the following weekend, with a coffee and a donut, and while he later moved on (and I lost touch with him), I'll never forget that as long as I live.
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I used to have a great mechanic. He did all the work on my Mazda and Passat when I had them. Whenever I was looking at buying a new (used) car, he'd let me bring it in and throw it on his lift and look at it for no charge. He lived across the street from us and owned a garage in Watertown until he flipped his truck drunk without a seatbelt on. His legs no longer work and he can sometimes move his right arm and wrists. I hadn't needed a mechanic for the last 105K miles as everything was covered under Mini. I needed an oil change the other day and Valvoline wouldn't do it. "Sorry, we don't do Minis. They have proprietary hardware we don't have, and there's something with the batter that makes them a liability for us" the guy says to me. I went to the place my mechanic used to own after Valvoline turned me away, and he said the same thing. Having gone 10,500 miles since my last oil change, I brought it to Mini just to get it done. I didn't want to keep racking up the miles while looking for a mechanic that would take it while also working with my schedule at work.
My check engine light was on so I had them look at that while I was there (almost puked when I saw $140 diagnostic charge on the bill). I'll be getting the o2 sensor work done elsewhere.
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Mini Coopers- The gift that keeps on giving.
I have yet to hear a positive story from anyone who has owned a Mini.
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Mini Coopers- The gift that keeps on giving.
I have yet to hear a positive story from anyone who has owned a Mini.
So far it's cost me less than either my Passat or Mazda3 Hatchback did, and I had it for more than 50k miles longer than either of those. I've had a couple bugs with it here and there, but to be fair, I've beaten the absolute living shit out of it for 105K miles now and it still running great. I'm actually blown away by how good it's been given my driving style and the fact that it's been through five CT winters now.
It should be noted that I have the non-turbo version. The boosted ones do tend to have some issues with the engines.
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My Girlfriend was looking at getting a used Mini a year or so ago. Everyone whom I spoke with who had a Mini told me to run far away. Good to know that they aren't all bad.
If I started making semi decent money, I'd totally invest in one.
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The sport versions are supposed to be an absolute panic to drive. My stepfather bought one just to do The Italian Job all over Dallas. But yeah, surprisingly poor build quality.
@Chino: Didn't you have to have carbon deposits scraped out of that thing like 3 different times? Fouling the plugs and whatnot? That's the sort of thing that should never pop up in a modern, well-designed car. In any case, it seems to suit you well. Glad it's worked out. My first BMW was the cheapest car I ever owned by a long shot, despite driving it every day for 10 years like Beauford T. Justice was chasing me. Sometimes cars with a bad reputation for being costly to own really aren't.
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@Chino: Didn't you have to have carbon deposits scraped out of that thing like 3 different times? Fouling the plugs and whatnot? That's the sort of thing that should never pop up in a modern, well-designed car. In any case, it seems to suit you well. Glad it's worked out. My first BMW was the cheapest car I ever owned by a long shot, despite driving it every day for 10 years like Beauford T. Justice was chasing me. Sometimes cars with a bad reputation for being costly to own really aren't.
I've never had to do that. I had to replace the ignition module (or whatever that thing is that controls spark timing) but that was it. I ran a bottle of that sea foam stuff through it and nothing more.
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@Chino: Didn't you have to have carbon deposits scraped out of that thing like 3 different times? Fouling the plugs and whatnot? That's the sort of thing that should never pop up in a modern, well-designed car. In any case, it seems to suit you well. Glad it's worked out. My first BMW was the cheapest car I ever owned by a long shot, despite driving it every day for 10 years like Beauford T. Justice was chasing me. Sometimes cars with a bad reputation for being costly to own really aren't.
A quick search for "carbon" in this thread suggests that you seafoamed it twice and still had to take it to the dealer when a cylinder crapped out because of carbon buildup on all four spark plugs. Oh, and you also ran though two water pumps in a short period of time.
Not trying to rag on your car here. Like I said, it's a great fit for you and other than those two problems it seems to have worked out quite well. And the water pump thing is all on BMW. They use shitty plastic impellers, for some reason. I'm just thinking that all of that carbon doesn't reflect well on the brand when we're discussing Mini's questionable reliability. There are always exceptions, both good and bad. My boss drove a brand new El Dorado off the lot and had a cylinder crap out in the first 2 months. You just hear horror stories from a lot of mini owners.
I've never had to do that. I had to replace the ignition module (or whatever that thing is that controls spark timing) but that was it. I ran a bottle of that sea foam stuff through it and nothing more.
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My co-worker bought a mini last year. Already had to take it back to the dealer for minor issues twice, the last being the window not going back up. He's also had bad luck with it where two separate people crashed into him from behind :lol Not the cars fault. He's good and knowledgable with cars (way moreso than me) and said before buying it he expected issues. He also bought it new since a used one is almost guaranteed to be a headache. It was really the car his wife wanted, not him, but otherwise he really likes it. Personally, I'd never buy one because I put reliability as a top criteria for a car.
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@Chino: Didn't you have to have carbon deposits scraped out of that thing like 3 different times? Fouling the plugs and whatnot? That's the sort of thing that should never pop up in a modern, well-designed car. In any case, it seems to suit you well. Glad it's worked out. My first BMW was the cheapest car I ever owned by a long shot, despite driving it every day for 10 years like Beauford T. Justice was chasing me. Sometimes cars with a bad reputation for being costly to own really aren't.
A quick search for "carbon" in this thread suggests that you seafoamed it twice and still had to take it to the dealer when a cylinder crapped out because of carbon buildup on all four spark plugs. Oh, and you also ran though two water pumps in a short period of time.
Not trying to rag on your car here. Like I said, it's a great fit for you and other than those two problems it seems to have worked out quite well. And the water pump thing is all on BMW. They use shitty plastic impellers, for some reason. I'm just thinking that all of that carbon doesn't reflect well on the brand when we're discussing Mini's questionable reliability. There are always exceptions, both good and bad. My boss drove a brand new El Dorado off the lot and had a cylinder crap out in the first 2 months. You just hear horror stories from a lot of mini owners.
I've never had to do that. I had to replace the ignition module (or whatever that thing is that controls spark timing) but that was it. I ran a bottle of that sea foam stuff through it and nothing more.
Yeah, I remember thinking it was carbon build up messing up the plugs, but it ended up being the module. I forgot that I had seafoamed it prior to that second time. I never had a cylinder down for the count. I might have thought that was what was wrong, but it ultimately wasn't once mechanics got under the hood. The water pumps were an early issue, yes. The first one shit the bed really early, and I'm convinced the second one wasn't installed correctly as it went in less than 2k miles if I remember correctly. I had plastic impeller issues on my Passat as well. Out of all the hardware and technology on a car, it seems like that part would not cost all that much if manufactured in metal rather than plastic. They must make a lot of money off of waterpump changes.
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My co-worker bought a mini last year. Already had to take it back to the dealer for minor issues twice, the last being the window not going back up. He's also had bad luck with it where two separate people crashed into him from behind :lol Not the cars fault. He's good and knowledgable with cars (way moreso than me) and said before buying it he expected issues. He also bought it new since a used one is almost guaranteed to be a headache. It was really the car his wife wanted, not him, but otherwise he really likes it. Personally, I'd never buy one because I put reliability as a top criteria for a car.
Do you know what model he had? My dad bought a Paceman and had a similar issue with the driver window. There's a pressure switch in the window that can detect if there's something in the windows way when it's rolling up (like a child's face) and it will reverse it if that sensor detect resistance. It was faulty from the factory and the dealer didn't charge him for his first month of having the car.
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I don't know off my head, I'd have to ask. But I think that window issue was known in BMWs and whatnot so very common in these cars, according to him when we last talked about it.
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I don't know off my head, I'd have to ask. But I think that window issue was known in BMWs and whatnot so very common in these cars, according to him when we last talked about it.
It seems like the bulk of the issues Mini has is because of the BMW parts they put on them :lol
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I don't know off my head, I'd have to ask. But I think that window issue was known in BMWs and whatnot so very common in these cars, according to him when we last talked about it.
It seems like the bulk of the issues Mini has is because of the BMW parts they put on them :lol
Not entirely untrue. BMW also likes to use plastic window regulators. In almost any car there are a list of known problems that crop up. The water pumps and the windows have been two of BMW's problems for ages. Tail lights are another biggie. That said, you won't find a better built drivetrain. BMW motors never fail. When a BMW finally gives it up due to age it's usually because the head gasket failed and the rest of the car isn't worth the cost of repairing. Internally the engine will still be aces. Hell, I put pert near 50k on my E36 after the head gasket failed. Every 9 months or so I'd have the cooling system flushed due to the oxidation. Other than that no problems at all. Didn't let it go until water was pretty much pouring out of the side of the engine block.
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my Dad is a retired autobody man and is looking to unload his '62 T-bird. I'll be more than happy to send anyone more info if they so choose....
(https://i.imgur.com/GTcNo8n.jpg)
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Since I've gotten a house with a garage I'm actually enjoying working on my car. I have an e46 BMW and there is work to be done (due to my negligence) but it's not bad to work on with one exception which is taking the engine fan off.
Chino you have a mini, which is essentially a BMW. Do yourself a favor and buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Smartphone/dp/B00QRE0OOA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500122749&sr=8-2&keywords=elm327+wifi
And then buy the engine link app on the app store. You can pull and clear your own codes, which you'll get a lot in the mini, take from a fellow bmw owner.
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I'm with el Barto on the BMW thing. I've had four or six depending on how you count, and with only one exception (the catalytic converter on a 5-Series I had in '01) I've never encountered the so-called "EXPENSIVE REPAIR!" (I mean by that the repair that cost so much you debate why you even have the car). You have to take care of them, and you have to find someone non-dealer you trust, but they are manageable.
Even the X3 I have - not a sports car - is one of the funnest cars I've driven in a while (and don't get me started on my sons 330xi; I've already told him I have first refusal rights if he decides to sell).
I joke with him (he's a mechanic at a Volvo/Saab dealer) that if there is something you don't understand why they do that (on a BMW), you can pretty much guarantee it's you being dumb, not the Germans. They thought of something you didn't and you haven't figured it out yet. :) (There are exceptions to that rule; the water pump is one of them).
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I thought you'd already bought the 330X.
And while BMW does have reasons for everything they do, some of them don't work out very well. Placing the battery where the 50lbs is most needed for balance makes great sense. Placing it under the rear seat so that it takes 2 hours to replace does not.
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My parent's have two BMWs. My mom has a 2013 Z4 and my dad has a 2014 535. I took my mom's Z4 for a spin while visiting yesterday, and it died on me at a red light. I had to get it into park and refire it. Apparently that happened twice last week too. She brought it to the dealer and they said it was her battery. They charged her $400 to replace it and it obviously didn't solve the issue. My father was livid that she authorized that work to begin with, and now he's even more pissed that it wasn't needed at all.
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I thought you'd already bought the 330X.
And while BMW does have reasons for everything they do, some of them don't work out very well. Placing the battery where the 50lbs is most needed for balance makes great sense. Placing it under the rear seat so that it takes 2 hours to replace does not.
No, he decided he wanted to keep it and he sold one of his other cars. I bought a '98 Toyota Tacoma as a second car instead.
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I thought you'd already bought the 330X.
And while BMW does have reasons for everything they do, some of them don't work out very well. Placing the battery where the 50lbs is most needed for balance makes great sense. Placing it under the rear seat so that it takes 2 hours to replace does not.
I couldn't agree more. I had to replace my fuel filter last year. It was the easiest thing ever, popped the back seat out, flat head screw drive and out she came. Took less than 45 minutes.
I have to replace the oil filter gasket because I have a very oil leak. You would think this is easy because the oil filter sits on top of the engine (smart move by BMW). Well I have to remove the fan, the serpentine belt, the alternator, disconnect the power steering pump for a gasket that cost me $5.
That said I love my BMW, it's got it's quirks but it has never left me stranded and while some of the electrical bits act up it's been the most reliable car I own. The i6 is a beast of an engine and as old as it is I still get compliments from time to time and it's fairly well loaded.
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I couldn't agree more. I had to replace my fuel filter last year. It was the easiest thing ever, popped the back seat out, flat head screw drive and out she came. Took less than 45 minutes.
Filter or pump? All of my BMWs had the filters inline underneath the rear, driver's side door. Sounds like you were getting into the tank, as one would to replace a fuel pump. You drive an E46 M, right?
I replaced the oil filter housing gasket on one of my cars, but don't remember which one. Once they start to leak they really leak. I recall that it was annoying but I didn't have to remove the fan. I think the alternator was the only thing I had to remove.
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EB, I never pictures you as a BMW guy.
Perceptions man, perceptions.
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EB, I never pictures you as a BMW guy.
Perceptions man, perceptions.
That's just what I drive when my 83 Chevette is in the shop.
Seriously, BMWs are the perfect blend of performance and comfort, not to mention thoughtfully designed. My kind of cars. They're also durable as hell, which is very important if you're like me and can't afford a car less than 10 years old. If you've got to buy a car built during the Clinton administration, BMW is the only way to go.
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I couldn't agree more. I had to replace my fuel filter last year. It was the easiest thing ever, popped the back seat out, flat head screw drive and out she came. Took less than 45 minutes.
Filter or pump? All of my BMWs had the filters inline underneath the rear, driver's side door. Sounds like you were getting into the tank, as one would to replace a fuel pump. You drive an E46 M, right?
I replaced the oil filter housing gasket on one of my cars, but don't remember which one. Once they start to leak they really leak. I recall that it was annoying but I didn't have to remove the fan. I think the alternator was the only thing I had to remove.
Pump my apologies I hade on too many beers.
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You guys are really selling me on BMW. I've never considered them except when I was in college and coveted the E39 M5. They apparently can be had rather inexpensively these days.
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They are nice cars Jasc. I really want to get an e92 M3, those were some of the best looking M cars
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You guys are really selling me on BMW. I've never considered them except when I was in college and coveted the E39 M5. They apparently can be had rather inexpensively these days.
The E39 can be had relatively inexpensively, but - at least around where I am (the Northeast) - the M version is a little more pricey and a little less common. That's my son's holy grail car at this point.
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I've generally steered clear of M cars simply because it throws my math off. While I can keep a 10 year old BMW on the road very affordably all that changes when you double the cost for parts and everything becomes more fine-tuned. I suppose if I had the money to buy an E90 M in the first place I wouldn't be so concerned about it, but the cost of admission plus the cost of upkeep is prohibitive to me.
Besides, I'd go with an M-Coupe. That's where BMWs return to being "fun."
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Can anyone think of a reason why this listing is $10k-$15K cheaper than anything comparable? Trucks with 50K more miles than this one are selling for $10k more.
https://www.truecar.com/used-cars-for-sale/listing/1FTSW21568EA71764/2008-ford-super-duty-f-250/
2008 Ford Super Duty F-250 4WD Crew Cab 172" XLT
for Sale in Ansonia, CT
23,214 miles
(https://listings.tcimg.net/listings/23992/64/17/1FTSW21568EA71764/PIL22Z4KTIUXGS7GBMUJ765KR4-600.jpg)
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My first reaction is it was hit and repaired.
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I would think the same thing Stadler
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CARFAX says no, though. It did have a catalytic converter problem, but that's it. It was a commercial vehicle for a while, but still...
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CARFAX says no, though. It did have a catalytic converter problem, but that's it. It was a commercial vehicle for a while, but still...
I'm more curious about why it's been serviced 13 times with that little mileage, unless the first owner did their due diligence and brought it in for a checkup every year. It doesn't look like it was beat on. It doesn't have the mounts up front, so whatever it was doing commercially didn't involve a plow. The rear bumper and tow hitch look new and there's next to no wear in the bed.
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So not only is there /r/BMW, and /r/5series, and /r/E39, but there is an /r/E39M5. Also www.m5board.com.
Just a bit of daydreaming thanks to this thread.
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So not only is there /r/BMW, and /r/5series, and /r/E39, but there is an /r/E39M5. Also www.m5board.com.
Just a bit of daydreaming thanks to this thread.
When I bought my first one, circa 98, the online community was a big selling point for me. There's no question that hasn't been answered a dozen times. Every repair has numerous DYIs with pictures and videos. I'm partial to bimmerforums.com, myself, and any problem I've encountered has numerous threads discussing likely causes and remedies. It's really a wonderful resource.
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So not only is there /r/BMW, and /r/5series, and /r/E39, but there is an /r/E39M5. Also www.m5board.com.
Just a bit of daydreaming thanks to this thread.
I'll leave this for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_rjhiIIcX0
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So what are everyone's thoughts on the new Hyundai Veloster N https://jalopnik.com/the-275-horsepower-2019-hyundai-veloster-n-is-ready-to-1822084985?
I'm in the market for a new car as the repair costs for my car are getting higher and higher and I'm tired of spending weekends working on my car. It's hard to get past the 3 door look of the car but it might be a contender. I really wish Hyundai just brought over the i30N. I'm also looking at Focus ST's.
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Just get a Fit.
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So what are everyone's thoughts on the new Hyundai Veloster N https://jalopnik.com/the-275-horsepower-2019-hyundai-veloster-n-is-ready-to-1822084985?
I'm in the market for a new car as the repair costs for my car are getting higher and higher and I'm tired of spending weekends working on my car. It's hard to get past the 3 door look of the car but it might be a contender. I really wish Hyundai just brought over the i30N. I'm also looking at Focus ST's.
Aren't you a BMW guy? I thought you had like an M3 or something, which would explain the high repair costs, but not your interest in a Hyundai.
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I am and I do have an m3 and im over it. The list of things I have repaired in the past year and the things I have to do this year, I just want to let it go.
I originally had a golf and I’ve always liked hatches. I was interested in the st but it looks a bit dated, I like all the features that come with Hyundai and the cost.
I did go look at the bmw line up late last year and I wasn’t really impressed. I want to go look Audi still and check out the A3
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I am and I do have an m3 and im over it. The list of things I have repaired in the past year and the things I have to do this year, I just want to let it go.
I originally had a golf and I’ve always liked hatches. I was interested in the st but it looks a bit dated, I like all the features that come with Hyundai and the cost.
I did go look at the bmw line up late last year and I wasn’t really impressed. I want to go look Audi still and check out the A3
My experience with Audi was hellish. It'll have the same sorts of problems as your M3, but it was built by assholes. Working on them sucks ass.
I have no experience with any Hyundais, but I've yet to find an Asian car that felt as solid as my BMWs. I agree that the new lineups generally suck, which is why my E46 is probably the end of the line for me, but they still feel somewhat substantial. That's why I was surprised that you were looking that direction.
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Don't get me wrong, my e46 has served me a long time but currently I need to:
- Do a suspension refresh
- Fix the drivers door lock (it doesn't unlock with the key or fob, it will lock)
- O2 sensors
- Oil filter gasket replacement (I have a small oil leak, this is a 6 hour job and $3 gasket, thank you Germany)
- Find out why it takes forever to cold start, I've replaced the fuel pump and filter however the pump needs 10 seconds to prime to start, if I just put the key in it'll turn over until the pump builds enough pressure in the fuel bladder
I also want some new creature comforts, my gf has a new sonata for example and the stuff it came standard with is really impressive. I don't think I'd get rid of the m3 (not yet at least) because the trade in value is shit and it'd be a bitch to sell (florida title and registered, I now live in NC).
As for the BMW line-up they feel bloated. I took a test drive in the new 230i for a spin and it was nice but felt lifeless
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Forgot to ask, what Audi did you have?
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I drove a '06 A5 for about a year before passing it along to my mom. Very comfy and pleasant to drive, though boring AF. It just makes even simple repairs a PITA, and it doesn't want to talk to anybody without a VAGCOM, so finding out what's wrong with it usually requires going to an authorized service center.
One of the things that really turned me off of Audi was a problem with the ignition interlock. The sensor that reads the RFID chip in the key is prone to going bad. The sensor is embedded in the steering column and there's no way to replace it other than replace the entire column. Two grand+, and Audi never took any responsibility for it. A whole lot of people got burned on that one. BMW might not have issued a recall, but they'd certainly have put out a TSA and repaired it for free when people's cars turned up dead one morning for no reason. Audi just said "eh, not our problem."
My experience with the oil filter gasket was that it was a snap. Granted, it was an E36, but they certainly look the same. I was a total newb and I think I did it in <2 hours. In my case you yank the alterantor and everything is right there, nice and exposed with plenty of room to work.
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Damnit barto stop telling me things are easy lol, I want a new car.
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I bought one of these this week:
(https://contentinfo.autozonepro.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/blz/42001MI/image/3/)
I was tired of using an open pan and trying to keep it level while pouring into another container. This seemed like a great idea until i pulled the oil plug and the flow totally overwhelmed the shallow tray molded into the side of this container, covering my garage floor in oil. I later poured what oil actually made it into the container into the jug i just emptied into the engine, which i will prob continue doing in the future. The whole outside of this container is covered in oil and now sits on a pile of kitty litter on my garage floor.
I also did my first DIY tire rotation afterwards. I thought i could get away with just pump jack and a stand, but i needed to use both stands to keep the front off the ground the whole time.
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I bought one of these this week:
(https://contentinfo.autozonepro.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/blz/42001MI/image/3/)
I was tired of using an open pan and trying to keep it level while pouring into another container. This seemed like a great idea until i pulled the oil plug and the flow totally overwhelmed the shallow tray molded into the side of this container, covering my garage floor in oil. I later poured what oil actually made it into the container into the jug i just emptied into the engine, which i will prob continue doing in the future. The whole outside of this container is covered in oil and now sits on a pile of kitty litter on my garage floor.
I also did my first DIY tire rotation afterwards. I thought i could get away with just pump jack and a stand, but i needed to use both stands to keep the front off the ground the whole time.
Was the vent clogged or something? Only time I've had oil even think of backing up on one of those was when I forgot to open the vent. If it can breathe the top should drain drown a helluva lot faster than the your car.
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I bought one of these this week:
(https://contentinfo.autozonepro.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/blz/42001MI/image/3/)
I was tired of using an open pan and trying to keep it level while pouring into another container. This seemed like a great idea until i pulled the oil plug and the flow totally overwhelmed the shallow tray molded into the side of this container, covering my garage floor in oil. I later poured what oil actually made it into the container into the jug i just emptied into the engine, which i will prob continue doing in the future. The whole outside of this container is covered in oil and now sits on a pile of kitty litter on my garage floor.
I also did my first DIY tire rotation afterwards. I thought i could get away with just pump jack and a stand, but i needed to use both stands to keep the front off the ground the whole time.
Was the vent clogged or something? Only time I've had oil even think of backing up on one of those was when I forgot to open the vent. If it can breathe the top should drain drown a helluva lot faster than the your car.
My brother has the exact same oil pan and he had the exact same issue. In his case he forgot to open the vent.
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Vent was open. It's only about a 1/16 inch hole. I did have the oil fill cap and filter off which I usually do, so that may be why. It's a Subaru, and the filter sits on top like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/f8jSmmX.jpg)
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Call me a part of the cult, but I'm still all in on Munich. I think the BMW problem is one they've encountered several times over the years; they only lose the plot when they try to be too many things to too many people. Stick with the 3, the 5, and the 7, maybe make a limited run coupe now and again (historically, the 6) and a sport utility vehicle. They bit it bad back a number of years ago when they tried to have the "entry level" sedan, the X1 is the worst of all possibilities (not sporty enough for the sedan crowd, not hip enough for the sportster crowd and not useful enough for the SUV crowd), and so they spread themselves too thin on service and whatnot, and things suffer.
I still drive my '06 E83, and I got a deal on an E90 ('08) for my daughter. Despite being fucked over a little by the guy that sold it to me, I got a good car, and my stepson works (well, worked; he just took a supervisor job at a Volvo dealership) for BMW, so I had a couple of the issues above taken care of for cost (door lock, oil gasket* and O2 sensor). That car drives like a dream, and mine is, well... you know that saying about a woman? Lady on the streets, whore between the sheets? That's kind of my X3. It'll move on the highway (I don't, but I can easily cruise at 90 and the car is solid as a rock) but is a diligent soldier in snow and uncertain terrain. It's not a monster truck or anything like that, but it does what I need it to do, and reliably.
* Oil gasket: not a ten minute job, but not six hours either. I have no doubt I could do it for the two hours that el Barto said. Not everything on that engine is like that, but that one isn't too bad.
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I know I've driven a couple of the newer 3 series when they were offered as loaners and I thought they really sucked. I get the idea that the non-M 3s are chick cars. They're cute and get great mileage. There's just no fun in driving them. Like Stadler said, they're trying to be all things to all people, and in doing so they're building each model for a specific niche. Sadly, I don't seem to be in one of hose niches. I can't afford an M and the 3s I've gotten used to are no longer geared toward folk like us.
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Obama helped introduce the US to the disposable car. They aren't made like they used to be! Increase new car sales, increase tax revenue, stimulate the new car economy with cash for clunkers. Many stout vehicles made it to an early grave and here we have a lot of poor quality vehicles being built and ending up being recycled very quickly. The fact that they are building in so many distractions and autonomy at the same time is confusing to say the least. The automobile industry is going through some challenges adapting as quickly as they need to so right now is a bizarre time to buy a new car.
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Obama helped introduce the US to the disposable car. They aren't made like they used to be! Increase new car sales, increase tax revenue, stimulate the new car economy with cash for clunkers. Many stout vehicles made it to an early grave and here we have a lot of poor quality vehicles being built and ending up being recycled very quickly. The fact that they are building in so many distractions and autonomy at the same time is confusing to say the least. The automobile industry is going through some challenges adapting as quickly as they need to so right now is a bizarre time to buy a new car.
I'd attribute it more to the shift away from ownership to leasing. Also, Americans don't want to drive old-ass cars anymore. "No bluetooth!!! Fuck that."
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Obama helped introduce the US to the disposable car. They aren't made like they used to be! Increase new car sales, increase tax revenue, stimulate the new car economy with cash for clunkers. Many stout vehicles made it to an early grave and here we have a lot of poor quality vehicles being built and ending up being recycled very quickly. The fact that they are building in so many distractions and autonomy at the same time is confusing to say the least. The automobile industry is going through some challenges adapting as quickly as they need to so right now is a bizarre time to buy a new car.
I'd attribute it more to the shift away from ownership to leasing. Also, Americans don't want to drive old-ass cars anymore. "No bluetooth!!! Fuck that."
To that point: my '06 was cutting edge at the time. I have a Sirius radio module in the car (but no pause, rewind or ff functionality) and my Bluetooth is ONLY for phone operation. Thus I can't play music from my phone and (as of yet*) I can't play my iPod in the car. I have two cables from the backseat to charge my iPhone (personal cell) and Samsung (work phone). My stepson brought home a new Volvo for my wife (his mom) to test drive, and it automatically hooks to your phone, prioritizes your contact list and music files, and has a built-in contact charger in the armrest for Samsung phones. I'm pretty sure the car will automatically flood the cabin with patchouli if the Dead, Phish, DMB or Widespread Panic is played, though I haven't tested that yet.
* el Barto: Do you know anyone that knows how to program the radio unit (in mine, it's a Blaupunkt Business CD); I should be able to plug an aux cord AND the Sirius into the back, but when I plug in the wires it's not "seeing" the aux input. I have talked with a guy at the dealership - I know more than he does about the system, sad to say - and a guy from the forums - I go to Bimmerfest - who was kind enough to actually get on the phone with me and walk me through the pin placement, and yet it doesn't work. We could only conclude that the radio itself might require reprogramming to accept the aux in signal.
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I'm pretty sure the car will automatically flood the cabin with patchouli if the Dead, Phish, DMB or Widespread Panic is played, though I haven't tested that yet.
:rollin
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Obama helped introduce the US to the disposable car. They aren't made like they used to be! Increase new car sales, increase tax revenue, stimulate the new car economy with cash for clunkers. Many stout vehicles made it to an early grave and here we have a lot of poor quality vehicles being built and ending up being recycled very quickly. The fact that they are building in so many distractions and autonomy at the same time is confusing to say the least. The automobile industry is going through some challenges adapting as quickly as they need to so right now is a bizarre time to buy a new car.
I'd attribute it more to the shift away from ownership to leasing. Also, Americans don't want to drive old-ass cars anymore. "No bluetooth!!! Fuck that."
To that point: my '06 was cutting edge at the time. I have a Sirius radio module in the car (but no pause, rewind or ff functionality) and my Bluetooth is ONLY for phone operation. Thus I can't play music from my phone and (as of yet*) I can't play my iPod in the car. I have two cables from the backseat to charge my iPhone (personal cell) and Samsung (work phone). My stepson brought home a new Volvo for my wife (his mom) to test drive, and it automatically hooks to your phone, prioritizes your contact list and music files, and has a built-in contact charger in the armrest for Samsung phones. I'm pretty sure the car will automatically flood the cabin with patchouli if the Dead, Phish, DMB or Widespread Panic is played, though I haven't tested that yet.
* el Barto: Do you know anyone that knows how to program the radio unit (in mine, it's a Blaupunkt Business CD); I should be able to plug an aux cord AND the Sirius into the back, but when I plug in the wires it's not "seeing" the aux input. I have talked with a guy at the dealership - I know more than he does about the system, sad to say - and a guy from the forums - I go to Bimmerfest - who was kind enough to actually get on the phone with me and walk me through the pin placement, and yet it doesn't work. We could only conclude that the radio itself might require reprogramming to accept the aux in signal.
Mine was a straight plug-n-play. Like you the dealership merely said "can't be done," so I did my research and came back the next day with a part number for him to order. Got the cable, plugged it in, had AUX. There was no programming. It just scrolls through the sources tuner-CD-AUX.
I'm guessing you have the same head unit I do:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDY3WDgwMA==/z/XjIAAOxycmBS-Bxf/$_57.JPG)
I know there are two 10-pin sockets back there. One is for the CD changer and the other is "sound system." If I had to take a guess what's up with yours, it'd be that Sirius uses the sound system plug, which leaves the CD changer plug for you and the two are pinned very differently.
(https://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleries/0/45/145/47898132/business-cd-steckerbelegung-5424700878571917169.jpg)
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Exactly the same head.
I had the wiring diagram. Bluetooth uses the "Sound System" jack, and the Sirius goes into the "CD-Changer" jack. That leaves the Aux out in the cold. I should be able to pull the wires from the Aux plug and insert them into the plug for the Sirius (they are not the same slots) but it doesn't seem to work. Official word from the dealer is "can't have both", but that doesn't jive for some of the people that seem to know more about the systems. Problem is, it DOES register the "Aux" input on the radio when I have those wires plugged in, which it shouldn't do, it just doesn't play any sound.
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Were it me I'd try to piggyback it on the BT side since that's where the AUX input normally resides, rather than the CD Changer side. In any case, have you tried yanking the BT cable and seeing if the AUX dongle works by itself, not piggybacked?
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Were it me I'd try to piggyback it on the BT side since that's where the AUX input normally resides, rather than the CD Changer side. In any case, have you tried yanking the BT cable and seeing if the AUX dongle works by itself, not piggybacked?
Yes, and it does. I go back and forth on that, and I'm actually thinking about bailing on the Bluetooth, because honestly, I rarely use it. I kept it because my daughter sometimes drives that car, and I don't want her fucking with her phone while driving. I'd rather her use the handsfree calling.
EDIT: I might have had it backwards; I might have plugged in the wires to the BT side. It was over the summer, so I don't remember, but I think you might be right.
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Obama helped introduce the US to the disposable car. They aren't made like they used to be! Increase new car sales, increase tax revenue, stimulate the new car economy with cash for clunkers. Many stout vehicles made it to an early grave and here we have a lot of poor quality vehicles being built and ending up being recycled very quickly. The fact that they are building in so many distractions and autonomy at the same time is confusing to say the least. The automobile industry is going through some challenges adapting as quickly as they need to so right now is a bizarre time to buy a new car.
I'd attribute it more to the shift away from ownership to leasing. Also, Americans don't want to drive old-ass cars anymore. "No bluetooth!!! Fuck that."
To that point: my '06 was cutting edge at the time. I have a Sirius radio module in the car (but no pause, rewind or ff functionality) and my Bluetooth is ONLY for phone operation. Thus I can't play music from my phone and (as of yet*) I can't play my iPod in the car. I have two cables from the backseat to charge my iPhone (personal cell) and Samsung (work phone). My stepson brought home a new Volvo for my wife (his mom) to test drive, and it automatically hooks to your phone, prioritizes your contact list and music files, and has a built-in contact charger in the armrest for Samsung phones. I'm pretty sure the car will automatically flood the cabin with patchouli if the Dead, Phish, DMB or Widespread Panic is played, though I haven't tested that yet.
* el Barto: Do you know anyone that knows how to program the radio unit (in mine, it's a Blaupunkt Business CD); I should be able to plug an aux cord AND the Sirius into the back, but when I plug in the wires it's not "seeing" the aux input. I have talked with a guy at the dealership - I know more than he does about the system, sad to say - and a guy from the forums - I go to Bimmerfest - who was kind enough to actually get on the phone with me and walk me through the pin placement, and yet it doesn't work. We could only conclude that the radio itself might require reprogramming to accept the aux in signal.
Mine was a straight plug-n-play. Like you the dealership merely said "can't be done," so I did my research and came back the next day with a part number for him to order. Got the cable, plugged it in, had AUX. There was no programming. It just scrolls through the sources tuner-CD-AUX.
I'm guessing you have the same head unit I do:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDY3WDgwMA==/z/XjIAAOxycmBS-Bxf/$_57.JPG)
I know there are two 10-pin sockets back there. One is for the CD changer and the other is "sound system." If I had to take a guess what's up with yours, it'd be that Sirius uses the sound system plug, which leaves the CD changer plug for you and the two are pinned very differently.
(https://data.motor-talk.de/data/galleries/0/45/145/47898132/business-cd-steckerbelegung-5424700878571917169.jpg)
I have pretty good iphone integration with my car. I bought, and I can't remember the name of it but I'll look tomorrow morning, a unit that plugs into the cd changer in the trunk. I ran the wire through the rear seats and into the center console and it'll play anything off my iphone 7 or ipod. Steering wheel controls work, and the stock headunit can sort through folders, albums, whatever and display the song - artist - album.
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As a note the last really fun BMW I drove was the 135i. My buddy worked as a sales guy at a BMW dealership a few years ago and I'd come in to test drive some cars for fun. We took the 135 out and it was a blast. It was a a convertible so top down, in florida, with a beautiful exhaust note was some of the most fun I've had in any BMW. It was nimble and had a ton of horsepower. When they were new I never gave them a second glance but now I wish I could've gone back in time and gotten it.
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Also, Americans don't want to drive old-ass cars anymore. "No bluetooth!!! Fuck that."
I love driving my old school old-ass rides more than anything! They all have the amenities too, touch screen, bluetooth, navigation, backup camera, kick ass interior and sound. Babes love em too
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1q9VJnRJ1tyXdbVDFroJUwJShc9Vc_N5S)
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Also, Americans don't want to drive old-ass cars anymore. "No bluetooth!!! Fuck that."
I love driving my old school old-ass rides more than anything! They all have the amenities too, touch screen, bluetooth, navigation, backup camera, kick ass interior and sound. Babes love em too
(https://drive.google.com/uc?id=1q9VJnRJ1tyXdbVDFroJUwJShc9Vc_N5S)
I'd love to drive older cars around, but I'm too nervous in them from a reliability standpoint. I drive 500-600 miles a week. I need something that I can have confidence in and trust that it's not going to constantly die on me.
Also, CT can be a bitch on old cars. Winter does them no good.
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My boss has a fondness for old T-birds. He showed up driving a ~62 or so one morning that he'd just bought. That fondness lasted about 1 month. And this from a guy who's daily commute is 6 miles round trip. Jumped right back into a leased El Dorado.
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Coworker of mine left the business a couple weeks ago after being here 12 years (body shop). Got sick of working on modern cars and all the new technology (we just bought an aluminum welding station because stupid manufacturers are going to stupid aluminum now, and we just bought a plastic welder, and...). More and more sensors keep getting thrown in there, especially in bumpers. Unplug one thing to change a light, sets off 10 error codes.
He has his own operation at home of course, so that's what he's doing now. Working on and restoring old cars (I'm talking OLD, back to the 30s), is now taking in jobs from all over the country. Then he flips 'em when he's finished. Dude goes through cars more often than I go through socks, literally! I don't really care about cars but I totally understand why he enjoys the old stuff so much. Modern cars suck. I've been sanding parts here for 10 years and yesterday I spent 4 hours scuffing a bumper cover with the hardest primer I've EVER dealt with. Wet sand, scuff with abrasive gel, DA... fucker looked like I had barely scuffed it after an hour. Plastic sucks :)
Story: We've restored a couple old cars in the past but never again, way too much of a headache (and we're not even a restoration shop, anyway). Did a 76 Trans Am once, and a 1959 Chevy Biscayne. Had the Biscayne in the shop for 4 years because the guy was stingy and didn't want to fork over the money we had put into finding all the rare parts and restoring the whole damn thing... so one day he finally gives in and he picks it up and less than 40 minutes later forgot to put it in park all the way and it rolled into a fence. Haha.
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In March 2017 I leased a Ford Fusion Energi, which is a plug-in Hybrid and I absolutely love it. For financial reasons I'll likely finance it at the end of the lease, but a year or two into payments I'd like to switch over to something all electric. So far the Bolt, Leaf (which will be getting a big range increase in 2019), and eventually the Model 3 will all be great options, but I have reservations about all of them. Will be following this general segment of things closely over the next few years.
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So what are everyone's thoughts on the new Hyundai Veloster N https://jalopnik.com/the-275-horsepower-2019-hyundai-veloster-n-is-ready-to-1822084985?
I'm in the market for a new car as the repair costs for my car are getting higher and higher and I'm tired of spending weekends working on my car. It's hard to get past the 3 door look of the car but it might be a contender. I really wish Hyundai just brought over the i30N. I'm also looking at Focus ST's.
That's got some power to it. I can only say I've rented Velosters in the past on business trips and I thought they were terrible, but they were also the cheap low powered ones. I'm sure this one is much more fun. Granted, I also am not a hatchback fan nor am I a car guy, so my opinion shouldn't mean much.
I think 2018 is the year I get a new car. My 2010 Civic runs well still with 135k miles, but cosmetically, it is starting to fall apart to the point that I am not really wanting to throw money into it. I would really like something with a little more power to it, but also keep that low key image. I only once got pulled over in this car (for something that was a trap and very obvious and standing out of me) and I think the low keyness of a civic really helps when I am flying on the highway amongst the sporty cars. I could see myself going with a V6 Accord coupe for the next round. But I am not totally sure if I'd want to sell my Civic or keep it as a spare car since the guts are still solid and I don't expect to get much for it since it doesn't look like it's in good shape.
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In March 2017 I leased a Ford Fusion Energi, which is a plug-in Hybrid and I absolutely love it. For financial reasons I'll likely finance it at the end of the lease, but a year or two into payments I'd like to switch over to something all electric. So far the Bolt, Leaf (which will be getting a big range increase in 2019), and eventually the Model 3 will all be great options, but I have reservations about all of them. Will be following this general segment of things closely over the next few years.
Even though I don't think it's a great looking car I'm a big fan of the Bolt. If you haven't, check out Doug Demuro's video on the Bolt on Youtube.
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In March 2017 I leased a Ford Fusion Energi, which is a plug-in Hybrid and I absolutely love it. For financial reasons I'll likely finance it at the end of the lease, but a year or two into payments I'd like to switch over to something all electric. So far the Bolt, Leaf (which will be getting a big range increase in 2019), and eventually the Model 3 will all be great options, but I have reservations about all of them. Will be following this general segment of things closely over the next few years.
Even though I don't think it's a great looking car I'm a big fan of the Bolt. If you haven't, check out Doug Demuro's video on the Bolt on Youtube.
Will do. In that same vein, I think the new Honda Clarity Plug-In seems to be an Accord like vehicle (which I love, even though I've never owned), but I think the styling on the back end will kill it for some people.
And FWIW, my two current big strikes against the Bolt are lack of power seats (with memory settings), and lack of Adaptive Cruise Control.
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Of course after the Bolt video from Doug the Model 3 video was recommended, and... WAAAAAAANNNNNNTTTT.
I currently drive over 20,000 miles a year and have no doubt I'd get used to the screen setup in the Model 3, especially as the controls will be refined by the time I'd ever be driving one, so it really comes down to price with that car.
Yeah, it's a $35k base, but tack on 1k for color option, 5k to get the options package, 5k for the enhanced autopilot, and 1k for destination and realistically, before even factoring in a desire for long range or AWD, you're looking at 47k for the car. Then the kick in the nuts is the tax credit will be gone at that point. So it'll be 47k for the Model 3 or likely under 35k after credits for the fully loaded Bolt or Leaf. That's a big gap.
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I thought autopilot came standard on the base model 3?
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I thought autopilot came standard on the base model 3?
Yes and no, it does have all the sensors and some minor capabilities, but to really be anything worthwhile you're looking to get enhanced autopilot.
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Yesterday my gf and I went out to lunch and we were discussing what I was going to get as a next car. There was a ford dealership down the rode from where we were eating so I said lets stop by. I ended up taking the new 2018 Mustang GT for a spin.
Holy shit the thing is fast and a lot of fun. I know I said I wanted the Veloster N, and I will still look at it when the time comes but I think I may pick one of these up at the end of the years. It's a bit more than I wanted to pay but not by much. I never really cared for mustangs but after the redesign in 2014 I thought they looked pretty good, we ended up having one as a rental a few years back and it was a ton of fun (it was the ecoboost) but this thing is a different beast, it looks sharper and drives incredibly well.
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I hear good things about the newer mustangs and the price point per power is pretty solid. I'll have a rental when I road trip through Florida in a couple months, I'm sure it'll be the ecoboost though, but at least I'll get a good amount of experience with it.
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So I checked all over my state's DMV page for this, but its still ambitious.
Anybody know the process if I were to buy a vehicle from a private seller in a state that I don't reside? My thought is the seller signs the title over to me and I take the vehicle back with me. Then I go to my state's dmv and figure out the rest of the paperwork there.
I'm basically just trying to confirm what I am doing after I agree to buy. I know that if I did it from a dealer, they would just issue temp tags, but the private selling is definitely not doing that.
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So I checked all over my state's DMV page for this, but its still ambitious.
Anybody know the process if I were to buy a vehicle from a private seller in a state that I don't reside? My thought is the seller signs the title over to me and I take the vehicle back with me. Then I go to my state's dmv and figure out the rest of the paperwork there.
I'm basically just trying to confirm what I am doing after I agree to buy. I know that if I did it from a dealer, they would just issue temp tags, but the private selling is definitely not doing that.
Not sure about inter-state travel, but when I was a kid and my dad was buying used cars fairly often (he'd buy a convertible and work on it, then sell it and buy another to tinker with), he'd just take the license plates off of one of our other cars and put them on the used car for the ride home so he wasn't driving a vehicle without plates. Once he got the car home, then he'd handle getting new license plates for it.
If he were ever stopped, he'd have the paperwork with him showing that he just bought it from a private seller and was only trying to get it home. Though it was certainly a shorter ride from suburb to suburb than crossing state lines.
You could always rent a truck/trailer or tow it to transport it as well.
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I’d recommend against swapping plates on your car for any distance. If a cop runs your plate and you have a different car and he decides to be a dick you can pay some serious fines for driving an uninsured unregistered car.
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Well yes. For a 15 minute jaunt from suburb to suburb, it was probably an acceptable risk for him. For traveling a considerable distance between states, the risk is exponentially greater.
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So I checked all over my state's DMV page for this, but its still ambitious.
Anybody know the process if I were to buy a vehicle from a private seller in a state that I don't reside? My thought is the seller signs the title over to me and I take the vehicle back with me. Then I go to my state's dmv and figure out the rest of the paperwork there.
I'm basically just trying to confirm what I am doing after I agree to buy. I know that if I did it from a dealer, they would just issue temp tags, but the private selling is definitely not doing that.
Not sure about inter-state travel, but when I was a kid and my dad was buying used cars fairly often (he'd buy a convertible and work on it, then sell it and buy another to tinker with), he'd just take the license plates off of one of our other cars and put them on the used car for the ride home so he wasn't driving a vehicle without plates. Once he got the car home, then he'd handle getting new license plates for it.
If he were ever stopped, he'd have the paperwork with him showing that he just bought it from a private seller and was only trying to get it home. Though it was certainly a shorter ride from suburb to suburb than crossing state lines.
You could always rent a truck/trailer or tow it to transport it as well.
I can tell you from experience that if you live in Connecticut (like my son and I do) and buy a car in Massachusetts (like my son did) and drive it back and get pulled over (like my son did) you get a ticket with a good size fine to it. I'm pretty sure you have to get a form from the DMV in that case (I don't remember; but it's on the CT DMV site, I know that).
Might be worth a trip to the DMV info desk. I wouldn't fuck around with that stuff, personally. It's not that you'll see jail time, but it's all big pain in the ass if it goes sideways.
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That is good thinking.
The good news is its actually a motorcycle I'm buying and my step dad wants to just put in the back of his truck, so we should be good.
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So I checked all over my state's DMV page for this, but its still ambitious.
Anybody know the process if I were to buy a vehicle from a private seller in a state that I don't reside? My thought is the seller signs the title over to me and I take the vehicle back with me. Then I go to my state's dmv and figure out the rest of the paperwork there.
I'm basically just trying to confirm what I am doing after I agree to buy. I know that if I did it from a dealer, they would just issue temp tags, but the private selling is definitely not doing that.
Not sure about inter-state travel, but when I was a kid and my dad was buying used cars fairly often (he'd buy a convertible and work on it, then sell it and buy another to tinker with), he'd just take the license plates off of one of our other cars and put them on the used car for the ride home so he wasn't driving a vehicle without plates. Once he got the car home, then he'd handle getting new license plates for it.
If he were ever stopped, he'd have the paperwork with him showing that he just bought it from a private seller and was only trying to get it home. Though it was certainly a shorter ride from suburb to suburb than crossing state lines.
You could always rent a truck/trailer or tow it to transport it as well.
I can tell you from experience that if you live in Connecticut (like my son and I do) and buy a car in Massachusetts (like my son did) and drive it back and get pulled over (like my son did) you get a ticket with a good size fine to it. I'm pretty sure you have to get a form from the DMV in that case (I don't remember; but it's on the CT DMV site, I know that).
Might be worth a trip to the DMV info desk. I wouldn't fuck around with that stuff, personally. It's not that you'll see jail time, but it's all big pain in the ass if it goes sideways.
A ticket for what? What part of driving a care you just purchased before handling TTL is illegal? As a rule you have something like 14 days to get all of that taken care of.
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Ok, I found a bike in my own state, and its easy peasy in PA. We just go to the auto tag place, they handle everything. I just sign on the dotted line and everything is transferred.
But on to the next question. Private seller. When do I exchange the cash? After the title transfer right?
Also, I am bringing someone with me, so I won't be alone
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So I checked all over my state's DMV page for this, but its still ambitious.
Anybody know the process if I were to buy a vehicle from a private seller in a state that I don't reside? My thought is the seller signs the title over to me and I take the vehicle back with me. Then I go to my state's dmv and figure out the rest of the paperwork there.
I'm basically just trying to confirm what I am doing after I agree to buy. I know that if I did it from a dealer, they would just issue temp tags, but the private selling is definitely not doing that.
Not sure about inter-state travel, but when I was a kid and my dad was buying used cars fairly often (he'd buy a convertible and work on it, then sell it and buy another to tinker with), he'd just take the license plates off of one of our other cars and put them on the used car for the ride home so he wasn't driving a vehicle without plates. Once he got the car home, then he'd handle getting new license plates for it.
If he were ever stopped, he'd have the paperwork with him showing that he just bought it from a private seller and was only trying to get it home. Though it was certainly a shorter ride from suburb to suburb than crossing state lines.
You could always rent a truck/trailer or tow it to transport it as well.
I can tell you from experience that if you live in Connecticut (like my son and I do) and buy a car in Massachusetts (like my son did) and drive it back and get pulled over (like my son did) you get a ticket with a good size fine to it. I'm pretty sure you have to get a form from the DMV in that case (I don't remember; but it's on the CT DMV site, I know that).
Might be worth a trip to the DMV info desk. I wouldn't fuck around with that stuff, personally. It's not that you'll see jail time, but it's all big pain in the ass if it goes sideways.
A ticket for what? What part of driving a care you just purchased before handling TTL is illegal? As a rule you have something like 14 days to get all of that taken care of.
I'll ask my son when he gets here in about an hour; it was something like driving without a valid reg; it's something unique to Mass; you're right, in CT you have a grace period, where they don't bust your stones (but they really do when you push the grace period). This was odd, and between you and me, I'm not ruling out a "mouthy" 22 year old, or a cop looking to lay down some law.
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I think it's time to replace the front struts on my 2007 Volvo V50. There is quite a bit of rattling coming from the front end, however it's hard to determine if its the struts/mounts, or something else. Last time I was in there replacing the control arms, I checked the steering linkage and sway bars, and everything seemed tight. Dealer says they are shot, too (of course).
I was under the hood yesterday after changing the oil and noticed one of the struts was making a squishing noise when I bounced the car up and down. It didn't continue to bounce like a car with bad struts would, it just returned to the original height reasonably smoothly. Even if they aren't totally shot, the car has 108,000 miles so they might as well be replaced anyway.
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I think it's time to replace the front struts on my 2007 Volvo V50. There is quite a bit of rattling coming from the front end, however it's hard to determine if its the struts/mounts, or something else. Last time I was in there replacing the control arms, I checked the steering linkage and sway bars, and everything seemed tight. Dealer says they are shot, too (of course).
I was under the hood yesterday after changing the oil and noticed one of the struts was making a squishing noise when I bounced the car up and down. It didn't continue to bounce like a car with bad struts would, it just returned to the original height reasonably smoothly. Even if they aren't totally shot, the car has 108,000 miles so they might as well be replaced anyway.
Suspension components are one thing I never bother trying to figure out on my own. It's all just too convoluted. Never trust a dealer to shoot straight with you about anything. They want to turn any used car into a new one. Any competent mechanic can get the car off the ground, spend 3 minutes with a flashlight and tell you exactly where your front end stands, and more importantly, point out to you what components are failing and how. Hearing that I need new bushing for the Heizenburg compensater doesn't tell me anything. Showing me a warn through rubber bushing that connects this to that tells me a great deal.
When I bought my first BMW I took it to a dealer because it was running a little bit rough. Like very minor. They kept it for two days, did a service II, and handed me a list of repairs that included the head gasket, the power steering rack, and the radiator. Easily $5k+. I tightened the temp sensor in the side of the radiator which leaked a little under pressure. Then I drove it like the Bandit for 10 years and 150k miles without a single problem from the head gasket, the power steering rack, or the radiator. Not a damn thing wrong with any of them.
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I hit 120,000 miles on my Mini this morning. I'm torn on what to do with the thing and I still owe $4800 on it ::).
It still bangs like a champ, but it's a pain in the ass owning a home and having that as my primary vehicle. I want a crew cab pickup truck. I want something that I can just throw crap in the back of without having to worry about destroying the inside of an SUV. However, I'm still going to have to commute 80+ miles a day. Part of me wants to dump the Mini and buy a Toyota Tacoma with 50k-60k miles on it, but then the other part of me wants to keep the Mini and buy a Toyota Tundra with 150Kish miles and just use it when needed.
The only two big ticket items on the Mini that might cost me a good chunk of change in the future are the clutch and the timing chain. Anything else that would normally go in the next 20K miles or so was replaced a few months ago. The Mini also needs new struts in the rear, and a brake job and new tires will probably be needed in the next three months.
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Suspension components are one thing I never bother trying to figure out on my own. It's all just too convoluted.
I LITERALLY had that same conversation with my step son - who is a licensed mechanic - on Saturday. EXACTLY.
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I hit 120,000 miles on my Mini this morning. I'm torn on what to do with the thing and I still owe $4800 on it ::).
It still bangs like a champ, but it's a pain in the ass owning a home and having that as my primary vehicle. I want a crew cab pickup truck. I want something that I can just throw crap in the back of without having to worry about destroying the inside of an SUV. However, I'm still going to have to commute 80+ miles a day. Part of me wants to dump the Mini and buy a Toyota Tacoma with 50k-60k miles on it, but then the other part of me wants to keep the Mini and buy a Toyota Tundra with 150Kish miles and just use it when needed.
The only two big ticket items on the Mini that might cost me a good chunk of change in the future are the clutch and the timing chain. Anything else that would normally go in the next 20K miles or so was replaced a few months ago. The Mini also needs new struts in the rear, and a brake job and new tires will probably be needed in the next three months.
Dude, same boat. I have kids, too, though, which is a wrinkle. I had a 2006 BMW X3, 115,000, and decided to keep it and bought a '98 Taco with 175k on it for $1500 cash. It's a work truck, has some rash around the rear wheel wells, and I'm still trying to fix the emergency break, but it's all I need at this point.
I will say, though, Tacos are tough; if they're cheap, they almost certainly have frame rot; that was a chronic problem, and in fact, they recalled (and scrapped) a ton of them. They are still quality trucks - my brother and I have had four of them now, and every one cleared 200k (one broke 300, and I'm counting my current one, even though I'm still at 180 now; I should get there). Despite the frame issue, they hold value; my truck books at $4K.
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Any competent mechanic can get the car off the ground, spend 3 minutes with a flashlight and tell you exactly where your front end stands, and more importantly, point out to you what components are failing and how.
I've hesitated to bring it to a garage without intending to give them the work. I suppose any decent place should be totally cool with me throwing them a few bucks for their time, though.
When I bought my first BMW I took it to a dealer because it was running a little bit rough. Like very minor. They kept it for two days, did a service II, and handed me a list of repairs that included the head gasket, the power steering rack, and the radiator. Easily $5k+. I tightened the temp sensor in the side of the radiator which leaked a little under pressure. Then I drove it like the Bandit for 10 years and 150k miles without a single problem from the head gasket, the power steering rack, or the radiator. Not a damn thing wrong with any of them.
Yeah, this was one item on their $5k list of recommended repairs when i brought it in, which included suspension arms, struts, ac compressor, and regular 75k mile service (whatever that was). I brought it in so they could check the computer codes (proprietary, not the OBD) because the engine was momentarily losing power after starting in hot weather. They had nothing to say about the engine, but they tallied up $5k in other stuff pretty quickly.
Engine power thing is out of sight out of mind since the end of the summer, but it will be back soon.
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I hit 120,000 miles on my Mini this morning. I'm torn on what to do with the thing and I still owe $4800 on it ::).
It still bangs like a champ, but it's a pain in the ass owning a home and having that as my primary vehicle. I want a crew cab pickup truck. I want something that I can just throw crap in the back of without having to worry about destroying the inside of an SUV. However, I'm still going to have to commute 80+ miles a day. Part of me wants to dump the Mini and buy a Toyota Tacoma with 50k-60k miles on it, but then the other part of me wants to keep the Mini and buy a Toyota Tundra with 150Kish miles and just use it when needed.
The only two big ticket items on the Mini that might cost me a good chunk of change in the future are the clutch and the timing chain. Anything else that would normally go in the next 20K miles or so was replaced a few months ago. The Mini also needs new struts in the rear, and a brake job and new tires will probably be needed in the next three months.
Dude, same boat. I have kids, too, though, which is a wrinkle. I had a 2006 BMW X3, 115,000, and decided to keep it and bought a '98 Taco with 175k on it for $1500 cash. It's a work truck, has some rash around the rear wheel wells, and I'm still trying to fix the emergency break, but it's all I need at this point.
I will say, though, Tacos are tough; if they're cheap, they almost certainly have frame rot; that was a chronic problem, and in fact, they recalled (and scrapped) a ton of them. They are still quality trucks - my brother and I have had four of them now, and every one cleared 200k (one broke 300, and I'm counting my current one, even though I'm still at 180 now; I should get there). Despite the frame issue, they hold value; my truck books at $4K.
It amazes me how well the Tacomas hold their value. They're actually more expensive than a Tundra in a lot of instances when looking for a used on. My guess is that there aren't a whole lot of options in the used mid-sized pickup market. Many of the other truck makers did away with the mid-sized trucks for a few years. Whereas in the full-sized market, the Tundra has to compete with the F150, F250, and F350, the Chevy 1500, 2500, and 3500, the Dodge Ram 1500, 2500, and 3500, and the Nissan Titan.
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Any competent mechanic can get the car off the ground, spend 3 minutes with a flashlight and tell you exactly where your front end stands, and more importantly, point out to you what components are failing and how.
I've hesitated to bring it to a garage without intending to give them the work. I suppose any decent place should be totally cool with me throwing them a few bucks for their time, though.
When I bought my first BMW I took it to a dealer because it was running a little bit rough. Like very minor. They kept it for two days, did a service II, and handed me a list of repairs that included the head gasket, the power steering rack, and the radiator. Easily $5k+. I tightened the temp sensor in the side of the radiator which leaked a little under pressure. Then I drove it like the Bandit for 10 years and 150k miles without a single problem from the head gasket, the power steering rack, or the radiator. Not a damn thing wrong with any of them.
Yeah, this was one item on their $5k list of recommended repairs when i brought it in, which included suspension arms, struts, ac compressor, and regular 75k mile service (whatever that was). I brought it in so they could check the computer codes (proprietary, not the OBD) because the engine was momentarily losing power after starting in hot weather. They had nothing to say about the engine, but they tallied up $5k in other stuff pretty quickly.
Engine power thing is out of sight out of mind since the end of the summer, but it will be back soon.
Independent Volvo mechanics aren't all that uncommon, assuming you don't live in rural Idaho. They'll have the gear to talk to the car. The "proprietaryness" of the thing is honestly just the numbers they assign to the trouble-codes. A decent shop will tie into the CANBUS, the car will throw some nubmers at them, and they'll cross reference them to Volvo's.
There are plenty of shops around here that are going to charge you an hour labor just to check it out, and more if they have to talk to the CANBUS. My regular guys and another shop I've used off and on are happy to put it on a lift and see what's up for nothing. From my experience it seems to come down to how nice and fancy their shop is. If they're just leasing space in some warehouse district they're interested in being nice to customers. If they're state of the art in some expensive property they're going to nickel and dime everybody they can.
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Nothing beats having a truck around Chino. I had a '16 Silverado and it was amazing. Bigger cab than my car, better gas milage, and far more useful. I wish I never got rid of it in the sale of the hotel.
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My civic needs some tie wraps to keep the bumper on at this point. This has kind of been what I've been waiting for before I start getting serious about getting a new car. Going to go to the Honda dealership on Saturday to just get some initial info and speak to a sales person. Last time my car flat out stopped running so getting a new car was kind of an emergency and was needed quickly, even with the tie wraps, my current civic is runs well enough that I can survive for a bit, but I'd rather just get something that's not going to look like a disaster and I've been wanting to upgrade for awhile. I'm really only interested in the Civic or Accord from Honda, I want to see if they have any older models laying around too, see if there's any price mark downs. Also maybe come back there at the end of the month to see if prices went down. But bottom line for what I am looking for, something with more power, I want more of the bells and whistles (moon roof, blu tooth, nice sound). I'd rather a small car, maybe a coupe, but a smaller sedan works too. Needs to be reliable (which is why I love my current civic, never had any issues with it) and I am not looking to spend over 30k (although some of my build your car models on their website have turned out to be slightly over, that's MSRP, I want to see how much lower I can possibly get such a car).
Anyway, since my cars guts seem fine, it's just asthetics that's my issue. I am also considering the idea of holding onto it and maybe just getting a used car or even leasing a car, if it makes sense with the dollars. Just want to start exploring my options with actual sales people and not just within my head.
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So, it'll be months likely before proper reviews roll in, and end of year till even California dealers see it, but this new Hyundai Kona electric already excites me more than the Bolt and Leaf. And since, like those two, it will still be eligible for the full tax credit when I'd potentially buy in 2020 it is looking like a strong competitor to the Model 3 for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQ4opp_3ivk
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So, it'll be months likely before proper reviews roll in, and end of year till even California dealers see it, but this new Hyundai Kona electric already excites me more than the Bolt and Leaf. And since, like those two, it will still be eligible for the full tax credit when I'd potentially buy in 2020 it is looking like a strong competitor to the Model 3 for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQ4opp_3ivk
Wow, that looks cool. I was checking out the gas version of the Kona for my next lease, I didn't even know they were working on an electric version.
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So, it'll be months likely before proper reviews roll in, and end of year till even California dealers see it, but this new Hyundai Kona electric already excites me more than the Bolt and Leaf. And since, like those two, it will still be eligible for the full tax credit when I'd potentially buy in 2020 it is looking like a strong competitor to the Model 3 for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQ4opp_3ivk
Wow, that looks cool. I was checking out the gas version of the Kona for my next lease, I didn't even know they were working on an electric version.
Yeah, the normal version out this year definitely looks cool as well. Did you happen to test the ultimate edition? It has the upgraded audio and that's one of those things that I won't trust any review on until I'm in the vehicle. One of the things I love about my Fusion is that the cabin is super quiet and the sound is really good.
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Yeah, the normal version out this year definitely looks cool as well. Did you happen to test the ultimate edition? It has the upgraded audio and that's one of those things that I won't trust any review on until I'm in the vehicle. One of the things I love about my Fusion is that the cabin is super quiet and the sound is really good.
I haven't been down to the dealer to test drive anything yet, my lease isn't up till the end of the year. So far I've just done research online and I like what I see from the Kona from the comfort of my desk chair. The dealer near me has like 30 in stock now, so maybe I'll check one out next time I'm down that way.
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Cool beans, let me know your thoughts.
In related news, because I can't help researching these things, I've come up with a magic number of $6,416. So what is that? It's the amount that the electric version (net rebates) can exceed the gas version and still be a draw after tax savings for the first 100,000 miles. Computed that as I do over 20,000 miles a year, so that's a 5 year span for me max, and used $3.00/gallon as my average on gas and $0.14 per KWh as my average on electricity. Still waiting for pricing of course, and other factors go into cost to own, but I don't foresee that number being hit. It would require a base price of about 34,000, which is less than both the Bolt and Model 3, so unlikely.
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Hyundai has really stepped up there game with this new geneartion of cars coming out. My gf has a 2017 sonata and it's a fantastic car, I think she wants the santa fe as her next car.
I'm still stuck on the mustang which is most likely going to be my birthday present to myself unless I get a spectacular deal and get it a bit sooner.
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Went to the Honda dealership this afternoon, wanted to check out and compare the Civics and Accords. Turns out I kind of really liked the Civic Hatchback. Gave it a test drive and liked it, felt similar to my current Civic but with a tad bit more umph with 40 more horse power and the turbo. MSRP was 29k for the touring model (which is the trim I want), guy said he could do 26k and give 4k for the trade in (my 2010 Civic LX with 140k miles). I was pretty impressed with that offer but told him I am shopping it around. Very happy with how my first day of shopping went and that may be my next vehicle, but I still want to check out a few other dealers.
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Went to the Honda dealership this afternoon, wanted to check out and compare the Civics and Accords. Turns out I kind of really liked the Civic Hatchback. Gave it a test drive and liked it, felt similar to my current Civic but with a tad bit more umph with 40 more horse power and the turbo. MSRP was 29k for the touring model (which is the trim I want), guy said he could do 26k and give 4k for the trade in (my 2010 Civic LX with 140k miles). I was pretty impressed with that offer but told him I am shopping it around. Very happy with how my first day of shopping went and that may be my next vehicle, but I still want to check out a few other dealers.
I would love to suggest checking out the Clarity (plug-in Hybrid), as it falls between the Civic and Accord, but I saw one in person for the first time the other day and can confirm what online looks led me to believe, which is that the back end is hideous.
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Nice cram :tup, glad to hear your first trip out to the dealer went well, I like how the civic hatchback looks however I'm not a fan of the new type-r, there is way too much going on in the back.
Today I feel down the trap of reading build threads for the Factory Five cobra replicas. If I had the money and time I would love to do a project like that.
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Independent Volvo mechanics aren't all that uncommon, assuming you don't live in rural Idaho. They'll have the gear to talk to the car. The "proprietaryness" of the thing is honestly just the numbers they assign to the trouble-codes. A decent shop will tie into the CANBUS, the car will throw some nubmers at them, and they'll cross reference them to Volvo's.
There are plenty of shops around here that are going to charge you an hour labor just to check it out, and more if they have to talk to the CANBUS. My regular guys and another shop I've used off and on are happy to put it on a lift and see what's up for nothing. From my experience it seems to come down to how nice and fancy their shop is. If they're just leasing space in some warehouse district they're interested in being nice to customers. If they're state of the art in some expensive property they're going to nickel and dime everybody they can.
Yeah, I'm trying to find a reputable volvo shop where I live. I know they exist, and I've been searching volvo forums for specific mentions or recommendations. There is this "VIDA DICE" thing, which I believe is an integrated code reader and repair manual that runs on a pc. I have an OBDII code reader, but not all dash messages throw an OBD code.
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About a month ago, i noticed the carpet in the rear driver's side was wet. I thought a water bottle spilled, so i took out the mat and hung it to dry in front of a dehumidifier, and later had the dehumidifier inside the car running for about 2 days. That seemed to clear it up. Earlier this week I noticed there was still moisture in the carpet, and the front was also wet. I soon realized my sun roof was not draining properly. Sun roofs are not water tight and allow some water past the seal and into a gutter, eventually draining down a small hose along the A pillar and out in front of the firewall. After Monday's nasty rain storm here in NJ, i was expecting severe moisture in the morning. It was certainly wet, but not as terrible as I thought. Last night I picked up some new plastic tubing to replace the old drain, and pulled up the carpet under the driver seat and foot well. Parts of it were still dripping wet, and the metal frame still had a few small puddles of water. Fortunately that piece of carpet is a separate piece, and I didn't have to pull up the rest of the floor. I will probably pull up the rear carpet tonight and hang it alongside the front with the dehumidifier blowing on it overnight. My wife had mentioned the car "smelled like feet" a few months ago, so this moisture must have been present for quite a long time. Fortunately there is no visible rust or mold.
tl;dr- leaky sunroof, pulled up carpet to dry and will replace sunroof drain hoses.
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Some of those hoses, though, are a pain in the ass.
Where are you that you're looking for a Volvo tech (you can PM me if you want).
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Im going from this
(https://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/3867393/Images/Blog/active/Sunroof+(12).jpg) (https://blog.fcpeuro.com/p1-volvo-sunroof-drain-fix)
to this:
(https://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/3867393/Images/Blog/active/Sunroof+(15).jpg) (https://blog.fcpeuro.com/p1-volvo-sunroof-drain-fix)
The tube ends at this goofy feed through onto the other side of the firewall, which I will keep in place:
(https://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/3867393/Images/Blog/active/Sunroof+(3).jpg) (https://blog.fcpeuro.com/p1-volvo-sunroof-drain-fix)
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That looks like a smart step up, because if nothing else, you can monitor it for future blockages.
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Yeah, just have to take off the sun visor, overhead handle, A pillar trim and pull down the headliner...
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Is that a VW you're driving? :lol
My golf used to get the sunroof drains clogged all the time.
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Volvo. I don't think it's unique to any make, though. I had a Toyota with the same issue about 15 years ago.
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I'm looking forward to next weekend, I'm going to do some serious car shopping and start making a short list of what I want.
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Really frustrating past couple days with car. Driving to work a couple days ago battery light comes on, power steering gone welp that means my serpentine belt broke, I've dealt with this before. Luckily I was close enough to home that I just coasting my car home and took my bike to work. That night take off the fan only to realize that the belt is fine, and in great shape all the pulleys look great too, looks like my (what I thought was small) oil leak was getting on the pulleys and caused my belt to come off. I thought fuck it, it's an oil filter housing gasket, I'll swap that out, $6 for the gasket. Pull the power steering & alternator change the gasket and I"m doing up the bolts. Get to the last bolt of the housing when the bolt strips. FUCKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!! I didn't over torque it or even get close, so now I have ot run to bmw pick up a new bolt get it as tight as I can and call it a day.
Fucking fuck fuck fuck shit fuck.
//Rant
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Volvo. I don't think it's unique to any make, though. I had a Toyota with the same issue about 15 years ago.
Apparently there was a class action lawsuit regarding poor sunroof drains on this model. Volvo knew about it during production, but it remained an internal memo only, with a technical service b5ulletin sent to service centers. I just emailed them to see what I could get. New carpet would be great, and having them install it would be even better.
Edit: argh..
At this time, there is no recall or extended warranty pertaining to this matter. You may proceed with inspection of your concern at a an authorized Volvo retailer and the needed repair can be reviewed for cost assistance. These decisions are made on a case by case basis, so assistance is no way guaranteed.
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On another subject, I have been using my smartphone and the car stereo aux input. The aux cable is male TRS (tip ring sleeve) on both ends, and I am getting random signals into the phone's mic pin which causes the music to pause, skip, and fools the phone into thinking its receiving voice commands. I know there are TRS-TRRS adapters, but there seem to be so many configurations and permutations, that I'm not sure exactly which is the one I need. It seems to me that the male input to the phone should have TRRS, with the mic ring floating rather than grounded to the sleeve, and the other end TRS.
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Random KIA rant.
Love the Sorento. Lots of vehicle for less money. But decided to double down on the already good warranty by buying the extended. Essentially bumper to bumper for 10 years. bad bad bad move....
Turns out. The extended is through a secondary company. Tri-core insurance or some such. And the instant I purchased it, it over ruled the original KIA warranty. Gets better. Because they're a separate company from KIA the dealer becomes handcuffed and is essentially making insurance claims on your behalf when ever things go wrong on the vehicle. It's not a lemon, but shit breaks...hockey sticks break...everything breaks. In our case it was the shift lock when putting the vehicle in park. It wouldn't 100% believe it WAS in park and wouldn't allow us to start the vehicle. But there was no code, nothing to bill to tricore, no loaner, no solution - and much frustration from mrs. ytse that her KIA truck randomly wouldn't start where ever she might be. We left it at dealerships over nights, weekends, an entire WEEK. They couldn't recreate the problem. Of course not. It started every time because they never drove it anywhere and thus never had to put it BACK into park. It was that question that allowed me and the service manager to solve the problem. In fairness to the dealer/manager/service staff they were pretty damn good. And having researched this problem I've heard others in the same boat. So why would KIA Canada or KIA USA enter into this type of agreement with an independent company when the average citizen could have told them dealing with any kind of insurance company is a nightmare.
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Damn. I would never guess that extended warranty would override manufacturer's warranty like that. I turned down all extended warranty offers last time i bought a new car, but not for any particular reasons other than not understanding exactly how i can get screwed by them.
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My GF's father bought a new F-350 toward the end of 2016. He bought the upgraded suspension package, as well as the winter and plow package combo. They sold him on getting the extended drivetrain warranty because it's a work truck and he often times has the bed loaded and is pulling a trailer. I think he said he paid like $3200 for it. Anyway, his transmission blew at like 30,000 miles and the dealer said the warranty didn't cover it because the truck was used to plow... They invalidated the warranty they sold him because of another upgrade they sold him. He went ballistic in the dealership and now drives a Chevy 3500. First time he hasn't had a Ford in more than 30 years.
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I realized while driving last night I never hit the "max" button on my climate control console. I pushed it and the vents roared to life. Then there was a huge bang and it sounded like a helicopter was taking off. Now if my fan is on anything higher than 2 (out of 6), the whole car shakes and you get an awful earful of something.
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I realized while driving last night I never hit the "max" button on my climate control console. I pushed it and the vents roared to life. Then there was a huge bang and it sounded like a helicopter was taking off. Now if my fan is on anything higher than 2 (out of 6), the whole car shakes and you get an awful earful of something.
I can't speak to the car shaking, but I've had a very loud clicking sound that occurs when you adjust either climate control (hot/cold) or the inside/outside air vent control. It's an actuator in the dash that controls the vents - my car has at least 3. I had two replaced and a third just started clicking.
The gears on the actuator are plastic and wear down with use and time. The clicking is the actuator gears slipping while trying to move the vent. That could be related to your issue, though my car doesn't shake when it happens.
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I realized while driving last night I never hit the "max" button on my climate control console. I pushed it and the vents roared to life. Then there was a huge bang and it sounded like a helicopter was taking off. Now if my fan is on anything higher than 2 (out of 6), the whole car shakes and you get an awful earful of something.
I can't speak to the car shaking, but I've had a very loud clicking sound that occurs when you adjust either climate control (hot/cold) or the inside/outside air vent control. It's an actuator in the dash that controls the vents - my car has at least 3. I had two replaced and a third just started clicking.
The gears on the actuator are plastic and wear down with use and time. The clicking is the actuator gears slipping while trying to move the vent. That could be related to your issue, though my car doesn't shake when it happens.
And wouldn't you only hear that sound when the actuators were trying to make adjustments to the vents? Mine noise never stops.
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I realized while driving last night I never hit the "max" button on my climate control console. I pushed it and the vents roared to life. Then there was a huge bang and it sounded like a helicopter was taking off. Now if my fan is on anything higher than 2 (out of 6), the whole car shakes and you get an awful earful of something.
Some part of your blower motor broke apart at high speed and now it's majorly out of balance.
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I realized while driving last night I never hit the "max" button on my climate control console. I pushed it and the vents roared to life. Then there was a huge bang and it sounded like a helicopter was taking off. Now if my fan is on anything higher than 2 (out of 6), the whole car shakes and you get an awful earful of something.
Some part of your blower motor broke apart at high speed and now it's majorly out of balance.
That's what I was thinking. Do you think it's the motor itself, or a blade on a fan attached to the motor? It would surprise me that a motor would cause the level of vibrations I'm feeling though, unless it's way bigger than I'm anticipating. Not saying you're wrong.
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I realized while driving last night I never hit the "max" button on my climate control console. I pushed it and the vents roared to life. Then there was a huge bang and it sounded like a helicopter was taking off. Now if my fan is on anything higher than 2 (out of 6), the whole car shakes and you get an awful earful of something.
Some part of your blower motor broke apart at high speed and now it's majorly out of balance.
That's what I was thinking. Do you think it's the motor itself, or a blade on a fan attached to the motor? It would surprise me that a motor would cause the level of vibrations I'm feeling though, unless it's way bigger than I'm anticipating. Not saying you're wrong.
Sounds like this is the problem.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI_R56/112-ELEC-Blower_Motor_Replacement/112-ELEC-Blower_Motor_Replacement.htm
If your blower motor fails, replace the blower and resistor together. You don't want to have to go back in if one fails later. Over time, a blower motor may become noisy as the motor electrical contacts wear. The blower fan cages also fracture, creating a vibration when the blower is ON. If it fails or becomes noisy, you can use this procedure for the repairs.
Replacing the blower motor is no easy task. You will have to work high up behind the instrument panel in an uncomfortable position. If you suspect your blower final stage or blower are faulty, see our tech article on blower motor and final stage testing to confirm your suspicion.
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That sucks. The squirrel cage in mine is a notorious pain in the ass, but at least you're working from the top down. I hate working up from the floorboard. Mine is accessed from engine compartment. The flip side is that that the resistor is under the dash, so if you do both you're doing two separate jobs.
If you do it yourself be careful not to let any dirt or dust get in there. You'll never get it out and it'll bug you. I've got what sounds like a tiny pebble that flies from one side of the car to the other when I corner fast.
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That sucks. The squirrel cage in mine is a notorious pain in the ass, but at least you're working from the top down. I hate working up from the floorboard. Mine is accessed from engine compartment. The flip side is that that the resistor is under the dash, so if you do both you're doing two separate jobs.
If you do it yourself be careful not to let any dirt or dust get in there. You'll never get it out and it'll bug you. I've got what sounds like a tiny pebble that flies from one side of the car to the other when I corner fast.
I don't do anything on my cars. I don't trust myself enough, nor do I have the luxury of having it be out of commission for a few days while I fix whatever I'm working on. When I bring it to a dealer or a garage, I get a loaner. This really blows though. I still owe $4k on the car and was hoping to just be able to dump it for $2k-$3k once I was finally done paying it off. Now I have to decide what I want to do about this.
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Give yourself a little more credit, dude. Between that monstrosity in your basement and some of your carpentry projects, this will be a cakewalk. Order the part online. Suffer through it until next weekend. Spend 4 hours on a Saturday fixing it. You'll save $600 and feel better about it afterward. This isn't replacing a head gasket or anything. Besides, if you fuck it up it won't cost anymore to have a pro do it later.
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I've done that job as well, and it's as el Barto explains it. I don't know your car, but the BMWs I worked on were a pain in the ass but eminently do-able.
el Barto, if memory serves that was a VERY common problem on the E30 and E36 BMWs; is Chino's problem a remnant of that, or unrelated?
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I've done that job as well, and it's as el Barto explains it. I don't know your car, but the BMWs I worked on were a pain in the ass but eminently do-able.
el Barto, if memory serves that was a VERY common problem on the E30 and E36 BMWs; is Chino's problem a remnant of that, or unrelated?
I never had that issue with my E30 or E36 over 13 years. It's definitely an issue with the E46, though. As far as I know the problem with those is just that the bearings fail and it sounds like a cricket in the dash. That's what's going on with mine. In my case the chirping is relative to the CoG. When the car is steady it's barely there. When I'm accelerating it's pronounced. As soon as I hit the brakes it's silent.
Sounds like his blew apart. That doesn't sound very common to me. My best guess would be that the bearings have been failing for a while, producing enough slop on the sides that cranking it up to full power shook the thing apart. Or, it the bearings created enough slop for it to bang against the casing. That would definitely do it.
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Give yourself a little more credit, dude. Between that monstrosity in your basement and some of your carpentry projects, this will be a cakewalk. Order the part online. Suffer through it until next weekend. Spend 4 hours on a Saturday fixing it. You'll save $600 and feel better about it afterward. This isn't replacing a head gasket or anything. Besides, if you fuck it up it won't cost anymore to have a pro do it later.
This! I've seen stuff you do Chino and it's impressive. There is going to be a forum post, youtube video, online guide out there walking you through all the steps you need to fix the issue. It's how I starting working on cars initially.
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I found a local Volvo shop and the guy was very willing to look at my car without committing to having do any work. He did a test drive with me for a few miles and after putting it on a lift found that the rattling sound in my suspension was a sway bar end link. Besides that, he didn't have anything else besides what I already knew needed to be done. He then asked about the timing belt, which is another item that's just exceeded its 10 year life. For belt, tensioner, idler pulley, water pump and serpentine belt, he quoted $1200. Damn. I got a dealer quote for the timing belt (which probably included only the belt) for $750, but I'm sure the price would be well north of this guy with the other parts/labor included. He said it would be a 6 hour job, and might go up to $2000 if he VVT needs replacing. He also said its $800 in parts, but even with volvo original parts, its only about 250-300 in parts. I really liked the guy and he seems straight with his business; we talked for over an hour about volvos and various other nonsense, but his prices seem just too high.
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Never heard of a timing belt that took 6 hours to replace. I'd be calling around on that.
Sadly, it's pretty common for places to mark up parts quite a bit now. Used to be that you paid a mechanic for labor and expertise. Now you're paying him retail on the parts he installs. Basically, you've got cost, let's say 100. Then you've got the "list" price, $200. And then the dealer price, $300. The mechanic will sell it to you for $150 and claim he gave you a 50% discount off of the list price.
Hell, I had a mechanic that charged you for oil even if you brought your own in (he didn't use my brand). Just like dealers marking up prices is an important part of their model.
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Yeah, 6 hours seems like what it would take me who has never done one before. His rate is $100/hour, which isn't totally unreasonable around here, though ive heard of shops that charge 75. It would be $850 total with me buying the parts.
Edit: He said he uses this tool to keep the cams locked, which requires access to the other end of the head to install, and presumable more labor. It seems in most write-ups people don't do this.
(https://dyw03owr7vs3n.cloudfront.net/public/assets/products/108492/large/CTA-2864.jpg?1496423519)
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Yeah, if he needs access to the front and the back he's dumping a lot more time into it. While I can certainly understand wanting the cams locked down, it sure does seem like there would be simpler ways of doing it. If I had to take a guess I'd say that he's taking the safest, most conservative approach, passing the added time along to you. He probably took a bath once doing one when somebody drove off and had their valves turn into mangled mass of steel a block from the shop. Decided to take a different approach.
Sometimes it's best to let others assume risk. There's a part on my car called a DISA (German acronym for a variable length intake). They wear out and replacing them is a 20 minute job. Every once in a while it'll break when you try to remove it and drop bits of plastic into one of the cylinders. Now you're having to tear into the top of your motor. Suffice it to say, that's a 20 minute job I'll pay my mechanic to do.
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Timing Belt?
That was a $900 all day job for my uncle's shop (2005 PT Cruiser) a few years ago. Other places quoted $1200+ or just laughed at me when I asked for a quote.
My other half bought another '05 PT after her first one was totaled, and we are going to have to deal with that bullshit in another 20k miles.
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Timing Belt?
That was a $900 all day job for my uncle's shop (2005 PT Cruiser) a few years ago. Other places quoted $1200+ or just laughed at me when I asked for a quote.
My other half bought another '05 PT after her first one was totaled, and we are going to have to deal with that bullshit in another 20k miles.
When my timing belt went in my 2000 Passat, it was $3800ish in damage.
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Lol, anecdotes range from "$13 and 20 minutes in my driveway" (not for my car, but i've read this) to "$3800ish in damage".
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Lol, anecdotes range from "$13 and 20 minutes in my driveway" (not for my car, but i've read this) to "$3800ish in damage".
Changing the belt is one thing. Having to replace the damage caused by a broken belt results in far more than just the belt needing to be changed. 4 cylinder heads were damaged and had to be remilled. 16 valves needed to be replaced. Etc..
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Lol, anecdotes range from "$13 and 20 minutes in my driveway" (not for my car, but i've read this) to "$3800ish in damage".
Changing the belt is one thing. Having to replace the damage caused by a broken belt results in far more than just the belt needing to be changed. 4 cylinder heads were damaged and had to be remilled. 16 valves needed to be replaced. Etc..
Ah, I didn't interpret in your post that it failed. Yikes.
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Yeah, a cam belt failure on an interference engine is quite often a car killer. If your car is a non-interference engine it'll just sputter, die, and your mechanic will slap a new belt on. Off you go.
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Timing Belt?
That was a $900 all day job for my uncle's shop (2005 PT Cruiser) a few years ago. Other places quoted $1200+ or just laughed at me when I asked for a quote.
My other half bought another '05 PT after her first one was totaled, and we are going to have to deal with that bullshit in another 20k miles.
When my timing belt went in my 2000 Passat, it was $3800ish in damage.
My first car was a 2001 VW Golf and it had a ridiculous timing belt interval, something like 40k miles.
Being a broke college student I didn't replace it until around 120k.
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I called another Volvo shop to quote this timing belt job. Same job, same parts replaced, they quoted $850 compared to $1200 from the first quote, which had an option to go to $2000 with potential VVT service. Damn. Its a shop that specializes in a bunch of euro makes, and they have 4 stars on yelp, however a one-star comment ends with "The positive reviews have GOT TO BE pure buddy system bullcrap". The positive ones do seem a bit more enthusiastic than a simply satisfied customer might write. It seems to be a reasonably large business, unlike the sole proprietor with assistant I saw previously.
My hesitancy stems from a co worker who had his timing belt replaced and months later had an aux belt failure. My memory is a bit fuzzy, but I think it then interfered with the timing belt which then damaged the engine. I want to make sure I have some recourse after this repair if something goes south. He used a dealer, and was able to go to corporate to get it resolved.
Gonna call one more place, then just pull the trigger on something.
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I called another Volvo shop to quote this timing belt job. Same job, same parts replaced, they quoted $850 compared to $1200 from the first quote, which had an option to go to $2000 with potential VVT service. Damn. Its a shop that specializes in a bunch of euro makes, and they have 4 stars on yelp, however a one-star comment ends with "The positive reviews have GOT TO BE pure buddy system bullcrap". The positive ones do seem a bit more enthusiastic than a simply satisfied customer might write. It seems to be a reasonably large business, unlike the sole proprietor with assistant I saw previously.
I know someone who owns a local car wash and also know for a fact that he makes BS yelp/online reviews to make his star rating higher. Wouldn't be surprised if your instincts are correct.
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Would he happen to be in Texas? I checked out a forum post from a detailer who recommended this place in NJ, and he was in Texas, lol.
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I wasn't part of it, myself, but I know of a bar in Philly that the patrons all sat there - locals, regulars - and posting reviews while joking about what they were writing with the bartender and manager. Not exactly arms-length and objective.
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Would he happen to be in Texas? I checked out a forum post from a detailer who recommended this place in NJ, and he was in Texas, lol.
:lol maybe since he is in NJ, could of swapped it up to look different.
As for autos, my battery died Monday morning. Got it replaced, but not only that, my bumped officially fell off. I had it parked on the street outside my gf's apartment and I think someone tapped the corner of it knocking it off (I say tapped because it was kind of hanging onto it's last threads and I only saw a small scrape on the bumper). I tie wrapped it back on and actually it looks better than it did before :lol I think I got myself anohter year in the car before I re-evaluate and look around again. I had some money saved up for a down payment this year but I'll hold onto it.
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As for autos, my battery died Monday morning. Got it replaced, but not only that, my bumped officially fell off. I had it parked on the street outside my gf's apartment and I think someone tapped the corner of it knocking it off (I say tapped because it was kind of hanging onto it's last threads and I only saw a small scrape on the bumper). I tie wrapped it back on and actually it looks better than it did before :lol I think I got myself anohter year in the car before I re-evaluate and look around again. I had some money saved up for a down payment this year but I'll hold onto it.
Is there anything else mechanically wrong with the car? Otherwise just replace the bumper and keep driving it.
OK, another dealer quote of $1118. Oddly, my second lowest of 4 quotes (ranging from $850 to $1800). Trying to justify spending/saving the $268 by deciding its value. I don't have to rent a car for the day (or 2, or 3..) it takes the dealer to do the job, and their warranty is better than an independent shop (which may be more perception than anything). Maybe that $268 is nothing more than expensive insurance and convenience.
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Nothing else wrong, so it seems. Im cool with the tie wrapped bumper vs buying a new one. I just don't want to put money into the car unless it's basic maintenance at this point.
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Oh car woes. If it's not mine or my GF's, its the work car.
2004 Prius with 180k miles on it.
Getting not just a check engine light, but an indicator on that makes me feel as if the car is going to blow up :lol
It looks like the batteries are getting close to over heating. Meaning I get to take it into a Toyota dealer probably Monday. I have a feeling that if it is too much to fix the issue, my boss is going to tell us to park it for however long until he can figure out what he wants to do with it. Which sucks for me... as having that car makes my life a lot easier during the day :lol
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I moved about 6 months ago, and just noticed an E39 M5 in a driveway a few blocks down. Gotta find that guy outside at some point and chew his ear a bit.
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I had to flatbed my car to Mini last Friday. It was having trouble running and the engine would cut down to like 400rpm if I took my foot off the gas. When I pressed in the clutch, the car would stall.
Just got a call from the dealership, and they're telling me I need a new engine. Something about head gaskets, oil corroding the coolant system, and coolant being found in the engine. I'm going down there on my lunch break to see what's up. The rep I spoke to says they can't say for 100% if it needs a new engine without doing 5-9 hours of tear down. In his experience, when these symptoms show up, it almost always results in an engine swap or a rebuild that costs more in labor and parts than just swapping the engine.
Now I'm wondering if this could be related to that vibration issue I talked about on the previous page.
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Ouch. I can only guess what's involved in attempting to repair that. It might be worthwhile for a capable and equipped DIYer, but paying for someone else's labor to fix this may well be more than a new engine.
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I had to flatbed my car to Mini last Friday. It was having trouble running and the engine would cut down to like 400rpm if I took my foot off the gas. When I pressed in the clutch, the car would stall.
Just got a call from the dealership, and they're telling me I need a new engine. Something about head gaskets, oil corroding the coolant system, and coolant being found in the engine. I'm going down there on my lunch break to see what's up. The rep I spoke to says they can't say for 100% if it needs a new engine without doing 5-9 hours of tear down. In his experience, when these symptoms show up, it almost always results in an engine swap or a rebuild that costs more in labor and parts than just swapping the engine.
Now I'm wondering if this could be related to that vibration issue I talked about on the previous page.
Had it overheated recently? That's usually what blows head gaskets. Your car isn't so old that age would have gotten to it, unless they're really using shit parts.
If coolant is in the crankcase (milky sludge on the dipstick) then it's all over. On that car a new (or pre-owned) engine is probably cheaper than rebuilding the top. A new engine probably isn't required, unless you really overheated the hell out of it. A new cylinder head may or may not be, but that's something they won't know until they do a helluva lot of labor to find out. If the head is warped then it has to be replaced. If the gasket just blew then the head can be machined and reused. Either way you're looking at a pretty big check. My sympathies. In BMW world this is what kills cars.
One thing I would suggest is shopping the job around. There's so much labor involved that knocking $75/hr off will make a huge difference. As will some after-market parts. There might be a new radiator in your future, for example.
BTW, when pondering if you want to fix the car, how old is the clutch? That's another $1500 job that might be on your horizon.
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I had to flatbed my car to Mini last Friday. It was having trouble running and the engine would cut down to like 400rpm if I took my foot off the gas. When I pressed in the clutch, the car would stall.
Just got a call from the dealership, and they're telling me I need a new engine. Something about head gaskets, oil corroding the coolant system, and coolant being found in the engine. I'm going down there on my lunch break to see what's up. The rep I spoke to says they can't say for 100% if it needs a new engine without doing 5-9 hours of tear down. In his experience, when these symptoms show up, it almost always results in an engine swap or a rebuild that costs more in labor and parts than just swapping the engine.
Now I'm wondering if this could be related to that vibration issue I talked about on the previous page.
Had it overheated recently? That's usually what blows head gaskets. Your car isn't so old that age would have gotten to it, unless they're really using shit parts.
If coolant is in the crankcase (milky sludge on the dipstick) then it's all over. On that car a new (or pre-owned) engine is probably cheaper than rebuilding the top. A new engine probably isn't required, unless you really overheated the hell out of it. A new cylinder head may or may not be, but that's something they won't know until they do a helluva lot of labor to find out. If the head is warped then it has to be replaced. If the gasket just blew then the head can be machined and reused. Either way you're looking at a pretty big check. My sympathies. In BMW world this is what kills cars.
One thing I would suggest is shopping the job around. There's so much labor involved that knocking $75/hr off will make a huge difference. As will some after-market parts. There might be a new radiator in your future, for example.
BTW, when pondering if you want to fix the car, how old is the clutch? That's another $1500 job that might be on your horizon.
It hasn't overheated since 75K miles ago when the water pump died. However, I have noticed that on a hot day, the cooling fans will stay on for 10+ minutes after shutting the car off. The car just passed 122K miles and the clutch is definitely on my mind.
I'm leaning toward not fixing the thing despite still owing $3600 on it (to a bank, not Mini). I can't wrap my head around spending a few thousand dollars only to risk having the clutch or transmission go a month after I repair it. I've wanted a mid-sized pickup or a large SUV for a while now. The dealer's online inventory shows that they have a 2015 Mazda CX-9 in the price range I'm looking for. I might try to work something out with them on that. I'd really prefer to not have to tow the car back to my house to just let it sit while I try and dump it on someone who's willing to change the engine.
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Cooling fans remaining on is a good thing. If they're secondary fans in front of the radiator they don't do a whole lot. If they're electric engine fans they do a great deal.
And just to be clear, I wasn't necessarily suggesting an independent shop replace the engine. An outside mechanic might be able to replace the gasket much cheaper. The new (used) engine is just often times cheaper than repairing the head.
~115k is generally considered clutch territory. If they're using the same components BMW uses, pretty likely, bump that up to >140k. Sachs makes a pretty fine clutch.
And you're a bright guy, so I'm sure you're mindful of this, but buying a car from the same people that tell you your old one is toast is dodgy. They know they have you over a barrel.
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Cooling fans remaining on is a good thing. If they're secondary fans in front of the radiator they don't do a whole lot. If they're electric engine fans they do a great deal.
And just to be clear, I wasn't necessarily suggesting an independent shop replace the engine. An outside mechanic might be able to replace the gasket much cheaper. The new (used) engine is just often times cheaper than repairing the head.
~115k is generally considered clutch territory. If they're using the same components BMW uses, pretty likely, bump that up to >140k. Sachs makes a pretty fine clutch.
And you're a bright guy, so I'm sure you're mindful of this, but buying a car from the same people that tell you your old one is toast is dodgy. They know they have you over a barrel.
Yeah. I'm not set in stone on it, just keeping it in the back of my mind.
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Dealer just said the repair will be $10,500 on the low end
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Dealer just said the repair will be $10,500 on the low end
I'm guessing that's a new engine and a new cooling system. Did they tell you what the actual damage was, or are they just assuming a new engine is the best way to go? The options are that the gasket is blown, the head is warped/cracked, or the engine block is cracked. If it's just the gasket an independent shop is going to come in closer to 2k. Book time is going to be ~14hrs. If you don't need a new head the parts aren't all that bad.
Sucks that things like this have gotten so expensive. When I was 18 I needed a head gasket for my Cellica and was pissed off that it was going to run me $600. Hell, I had my RX7 Wanker completely rebuilt for about a grand.
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They can't give me an exact diagnosis without disassembling the majority of the engine. I told them to not bother. The techs ruled out the head gasket because when they put coolant in, the level doesn't change. It's going straight into the engine. If it was the head gasket, that wouldn't be the case. He said it was some kind of plug that failed and that allowed the coolant to get into everything else. They said I was going to need a new block for sure, and unless they can get into there, there's no way of knowing the extent of the rest of the damage (cylinders, piston heads, etc..). They said just dropping a whole new engine in would be cheaper than just getting a new block and transferring everything from the old engine into the new one.
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That sucks. Do a search for Mini freeze plug failure and you'll find a lot of info. It's happened to more than a few folk. It's also been misdiagnosed by plenty of dealers, or at least exaggerated. If you were desperate it might be worth a second opinion, but I'd be so pissed off I'd just look to run as fast as I could from it.
Seems the motors in those things were manufactured by Peugeot. That actually explains a lot. The French have no business building cars.
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Yep :/ I'm cutting ties with it completely. I'm done with it. It was a fun ride, but I probably wont be getting another one any time soon. I'd love one as a weekend cruiser, but with my commute it's a bitch of a daily driver now that the miles have accumulated like they have.
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Goddamn Chino that sucks. I was going to add some thoughts to the thread but Barto covered everything I wanted to add. Honestly mini's reliability is questionable at best. Anecdotally speaking my buddy has a 2016 that spew all it's oil out within 2 weeks of ownership of his new Mini.
What is your plan now? New car?
After doing a large overhaul of my bmw it's working like a champ now, I just need it to work long enough until I get my mustang delivered.
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I'm getting a new car for sure.
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Are you still thinking of getting a truck?
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I'd still love to get one, but that's probably not in the cards. I was planning on being able to build up a sizeable down payment over the next 8-10 months and then look at one, but I can't do that now.
I really don't want to take any more than $3K out of my savings for this, and I have just over $3K in matured bonds I'm cashing in (thanks first communion!). I'm really not looking to finance any more than $15K for 48 months. So when looking at trucks, that puts anything in my price range somewhere in 90K-110K mile territory. Seeing as I commute 70-100 miles a day, that's unfortunately not really going to work.
Basically I'm just looking for something big that will hold me over for four years.
I'm looking at this.
(https://876734eee901166dec1e-27359fd21643fb63bdaa81e4cd2fabde.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/JM3TB3CV9E0446923/01a8eeee06c862ae81a473d3ffa542db.jpg)
(https://876734eee901166dec1e-27359fd21643fb63bdaa81e4cd2fabde.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/JM3TB3CV9E0446923/d6094125b0901120e385753376b8b755.jpg)
It's not my first choice, but I don't have time to shop around and it matches all my criteria. I liked my previous Mazda a lot and this is surprisingly sporty to drive. I drove three of them yesterday and all were great. The one above has basically every option other than the 20" wheels and the fancy review mirror that dims itself. It's got 50K miles on it. I think I'm going to pull the trigger.
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The dealership was really being stubborn on the price of the vehicle I'm looking at. I couldn't get them to budge (I came at them with a good figure early on that got rejected really quick). However, I got them to put on new tires, brakes, and calipers, so that's kind of okay I guess.
I'm going down tonight to look at it on a lift and will be giving them a down payment if everything looks okay under there. I'll be taking delivery tomorrow afternoon.
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The dealership was really being stubborn on the price of the vehicle I'm looking at. I couldn't get them to budge (I came at them with a good figure early on that got rejected really quick). However, I got them to put on new tires, brakes, and calipers, so that's kind of okay I guess.
I'm going down tonight to look at it on a lift and will be giving them a down payment if everything looks okay under there. I'll be taking delivery tomorrow afternoon.
If you know anybody who works on cars, you should take him along with you. You can pay him in lettuce or something. I know a bit about cars, but I can never see any problems when I'm inspecting them. Somebody who works on them will whip out a flashlight and point out half a dozen problems right off the bat. Barring that, tell the dealer you're driving it to another shop for a PPI. Should run you $150 or so, and buy you a tremendous amount of piece of mind.
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Oh yeah, I meant to mention that and didn't. I already told them before I finalize anything with ink, I'd like to get under it while it's on a lift. I have a mechanic buddy coming down with me.
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Oh yeah, I meant to mention that and didn't. I already told them before I finalize anything with ink, I'd like to get under it while it's on a lift. I have a mechanic buddy coming down with me.
Excellent. It always blows my mind how many obvious things a mechanic will find that I should have caught. Just knowing where to look for signs of oil leaks makes a huge difference, since after they clean it there might only be a drop or two. Also, did you see the tires before they replaced them? Worn evenly?
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Oh yeah, I meant to mention that and didn't. I already told them before I finalize anything with ink, I'd like to get under it while it's on a lift. I have a mechanic buddy coming down with me.
Excellent. It always blows my mind how many obvious things a mechanic will find that I should have caught. Just knowing where to look for signs of oil leaks makes a huge difference, since after they clean it there might only be a drop or two. Also, did you see the tires before they replaced them? Worn evenly?
Yeah. The wear looked pretty even to me. Hard to tell from tire to tire, but as far as the tread wear on each tire, all looked good. It had an alignment done about 15K miles ago according to the car fax report. The tires weren't that worn, so I'm assuming that was done along side a tire change as well.
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Look for the date code on the tires. Four digits representing the week and year they were made. I replaced mine in pairs, and the date codes are clearly different by about 2 years.
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I ended up buying that CX-9 last week. I ended up getting the power train warranty and bumper to bumper warranty extended to 130K miles. I'm happy with the vehicle. It got plenty of power, but I do really miss the handling the mini cooper had. It's almost like I have to plan out and calculate a turn rather than just being able to throw the car wherever I need it to go.
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The dealership was really being stubborn on the price of the vehicle I'm looking at. I couldn't get them to budge (I came at them with a good figure early on that got rejected really quick). However, I got them to put on new tires, brakes, and calipers, so that's kind of okay I guess.
I'm going down tonight to look at it on a lift and will be giving them a down payment if everything looks okay under there. I'll be taking delivery tomorrow afternoon.
If you know anybody who works on cars, you should take him along with you. You can pay him in lettuce or something. I know a bit about cars, but I can never see any problems when I'm inspecting them. Somebody who works on them will whip out a flashlight and point out half a dozen problems right off the bat. Barring that, tell the dealer you're driving it to another shop for a PPI. Should run you $150 or so, and buy you a tremendous amount of piece of mind.
This. My step son is now my go-to car buddy. It's amazing what an impartial eye will find. My Taco died (well, is dying) and I drove by a Ford F150 Sport Body in a 16 second drive-by he was like "yeah, looks good, but remember to ask him about x and y"; and that's not even getting out of the car. I'll have him put it on a lift too, of course, but it's good peace of mind.
"Pay him in lettuce". You kill me! :)
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I spent a week driving over 2k miles around florida in a 2017 Mustang:
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DeC_n_VX0AIEkui.jpg)
It was a base model, but still soooo much fun to drive especially while driving around Homestead Florida (which might as well been Alabama) as no one was around on the long straight flat roads. Makes me really want to get one now, but my GF is very much against it as she thinks (and kind of knows) I will get in trouble. Driving my 2010 Civic now makes me sad.
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When we rented ours, I was blown away by how much trunk space and rear seat room it had. We had two adults in the back.
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When we rented ours, I was blown away by how much trunk space and rear seat room it had. We had two adults in the back.
We never tried to put anyone in the back, but the trunk was pretty spacious for all our luggage and bags. I really enjoyed the cooled seats, especially since I had swamp ass by the end of every day.
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I just bought about $600 in suspension parts, and I will probably tackle it this weekend. Front and rear struts, mounts, boots and bumpers, and front sway bar end links which. I'm actually looking forward to this job, which is surprising considering the control arm replacement i did about 2 years ago when I hated the world afterward.
I also bought some cheapo impact drivers and sockets from harbor freight to try making my day a bit easier. They seemed way underpowerd compared to their ratings, and I just bought a used ingersoll rand driver on ebay and will return the HF ones. Also, as with any time I do car repairs, I start going crazy reading about tools and trying to fill out my socket sets, etc. I have lots of hand-me-down craftsman tools, but reading around makes me not want to augment with the new craftsman stuff. However, being a bit of a dweeb about it, I also want matching sets. Oddly enough, last time I bought a few sockets I didn't have, they were actually made in USA. Maybe individual sockets are procured differently from sets?? Maybe I could get lucky again.
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I just bought about $600 in suspension parts, and I will probably tackle it this weekend. Front and rear struts, mounts, boots and bumpers, and front sway bar end links which. I'm actually looking forward to this job, which is surprising considering the control arm replacement i did about 2 years ago when I hated the world afterward.
I also bought some cheapo impact drivers and sockets from harbor freight to try making my day a bit easier. They seemed way underpowerd compared to their ratings, and I just bought a used ingersoll rand driver on ebay and will return the HF ones. Also, as with any time I do car repairs, I start going crazy reading about tools and trying to fill out my socket sets, etc. I have lots of hand-me-down craftsman tools, but reading around makes me not want to augment with the new craftsman stuff. However, being a bit of a dweeb about it, I also want matching sets. Oddly enough, last time I bought a few sockets I didn't have, they were actually made in USA. Maybe individual sockets are procured differently from sets?? Maybe I could get lucky again.
Suspension work is one thing I just won't do with my cars. None of it makes any damn sense to me.
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I just bought about $600 in suspension parts, and I will probably tackle it this weekend. Front and rear struts, mounts, boots and bumpers, and front sway bar end links which. I'm actually looking forward to this job, which is surprising considering the control arm replacement i did about 2 years ago when I hated the world afterward.
I also bought some cheapo impact drivers and sockets from harbor freight to try making my day a bit easier. They seemed way underpowerd compared to their ratings, and I just bought a used ingersoll rand driver on ebay and will return the HF ones. Also, as with any time I do car repairs, I start going crazy reading about tools and trying to fill out my socket sets, etc. I have lots of hand-me-down craftsman tools, but reading around makes me not want to augment with the new craftsman stuff. However, being a bit of a dweeb about it, I also want matching sets. Oddly enough, last time I bought a few sockets I didn't have, they were actually made in USA. Maybe individual sockets are procured differently from sets?? Maybe I could get lucky again.
Suspension work is one thing I just won't do with my cars. None of it makes any damn sense to me.
peripheral stuff like that is the only thing i feel comfortable working on. I am very hesitant to do anything engine or transmission related, mostly because I've never done that type of work before (i.e. timing belt. I don't trust myself not to fuck something up).
Also, I know you are a BMW guy. I know some models (the M models?) use milti link suspension instead of McPherson. Is this the case with yours?
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I just bought about $600 in suspension parts, and I will probably tackle it this weekend. Front and rear struts, mounts, boots and bumpers, and front sway bar end links which. I'm actually looking forward to this job, which is surprising considering the control arm replacement i did about 2 years ago when I hated the world afterward.
I also bought some cheapo impact drivers and sockets from harbor freight to try making my day a bit easier. They seemed way underpowerd compared to their ratings, and I just bought a used ingersoll rand driver on ebay and will return the HF ones. Also, as with any time I do car repairs, I start going crazy reading about tools and trying to fill out my socket sets, etc. I have lots of hand-me-down craftsman tools, but reading around makes me not want to augment with the new craftsman stuff. However, being a bit of a dweeb about it, I also want matching sets. Oddly enough, last time I bought a few sockets I didn't have, they were actually made in USA. Maybe individual sockets are procured differently from sets?? Maybe I could get lucky again.
Suspension work is one thing I just won't do with my cars. None of it makes any damn sense to me.
peripheral stuff like that is the only thing i feel comfortable working on. I am very hesitant to do anything engine or transmission related, mostly because I've never done that type of work before (i.e. timing belt. I don't trust myself not to fuck something up).
Also, I know you are a BMW guy. I know some models (the M models?) use milti link suspension instead of McPherson. Is this the case with yours?
Pretty sure mine's McPherson. With the proper tools I could probably take those on. It's figuring out what needs to be replaced and what its role in the grand scheme of things is that gets me. Moreover, most of the bushings, rods, and ends of my car can be replaced in an hour or so. I'd just as soon pay somebody $90 so I don't have to do it.
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I spent a week driving over 2k miles around florida in a 2017 Mustang:
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DeC_n_VX0AIEkui.jpg)
It was a base model, but still soooo much fun to drive especially while driving around Homestead Florida (which might as well been Alabama) as no one was around on the long straight flat roads. Makes me really want to get one now, but my GF is very much against it as she thinks (and kind of knows) I will get in trouble. Driving my 2010 Civic now makes me sad.
This is why I’m getting mustang. They are so fun. I’m going for the v8 gt premium with all the goodies and I can’t wait!!!
I didn’t know you were in homestead. There is a good winery down there as well as an amazing fruit stand.
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I flew past a winery so that might have been it
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I'm kind of not sure what to do today. I put my Mini on Craigslist last night and said what the problem with it was. I put a price on it of $1000 and said the buyer was responsible for transporting it. Since posting it at 10:15 last night, I've had 14 people ask me if they could come look at the car.
Truth be told, I really don't want to be bothered. I figured it'd take weeks for me to find the one interested buyer.
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I'm kind of not sure what to do today. I put my Mini on Craigslist last night and said what the problem with it was. I put a price on it of $1000 and said the buyer was responsible for transporting it. Since posting it at 10:15 last night, I've had 14 people ask me if they could come look at the car.
Truth be told, I really don't want to be bothered. I figured it'd take weeks for me to find the one interested buyer.
Most likely people are wanting to part it out, and depending on the mileage a grand might be a steal. If you just want rid of it give it to the first guy with ten bills. If you want money for it, put it on eBay for a week and let those 14 people fight it out.
It's also possible that they thing the problem has been misdiagnosed, which is a possibility. Doesn't really matter, though.
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I'm kind of not sure what to do today. I put my Mini on Craigslist last night and said what the problem with it was. I put a price on it of $1000 and said the buyer was responsible for transporting it. Since posting it at 10:15 last night, I've had 14 people ask me if they could come look at the car.
Truth be told, I really don't want to be bothered. I figured it'd take weeks for me to find the one interested buyer.
Most likely people are wanting to part it out, and depending on the mileage a grand might be a steal. If you just want rid of it give it to the first guy with ten bills. If you want money for it, put it on eBay for a week and let those 14 people fight it out.
It's also possible that they thing the problem has been misdiagnosed, which is a possibility. Doesn't really matter, though.
I think either one is reasonably likely. I know a guy that buys Toyota Tacos for cash, just because. He's got about seven or eight of them in his yard in varying degrees of disassembly, and every couple weeks he puts a running, operating truck up for about three to five times what he paid for the parts trucks. My stepson is in the latter group. "I can fix THAT!", though not with Mini's; he's a VW/BMW guy.
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21 people have now reached out asking to come see it.
I've never had to fill out a bill of sale for a car before. Who is able to declare a car totaled? I was quoted $11K to fix the Mini, and the car was only worth $5Kish. In my mind that's a total loss. Can I say the car is for salvage on the bill of sale?
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That much interest tells me you under priced it, but how could you know that ahead of time? Maybe tell them each (or maybe a few that seem most serious) that you have a lot of interest and to give their best offer. Go back around with the best offer and see if anyone cares to beat it.
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21 people have now reached out asking to come see it.
I've never had to fill out a bill of sale for a car before. Who is able to declare a car totaled? I was quoted $11K to fix the Mini, and the car was only worth $5Kish. In my mind that's a total loss. Can I say the car is for salvage on the bill of sale?
What are you thinking? I don't know that it makes a difference either way, and regardless of what you put on the bill of sale, the buyer is going to pay taxes on the book value, not the sale value. I don't see what benefit you have writing "salvage" on the bill of sale. If you give the buyer a receipt, certainly write "AS IS - No warranty or returns" on it, but other than that... were you clear in the Craigslist ad that it did not run for you?
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21 people have now reached out asking to come see it.
I've never had to fill out a bill of sale for a car before. Who is able to declare a car totaled? I was quoted $11K to fix the Mini, and the car was only worth $5Kish. In my mind that's a total loss. Can I say the car is for salvage on the bill of sale?
What are you thinking? I don't know that it makes a difference either way, and regardless of what you put on the bill of sale, the buyer is going to pay taxes on the book value, not the sale value. I don't see what benefit you have writing "salvage" on the bill of sale. If you give the buyer a receipt, certainly write "AS IS - No warranty or returns" on it, but other than that... were you clear in the Craigslist ad that it did not run for you?
This is my listing.
https://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/d/mini-cooper-needs-motor-work/6609204021.html
As far as what to put on the BOS, I new to the process and am rather clueless when it comes to what kind of liability I might have given what I put down.
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That much interest tells me you under priced it, but how could you know that ahead of time? Maybe tell them each (or maybe a few that seem most serious) that you have a lot of interest and to give their best offer. Go back around with the best offer and see if anyone cares to beat it.
I've sent a few people screenshots of my flooded inbox and asked if they're willing to go higher than $1000. I think a lot of the responses are bots that just scour craiglist for any car below a certain price.
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Hello
I am interest in you " Mini Cooper - Needs motor work - $1000 ". Please send address so I can arrange for courier to pick up the "Mini Cooper - Needs motor work - $1000" and bring you cashier check.
Thank you,
*Generic name*
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That's actually not too far off :lol
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You have a fair number of junkyards/used parts lots near you, Chino. It wouldn't surprise me at all if that was the case, especially with your car, not being hit or anything. Maybe not to you, but in terms of a yard, that car is a valuable item.
You might want to call someone like Tom's over in Waterbury and ask what they'd pay for your car, for shits and giggles.
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I called a number of junkyards. The most I was offered was $750. It's worth plenty in parts if you're willing to sell it over time.
I needed a new driver door and a new quarter panel (scraped a column in my parking garage) and it was $700 for the two out of a junkyard.
On the mini I'm dumping, you could sell;
- Both doors
- Rear boot lid
- Heated seats
- Airbags
- Roof Rack
- Radio
- Hood
- Bumpers
- Side mirrors
- Upgraded climate control system
- Wheels
- Both Headlights
- Both Tail lights
You could sell the doors for $1000 alone. I just don't have anywhere to keep it, nor do I want to be bothered with parting it out.
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If I were chino I would’ve asked a lot more. While there a lot of bots and scammers on Craigslist you could probably ask for more money andnifnanything lower the price if you haggle. I’m not sure with the laws in your state but you just write the BOS for the amount you sold it, chances are the new buyer will have to pay taxes based on the bluebook value of the car. This is to prevent people from attempting to skirt paying sales tax on a car because the seller wrote them a BOS for $10.
Also make sure you write as is on the BOS. As far as salvaging the title that is not something you can do, your insurance would file that depending on the s age done on the car, once the car has a salavage title it will not be able to be registered until it gets a rebuilt title which usually involves your states dmv inspecting the vehicle for the appropriate repairs.
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I called a number of junkyards. The most I was offered was $750. It's worth plenty in parts if you're willing to sell it over time.
I needed a new driver door and a new quarter panel (scraped a column in my parking garage) and it was $700 for the two out of a junkyard.
On the mini I'm dumping, you could sell;
- Both doors
- Rear boot lid
- Heated seats
- Airbags
- Roof Rack
- Radio
- Hood
- Bumpers
- Side mirrors
- Upgraded climate control system
- Wheels
- Both Headlights
- Both Tail lights
You could sell the doors for $1000 alone. I just don't have anywhere to keep it, nor do I want to be bothered with parting it out.
There's a joke involving a traffic cone in there somewhere.... :)
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I called a number of junkyards. The most I was offered was $750. It's worth plenty in parts if you're willing to sell it over time.
I needed a new driver door and a new quarter panel (scraped a column in my parking garage) and it was $700 for the two out of a junkyard.
On the mini I'm dumping, you could sell;
- Both doors
- Rear boot lid
- Heated seats
- Airbags
- Roof Rack
- Radio
- Hood
- Bumpers
- Side mirrors
- Upgraded climate control system
- Wheels
- Both Headlights
- Both Tail lights
You could sell the doors for $1000 alone. I just don't have anywhere to keep it, nor do I want to be bothered with parting it out.
Everything save for the engine core is sellable on your car. Each window switch in that car is worth 10-15 bones. I've bought a used turn signal stalk off of eBay. Somewhere out there is a guy whose cup holder is broken that'll shell out $25 for another. There are a whole lot of trim pieces on cars nowadays. The transmission, depending on the mileage, could be the big ticket item. Somewhere out there is a guy whose cup holder is broken that'll shell out $25 for another. And while the engine is most likely toast, there are a ton of parts on that engine that people would be interested in. Manifolds, for example. Shops that reman cylinder heads would probably like that one as a core. It's just a matter of somebody having the time and room to part it out piecemeal.
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And that's why Chino only got a $750 offer; because the average dude is NOT going to put in that effort, stock those parts, advertise those parts and deal with the "customer" side of things. The junkyard is, and they're giving you a price sight unseen, as-is.
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I started the suspension job this morning. Rear shocks were a breeze, and my $27 ebay impact driver has already demonstrated its value. The large bolt holding the bottom of the shock to the suspension arm would have taken me all damn morning with hand tools. Once i broke the torque, it still needed power to back it all the way out. my 3 gallon compressor barely keeps up and has to recharge before i get the 5 lugs off the wheels, but its totally adequate for what im doing. On to the front end.
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What kind of suspension setup do you have on the front?
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MacPherson.
This car owned my ass yesterday.
I knew there was a leaky CV boot on the left side and I figured I would seal it up while i was under there. However, all the maneuvering of the steering knuckle to remove the strut pulled on the boot enough to open the crack further, which caused a crap load of grease to leak out*. Further, the nut holding the sway bar end link to the sway bar would not budge. It's a crimped nut which grips the stud pretty hard, and it faces inboard so i couldnt give it a blast with the impact driver, which i was able to do with the upper nut.
Getting the strut out required a tool like this:
(https://raceland.com/media/blog/strut_spreader/strut_spreader.jpg)
but I made this from an 8mm hex key:
(https://i.imgur.com/HCUSzLA.png)
(Only this picture is mine.)
so I could do this:
(https://www.billswebspace.com/North%20American%20Motoring%20-%20View%20Single%20Post%20-%20Bilstein%20SP%20Front%20Strut%20Install%20from%20Hell_files/DSCN0678.JPG)
Opening that clamp, plus removing the 3 bolts holding the upper mount to the frame allowed me to remove the whole strut assembly. I disassembled the strut to get the spring off and onto the new strut and bearing/mount assembly. This went without a hitch, surprisingly, since I had my impact driver to tighten the threaded spring compressor tool i rented:
(https://procarreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/Best-Strut-Spring-Compressor-For-Cars-750x408.jpg)
With a ratchet, it would have taken me at least a half hour and killed my arms. I put the new assembly in, but not without murdering the CV boot and draining more grease out. Each flex of the boot ingested air, and the reverse motion squeezed out more grease*. Eventually the strut was in place. Of the 3 screws on top, i cross threaded one :loser: and snapped the head off another when my torque wrench either didn't click, or i didn't notice :facepalm: :loser: :facepalm:.
It was at this point I decided I should stop before i dug myself deeper. I called the volvo mechanic I visited last month and told him about the CV joint and asked if it was safe to drive so I could drop it off at his shop. He said it should be ok as long as the joint bearings are in place properly. I will have him check out and repair the CV joint monday, install the right strut and end links.
After that, I called a bunch of auto supply shops, hardware stores and a volvo dealer to try locating the top mount bolts that I ruined. One hardware store had the correct size and strength (M8X1.25 10.9), but wrong length. The volvo dealer said the nearest one was in Westport, CT, which is about an hour drive from me. I couldnt believe I was about to drive an hour for 2 bolts, but that's what i planned to do. Later that night, i just figured I could buy the hardware store bolt until i ordered the right one. I would have to visit CT another time. Since there are plenty of threads past the nut on the strut mount, and the new bolt is the required strength, I could just leave them on there. However they are black oxide and I'm not sure of their rust resistance.
As for the snapped one (the rest of the bolt was still in the mount), since the mount had a tapped through hole, the tip of the bolt stuck through under the wheel well. I got a tiny needle nose in there somehow (I thought i would have to take the whole strut assembly out) and about 5 degrees at a time, was able to thread the remainder of the bolt out. I installed the 2 new bolts (the last 2 in the store) and was done with it. Part of me still wants to replace the right strut myself, but I don't want to dig another hole and I will just let a pro do it. At least I can limp it there.
*CV joint grease is pretty thick stuff. When I used words like "dripping" and "spilling", the mechanic seemed puzzled. I searched a bit about these CV joints, and happened to come across a rebuild where someone mentioned water mixing with the grease, making it the consistency of thick motor oil. The boot must have ingested a bunch of water which thinned it out to the point where it could drip. I hope I don't have to replace the whole thing. They are almost $600 each for OEM, however I see some random brand on rock auto for like $45. Makes no sense.
TL;DR- Replaced left front strut, but cross threaded and snapped 2 bolts and had to get new ones. Tore open inner CV boot and lost lots of grease. Decided to cut my losses and have a pro finish right strut and fix CV joint.
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Your story reminds me of my experience doing the front struts on my bmw. I was wise enough to just buy new strut assembly (McPherson struts as well) because I know if I tried to do it piecemeal I'd lose my sanity.
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I couldn't find pre built kits for my car, unfortunately. I expected that to be the hard part, but it turned out to be no problem anyway. All these other unpredictable problems popped up.
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Update: Spent Saturday feeling dejected, and mulled over the situation repeatedly. I decided to finish the job myself, and after little more than an hour Sunday I replaced the right front strut with no issues at all. The CV boot issue remains, so I sealed the crack with a bunch of bathroom caulk and duct tape, and dropped the car off at a Volvo shop Sunday night. I feel much better completing what i planned on. Now I'm waiting for a call this morning from the mechanic.
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Keep us posted jasc.
New car news for me, unless something comes up this week I"m going to submit my order for my new car this Saturday. This will be the first new car I've ever bought I'm and super fucking excited.
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Keep us posted jasc.
New car news for me, unless something comes up this week I"m going to submit my order for my new car this Saturday. This will be the first new car I've ever bought I'm and super fucking excited.
Mustang?
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Yup. I’m going to go to a few other delears and take a few more cars for a spin but I’m pretty set on the mustang. I’m doing the gt premium with performance package one and all options.
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Yup. I’m going to go to a few other delears and take a few more cars for a spin but I’m pretty set on the mustang. I’m doing the gt premium with performance package one and all options.
Fuck that.
Go Shelby.
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My buddies are trying to convince to do the roush package but it’s another $6k and I would’ve have my car for even longer.
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I honestly don't get the point of the Roush besides just being able to say you have it. The Mustang isn't designed for anywhere near that power. Trying to use the engine to its full potential is handicapped by basically everything else in the car. It actually becomes a chore to drive.
The mustangs are really fun cars. But if you're really looking to put that kind of power down, I think you'll be disappointed.
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Well that’s what I was thinking. There was a brief moment I was considering leasing a hellcat challenger as it’s monthly price is the same as my finance cost of the mustang. I just don’t like the looks as much and 700hp is a bit overkill. The gt is even overkill but I love he sound of the v8
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Update: Spent Saturday feeling dejected, and mulled over the situation repeatedly. I decided to finish the job myself, and after little more than an hour Sunday I replaced the right front strut with no issues at all. The CV boot issue remains, so I sealed the crack with a bunch of bathroom caulk and duct tape, and dropped the car off at a Volvo shop Sunday night. I feel much better completing what i planned on. Now I'm waiting for a call this morning from the mechanic.
My appreciation and admiration for you knows no bounds at this point. That's my kind of guy, right there. Get the job done, hook or by crook.
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Well that’s what I was thinking. There was a brief moment I was considering leasing a hellcat challenger as it’s monthly price is the same as my finance cost of the mustang. I just don’t like the looks as much and 700hp is a bit overkill. The gt is even overkill but I love he sound of the v8
My father-in-law and brother-in-law have Challengers (well, BIL has a Charger) and my stepson is trying to egg one of them on to get a Hellcat. That's an assload of car right there. It is overkill, but like my grandma always said, if it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing.
I remember I crashed my 280Z into a tree back in '89 (I yearn for that car today) and had to buy something, and it was down to a '82 320i (First gen E21) or an '85 Mustang with the V8. On a straight line that Mustang was hot, but if I had to make ANY turns, it was as loose as... you can use your own analogy there. I might have been gunshy after my crash, but I thought the Mustang would be my last car ever if I bought it so I went with the BMW.
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Update: Spent Saturday feeling dejected, and mulled over the situation repeatedly. I decided to finish the job myself, and after little more than an hour Sunday I replaced the right front strut with no issues at all. The CV boot issue remains, so I sealed the crack with a bunch of bathroom caulk and duct tape, and dropped the car off at a Volvo shop Sunday night. I feel much better completing what i planned on. Now I'm waiting for a call this morning from the mechanic.
My appreciation and admiration for you knows no bounds at this point. That's my kind of guy, right there. Get the job done, hook or by crook.
Thats really encouraging to hear, since I was questioning my self worth as a human being by the end of the first day, lol.
Maybe I mentioned it in the first post on this subject, but I gave the mechanic a heads-up friday afternoon, so he was actually prepared to work on it Monday morning. I gave him a list of 4 items:
1) CV boots (I noticed cracking on the right axle boot too), and likely a rebuild.
2) Sway bar end links (I just could not get the nuts to budge, even with the old two-wrench cheater bar. Its funny watching youtube videos of people taking them off with an 8 inch box wrench and 4 inch allen key.)
(https://volvohowto.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/volvo_how_to_tutorials_links4.jpg)
3) Wheel alignment
4) Re-seal body seam on drivers side floor. This is because I have had my carpeting removed for almost 2 months due to a leaky sun roof drain, and my feet have rubbed some of the sealant off.
He was able to complete items 1 2 and 3 on Monday, and told me to just use some RTV silicone on the floor seam, which I did yesterday during lunch at work (fortunately we have a well stocked general shop here). Both axles were reconditioned and greased with new boots, end links replaced, and alignment completed. There is really only a toe adjustment for front and rear, however there is enough clearance in the upper strut mount holes to allow some camber adjustment. The mechanic uses an alignment shop down the block from him, and he spoke very highly of them. They were able to get camber, caster and toe within spec. All for $565. Since an alignment anywhere is about $100, I figure $465 isn't bad for "new" axles. Buying new non-Volvo axles would have cost about $700 (new Volvo axles are like $600 each..), and that's installing them myself.
All in, this weekend's repair adventures cost just shy of $1200. And I still have to do the timing belt... :mehlin
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Bleghh. What’s the timing belt service like on the Volvo. I remember doing the belt in my golf years ago and it was was a huge pain in the ass.
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I've read about it ad nauseum, and I know exactly what to do. However, if I fuck something up like i did with the suspension, it wont be as easy to recover from. I would end up having to have it towed, or something.
The tensioner pulley also looks finicky. There is an eccentric bolt with some indicators that need to align properly before tightening. I think this might also be temperature dependent*. I Figure I could mark the current belt with corresponding teeth on the cam and crank pulleys then transfer those marks to the new belts, but there are prob a dozen ways that could go wrong that i can't even think of.
*Edit:
(https://i.imgur.com/wLcOmsx.jpg)
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I marked the belt when I did the change, I used red nail polish and it worked well. I don't envy you Jasc, it was a huge pain
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So work car (04 Prius) took a shit on me a few weeks ago and has been out of commission. Someone from my main office was supposed to pick it up and bring me another car (car runs and drives). He came up and left without the car saying it wouldn't start (Which I call BS on as it started right up the next day).
Finally Tuesday, big boss man was up for meetings, and decided to have me take the car in. I wanted to take it to the Toyota Dealer (as it's an issue with the hybrid system... and I know you don't want people fucking with it unless they know what they're doing).
Nope. An employee suggests an independent shop he goes to. Boss says take it there. ASAP.
ANNNNNNND battery was dead. So yesterday morning, we jumped it, and then had it towed to the next town over to this shop. We had already given them details of the problem over the phone, so a guy (who I just learned is the new owner) took the key and my info, and said he'd call me.
That was 9AM yesterday. Finally at noon today, I called them as I never got a call back. The woman in the office told me that they checked the issue out first thing in the morning (they open at 7:30 AM) and that she could call me back in 10 minutes with a quote. I asked if she could email me the details and the quote, so I can forward it out to my boss word for word. She said sure and took and verified my email address as well as phone number (my personal number, not the office number, so I know I can deal with this as soon as possible).
It's now 1:30 and no call, no email.
Am I being impatient or is my frustration valid? Literally all they have to do is run the code and tell me what it says.
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Little from column A, little from column B. But mostly A. Everything you're describing is pretty normal. If the tech had already diagnosed it and the gal was supposed to email it right away I'd certainly follow up, though. More likely he hadn't pulled the codes and she was bullshitting you. Or, she might have left for the day. That happened to me a couple of months ago.
Two things I'll throw out. One, running the codes doesn't tell you "replace this part and it'll be fine." It tells you what's happening and then you have to figure out why. Some are certainly more informative than others, but they're very seldom conclusive. Think of it as going to the doctor because you feel like death. He takes some blood and some wiz and has it tested. "Oh, looks like your red blood cell count is way too low." OK, what does that mean? "Oh, any number of things, really." And how do we fix it? "Well, that depends on what's causing it, of course." You now know very generally what's wrong, but why and what to do about it still are still question marks.
The second thing is that you might not have had any better experience dealing with the Toyota dealer. Their communication is often times really crappy, and it takes some time to get to all of the cars they lined up. Then you have to sort out what the actual problem is and all of the other problems that they think they see.
Car repairs always suck.
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I wanted to take it to the Toyota Dealer (as it's an issue with the hybrid system... and I know you don't want people fucking with it unless they know what they're doing).
This is whats keeping me from getting a hybrid. We bought a new car about a year and a half ago and I briefly considered a hybrid then, but decided against it. A few years ago, my reason was that the technology wasn't mature enough, but I can't use that excuse anymore.. However, that is still partially true when it comes to servicing. Industry is very slow to change, and auto repair shops other than dealers won't likely have hybrid familiarity for probably a decade or more.
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I wanted to take it to the Toyota Dealer (as it's an issue with the hybrid system... and I know you don't want people fucking with it unless they know what they're doing).
This is whats keeping me from getting a hybrid. We bought a new car about a year and a half ago and I briefly considered a hybrid then, but decided against it. A few years ago, my reason was that the technology wasn't mature enough, but I can't use that excuse anymore.. However, that is still partially true when it comes to servicing. Industry is very slow to change, and auto repair shops other than dealers won't likely have hybrid familiarity for probably a decade or more.
I have it on good account that even the dealers that sell those vehicles don't yet have a good understanding of those machines. Yeah, we have codes, yeah, cars are more complicated than they ever were, but even so, there is 75 years of experience in terms of what el Barto was saying about "finding the cause". You can tell by sounds, how it runs, what it smells like, etc. etc. and get to an answer. The four-stroke engine isn't rocket science. But with some of these hybrids, you are now in uncharted territory, and the guys with 40 years experience are just as in the dark as the new kid fresh out of tech school. I know in talking to my son, he hates them because to him it's "not working on a car", it's like working on a refrigerator. Just another appliance.
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I have it on good account that even the dealers that sell those vehicles don't yet have a good understanding of those machines.
Yeah, I don't doubt that at all. Maybe they at least have better access to the mothership where the folks who do understand it reside. Maybe not. Perhaps I still have some false impression of dealers that, while they are usually 50-100% more expensive, they are better equipped to deal with make-specific issues.
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I have it on good account that even the dealers that sell those vehicles don't yet have a good understanding of those machines.
Yeah, I don't doubt that at all. Maybe they at least have better access to the mothership where the folks who do understand it reside. Maybe not. Perhaps I still have some false impression of dealers that, while they are usually 50-100% more expensive, they are better equipped to deal with make-specific issues.
Oh, I absolutely agree with you on that last point, generally, but I think hybrids specifically are a different breed. It's new to EVERYBODY to some degree. My beef with dealers isn't their knowledge, but their motivations. My son's bosses aren't former mechanics, but business-men. Your local shop? The ultimate boss is likely a mechanic first and a reluctant business man second.
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A close friend's father managed the service department of a Nissan dealer at a time I was buying an Altima. Even being a friend, and even being in service rather than sales, he still took their side to some extent when I was trying to negotiate my price. That's when I realized that service departments are just another arm of sales for a dealer.
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A close friend's father managed the service department of a Nissan dealer at a time I was buying an Altima. Even being a friend, and even being in service rather than sales, he still took their side to some extent when I was trying to negotiate my price. That's when I realized that service departments are just another arm of sales for a dealer.
Yup. That's not entirely a bad thing, though. My mom took her car to a Nissan dealer 45 miles away and their diagnosis was likely to run up to about $3k. A bent crossbeam had pushed the radiator back damaging the radiator, condenser, and a few other things. Her service salesman (advisor is bullshit) actually worked out a very comprehensive quote using aftermarket parts and cut their labor rate down to that of an independent ($85/hr). She was out about $1700 when it was all said and done, and that included some other work as well. He told her that maintenance, while not exactly a loss-leader, wasn't there to make tons of money. They were there to build loyalty. If they can get rich at the same time that's great, but not at the expense of a potential longterm customer.
Having said that, I don't think there's anyway I talk a dealer into using aftermarket parts. A lot of this was very likely the little old lady factor.
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Last week I noticed one of my engine mounts was shot. Its consistent with a particular rattle sound i hear coming from that side of the engine bay during idle. I got an OEM part on amazon for $98 and will prob change it out this coming weekend. In the process, since it is right near the timing belt and actually needs to be removed to replace it, I will do bit of a dry run and get a good look at tool clearances, etc.
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Update on my work Prius:
Finally got a response from the shop later that day. They said hybrid battery (as well as the aux battery) needed to be replaced.
Sent my boss the quote... he had a mini heart attack.... 10 minutes later he's calling me telling me that his mechanic will do it for $1k less. So Friday another employee and I picked up the car from the shop, paid the $50 diagnostic fee, and then drove it the 70 miles to this other shop with the check engine light and the massive hybrid system warning light flashing, dropped it off, caught a ride to our main office, and drove back with what looks like an identical Prius (Just a year newer and 10k miles less).
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Yikes. So what's the bill for hybrid battery replacement?
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Yikes. So what's the bill for hybrid battery replacement?
So the first shop is charging $2800 total for the hybrid battery and aux battery including labor.
My boss's shop will do it for like $1700.
First shop would be using a refurbed battery. Boss's shop will put in a certified "used" battery.
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This is my current project vehicle, a 1995 Chevy G20 Gladiator with a 350 V8. My late Grandpa bought it new in April, 1996, he passed away in June, 1999, 2 months latter with 31k miles on the clock my Grandma traded it in for a car.
17 years and two different owners latter, in October 2016, with the help of it's vin number which I had found on her dealership paperwork and my states free internal vin check service, I found out it had recently been traded into a used car business which was named in the vin report, (up until then all the report would say was "Private Owner"), and I ended up buying it back from them with 124k miles on the clock. It's got tons of sentimental value and I'm glad to have it back.
It's a little strange yet cool listening on it's radio to Dream Theater or any other music I got into after 1999, because I don't mentally associate the Chevy with those bands or songs, because of my set in stone memories of it as a kid in the late 90s.
I've been doing alot of work fixing it up, just finished replacing the exhaust with new Walker piping and a Flowmaster Super 44, now it's on to replacing the rear drum brakes.
Me, 5, the day Grandpa surprised me with it after school.:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1838/42043792565_01e2d141ca_c.jpg)
January 2017:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1781/42227109714_8398c8ec55_c.jpg)
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Damn that thing looks like it's in good shape still.
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That's so cool. Any pics of the interior/back area?
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That's so cool. Any pics of the interior/back area?
Sorry, that view is reserved exclusively for the ladies.
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That's a bad-ass van, and a bad-ass story. Very cool.
I've been on that kick a little myself. I need a second car (kids!) and started looking for my favorite car growing up - the Datsun Z-car (260, 280, not the 300 or later) - and it's ridiculous. First, it seems like it must have been a law requiring owners to shoe-horn small block Detroit engines into those cars. No thanks. The original Datsun six cylinder engines were more than adequate, and moved that car pretty good. It's a heavy car to start with, and ramming that engine in there can't be that big a performance boom. I think it's testosterone, frankly. Then I looked for my first car ever, a huge Buick Centurian convertible, with a 455 V8. Because of the convertible, it too was a heavy car, with the reinforced A-frame. It was 0-60 in about 7.5 - 8 days, but it would also cruise for 1000 miles at 75 without breaking a sweat. Hard to find in any kind of decent shape, and forget about trying to get a top in mint condition without tapping the college fund.
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Gah
One of the first things I'd do if I became wealthy overnight would be to find myself a '80 280 and restore it. Black with red interior.
My first car memories are cruising around in that with my dad when I was little. I used to think it looked like a space ship, and would pretend to be my dad's copilot on a ship fighting the Borg.
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Damn that thing looks like it's in good shape still.
I need to fix some rust, mainly under the bay windows and a few other spots, but it's held up better than others I've seen.
That's a bad-ass van, and a bad-ass story. Very cool.
Thanks! There's a new show on Velocity you might like called JDM legends, they worked on an older 240Z. I agree I think the original engine or at least an engine from the same manufacturer is best. Good luck on your search!
That's so cool. Any pics of the interior/back area?
It has the L05 throttle body injected 350
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/895/29079979808_6f27644fc3_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1801/42953269891_f44273ffee_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1803/42953264511_96faa646b1_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1788/42051754425_0e09a6c631_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/879/29080722408_8ce98baa00_c.jpg)[quote
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It's still so clean!
If you don't want to share, that's cool, but do you mind telling us what you bought it back for? Did you tell the dealership your story?
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Cool story and cool van.
@Stadler. If memory serves you and I had the exact same car. Silver 2x2 non-turbo with the T-tops. It wouldn't surprise me if the motor jobs were because the originals went up in smoke. That was not an engine that was going to get 300k and they're some old-ass cars. I know mine eventually seized up, and there were some chronic problems with the things. How many injectors did you have to replace? :lol
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It's still so clean!
If you don't want to share, that's cool, but do you mind telling us what you bought it back for? Did you tell the dealership your story?
It was $24,500 when new in 96, I got it for $1,350 out the door. Yeah I did, although it was a buy here pay here type place, it had that typical used car lot feel.
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Goddamn that's a good deal for something that looks as clean as it does.
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Elon Musk has said on Twitter that the Tesla pickup truck will have a 300,000 pound towing capacity... A Dodge Ram 3500 has a 31,000 pound capacity. I thought you couldn't exceed 80,000 pounds on roads?
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Elon Musk has said on Twitter that the Tesla pickup truck will have a 300,000 pound towing capacity... A Dodge Ram 3500 has a 31,000 pound capacity. I thought you couldn't exceed 80,000 pounds on roads?
You can't drive over 80 anywhere in America, but cars can routine exceed 130. He's just touting what his vehicles can actually do. Also, it's possible that farmers might be interested in the greater towing capacity.
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The Model S accelerates to 100kph in 2.3 seconds in Ludicrous mode. Thats 1.23 g's, or a thrust of 5716 lb (1.23g x 4647 lb).
A 300,000 lb trailer with rolling resistance of 0.02 (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/rolling-friction-resistance-d_1303.html), the required thrust is 6000 lb.
Sounds about right.
In theory, then, any car with a similar weight and acceleration performance could tow a 300,000 lb trailer.
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Cool story and cool van.
@Stadler. If memory serves you and I had the exact same car. Silver 2x2 non-turbo with the T-tops. It wouldn't surprise me if the motor jobs were because the originals went up in smoke. That was not an engine that was going to get 300k and they're some old-ass cars. I know mine eventually seized up, and there were some chronic problems with the things. How many injectors did you have to replace? :lol
Good call with the injectors; I went through them like popcorn. I also went through transmissions; I was on my third when I crashed. I forget how many miles I had on it... The only thing I was missing was the t-tops. I had the regular hard top roof (but the dude before me put in a sunroof).
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Cool story and cool van.
@Stadler. If memory serves you and I had the exact same car. Silver 2x2 non-turbo with the T-tops. It wouldn't surprise me if the motor jobs were because the originals went up in smoke. That was not an engine that was going to get 300k and they're some old-ass cars. I know mine eventually seized up, and there were some chronic problems with the things. How many injectors did you have to replace? :lol
Good call with the injectors; I went through them like popcorn. I also went through transmissions; I was on my third when I crashed. I forget how many miles I had on it... The only thing I was missing was the t-tops. I had the regular hard top roof (but the dude before me put in a sunroof).
T-tops were one of the dumbest ideas ever. You weren't missing much. I recall that my tranny was starting to go bad, but it didn't crap out before the rest of the car. Was your crash stupidity related? It sure seemed to bring out the worst in me. I never crashed mine but that kick-ass front end was mostly responsible for that. Probably saved my life once.
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Cool story and cool van.
@Stadler. If memory serves you and I had the exact same car. Silver 2x2 non-turbo with the T-tops. It wouldn't surprise me if the motor jobs were because the originals went up in smoke. That was not an engine that was going to get 300k and they're some old-ass cars. I know mine eventually seized up, and there were some chronic problems with the things. How many injectors did you have to replace? :lol
Good call with the injectors; I went through them like popcorn. I also went through transmissions; I was on my third when I crashed. I forget how many miles I had on it... The only thing I was missing was the t-tops. I had the regular hard top roof (but the dude before me put in a sunroof).
T-tops were one of the dumbest ideas ever. You weren't missing much. I recall that my tranny was starting to go bad, but it didn't crap out before the rest of the car. Was your crash stupidity related? It sure seemed to bring out the worst in me. I never crashed mine but that kick-ass front end was mostly responsible for that. Probably saved my life once.
Yeah, stupidity with a dash of dumb (bad) luck. Too much speed, not enough road. Lost control, overcorrected, and left the road (oddly, to the left; physics says I should have gone off the road to the right). At that point I lost steering and braking and momentum just took me into a tree head on. I walked away (broken nose, two black eyes, cuts on my legs, and bruises to my ego) and the cop wanted to give me a breath test because I told him I was driving. He was sure that the driver was in the car and couldn't have survived, but he couldn't with all the blood. I have pictures of the wreck; I'll try to post them.
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It's still so clean!
If you don't want to share, that's cool, but do you mind telling us what you bought it back for? Did you tell the dealership your story?
It was $24,500 when new in 96, I got it for $1,350 out the door. Yeah I did, although it was a buy here pay here type place, it had that typical used car lot feel.
That's a great deal for that van, even without the sentimental value you attached to it. I bet it's nice to have that car back, congrats!
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I am so stupid, so fucking stupid. Warning semi-long story ahead:
So not sure if anyone remembers but a few months back I ended up changing my water pump and oil filter gasket in my bmw. I had a small oil leak which is why I did the oil filter gasket. Well I finished and my car started leaking even more oil. I pretty much said fuck it, I getting rid of my car soon and I'm tired working on it. Today I'm doing an oil change and I go to reach for oil plug crush washer and realize it's different from the one I found on the garage floor a few months back. It then clicked! I opened my hood and saw one of the wiring harnesses was wearing away underneath the VANOS feed line. Turns out there are two crush washers on the VANOS nut, I only had one. I remember moving my car and seeing it on the floor, I just thought it was from an oil change I did previously and never saw it before.
I finished my oil change and put a clean paper towel under the nut and started my car, sure enough that's where the oil was coming from. Put a new washer on and hopefully no more leaks.
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Car died today. The engine is shot. Made it 110,000 miles so I'm not crazy surprised, but I wanted to ask:
Anyone ever salvage a car? Its shot so I don't want to mess around with trying to sell it. I just want it to go away. Do I just call a junkyard and sign the title over.
I was also thinking about just donating it to purple heart.
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You got it, call the junkyard and get it towed and sign over the title.
What car was it?
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Car died today. The engine is shot. Made it 110,000 miles so I'm not crazy surprised, but I wanted to ask:
Anyone ever salvage a car? Its shot so I don't want to mess around with trying to sell it. I just want it to go away. Do I just call a junkyard and sign the title over.
I was also thinking about just donating it to purple heart.
If the tax write-off is greater than what the junkyard will give you then do that. I'd call a few junkyards, though. They won't tell you anything concrete, but you should get a sense of what they're willing to pay. If it still has the original cats it'll make a huge difference in what they offer.
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Car died today. The engine is shot. Made it 110,000 miles so I'm not crazy surprised, but I wanted to ask:
Anyone ever salvage a car? Its shot so I don't want to mess around with trying to sell it. I just want it to go away. Do I just call a junkyard and sign the title over.
I was also thinking about just donating it to purple heart.
I donated a 2004 Chevy Cavalier to Cars (Kars) for Kids 5 years ago. The car ran fine, but the side was all smashed in from an accident. They parted it out and I got a letter a few months later confirming a $1,200 tax write off.
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I put my Mini with a blown engine on Craiglist.
I said "Mini cooper. Blown engine. $1000. Buyer is responsible for moving it"
I had 28 people reach out to me in 48 hours. I actually ended up selling it for $1300. First time I ever sold something for more than I listed it for on Craigslist. I wish I had listed it for $2000. I bet I could have gotten $1500+.
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Good call, Chino. I'm trying to do the same thing with my '98 Tacoma with a cracked frame.
The salvage market here isn't that hot. I had a 2002 Volvo S40 and best I could get was $200 if I brought it in, $150 if they picked it up. Depends on the car, of course, but not that much.
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Cruising through the local ford dealership sites like I do every other morning to see if any cars with my spec have shown up so I can cancel my order and grab the new car on the lot instead of waiting for my build.
I saw a used 2018 model that is exactly how I ordered my 2019 (except it's silver) with 2k miles. I'm thinking of checking it out Monday when I get back and if they take 36k I'll take it. I'd be saving 13K off my order and the only think I'd lose is taht it's not new, not the color I want and a 2018. It may be worth it for $13k savings.
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Thanks for all the advice guys.
You got it, call the junkyard and get it towed and sign over the title.
What car was it?
It was a 98 Toyota corolla. It served me very well. Made it to 110,000 miles.
From what I was able to put together is the Check oil light was faulty and the engine was leaking oil. At some point, it went almost totally empty and I was driving it like that and it destroyed the engine. So in the future, I am gonna just pull the dipstick every few weeks or so just for peace of mind on the next car.
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Cruising through the local ford dealership sites like I do every other morning to see if any cars with my spec have shown up so I can cancel my order and grab the new car on the lot instead of waiting for my build.
I saw a used 2018 model that is exactly how I ordered my 2019 (except it's silver) with 2k miles. I'm thinking of checking it out Monday when I get back and if they take 36k I'll take it. I'd be saving 13K off my order and the only think I'd lose is taht it's not new, not the color I want and a 2018. It may be worth it for $13k savings.
You might get charged some sort of processing/increased inventory fee for cancelling an order on a car that was already started. When I bought my Mini new, you'd typically have to wait 10-16 weeks for your car to be built/shipped. I took over an abandoned order and only had to wait 3 weeks. I remember the salesman telling me the owners that bailed on the order were charged a fee to do so.
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So the worst case is I lose my $1000 deposit, but since this dealer is within the delearship network I might try to talk my way out of it. I’m still undecided, I fucking hate silver as a car color.
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I’m still undecided, I fucking hate silver as a car color.
I feel like "car people" really don't like silver cars :lol Both cars I've bought have been silver and I always get crap for it from my friends who I consider to be "car people" which I am definitely not. I just fine silver to be the easiest color for looking clean and not attracting attention on the roads. I'm not sure the next car I get will be silver again though.
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I’ve seen some silver cars that look ok but I definitely don’t like it. Out of all the mustang colors I think silver looks the worst.
I will agree with you that silver is one of the easiest ways to keep clean.
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Yea, I wouldnt get a silver mustang. What color did you go with for your build? I like the black or blue on Mustangs personally.
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It was tough but I went with black. There is a color that they make for 350r’s called Lead Foot Gray:
(https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/lead-foot-gray-looks-smashing-on-2018-shelby-gt350-mustang-117218-7.jpg)
I wish I could’ve gotten that color, no stripes.
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Nice, the black goes well IMO
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Yea there were a few other colors I liked. They had a charcoal gray, white, blue. I liked burgundy but when I saw it in person it didn’t look good. It’s sort of why I’ll try the silver mustang out, who knows maybe it’ll look good in person.
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The past week, I feel like my truck has been falling apart. In reality, nothing bad has been happening and it's only two things, but I'm so particular and careful with it, that it feels like one thing after another.
1) Driving into work Saturday morning, a giant rock hit my windshield. It was a loud cracking noise, but I didn't see any damage to the windshield. I shrugged it off and considered it another victory and considered myself lucky. I go to work and carry on with my day. I leave work, get in the car and notice on the passenger side, there are three cracks starting at the bottom below the windshield wipers passenger side and going up to the middle of the windshield. Check for any other damage, only cracked the top layer of glass. Call insurance and repair company, they're coming to my work next Monday to replace the windshield.
2) Get home from work on Monday. Type in my garage code and wait for the door to go up. I look over at my truck and see a giant screw stuck in the middle of the tread on the driver's side tire. It's a 30 mile drive back to work the next day to go to the mechanic across from my store to do the repair. I know I could take it to a tire place and they do it for free, but I trust these guys.
Minor things, but I have a reputation at work for being meticulous with my truck and really do try to take care of everything so to have all of this stuff happen in a span of three days felt like the whole thing was falling apart :lol
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I’m still undecided, I fucking hate silver as a car color.
I feel like "car people" really don't like silver cars :lol Both cars I've bought have been silver and I always get crap for it from my friends who I consider to be "car people" which I am definitely not. I just fine silver to be the easiest color for looking clean and not attracting attention on the roads. I'm not sure the next car I get will be silver again though.
There are certain cars that should only ever come in silver, though.
(https://cdn.bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/58ebf72edacbf_IMG_06691-940x557.jpg)
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Thank god for carfax
Was going to go look at (and was planning to buy) a car today. 2013 honda civic. Low miles and reasonable price, but there was no available carfax on it, which almost every other car I have looked at online has had, so I ran the report myself.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/media.pinterest.com/previews/ORHCQfMO.png)
Not actual mileage...
Salvage...
No thanks. That just saved me thousands of dollars and a 45 min trip
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So update on my mustang drama. I went and checked the silver on out and I actually loved it. In person it's a great color and the car was flawless. I was going to buy it but it got sold out from me the morning of the day I was going to buy it. Turns out the Sales Manager (who I was working with) had a buyer already, called the buyer and he ran down and bought it, neither me or my sales guy knew about it. I knew it was fishy when I offered the sales manager a deposit to hold the car and he wouldn't take it.
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That's annoying that they wouldn't be upfront with you on that
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Talking to my buddy who worked at ford he told me this was common. If somebody was working on a sale and another sales guy has a potential buyer they’ll try to sabotage that sale and push their sale.
My sales guy had no idea his sales manager had anybody interested.
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I’m still undecided, I fucking hate silver as a car color.
I feel like "car people" really don't like silver cars :lol Both cars I've bought have been silver and I always get crap for it from my friends who I consider to be "car people" which I am definitely not. I just fine silver to be the easiest color for looking clean and not attracting attention on the roads. I'm not sure the next car I get will be silver again though.
There are certain cars that should only ever come in silver, though.
(https://cdn.bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/58ebf72edacbf_IMG_06691-940x557.jpg)
I don't know how I missed that the first time, but I would commit multiple felonies for that car. I LOVE those cars (unfortunately, Datsun - yes, that's who made it - put them out in pine green, piss yellow, pumpkin orange, and a shit brown. They had the worst original colors. https://zcarguide.com/datsun-280z-stock-paint-interior-colors-us-canada/
FYI, mine was "red" (what I called "pumpkin orange").
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I don't know why, but this gets under my skin in a big way: https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/companies/this-man-was-so-fed-up-trying-to-get-his-tesla-fixed-that-he-ended-up-doing-it-himself/ar-BBMy7GB?ocid=ientp
WTF did he expect? And oh, by the way, I've been doing that - without the whining, crying and complaining - since I was 19 and figured out how to turn a socket wrench. I call him a p****.
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Anyone here browse Bring a Trailer. I love checking the site from time to time and seeing some really interesting cars:
https://bringatrailer.com/
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There are some awesome cars there. Pretty cool site.
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Here's one for the dumb luck crowd:
Car's been taking just a beat longer to start each time for about a month or so. Other day, I go to get my stepson at school and it takes three, four seconds longer crank to start. I think nothing of it. I go to pick him up, we walk back to the car, and it's dead as a door nail. I got power, but not so much as a click of the solenoid under the hood.
I can't tap the starter beause it's packed under the manifold and air intake assembly, but above the block. I do a little research, and on that car (a '06 BMW X3) it's one of a couple things:
- battery (Nope; 11.6 V at the battery, low but ought to at least throw over the starter)
- solenoid (Haven't ruled it out)
- starter (Not likely; not even getting a click on the solenoid)
- fuses (Nope; checked each one)
- ground strap (Nope, visually checked it; it's off the exhaust to the frame. It's green-ish, not a great sign, but looks intact.)
- Ignition switch (haven't ruled it out)
- EWS, a security system on these cars (Ruled out the key side by using the spare key, nothing. That means it still could be the EWS module)
- the ECU (haven't ruled it out)
So I'm down to:
Solenoid; a $85 part, but I have to take the manifold and air intake off the engine, as well as relocate the engine compartment electronics. For a pro, about 2 hours work, for me, likely 3 at least, and that's if I can get the two special tools from my stepson.
Ignition switch; a $75 part, but I have to take apart the steering column, not the biggest deal, maybe an hour's job for me, but need a special tool.
EWS module: a $125 part (though less refurbished), but I need a dealer because it needs to be coded to the ECU and coded to the keys or it is useless. This means it's about $600 at least.
ECU module: over a $1250 part (though I can get them for about $750 refurbished), and I need a dealer because it needs to be coded by the dealer or it is useless. This means it's about $1500 at least.
So I get the car towed to my house, and I'm fucking around on Bimmerworld forums, and I see something about "ground straps", plural. I know what they are, and checked the one I knew about, but I didn't realize there are two of them on my car, the one off the exhaust to the frame, that I can see, and one off the engine to the frame, under the heat shield under the car. I also found out that a visual is not enough; if it's green, enough of the threads could be broken inside to make it effectively useless. So I figure, what do I have to lose and I go out, in the rain, shimmy my fat ass under the back, check the rear ground strap, and sure enough, tight as a drum. It ain't it. Go to the front, jack up the car, look at it, see where it connects to the frame and it's silver and looks intact. I can't reach it to pull it, but I am able to reach in the wheel well and touch it... and it falls to dust in my hand. Twenty minutes, a $16 cable from NAPA and a couple washers from Home Depot (the ends were different) and it fired up first try. I ordered legit ones from an aftermarket/OEM site (with the correct ends) and I'll replace the rear one just to not take the chance, but I'm glad I didn't have to involve the dealer (FYI, the $16 cable was $59 and change from the dealer.)
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11.6 is way low, and I'm actually surprised it would try and start at that point. I see 11.6 and I'm assuming that is the culprit. Sounds like you fixed the immediate problem, but I'd check that battery a couple of times now that it's properly grounded and see if it stays low.
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I'm actually starting to have some transmission issues. Seems like my car is slipping specifically with going from first to second gear and specifically early while driving. My coworker is very good with cars so I told him and drive him around to see, he thinks and checked that my transmission fluid is a bit low which would explain why the slipping stops happening once the car warms up. I got some Honda fluid that should be here today and will put some in to fill it up, but if this is the culprit, I guess the question then comes, where did the fluid go? Do I have some leak? He said that's a self contained system so you shouldn't typically run low on it. This also seemed to start happening after I drove through some flooded roads. Wondering if something happened during that.
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He is right, it's a closed system and shouldn't leak. I'd take a flashlight, jack the car up and look for fluid. Check the honda forums for typical leak locations. Also check your garage floor for leaks.
So in other news my mustang still hasn't started to be built yet. I'm starting to worry that I won't get it until January now. In the meantime I've started work on restoring my current car (bmw). The weather is nice and I'm finding myself bored on the weekends so I'm slowly redoing everything. This weekends agenda: find out why my rear defroster stopped working all of a sudden, sadly it's not the fuse :(
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11.6 is way low, and I'm actually surprised it would try and start at that point. I see 11.6 and I'm assuming that is the culprit. Sounds like you fixed the immediate problem, but I'd check that battery a couple of times now that it's properly grounded and see if it stays low.
It's funny you say that, because I thought 11.6 would at least give me a click, or even a whirr, even if it wasn't enough to actually turn over. At the VERY least, the dash lights would dim. Nothing like that. BUT, my stepson said that some of the BMWs have a relay that won't let the system fire under a certain amperage so that the non-mechanical circuits - like the ECU and EWS - don't get fried. (I know, I know, volts/amps, but Ohm's Law.). So yeah, I ruled it out and I shouldn't have. I haven't checked it since I did the work, but I'll throw a meter on it quick tomorrow.
But I did start the post with "dumb luck", so there's that.
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He is right, it's a closed system and shouldn't leak. I'd take a flashlight, jack the car up and look for fluid. Check the honda forums for typical leak locations. Also check your garage floor for leaks.
So in other news my mustang still hasn't started to be built yet. I'm starting to worry that I won't get it until January now. In the meantime I've started work on restoring my current car (bmw). The weather is nice and I'm finding myself bored on the weekends so I'm slowly redoing everything. This weekends agenda: find out why my rear defroster stopped working all of a sudden, sadly it's not the fuse :(
I haven't noticed and leakage from my car parked in the work lot when i leave at night or my drive way in the morning. I put some in this morning after letting the car run for awhile so it was hot, apparently I was told the enjoy should be warmed up before putting some in. Car drove the best it has this morning but then again, it was already warmed up which seems to be the case anyway so I can't seem to really say if there is an improvement just yet. I'm supposed to make the 4 hour drive to PA this weekend with my friend for the Metallica concert so it would be nice if this worked to just ease my mind. I don't think my car would have an issue with the drive, but I'd feel more comfortable about it not failing in the middle of no where.
And whats up with the delay in the mustang, do they give you a reason why its taking so long?
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You hear any clunking or is it just slipping?
Truth be told they aren’t too late with the car. They said it’d be around October when it starts getting built. Reading the forums and a whole lot goes into when and how they pick up your order. Dealer allocation is one thing and also they build packages together.
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I'm actually starting to have some transmission issues. Seems like my car is slipping specifically with going from first to second gear and specifically early while driving. My coworker is very good with cars so I told him and drive him around to see, he thinks and checked that my transmission fluid is a bit low which would explain why the slipping stops happening once the car warms up. I got some Honda fluid that should be here today and will put some in to fill it up, but if this is the culprit, I guess the question then comes, where did the fluid go? Do I have some leak? He said that's a self contained system so you shouldn't typically run low on it. This also seemed to start happening after I drove through some flooded roads. Wondering if something happened during that.
Your car is a '10, which means it very likely has some sort of manual shift mode. Maybe, move the PRNDL left and then +/-, up or down, or something like that (pretty sure that's how mine works). Excellent for diagnosing possible tranny problems. If it starts slipping again when it's cold, use that to make controlled shifts between 1st and 2nd and see if it's repeatable. Likewise, see if it happens going from 2nd to 3rd and so forth. Hell, start in 5th from a complete stop and see what happens.
There are dozens of things that will cause a tranny to slip when it's cold, and a fluid leak is the only one that isn't a catastrophe. At the same time, there are plenty of other things that feel like a transmission problem that aren't. Every time I've ever thought I was having transmission issues it turned out to be something different.
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Do you ever use that manual mode? I mean for real driving purposes.
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I could do that with the manual shift and see, and there is no noise.
And maybe it is something different but the only thing for sure was my transmission fluid was low for sure. After putting some in yesterday, it really did drive better, but there was still some slipping this morning (there wasn't any yesterday afternoon or evening) but not nearly as bad as it was previously. I checked my dipstick again and it looks like it's still a bit low so put a little more in. I guess I'll see if that makes a difference, but I am starting to think that low fluid was just part of maybe a larger problem.
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Do you ever use that manual mode? I mean for real driving purposes.
Rarely. When I was driving an Audi with the shift paddles I used it a fair amount. When I use it now is mostly if a cop shows up behind me I can downshift to control my speed without hitting the brakes.
I could do that with the manual shift and see, and there is no noise.
And maybe it is something different but the only thing for sure was my transmission fluid was low for sure. After putting some in yesterday, it really did drive better, but there was still some slipping this morning (there wasn't any yesterday afternoon or evening) but not nearly as bad as it was previously. I checked my dipstick again and it looks like it's still a bit low so put a little more in. I guess I'll see if that makes a difference, but I am starting to think that low fluid was just part of maybe a larger problem.
This is generally the case. When ATF heats up it expands, creating more volume and therefore more pressure. So any any internal faults causing problems aren't as bad once there's "more" ATF spinning around in there. When the car cools down the ATF "lessens" and the problems are back.
And I'm sure your buddy told you this, but you have to make sure the car is hot when you check the ATF, for the reason I just gave.
Sometimes just having the tranny serviced (properly serviced) will make problems better. A bad filter will certainly foul things up. Sometimes it'll make the problem worse (older ATF is thicker, so new, thinner fluid wont' be as effective at mitigating the problem). That's really a crapshoot.
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Yea, that's what my understanding was (and I added it while hot). We will see. I don't plan on putting any serious money into this car, if it's just the fluid that's no issue, but if I need to get a mechanic involved, I'll most likely just part ways with it as its not worth the hassle and money to me at this point and I am financially ready to buy another car. Although, when I get my oil changed again next month I can look into their transmission services and if things are better or still the same, I can try that out.
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Getting some work done on my truck today and getting it ready for winter. New tires, new brakes and rotors for the rear brakes, a remote start is getting put on, and an oil change and inspection.
Did a lot of research on tires and looked at what the dealership offered for my truck. Ended up going with Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs. When I set up the appointment to get the work done, the salesman tried talking me out of them. Wanted me to go with Goodyear Wrangler Adventures. They were cheaper and that's what he had on his truck. I initially decided to go with his suggestion, but I did more research and the Adventures aren't even rated for snow, which is my biggest concern and need for the All-Terrain tires since we spend a lot of time in snow here in Minnesota. Then I found out that the Adventures are the stock tire on F-150s now, so I didn't really want to get a stock tire to replace the stock tire and the reviews weren't that good for them.
I know maybe it was dumb to go against his suggestion, but I felt more comfortable with the Duratracs. Sure, they are a tad bit more of an aggressive tire, but I just liked what I read. They did well on dry pavement, rain, and are rated for severe snow.
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Getting some work done on my truck today and getting it ready for winter. New tires, new brakes and rotors for the rear brakes, a remote start is getting put on, and an oil change and inspection.
Did a lot of research on tires and looked at what the dealership offered for my truck. Ended up going with Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs. When I set up the appointment to get the work done, the salesman tried talking me out of them. Wanted me to go with Goodyear Wrangler Adventures. They were cheaper and that's what he had on his truck. I initially decided to go with his suggestion, but I did more research and the Adventures aren't even rated for snow, which is my biggest concern and need for the All-Terrain tires since we spend a lot of time in snow here in Minnesota. Then I found out that the Adventures are the stock tire on F-150s now, so I didn't really want to get a stock tire to replace the stock tire and the reviews weren't that good for them.
I know maybe it was dumb to go against his suggestion, but I felt more comfortable with the Duratracs. Sure, they are a tad bit more of an aggressive tire, but I just liked what I read. They did well on dry pavement, rain, and are rated for severe snow.
Gotta go with the tires you're comfortable with. If you notice a difference it really matters. The previous owner of my car put Pilots on it, like all good BMW owners, and they're great. When it came time to replace them (way too soon because of a tie-rod end) I decided to save a few hundred by going with Continentals (the Extreme Contact DWS line is the stock tire for 3-series). They're the highest rated tire at TireRack.com for my car and everybody loves them. I had them installed on a Friday afternoon, and Saturday morning 11:00 I'm at the store demanding they be taken off my fucking car. Those things were terrible. The sidewalls were so flimsy a canoe would have been more stable. I was afraid to drive on them (and I'm a fairly fearless driver). Tires I was comfortable driving on were worth far more than the ~$200 savings.
On a side note, all of this tire bullshit is Ford's fault. When they scapegoated Firestone for their POS, rollover prone SUVs Firestone had to scale back their line considerably, and a casualty was much of their Firehawk line. Those were awesome tires at an awesome price and they haven't been available since. Repeatedly letting lots of people burn alive rather than fixing their cars is one thing, but ruining my tire selection really pisses me off.
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Actually, it's funny that you mention Ford not fixing the cars. Recently, my rear window defrost stopped working on my F150, and I started googling if anyone else had that problem. Turns out, it's the contact for the defrost not working and there have been some stories of people having the contact start a small fire and blow out the back window. Instead of issuing a recall and fixing the problem, Ford has said it's not their problem and will replace them only if the car is under warranty. So, I guess I won't be using the defrost in the back, which is okay because I don't ever really need to use it...I don't think I've ever had the rear window frost up.
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On a different note, I had a 2009 VW Beetle, 2.5 L PZEV, 5 speed. Black and in great cosmetic shape for being nine years old (aside from some ripping on the seats). Had a new stereo system and speakers put in (sounded amazing) last summer, etc. I never drove it (only 64k miles, with maybe 500 accumulated over the last year or so), so it ended up sitting in the garage, and we decided to sell it.
KBB priced it out as like $2,300. Dumbfounded. Took it to Carmax - just $3,000. I couldn't believe how far the value dropped on the car in just the last two years. I could have went through the process of selling it privately, but to be honest, most kids (16-24) wouldn't want it, as it was a stick, and would probably take me a long time to sell, and get the 4k I was eyeing for it. So we bit the bullet and just sold it to Carmax.
Had to vent. I was really annoyed. I mean, depreciation and all of that -- I get it. But holy crap. Just a year ago I could have gotten like $5000. I mean, the car would have needed some front end maintenance pretty soon (tie rods and struts had some play), but it was immaculate and ran great. As much as I love the little thing, it was time to let it go. I probably would have only gotten 1500 for it if I waited another year.
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Actually, it's funny that you mention Ford not fixing the cars. Recently, my rear window defrost stopped working on my F150, and I started googling if anyone else had that problem. Turns out, it's the contact for the defrost not working and there have been some stories of people having the contact start a small fire and blow out the back window. Instead of issuing a recall and fixing the problem, Ford has said it's not their problem and will replace them only if the car is under warranty. So, I guess I won't be using the defrost in the back, which is okay because I don't ever really need to use it...I don't think I've ever had the rear window frost up.
Nothing is ever Ford's problems, and lawsuits are cheaper than recalls.
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Samsara, the car market is all kinds of f'ed up lately around here (Northeast). I used to buy/sell cars often enough to have an idea of what they're worth and even after I stopped moving them you still have an idea. I've helped my son now on three sales and three buy/sells of my own, and I don't think I've been in shouting distance of but one of them. Some cars are inexplicably getting crazy money (Saabs) and some are being firesaled (VW GTI, my Tacoma).
I blame social media. :)
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Samsara, the car market is all kinds of f'ed up lately around here (Northeast). I used to buy/sell cars often enough to have an idea of what they're worth and even after I stopped moving them you still have an idea. I've helped my son now on three sales and three buy/sells of my own, and I don't think I've been in shouting distance of but one of them. Some cars are inexplicably getting crazy money (Saabs) and some are being firesaled (VW GTI, my Tacoma).
I blame social media. :)
Glad (but not glad) its not just me. I was really shocked how far it dropped in value. Not surprised about Saabs. They have a cult following. I forget when they stopped making them, but when I was in law school in the very early 2000s, I had a guy whose family were die hard Saab owners/fans.
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Sooooo
Yesterday going to lunch, no issues with the car. Played around in the parking lot shifting between gears 1,2,3 (that's all I can play with on my automatic civic) and I didn't see any issues. I go home last night from work and am happy because in the cold and without warming up I was able to do everything I did during lunch in the parking lot again. I hit the road, no issues. It's driving the best it has been, until... lots and lots of traffic. Sitting in stop and go for 30 minutes and finally when the traffic is about to break and im just going 7 mph, I hit the gas and nothing. Revs go shooting up, MPH doesn't move an inch. I change gears, nothing. Luckily I am just slowly moving at 7mph still that I was able to move the car to the side (with lots of angry people at me now, and understandable). I put the car in park, put it back in drive. No issues. I drive home cautiously but experience no further issues. I take the car around my neighborhood doing more tests with changing gears manually and staying in them. I see no issues. I don't sleep at all because I'm worried if the car is dead. I need a car for this weekend and I'm freaking out if this is going to be safe to drive 500 miles round trip to PA. I take it to work and not a single issue, before leaving I did more tests and messing around in my neighborhood. I saw some slipping, but nothing bad, nothing like it had been the last two weeks and nothing like where it completely stopped working last night. To be safe in the massive amounts of traffic this morning, I kept it in gear 3 until the traffic would move above 30 mph and then put it in drive. Really seemed to work fine. I'm not sure what to do but I started car searching this morning anyway because maybe I will just do what I've been wanting to do for the last 2 years and upgrade to a new civic. I found this used one that is exactly like the one I wanted two years ago. I may have to go take a look today
https://www.openroadhonda.com/used-Edison-2016-Honda-Civic+Sedan-Touring-2HGFC1F9XGH659112 (https://www.openroadhonda.com/used-Edison-2016-Honda-Civic+Sedan-Touring-2HGFC1F9XGH659112)
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Anything flashing on your dash? Check Engine Light? What about the 'D' Symbol? Transmission Light?
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Anything flashing on your dash? Check Engine Light? What about the 'D' Symbol? Transmission Light?
Nothing.
Went to the dealer and bought the civic I linked earlier. They gave my current car a test drive and said they were scared to drive it :lol they think my second gear is just destroyed and wondered why I didn't stall out more like I did last night (not like an engine stall, not sure how else to explain it). They definitely said it was the 2nd gear for sure too. Needless to say, they didn't really want the car and just offered their minimum (I also have the front bumper hanging on by zip ties, and other minor cosmetic issues). I feel like this is an upgrade over every aspect of my old car that I would be thrilled to get the life out of similar to my old car. Also, finally, a sun roof! :hat
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Well it's a bummer your old car is having issues but a new car would be nice too.
I think my bmw has finally died. I went to go pick up my brother from the airport two nights ago when I got the battery light and power steering loss. I've been down this road before, my serpentine belt broke which is strange since I just replaced it a couple months ago. Leave the car at the airport get a lyft home. Come back to the airport with a new belt, my old belt was fine my belt tension broke and took a piece of the oil filter housing with it. Now I'm going to get the car towed home. So basically I can fix it, again but I just have no desire to. I know I said I enjoyed working on it a few posts ago but I enjoyed doing things to better improve the car. This is the third time it's shit the bed with a similar issue.
My big dilemma is I need a car, my mustang hasn't started to be built and if it was summer I'd commute on my bike. Do I buy a cheap car and sell it when my mustang shows up? Do I fix my M3 and then light it on fire when my new car shows up? I'd share my gf's car but she is now working weekends so she needs the car during the week and I hate relying on her.
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Im not sure what makes financial sense, but if you knew how to fix and what to do to fix your car, I'd probably think that's cheaper than buying a temp car, but maybe not since I have no idea of the cost of parts and time itll take you. Sounds annoying though to deal with that timing since you are waiting for a new car.
Absolutely loving my new civic. I can feel it's got a little extra umph with its turbo compared to my old civic which is great for highway passing (not like this car hits off quick from stop, but feels great and reactive once at speed). Having all the extras is really where it's making a difference for me though, the heated leather seats, the 450 watt sound system, android for the car, sunroof, remote start.... these things are what I am really loving the most right now since otherwise it's mostly the same but newer car.
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Well it's a bummer your old car is having issues but a new car would be nice too.
I think my bmw has finally died. I went to go pick up my brother from the airport two nights ago when I got the battery light and power steering loss. I've been down this road before, my serpentine belt broke which is strange since I just replaced it a couple months ago. Leave the car at the airport get a lyft home. Come back to the airport with a new belt, my old belt was fine my belt tension broke and took a piece of the oil filter housing with it. Now I'm going to get the car towed home. So basically I can fix it, again but I just have no desire to. I know I said I enjoyed working on it a few posts ago but I enjoyed doing things to better improve the car. This is the third time it's shit the bed with a similar issue.
My big dilemma is I need a car, my mustang hasn't started to be built and if it was summer I'd commute on my bike. Do I buy a cheap car and sell it when my mustang shows up? Do I fix my M3 and then light it on fire when my new car shows up? I'd share my gf's car but she is now working weekends so she needs the car during the week and I hate relying on her.
The problem is a cheap temp-car can have the same sorts of problems. It's also a hassle to buy another car and then have two to sell, as well as insure.
If you're planning to sell the M3 (and of course you are) it'll be better sold repaired. If you're planning on trading it in for the Mustang then it dosen't matter. You could charge it up and drive it onto the lot with no power steering and then it's their problem.
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Alright so update:
M3 needs a new oil filter housing unit. That will fix the issue I had with it. I plan on doing this because I also bought a new car (well almost new). I picked up a 2017 Lexus RC350 AWD this week. My plan was not to buy the car, I was shopping for a cheap car I could get rid of when my mustang came. My brother (who is a big Lexus fan) told me stop by the dealership to take a look. I did and I drove the RC. It's an awesome car, it's not the fastest (it's heavy as shit), but it really surprised me and how nice of a package it was. I talked to the soon-to-be misses and I decided I'm going to get the car. My options are now keep the lexus and cancel my order (eat the deposit), sell the car when my mustang gets here, or most likely the misses will take the car when her lease expires early next year. I got a phenomenal deal on the car and it's looks brand new, not single scratch or nic on it. The M3 stays for now because I'm a glutton for punishment and I drive my german shepherd around a lot, I don't really want him in the new car right now.
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Maybe I'm just a fanboy, but this thing in white is freaking sexy.
(https://static.az-cdn.ch/__ip/qn39HSBiNRTjbWF5LpK_kb1a4As/2c942a639dc2f3e79a56434059395b8c9de4dc96/remote.adjust.rotate=0&remote.size.w=3200&remote.size.h=2134&local.crop.h=1800&local.crop.w=3200&local.crop.x=0&local.crop.y=208&r=1,n-large-16x9)
Quite a step up from the first generation
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71bnzQNnC4L._UY560_.jpg)
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First gen was pretty much just a Lotus Elise with an electric drivetrain. ;D
That new looks awesome though! Hopefully it is really as fast as Elon Claims..
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I saw a segment from Jay Leno's show where they gave him a ride in this. He just started yelling when the guy driving stomped on the gas and as it was still accelerating yelled "I'll buy it!". There's no doubt in my mind they'll get it close to that 250mph+ mark. I'm looking forward to seeing if they can actually get the acceleration figures they're talking about. Getting that kind of power down could be a real challenge. I can't imagine what kind of tires you need to get a street car up to 60mph in under 2 seconds.
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Anyone watch Regular car reviews?
They did one on the BMW 850i and through in a mention of Dream Theater at the end of the review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_SknARfADQ
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Anyone watch Regular car reviews?
They did one on the BMW 850i and through in a mention of Dream Theater at the end of the review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_SknARfADQ
I actually really enjoyed that review.
I started watching, paused it for a few hours, then came back to it forgetting that I found it here and there was supposed to be a mention of DT. Made me :lol
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Elon Musk mentioned the new Roadster having jets on it to counter roll and whatnot when cornering, or to add additional down force at low speeds for traction.
I guess he wasn't kidding.
(https://preview.redd.it/6vtiufqohi921.jpg?width=354&auto=webp&s=91091669e668c26dc32b6e2a03c85bdbd50d46e7)
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I have some deferred maintenance on my Volvo coming up once the weather warms up:
Coolant flush
Bleed brakes
Transmission fluid flush/drain
AC & alternator belts and tensioners
Timing belt
None of these items are actually in my maintenance manual (besides timing belt), but it seems pretty clear that these should be done at least once in 118,000 miles. Regarding the coolant flush, I saw a video of a guy running his engine (with cabin heat running) with the coolant draining and simultaneously keeping it topped off with distilled water. This seems like a good idea to make sure all the old coolant is gone, but also seemed a bit nerve wracking to me.
Draining all the trans fluid doesn't seem very easy, and some recommendations suggest just draining whatever comes out of the plug and replacing that with new fluid. Repeating a few times still leaves some old fluid in, but is that really a big deal?
Brakes are a bit more straightforward, but I've still never done it myself.
I've probably talked about my timing belt a million times, and mentioned it here once or twice. I know the whole process and exactly what I have to do, but I don't trust myself not to screw something up. I will likely just have that done at a shop. Until i started writing this post, i thought Volvo dealers had lifetime warranty on their service, but as I re-read it, timing belts aren't included :mehlin
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I've done a few transmission fluid changes in my day and they are indeed a huge pain in the ass that's what I'd probably thing I'd take my car to the dealer.
I think I finally have an answer as to what I'm going to do with my BMW. I think I might just track it locally, I have all the bits to get it sorted but I'm just waiting for better weather.
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I have some deferred maintenance on my Volvo coming up once the weather warms up:
Coolant flush
Bleed brakes
Transmission fluid flush/drain
AC & alternator belts and tensioners
Timing belt
None of these items are actually in my maintenance manual (besides timing belt), but it seems pretty clear that these should be done at least once in 118,000 miles. Regarding the coolant flush, I saw a video of a guy running his engine (with cabin heat running) with the coolant draining and simultaneously keeping it topped off with distilled water. This seems like a good idea to make sure all the old coolant is gone, but also seemed a bit nerve wracking to me.
Draining all the trans fluid doesn't seem very easy, and some recommendations suggest just draining whatever comes out of the plug and replacing that with new fluid. Repeating a few times still leaves some old fluid in, but is that really a big deal?
Brakes are a bit more straightforward, but I've still never done it myself.
I've probably talked about my timing belt a million times, and mentioned it here once or twice. I know the whole process and exactly what I have to do, but I don't trust myself not to screw something up. I will likely just have that done at a shop. Until i started writing this post, i thought Volvo dealers had lifetime warranty on their service, but as I re-read it, timing belts aren't included :mehlin
One of my BMWs had a blown head gasket, but it only leaked externally. Managed to keep it on the road for 3 years without much hassle. In six months to a year oxidation would turn the coolant pretty nasty so it would need to be flushed. They'd stick a water hose in there and let it run for 5 or 10 minutes while somebody kept it gently revved and monitored the temp. Impurities won't matter for the scant time they're in there before being replaced with something that will actively neutralize the remnants.
Also watched my mechanic change the tranny fluid (and filter, don't forget that). It was messy but not awful. However, mine was an easily serviceable transmission. Nowadays they're sealed and, as I understand it, you have to siphon the old fluid out and pump the good stuff back in. Not sure how you'd even deal with the filter. I know modern (in my case 05) BMWs have completely non-serviceable trannys.
Watch a YT video on how to make a 1 man bleeder apparatus. My guess would be a 16oz coke bottle with holes drilled in the cap. And a 118k if you're going to do it you should probably replace the fluid altogether. That stuff does get old with age. When that happens the boiling point of the fluid drops dramatically. Volvo recommends changing it at 24k, though that's super-duper conservative.
I don't know that the deal with your timing belt is (that's the job I always let the tech do because failure is catastrophic). I do know that the car I had with a belt, rather than a chain, involved getting all the way down to the water pump. It was therefore the case that you never replaced one without the other. No idea if that holds true with yours, but you should look into it, particularly since you'll be draining all the coolant anyway.
edit: just noticed belts and tensioners are your list. Do the water pump either way. You'll have everything off of the front of the motor and it'll be drained.
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Water pump will definitely be done with timing belt, and of course it would make sense to do the coolant flush right afterwards.
(https://images.matthewsvolvosite.com/timing-belt-diagram.gif)
(https://www.dreamtheaterforums.org/boards/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fatthetipwebs.com%2Ftechnologyinstructions%2Fvolvo%2F960%2FPICT1090.JPG&hash=4069f2d115d4ab36cffa3d5464058915bff63fa7)
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T-Minus 15 hours till my Model 3 test drive. :D
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Which model are you taking for a spin?
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Not sure, to be honest, but I doubt they have any of the base models available at showrooms right now anyway, I really just want to get a general feel for the car and especially see if the drive in general is really as great as advertised. Been spending a day or two kinda getting a feel for certain things I want to check out.
The main batch revolves around autopilot and safety features. A HUGE strike against the Model 3 is the lack of a traditional blind spot monitoring system. And given that my current car has both lane keep assist and adaptive cruise control, will the new base autopilot (which is basically just those two features) be a significant upgrade over my car, which is already great, especially in the cruise control department. It's something that Tesla really toots its own horn about so I better feel like it's pretty fucking magical and well refined.
On a similar front the Model 3, as priced, is missing a couple of glaringly obvious items. One is a heated steering wheel. While not used regularly as I either have scheduled leave times for work or start my car ahead of time, I don't always remember or leave at those times and LOVE my heated steering wheel when I get into a cold car. I also believe that the car only has heated seats, and not cooled/ventilated. Finally the lack of support for USB audio or Android Auto is wholly disappointing. Not even from a technological sense but just from the seeming desire to force you into Tesla's ecosystem, a very bad and very Apple like trait I find horrid. What this would essentially mean for me is despite a giant 15" screen I would STILL need to mount my phone somewhere for Waze navigation.
So why even consider a car that is more expensive than my current vehicle and has several glaring downgrades? Well, it'll come down to the ride. The Model is is even more efficient than my already super efficient car, is wholly electric which I want, and has those two Tesla qualities that give it an edge up on everyone else: A vast supercharger network and a sportiness no one else in the segment is even beginning to touch. While I will choose fuel efficiency and practicality any day of the week over horsepower or fun, Tesla is that rare breed that does allow you to have both. If I fall in love with that aspect of things it can overcome the shortcomings.
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(https://www.wpapu.com/images/M301.jpg)
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Noice!
The Model Y gets unveiled today! :corn :corn
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Pretty vanilla as expected given how much the vehicle is based on the Model 3. MUCH more interested in following the progress of the semi at this point.
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Pretty vanilla as expected given how much the vehicle is based on the Model 3. MUCH more interested in following the progress of the semi at this point.
I'm anxious to see what they enter the pickup truck realm with.
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Nick,
Love your choice. I am not in the market for a new vehicle yet. It'll be a few years. However, I think we're going to take the Tesla plunge ourselves. It depends on the market. We're absolutely going electric, but we'll see what options are out there in 2022. Right now we have a plug-in hybrid and a standard hybrid. The plug-in is PERFECT for my wife. With her commute, charging at work, and charging at night at home, she needs gas 4x per year. So basically, a max of $200 in gas each year. I think we want to keep the plug-in hybrid though, just to have a gas tank in case we want to take a longer trip. But the next vehicle will be full-on electric. We considered the Tesla Model S when we bought the plug-in hybrid (Sonata). But for the money, and the security of having a gas tank, it made more sense. But electric is absolutely the way to go.
Beautiful choice on the 3. I priced one out -- the upgraded wheels are bad ass, but man does that make the price pop up. I salute you for holding firm on the standard wheels. No sense wasting money.
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Nick,
Love your choice. I am not in the market for a new vehicle yet. It'll be a few years. However, I think we're going to take the Tesla plunge ourselves. It depends on the market. We're absolutely going electric, but we'll see what options are out there in 2022. Right now we have a plug-in hybrid and a standard hybrid. The plug-in is PERFECT for my wife. With her commute, charging at work, and charging at night at home, she needs gas 4x per year. So basically, a max of $200 in gas each year. I think we want to keep the plug-in hybrid though, just to have a gas tank in case we want to take a longer trip. But the next vehicle will be full-on electric. We considered the Tesla Model S when we bought the plug-in hybrid (Sonata). But for the money, and the security of having a gas tank, it made more sense. But electric is absolutely the way to go.
Beautiful choice on the 3. I priced one out -- the upgraded wheels are bad ass, but man does that make the price pop up. I salute you for holding firm on the standard wheels. No sense wasting money.
You're going to be in for a tough choice in 2022. I think the Tesla Model 3 will still be the best choice, but with the Kona, Niro, and potentially Leaf+ still getting 7500 federal back while Tesla gets nothing, plus any new entries, it'll be a lot tougher choice.
For the wheels, a very important note if you dig just a little deeper on the Model 3, you can remove the aero covers and buy a kit for $50 that makes the rims underneath look stellar. Definitely the way to go as opposed to a $1,500 upgrade.
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So I was supposed to take delivery of my Model 3 this past Saturday and got there as a carrier was unloading a group in cars. Checked in and the manager approached me shortly thereafter. My car had just come off the truck and during either loading or unloading had gotten some minor damage to the passenger front fender. I asked to see it and indeed did want them to take care of the issue before I took the car. I was obviously upset and sad about being denied the car at the last possible moment, but they went above and beyond in making it right.
I'm now in no hurry to get my car as I'm currently rolling around in a Model S P85D, which optioned as it is probably cost around 100k new and does 0-60 in 3.2 seconds. And yes, I've tested that out a few times.
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:metal
I had a little fender issue in my used car I bought last fall, I took it off the lot with the promise of "we'll fix it" I really needed the car at that time, and I had serious doubts as to whether they would actually fix it, but none the less they did a few weeks later and touched up on some paint I noticed. It was nice for once to have some sales people hold onto their end of the deal even if the coordination was kind of annoying.
Sounds like you'll be all set soon and well, who cares if you have to wait longer at this point, you get to have fun with a super nice rental.
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@Nick
Your car was ready for delivery just 2 weeks after placing your order?
That's nuts. I thought the wait was much longer than that. I thought it was months. My Mini Cooper took 13 weeks.
Also, someone on Reddit posted this Model 3. This color is awesome.
(https://preview.redd.it/c3m7kl3ztoo21.jpg?width=1024&auto=webp&s=7b13c9f4a627e7bb3bed47fcca7ee36aab8db219)
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Your car was ready for delivery just 2 weeks after placing your order?
That's nuts. I thought the wait was much longer than that. I thought it was months. My Mini Cooper took 13 weeks.
Well, let me give a better run through of my Tesla timing and story.
March 10: Ordered my Standard Range Plug Model 3. At this time this and the base Model 3 had been out 1-2 weeks and the deliver timeframe for the base had been moved to 4-6 weeks and the SR+ I was getting was 2-4 weeks.
March 11: Modified my order to a Mid Range Model 3. Delivery estimate for that car, as well as all other models was then and is now 2 weeks.
March 12: Received and email and call from my delivery rep trying to lock down a March 19th delivery. By March 16 I had my ducks in a row and confirmed that date.
March 18: 24 hours before delivery I got a call that the car was still nowhere near PA and we would have to push back delivery to March 23. Was told car would be arriving at the service center late March 22 and they would be detailing it that next day for a late in the day delivery.
March 23: Come to service center and get the news that the car just came off the truck with some damage. Get the car that makes me not care when it's done, but am told first week of April.
Now, as it happens now here is where Tesla stands.
Mid range (my car) is no longer an option, and as I have a 2019 VIN mine is truly one of the last produced.
All higher variants are still two weeks.
Standard Range Plus began getting delivered about a week ago to the first people who ordered, new orders are now at 2-4 weeks.
Standard, this is the depressing one, even those who first ordered are now being told the cars won't be delivered until June. New orders likely July.
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Had the oddest thing happen to me last Sunday night.
Went to go grab something out of my truck (2014 F-150 XLT, 66,000 miles on it) and the keypad wouldn't light up to get in. Went to grab the key fob, tried to unlock it, nothing. Manually unlocked it, no electrical at all, key in ignition and turned, the car is completely dead. Wait until morning to call the insurance company to get it jumped. Jumped, starts up, go straight to my mechanic. It has a new battery and is still new enough that the alternator is still healthy.
Get a call a few hours later. Everything checks out. Battery is testing as new, alternator is charging the battery and in good condition, fuses all intact, solenoids, ignition switch, all good. Ran it through the computer, no problems or errors detected. Cables in good shape, tight, nothing to be found and starts up like a dream.
They had five people look at it and no one can find an issue. I've read a few other posts from people that say it's happened to them and just magically works, some say they just have to hit the unlock button inside and it works again. It's just so weird and it was kinda nerve wracking all week starting it up. It was also weird that my remote start was always sending me back a signal that the car started, even though it was dead and didn't start.
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Sounds like there may be some loose wiring somwhere. I had something similar happen to my Golf years ago and it turned out to be a bad ground cable.
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Anybody drive a BMW 328 circa 2015-2016? I've been looking at a couple but my concern is the maintenance. Is the maintenance expensive for this model? I currently drive a 2014 VW Jetta so that would be my reference.
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Maintenance can be expensive if you’re against doing it yourself. Reliability is good, the most important thing about bmws is that if you start having problem then you need to address it and don’t half ass a repairs. Do some searching on the forums for common issues to look out for.
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Maintenance can be expensive if you’re against doing it yourself. Reliability is good, the most important thing about bmws is that if you start having problem then you need to address it and don’t half ass a repairs. Do some searching on the forums for common issues to look out for.
This, although I'd put it a little differently. Common issues you will have to look out for. All BMWs seem to have the same problems. Every e46 owner here has had crickets chirping in their blower motor or had to repair their rear-pax taillight. What you're looking at is the F30 platform, so search some forums for that to get finer results.
The two things I'd suggest if you're looking to get one are, don't get a low end model. That market is mostly lease cars now, and I just wouldn't trust them as much. And the other thing is that if you can swing it you should look at the 335 or 340 version. I'm sure BMW makes a fine 4-banger, but they perfected the inline-6 decades ago and continue to refine it. At least make a point to drive one. Those are motors that will still be relative youngsters while the rest of the car is dying of old age at 250-300k. Done that twice already and I'm working on the third.
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Sounds like there may be some loose wiring somwhere. I had something similar happen to my Golf years ago and it turned out to be a bad ground cable.
They checked the ground cable and any cable related to the battery and couldn't find anything. I just find it weird that the battery needed to be jumped and everything was fine afterwards. It happened to one of the delivery drivers to our store and his F-150. He said something shorted out on the battery, jumped it, and nothing ever happened again. It's weird....
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Maintenance can be expensive if you’re against doing it yourself. Reliability is good, the most important thing about bmws is that if you start having problem then you need to address it and don’t half ass a repairs. Do some searching on the forums for common issues to look out for.
This, although I'd put it a little differently. Common issues you will have to look out for. All BMWs seem to have the same problems. Every e46 owner here has had crickets chirping in their blower motor or had to repair their rear-pax taillight. What you're looking at is the F30 platform, so search some forums for that to get finer results.
The two things I'd suggest if you're looking to get one are, don't get a low end model. That market is mostly lease cars now, and I just wouldn't trust them as much. And the other thing is that if you can swing it you should look at the 335 or 340 version. I'm sure BMW makes a fine 4-banger, but they perfected the inline-6 decades ago and continue to refine it. At least make a point to drive one. Those are motors that will still be relative youngsters while the rest of the car is dying of old age at 250-300k. Done that twice already and I'm working on the third.
In my experience, this is absolutely, 100% spot on. Between my step son and I, we've had eight BMWs, six of which were three series (and one based on the three series platform). For reference, I've replaced four blower motors myself. :) Look, they're not perfect, and you get lemons like with any car. But well-maintained, well-cared for cars will last you as long as you are still interested in driving them. My son's current car is an M3 with 175k on it, and while cosmetically it could do with some attention, it drives smooth as silk. Like any car, your best bet is finding a mechanic you can trust - either in-dealer (the current dealers around me are useless, but I've had dealers in the past that were fair and knowledgeable) or independent - and having him/her do your service.
Work on these is not impossible, and the forums are incredibly helpful. I do my own oil changes/brakes on my X3, and did oil on my step daughter's '08 328. My advice is your research time is well spent; case in point, I needed coolant in my car. Through the dealer it's EXPENSIVE. You also can't - shouldn't, you can do anything you want - just pour your standard Prestone bought from Walmart in there (colors matter when it comes to coolant; BMWs are usually blue, not flourescent green), but a little quick scoping finds that you CAN buy the right coolant fairly cheaply and do it yourself. Bam. Saved some $$$, but also saved having your cooling system corroding to the point where it requires flushing or worse.
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Maintenance can be expensive if you’re against doing it yourself. Reliability is good, the most important thing about bmws is that if you start having problem then you need to address it and don’t half ass a repairs. Do some searching on the forums for common issues to look out for.
This, although I'd put it a little differently. Common issues you will have to look out for. All BMWs seem to have the same problems. Every e46 owner here has had crickets chirping in their blower motor or had to repair their rear-pax taillight. What you're looking at is the F30 platform, so search some forums for that to get finer results.
The two things I'd suggest if you're looking to get one are, don't get a low end model. That market is mostly lease cars now, and I just wouldn't trust them as much. And the other thing is that if you can swing it you should look at the 335 or 340 version. I'm sure BMW makes a fine 4-banger, but they perfected the inline-6 decades ago and continue to refine it. At least make a point to drive one. Those are motors that will still be relative youngsters while the rest of the car is dying of old age at 250-300k. Done that twice already and I'm working on the third.
In my experience, this is absolutely, 100% spot on. Between my step son and I, we've had eight BMWs, six of which were three series (and one based on the three series platform). For reference, I've replaced four blower motors myself. :) Look, they're not perfect, and you get lemons like with any car. But well-maintained, well-cared for cars will last you as long as you are still interested in driving them. My son's current car is an M3 with 175k on it, and while cosmetically it could do with some attention, it drives smooth as silk. Like any car, your best bet is finding a mechanic you can trust - either in-dealer (the current dealers around me are useless, but I've had dealers in the past that were fair and knowledgeable) or independent - and having him/her do your service.
As a former Mini Cooper owner, I cannot accept this statement as truth :lol
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Maintenance can be expensive if you’re against doing it yourself. Reliability is good, the most important thing about bmws is that if you start having problem then you need to address it and don’t half ass a repairs. Do some searching on the forums for common issues to look out for.
This, although I'd put it a little differently. Common issues you will have to look out for. All BMWs seem to have the same problems. Every e46 owner here has had crickets chirping in their blower motor or had to repair their rear-pax taillight. What you're looking at is the F30 platform, so search some forums for that to get finer results.
The two things I'd suggest if you're looking to get one are, don't get a low end model. That market is mostly lease cars now, and I just wouldn't trust them as much. And the other thing is that if you can swing it you should look at the 335 or 340 version. I'm sure BMW makes a fine 4-banger, but they perfected the inline-6 decades ago and continue to refine it. At least make a point to drive one. Those are motors that will still be relative youngsters while the rest of the car is dying of old age at 250-300k. Done that twice already and I'm working on the third.
In my experience, this is absolutely, 100% spot on. Between my step son and I, we've had eight BMWs, six of which were three series (and one based on the three series platform). For reference, I've replaced four blower motors myself. :) Look, they're not perfect, and you get lemons like with any car. But well-maintained, well-cared for cars will last you as long as you are still interested in driving them. My son's current car is an M3 with 175k on it, and while cosmetically it could do with some attention, it drives smooth as silk. Like any car, your best bet is finding a mechanic you can trust - either in-dealer (the current dealers around me are useless, but I've had dealers in the past that were fair and knowledgeable) or independent - and having him/her do your service.
As a former Mini Cooper owner, I cannot accept this statement as truth :lol
HAHA, and being familiar with your story, I can understand that. Full disclosure for me: I've never gotten one that was less than four years old, so that makes a difference.
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Well, Tesla full on impressed today. They had an autonomy event to talk about their new full self driving computer and the software they are working on to utilize it. It all sounded good, and my personal experience shows they are on the right track for sure. But then this video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlThdr3O5Qo&feature=youtu.be
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(https://i.imgur.com/6oufjzM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/smjy8At.jpg)
Changing my oil did not go as planned
5.5 quarts=a lot of weight=a lot of pressure
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(https://i.imgur.com/6oufjzM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/smjy8At.jpg)
Changing my oil did not go as planned
5.5 quarts=a lot of weight=a lot of pressure
I hope I don't run into the same issues changing the oil on my Model 3. :biggrin:
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Well, Tesla full on impressed today. They had an autonomy event to talk about their new full self driving computer and the software they are working on to utilize it. It all sounded good, and my personal experience shows they are on the right track for sure. But then this video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlThdr3O5Qo&feature=youtu.be
Fully autonomous trips are much closer than a lot of people realize.
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Well, Tesla full on impressed today. They had an autonomy event to talk about their new full self driving computer and the software they are working on to utilize it. It all sounded good, and my personal experience shows they are on the right track for sure. But then this video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlThdr3O5Qo&feature=youtu.be
Fully autonomous trips are much closer than a lot of people realize.
Hasn't this been a thing for a while now?
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Well, Tesla full on impressed today. They had an autonomy event to talk about their new full self driving computer and the software they are working on to utilize it. It all sounded good, and my personal experience shows they are on the right track for sure. But then this video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlThdr3O5Qo&feature=youtu.be
Fully autonomous trips are much closer than a lot of people realize.
Hasn't this been a thing for a while now?
Not to this extent, at least not that I've seen. And you still have to get in and engage with the vehicle/be in the front seat. When I say "fully autonomous", I mean that you'll be able to summon a car from your phone like an Uber, and just hop in the back seat worry free.
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That video was really cool, I liked how it changed lanes and adjusted speed well. Was passing so many people on the right ont he highway too :lol I like it.
Life will certainly be different the day most or all cars aren't driven by people anymore.
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Well, Tesla full on impressed today. They had an autonomy event to talk about their new full self driving computer and the software they are working on to utilize it. It all sounded good, and my personal experience shows they are on the right track for sure. But then this video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlThdr3O5Qo&feature=youtu.be
Fully autonomous trips are much closer than a lot of people realize.
Hasn't this been a thing for a while now?
Not to this extent, at least not that I've seen. And you still have to get in and engage with the vehicle/be in the front seat. When I say "fully autonomous", I mean that you'll be able to summon a car from your phone like an Uber, and just hop in the back seat worry free.
The thing that I found to be so amazing about this video is we're not talking about some car strapped with tens of thousands of extra equipment around it.
We're talking about the exact car I have, and now many others do too, with an upgraded computer (that myself and others who purchased full self driving will get for free), with an advanced version of the software running. This is literally a car people have no just waiting to catch up to this and to solidify what's shown here.
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Well, Tesla full on impressed today. They had an autonomy event to talk about their new full self driving computer and the software they are working on to utilize it. It all sounded good, and my personal experience shows they are on the right track for sure. But then this video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlThdr3O5Qo&feature=youtu.be
Fully autonomous trips are much closer than a lot of people realize.
Hasn't this been a thing for a while now?
Not to this extent, at least not that I've seen. And you still have to get in and engage with the vehicle/be in the front seat. When I say "fully autonomous", I mean that you'll be able to summon a car from your phone like an Uber, and just hop in the back seat worry free.
The thing that I found to be so amazing about this video is we're not talking about some car strapped with tens of thousands of extra equipment around it.
They sure have come a long way since the early days of the annual DARPA competitions.
(https://www.dreamtheaterforums.org/boards/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.extremetech.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2011%2F11%2FEv_DARPA_NQE_05_0017.jpg&hash=71c411579104636570a5ace590a68b2379185da1)
(https://images.hgmsites.net/med/gm-and-carnegie-mellon-win-darpa-driverless-challenge_100217674_m.jpg)
(https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/1200/1*4LRbMi29di0ahN-HMgIfMQ.jpeg)
(https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Emilio_Frazzoli/publication/228794498/figure/fig1/AS:300693329072128@1448702284145/Talos-Team-MITs-race-vehicle-at-the-DARPA-Urban-Challenge.png)
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(https://electrek.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2018/08/SX3Semi-Family-e1534526883239.jpg?quality=82&strip=all&w=1600)
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I don't know about anyone else, but I've noticed a significant more amount of Teslas I see on the road every day now out here in NJ. I swear there were 5 alone on one drive in last week. I don't know if it's an effect where its on my mind so I notice it more or if Musk's really got Tesla in a position to be more accepted and available.
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I don't know about anyone else, but I've noticed a significant more amount of Teslas I see on the road every day now out here in NJ. I swear there were 5 alone on one drive in last week. I don't know if it's an effect where its on my mind so I notice it more or if Musk's really got Tesla in a position to be more accepted and available.
The Model 3 is leading EV sales in just about every country by a huge margin. I am seeing a ton of them in CT lately, especially around Hartford. We have a super charging station a few blocks over (5 or 6 spaces) and it's regularly filled.
Out west, Tesla is starting to deliver the 3s using their own trucks. It's pretty cool.
(https://i0.wp.com/electrek.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2019/03/Tesla-Semi-electric-vehicles.jpg?resize=1500%2C0&quality=82&strip=all&ssl=1)
I wish they'd make a bare-bones Model X. In 4 or 5 years when I'm ready to dump my CX-9, I'd really like to look into an EV. The new Model Y is going to be too small for me. The size of the X is what I'm looking for. I don't needs all the bells and whistles, or the "bio-defense" mode or whatever it's called. If they could make a vehicle of that size in the mid-$40K range, that'd be awesome.
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Well, Tesla full on impressed today. They had an autonomy event to talk about their new full self driving computer and the software they are working on to utilize it. It all sounded good, and my personal experience shows they are on the right track for sure. But then this video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlThdr3O5Qo&feature=youtu.be
Fully autonomous trips are much closer than a lot of people realize.
I mean, as it stands now if I had to do 100 miles on a highway I'd certainly be comfortable with the car handling it. Do I agree with all the cars decisions? No, but I wouldn't feel unsafe. And if I could be distracted by other things (meaning actually having the car in charge), then I wouldn't really care about it's exact driving style.
I don't know about anyone else, but I've noticed a significant more amount of Teslas I see on the road every day now out here in NJ. I swear there were 5 alone on one drive in last week. I don't know if it's an effect where its on my mind so I notice it more or if Musk's really got Tesla in a position to be more accepted and available.
It's happening everywhere. The rate at which Model 3s have hit the road in the last few years is exploding the overall number of Tesla vehicles. Add to that the push going forward to get the Standard Range + sold, which is currently the cheapest official offering, and that trend will only continue as more people are able to afford their vehicle.
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Nick,
As you know, I'm all in on the plug-in hybrids and EVs. But one thing that really pissed me off, but makes sense out here in CA, is legislation for a special tax against EV owners so they contribute to the highways. Since we barely use gas in our plug-in hybrid (our commute makes gas a once every three months thing), we aren't paying into the gas tax that helps fund road repairs here. So we are going to get nailed next tax year from the state. I'm not sure what is on the legislation agenda in other states, but its something to keep in mind for folks buying EVs to avoid buying gas alone -- eventually you're gonna pay one way or another. Sucks, but I get it.
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I mean, as it stands now if I had to do 100 miles on a highway I'd certainly be comfortable with the car handling it. Do I agree with all the cars decisions? No, but I wouldn't feel unsafe. And if I could be distracted by other things (meaning actually having the car in charge), then I wouldn't really care about it's exact driving style.
Wouldn't you be bored doing what the driver in the video did? I think I'd rather drive that 100 miles just to have something to do while I listened to tunes. If I could sit in the passenger seat and play video games or something it'd be alright, but you're still required to be effectively a copilot from what I can tell.
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Nick,
As you know, I'm all in on the plug-in hybrids and EVs. But one thing that really pissed me off, but makes sense out here in CA, is legislation for a special tax against EV owners so they contribute to the highways. Since we barely use gas in our plug-in hybrid (our commute makes gas a once every three months thing), we aren't paying into the gas tax that helps fund road repairs here. So we are going to get nailed next tax year from the state. I'm not sure what is on the legislation agenda in other states, but its something to keep in mind for folks buying EVs to avoid buying gas alone -- eventually you're gonna pay one way or another. Sucks, but I get it.
Certainly not the only state that is doing this or similar measures. I just think it's too early for this sort of thing and that states should short term be increasing the gas tax to make up for lost revenue, thus prompting more people to switch to EVs, thus hastening the changeover to them, and then once closer to parity to gas vehicles find ways to get the revenue from EV drivers. I'm a pretty staunch environmentalist, so punishing EV owners this early in the game is bonkers to me, but eventually once the numbers grow large enough they will have to shoulder a load for road maintenance and such.
I know in certain places in the US gas is moderately high, but on the whole it's laughable the number of Americans who think gas is expensive. Travel around Europe a bit and it's easy to see why the demand for EVs over there is insane. At this point the only thing keeping EVs from Europe is a constraint on battery production. Certain countries will buy out their allotment of new vehicles months or a year+ in advance there.
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Certainly not the only state that is doing this or similar measures. I just think it's too early for this sort of thing and that states should short term be increasing the gas tax to make up for lost revenue, thus prompting more people to switch to EVs, thus hastening the changeover to them, and then once closer to parity to gas vehicles find ways to get the revenue from EV drivers. I'm a pretty staunch environmentalist, so punishing EV owners this early in the game is bonkers to me, but eventually once the numbers grow large enough they will have to shoulder a load for road maintenance and such.
I know in certain places in the US gas is moderately high, but on the whole it's laughable the number of Americans who think gas is expensive. Travel around Europe a bit and it's easy to see why the demand for EVs over there is insane. At this point the only thing keeping EVs from Europe is a constraint on battery production. Certain countries will buy out their allotment of new vehicles months or a year+ in advance there.
Agree with you. But big oil has a lot of money for lobbyists, unfortunately. LOL.
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I mean, as it stands now if I had to do 100 miles on a highway I'd certainly be comfortable with the car handling it. Do I agree with all the cars decisions? No, but I wouldn't feel unsafe. And if I could be distracted by other things (meaning actually having the car in charge), then I wouldn't really care about it's exact driving style.
Wouldn't you be bored doing what the driver in the video did? I think I'd rather drive that 100 miles just to have something to do while I listened to tunes. If I could sit in the passenger seat and play video games or something it'd be alright, but you're still required to be effectively a copilot from what I can tell.
As someone who would rather drive than sit in the passenger seat, I'm with you, but at the same time, I think it's certainly a cool feature, but until you don't need to sit there and pay attention, it means I can't call my car to drive me home from a bar and to me, that's the most useful feature of automated driving.
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I mean, as it stands now if I had to do 100 miles on a highway I'd certainly be comfortable with the car handling it. Do I agree with all the cars decisions? No, but I wouldn't feel unsafe. And if I could be distracted by other things (meaning actually having the car in charge), then I wouldn't really care about it's exact driving style.
Wouldn't you be bored doing what the driver in the video did? I think I'd rather drive that 100 miles just to have something to do while I listened to tunes. If I could sit in the passenger seat and play video games or something it'd be alright, but you're still required to be effectively a copilot from what I can tell.
As someone who would rather drive than sit in the passenger seat, I'm with you, but at the same time, I think it's certainly a cool feature, but until you don't need to sit there and pay attention, it means I can't call my car to drive me home from a bar and to me, that's the most useful feature of automated driving.
Agreed, though it'll be a long time before you're allowed to do that, I think.
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I mean, as it stands now if I had to do 100 miles on a highway I'd certainly be comfortable with the car handling it. Do I agree with all the cars decisions? No, but I wouldn't feel unsafe. And if I could be distracted by other things (meaning actually having the car in charge), then I wouldn't really care about it's exact driving style.
Wouldn't you be bored doing what the driver in the video did? I think I'd rather drive that 100 miles just to have something to do while I listened to tunes. If I could sit in the passenger seat and play video games or something it'd be alright, but you're still required to be effectively a copilot from what I can tell.
As someone who would rather drive than sit in the passenger seat, I'm with you, but at the same time, I think it's certainly a cool feature, but until you don't need to sit there and pay attention, it means I can't call my car to drive me home from a bar and to me, that's the most useful feature of automated driving.
Agreed, though it'll be a long time before you're allowed to do that, I think.
I mean, it'll be situation for sure, but it's about having the choice that'll make it appealing. Nice drive and I want to? Sure. Have work that I want to do on my drive? By all means Tesla, take over. I wouldn't buy a car that didn't allow for driver intervention (Musk says he will be building a version of Model 3 without a steering wheel), but love the idea of handing over the reigns when I want to.
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So a lot of this will be dependent on logistics and future factors, but I think I want my next car to either be an eGolf or a manual Mazda3 Sedan.
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I've owned 4 cars in my life, and my 2004 manual Mazda3 hatchback was easily my favorite. Perfect balance of performance, storage capacity, fuel economy, and comfort. Other than the syncros being garbage, it gave me no issues.
I currently have a 2015 Mazda CX-9 that I also enjoy, but it's not exactly what I'd call "fun". It's surprisingly nimble and quick, and it corners great for a vehicle of that size (AWD), but it's still a pretty big vehicle.
I like Mazdas.
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https://cleantechnica.com/2019/04/25/tesla-model-3-performance-crushes-fossil-bmw-m3-around-race-track/
Pretty good head-to-head write up by Top Gear Magazine on the Model3 vs a BMW M3
Top Gear magazine has track tested the Tesla Model 3 Performance head to head against fossil fans’ favorite sports saloon, the BMW M3. The track times were conducted on the 2 mile Thunderhill Raceway Park West circuit, with the Tesla coming in a significant 2 seconds ahead of the (more expensive) BMW. Fossils must now accept all-round inferiority in the performance realm.
(https://cleantechnica.com/files/2019/04/model-3-track-mode-release-Opt.jpg)
The BMW M3 was born in 1986, and has been continuously developed and improved by BMW’s motor sport division ever since (over 3 decades now). It has long been viewed as offering the pinnacle of mid-sized sports sedan performance.
The Tesla Model 3 is the first full electric mid-sized sedan ever mass produced by any automaker, and the platform was developed for efficiency, zero emissions, autonomy, and technology (amongst other things), not primarily for performance. The very first iteration of an electric mid-sized sedan to have a performance option beating out the longstanding stalwart of fossil fueled sports sedans … does not bode well for the old tech. After all, the fossil technology has already benefited from over a century of refinements and improvements. If we look 5 or 10 years down the road, what refinements and improvements will EV technology gain, to further the performance lead over fossils?
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That's pretty cool. I'm not a huge car guy but my coworker is and talks about M3's a lot. In fact a guy who works for the building here has a "fake" M3 that we always make fun of. I wouldn't be able to know this, but my coworker knows that the mods he put onto his car to make it look like an M3 are just that, mods and not genuine but this guy acts like its all legit and seemingly doesn't know my coworker knows it's fake.
Anyway, I read that the Tesla stock took a hit this week due to lower demand https://www.fool.com/investing/2019/04/25/why-tesla-stock-fell-thursday.aspx (https://www.fool.com/investing/2019/04/25/why-tesla-stock-fell-thursday.aspx) I have no idea how their business model works. My one banker friend thinks Elon is a fraud. My other friend think's he's like our savior. I have no idea what to think, but I do think the tech is really cool especially if it can outperform tradition gas engines.
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I never understood the "Elon is a Fraud" types. First off, what do they mean by "fraud"? Are they implying he's scamming people out of money? How? One I hear thrown around a lot is "he got a $500M loan from the government". Yeah, and? He put in $100M of his own money in on top of that and then paid the loan back 9 years ahead of schedule. Meanwhile, their competitor at the time, Fisker, received a similar $160M loan, missed their first payment, and then collapsed without paying it back.
Like the guy or not, the dude is a genius. He made $165M when he sold Paypal to Ebay. He was one of the creators and owned the largest share of stock (11%). He took that entire sum of money and put 100% of it into founding SpaceX. Literally all of it. He had to borrow money to rent a place to live at that time. If the guy was just trying to get rich, he wouldn't need to "fraud" or scam someone out of money to do it, and starting a rocket company would be one of the most retarded and risky ways to go about it. He'd just start another tech company of some kind.
Tesla is very much like Amazon right now in regards to operation. They "lost" $700M, but it's not like they're just hemorrhaging cash trying to stay afloat. They are constantly building up their infrastructure for the future. They're bringing their gigafactories online (the largest enclosed structures on the planet). They're expanding their super charging networks constantly, with nearly 2000 stations (not individual chargers) currently in operation around the globe. They have a semi-truck that's about to go into mass production, the Model Y going into production the following year, and their pickup truck following that. All of that requires factories, labor, and supply chains. The fact that Tesla has been able to manage and accomplish all of this in under 15 years blows my fucking mind. Seeing them compete and perform better than stuff that took companies with a century's worth of R&D to accomplish is pretty incredible.
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Fossils must now accept all-round inferiority in the performance realm.[/i]
I don't know about that, especially since this is more "honest" (in terms of faithful):
If we look 5 or 10 years down the road, what refinements and improvements will EV technology gain, to further the performance lead over fossils?[/i]
You have ONE car, set against an arbitrary competitor (let's try this against the Hell Cat, or some of the limited run Corvettes...) so let's not get too hyped up over what is essentially the "Squeeze" of performance cars, but that's not to say it's not impressive.
And I certainly do not get the "Elon Is A Fraud" complaints either. This is EXACTLY how it's supposed to be done! THIS is what we need in Pharma, in healthcare, in countless industries where our politicians use corporate failure and hurt people as "chits" to get one over on the "other side".
I don't LOVE Musk, but I have a decent amount of respect for him, foibles and all. I wish we'd tackle more problems like this.
(And for the record - it's been published; I'm sure there's me saying this somewhere buried over at MP.com; if not over at the old Genesis forum: THIS is what is going to get lesser performance, less expensive electric cars to be more prevalent.All those soccer mom's that drive the huge gas-guzzling SUV's around town? Not one of them gives FUCK ONE what powers that car. If electric stations were as prevalent as gas stations, if it got the rug rats to band practice or school or sports as fast and without hassle, they would buy electric just as easily as gas.)
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My banker friend always says something is fishy about his companies money and their stock. I don't know, you'd probably have to discuss with him for more details, but I almost never agree with him on anything but at least value his opinion as he knows business and money more so than I do. I don't know if he is a fraud or not, I think he's a really odd guy though and maybe that leads to him being misunderstood. I watched some of his Joe Rogan interview (where he smoked pot, although I don't know if he even really since it looked like he may never had tried before and probably didnt even inhale) but he came off as a very odd dude to me, but like obviously very smart.
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Fossils must now accept all-round inferiority in the performance realm.[/i]
I don't know about that, especially since this is more "honest" (in terms of faithful):
If we look 5 or 10 years down the road, what refinements and improvements will EV technology gain, to further the performance lead over fossils?[/i]
You have ONE car, set against an arbitrary competitor (let's try this against the Hell Cat, or some of the limited run Corvettes...) so let's not get too hyped up over what is essentially the "Squeeze" of performance cars, but that's not to say it's not impressive.
It's multiple cars at this point though. The Model X and the Model Y would slap an M3 silly around a track. It's the fact that the Model 3 was able to do this that makes it impressive. I wouldn't say it was arbitrary though. Both cars are similar in size and weight. They were within $1000 of each other. Both were the 'performance' version of that iteration. Both were all wheel drive.
Maybe Barto can speak more to this, but to me, the BMW M3 is the baseline for peak 4DR performance. It's a vehicle that can perform amazingly on a track but also get you to and from work in comfort. That's why it was chosen for this test. It's the benchmark that Tesla was aiming for. Audi has been trying to reach that goal forever with the S4 and they always fall up short. Any car company that's trying to build a performance sedan aims to be what the M3 is.
Speaking of Hellcats, here's a video of a Tesla Modeal S P85D drag racing several of them. Keep in mind, this isn't as quick as the P100D, and it still handles itself just fine. Put these two on a track with corners and the Tesla would never lose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNOLsd7jzA
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No, no, I get you, and I'm not looking to belittle the Tesla (I'm as big a fan of the M3 as anyone; I have one sitting in my driveway as we speak, albeit not mine, my stepsons)) but the "fossil fans" thing rubbed me the wrong way. Maybe it's because Tesla is building a legacy as we speak, and BMW has been doing this for at least four decades. Meaning, you're talking about current models; trust me, my step son is not affording a new Tesla OR a new M3 right now, but has access to that car.
I'm really not belittling the Tesla; I think it's an awesome development and will change the auto industry. I've even said, if I win a lottery, I'm going to look hard into the top of the line BMW electric vehicle (I think the badge is i8).
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Fossils must now accept all-round inferiority in the performance realm.[/i]
I don't know about that, especially since this is more "honest" (in terms of faithful):
If we look 5 or 10 years down the road, what refinements and improvements will EV technology gain, to further the performance lead over fossils?[/i]
You have ONE car, set against an arbitrary competitor (let's try this against the Hell Cat, or some of the limited run Corvettes...) so let's not get too hyped up over what is essentially the "Squeeze" of performance cars, but that's not to say it's not impressive.
It's multiple cars at this point though. The Model X and the Model Y would slap an M3 silly around a track. It's the fact that the Model 3 was able to do this that makes it impressive. I wouldn't say it was arbitrary though. Both cars are similar in size and weight. They were within $1000 of each other. Both were the 'performance' version of that iteration. Both were all wheel drive.
Maybe Barto can speak more to this, but to me, the BMW M3 is the baseline for peak 4DR performance. It's a vehicle that can perform amazingly on a track but also get you to and from work in comfort. That's why it was chosen for this test. It's the benchmark that Tesla was aiming for. Audi has been trying to reach that goal forever with the S4 and they always fall up short. Any car company that's trying to build a performance sedan aims to be what the M3 is.
Speaking of Hellcats, here's a video of a Tesla Modeal S P85D drag racing several of them. Keep in mind, this isn't as quick as the P100D, and it still handles itself just fine. Put these two on a track with corners and the Tesla would never lose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNOLsd7jzA
I believe there are two M3 drivers here. I've only owned non-M 3's.
I can say that this doesn't really surprise me. Those batteries can fork over a huge amount of torque instantly. My hunch is that the M3 enters and exits the corners faster, but the Tesla easily makes up for it on the straights. The BMW might fair better in an actual race, driver against driver, but the overall gist of the article is correct. I think it also misses some other points, though. There are plenty of reasons to prefer the fossil over the Tesla. Myself, I wouldn't go near one of them.
I'll also point out what I've been saying for a while. At some point BMW is going to produce a proper electric 3-series, and it'll be stupendous. Instant torque combined with perfect 3 series handling will be the end all.
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Couple of notes here.
First when it comes to Elon fraud/savior: He is neither, but definitely leans towards the latter. He does have his Trump-isms in that he takes liberally to social media and crowds and makes huge claims and statements. The difference is, time after time, even if it's not quite on the timeline proposed, Elon delivers. The Model S wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model X wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model 3 wasn't viable, and it was made. Okay, but no way they can make over 5,000 a week, and it was. Full self driving is a fool's errand, but by most metrics they either lead the way or are among the leaders. All this while solar roofs and powerwalls start to gain traction. He's not always the smoothest speaker, and is certainly not perfect, but he has a ton of results to his name. Tesla's stated goal is to accelerate the transfer to renewable sources and they are hitting that goal head on.
As for the Model 3 v BMW 3 / Electricity v Fossils debate: The mass market has to catch up, but Tesla has shown the future is here, and that gas vehicles are not a necessity in any realm. For the longest time you had the Nissan Leaf with a sub-100 mile range, which wasn't overly practical for most people. Then you had the S/X which had the range and performance, but were very pricey. Now you have proof positive that there is no reason not to make a transition to renewable. You have a comfortable sedan, reasonably priced, that can take on the biggest performance rival on the track. To me it's not a matter of the exact car comparisons, but simply to show that going forward there is nothing electric cars can't do and no reason not to lean on them going forward.
As for lower demand: Just one of those things people have been saying since the beginning of the company, and yet they continue to sell every car they can physically roll off the line. Even if demand goes down in the US, they've just started tapping China and Europe. During the last quarter the constraint was battery packs from Gigafactory. So they are switching focus to the Standard Range Plus model (with a smaller battery), as it'll allow them to make more cars with the same number of cells.
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Couple of notes here.
First when it comes to Elon fraud/savior: He is neither, but definitely leans towards the latter. He does have his Trump-isms in that he takes liberally to social media and crowds and makes huge claims and statements. The difference is, time after time, even if it's not quite on the timeline proposed, Elon delivers. The Model S wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model X wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model 3 wasn't viable, and it was made. Okay, but no way they can make over 5,000 a week, and it was. Full self driving is a fool's errand, but by most metrics they either lead the way or are among the leaders. All this while solar roofs and powerwalls start to gain traction. He's not always the smoothest speaker, and is certainly not perfect, but he has a ton of results to his name. Tesla's stated goal is to accelerate the transfer to renewable sources and they are hitting that goal head on.
As for the Model 3 v BMW 3 / Electricity v Fossils debate: The mass market has to catch up, but Tesla has shown the future is here, and that gas vehicles are not a necessity in any realm. For the longest time you had the Nissan Leaf with a sub-100 mile range, which wasn't overly practical for most people. Then you had the S/X which had the range and performance, but were very pricey. Now you have proof positive that there is no reason not to make a transition to renewable. You have a comfortable sedan, reasonably priced, that can take on the biggest performance rival on the track. To me it's not a matter of the exact car comparisons, but simply to show that going forward there is nothing electric cars can't do and no reason not to lean on them going forward.
As for lower demand: Just one of those things people have been saying since the beginning of the company, and yet they continue to sell every car they can physically roll off the line. Even if demand goes down in the US, they've just started tapping China and Europe. During the last quarter the constraint was battery packs from Gigafactory. So they are switching focus to the Standard Range Plus model (with a smaller battery), as it'll allow them to make more cars with the same number of cells.
I think it depends on your priorities. I personally like road trips. I'll drive from one corner of the country to the other, and I don't see that ever being a possibility in a battery powered car. I recognize that I'm a fossil, just like the BMWs, but to me that's a real loss. There's an Americana aspect that I find value in. I also see it as another step towards vehicles with a fixed life span, which is another big loss. I just don't see any chance of their battery packs being good for much more than 100k, and certainly not the 300k Elon is bragging about. Electric motors don't last forever, either. Whereas if you don't get 250k out of a good IC motor you done really screwed something up with it. Electric cars will eventually take over, but there are definite problems to be addressed before we consider that a good thing.
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Couple of notes here.
First when it comes to Elon fraud/savior: He is neither, but definitely leans towards the latter. He does have his Trump-isms in that he takes liberally to social media and crowds and makes huge claims and statements. The difference is, time after time, even if it's not quite on the timeline proposed, Elon delivers. The Model S wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model X wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model 3 wasn't viable, and it was made. Okay, but no way they can make over 5,000 a week, and it was. Full self driving is a fool's errand, but by most metrics they either lead the way or are among the leaders. All this while solar roofs and powerwalls start to gain traction. He's not always the smoothest speaker, and is certainly not perfect, but he has a ton of results to his name. Tesla's stated goal is to accelerate the transfer to renewable sources and they are hitting that goal head on.
As for the Model 3 v BMW 3 / Electricity v Fossils debate: The mass market has to catch up, but Tesla has shown the future is here, and that gas vehicles are not a necessity in any realm. For the longest time you had the Nissan Leaf with a sub-100 mile range, which wasn't overly practical for most people. Then you had the S/X which had the range and performance, but were very pricey. Now you have proof positive that there is no reason not to make a transition to renewable. You have a comfortable sedan, reasonably priced, that can take on the biggest performance rival on the track. To me it's not a matter of the exact car comparisons, but simply to show that going forward there is nothing electric cars can't do and no reason not to lean on them going forward.
As for lower demand: Just one of those things people have been saying since the beginning of the company, and yet they continue to sell every car they can physically roll off the line. Even if demand goes down in the US, they've just started tapping China and Europe. During the last quarter the constraint was battery packs from Gigafactory. So they are switching focus to the Standard Range Plus model (with a smaller battery), as it'll allow them to make more cars with the same number of cells.
I think it depends on your priorities. I personally like road trips. I'll drive from one corner of the country to the other, and I don't see that ever being a possibility in a battery powered car. I recognize that I'm a fossil, just like the BMWs, but to me that's a real loss. There's an Americana aspect that I find value in. I also see it as another step towards vehicles with a fixed life span, which is another big loss. I just don't see any chance of their battery packs being good for much more than 100k, and certainly not the 300k Elon is bragging about. Electric motors don't last forever, either. Whereas if you don't get 250k out of a good IC motor you done really screwed something up with it. Electric cars will eventually take over, but there are definite problems to be addressed before we consider that a good thing.
I mean, some of those problems are already addressed. There are plenty of Model S vehicles on the road with over 200k miles and less than 10% battery degradation. One can only assume they 3 will do even better in that regard. Right now this is only Tesla specific, and I still feel their greatest advantage going forward, but there is nowhere in America you can't go in a Tesla vehicle. Their supercharger network is great and growing.
Using my car as an example. It has 260 miles of range. Let's say I travel 200 miles over 3 or 3.5 hours. Yes, I'm going to have to stop at a supercharger for 30-45 minutes to recharge. But frankly after all that time on the road I'm going to want to eat, go to the bathroom, or just take a short walk or break at some local stores anyway. The only way you'll be limited on road trips with a Model 3, even cross country, is if you're trying to make it in the absolute shortest time possible. And with v3 superchargers just now rolling out even that time will come down.
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Couple of notes here.
First when it comes to Elon fraud/savior: He is neither, but definitely leans towards the latter. He does have his Trump-isms in that he takes liberally to social media and crowds and makes huge claims and statements. The difference is, time after time, even if it's not quite on the timeline proposed, Elon delivers. The Model S wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model X wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model 3 wasn't viable, and it was made. Okay, but no way they can make over 5,000 a week, and it was. Full self driving is a fool's errand, but by most metrics they either lead the way or are among the leaders. All this while solar roofs and powerwalls start to gain traction. He's not always the smoothest speaker, and is certainly not perfect, but he has a ton of results to his name. Tesla's stated goal is to accelerate the transfer to renewable sources and they are hitting that goal head on.
As for the Model 3 v BMW 3 / Electricity v Fossils debate: The mass market has to catch up, but Tesla has shown the future is here, and that gas vehicles are not a necessity in any realm. For the longest time you had the Nissan Leaf with a sub-100 mile range, which wasn't overly practical for most people. Then you had the S/X which had the range and performance, but were very pricey. Now you have proof positive that there is no reason not to make a transition to renewable. You have a comfortable sedan, reasonably priced, that can take on the biggest performance rival on the track. To me it's not a matter of the exact car comparisons, but simply to show that going forward there is nothing electric cars can't do and no reason not to lean on them going forward.
As for lower demand: Just one of those things people have been saying since the beginning of the company, and yet they continue to sell every car they can physically roll off the line. Even if demand goes down in the US, they've just started tapping China and Europe. During the last quarter the constraint was battery packs from Gigafactory. So they are switching focus to the Standard Range Plus model (with a smaller battery), as it'll allow them to make more cars with the same number of cells.
I think it depends on your priorities. I personally like road trips. I'll drive from one corner of the country to the other, and I don't see that ever being a possibility in a battery powered car.
This will change in no time. In less than 10 years in the RC world, we've gone from NiMh packs giving me 11-14 minutes of run time to LiPo packs giving me 35-45 minutes. Elon is already claiming the second generation roadster will have a 600 mile range. The day will come when you'll be able to get from New England to Orlando with one stop in between.
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Personally I have two issues with Teslas. Not knowing anything about how they are designed, they feel like they are made to be more a cool piece of technology instead of a cool car. That's of course, just my opinion. The technology should be an augmentation to the experience of driving, and not the main attraction. Eventually, it's likely that cars will become like washing machines or basic appliances. Sure, they may look okay on the outside, and they do their job well on a consistent basis, but let's face it, no one really gets excited to take their washer for a spin. Especially when self-driving becomes even more prevalent and the experience of driving is removed completely.
My main issue isn't with the cars though. It's the owners - at least in my experiences with them. Tesla owners seem to love to inundate everyone in their vicinity with how awesome and futuristic their car is and it gets really tiring after the 3rd or 20th time I hear it. If someone kept coming into work or to my house talking about how amazing it was to drive there in their S-Class or Maserati, they would be seen at the world's biggest dick.
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My main issue isn't with the cars though. It's the owners - at least in my experiences with them. Tesla owners seem to love to inundate everyone in their vicinity with how awesome and futuristic their car is and it gets really tiring after the 3rd or 20th time I hear it. If someone kept coming into work or to my house talking about how amazing it was to drive there in their S-Class or Maserati, they would be seen at the world's biggest dick.
And that is why South Park made some good jokes about it :lol
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My main issue isn't with the cars though. It's the owners - at least in my experiences with them. Tesla owners seem to love to inundate everyone in their vicinity with how awesome and futuristic their car is and it gets really tiring after the 3rd or 20th time I hear it. If someone kept coming into work or to my house talking about how amazing it was to drive there in their S-Class or Maserati, they would be seen at the world's biggest dick.
I agree, Tesla owners are the absolute worst. :p
In seriousness, two things I agree on, with some caveats. I hate the similarities I sometimes see between Tesla and its drivers and Apple and their users. Those similarities were the biggest strike against Tesla when looking into their vehicles. I also find some of Tesla's drivers, particularly on its official forum to be insufferable and awful.
That said, the reason I went ahead with my purchase, and the reason I will happily talk about it (with interested parties) is that it absolutely lives up to the hype in many ways, and if you are around a service center or store at some point you absolutely should try to drive one.
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Personally I have two issues with Teslas. Not knowing anything about how they are designed, they feel like they are made to be more a cool piece of technology instead of a cool car. That's of course, just my opinion. The technology should be an augmentation to the experience of driving, and not the main attraction. Eventually, it's likely that cars will become like washing machines or basic appliances. Sure, they may look okay on the outside, and they do their job well on a consistent basis, but let's face it, no one really gets excited to take their washer for a spin. Especially when self-driving becomes even more prevalent and the experience of driving is removed completely.
Have you ever gone for a ride in one? I did a 0-90 launch in a P100D and it was the most exhilarating thing I've ever experienced in a car, and that includes the time I went down a dragstrip in an 850HP Chevy Monza.
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Personally I have two issues with Teslas. Not knowing anything about how they are designed, they feel like they are made to be more a cool piece of technology instead of a cool car. That's of course, just my opinion. The technology should be an augmentation to the experience of driving, and not the main attraction. Eventually, it's likely that cars will become like washing machines or basic appliances. Sure, they may look okay on the outside, and they do their job well on a consistent basis, but let's face it, no one really gets excited to take their washer for a spin. Especially when self-driving becomes even more prevalent and the experience of driving is removed completely.
Have you ever gone for a ride in one? I did a 0-90 launch in a P100D and it was the most exhilarating thing I've ever experienced in a car, and that includes the time I went down a dragstrip in an 850HP Chevy Monza.
When I had my Model S P85D loaner I took several people (car guys among them) for short spins and there was a lot of "holy fuck" moments. That's what sets these cars apart especially from other electric cars. They aren't just logical, tech heavy, and clean. They are great cars to drive.
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Couple of notes here.
First when it comes to Elon fraud/savior: He is neither, but definitely leans towards the latter. He does have his Trump-isms in that he takes liberally to social media and crowds and makes huge claims and statements. The difference is, time after time, even if it's not quite on the timeline proposed, Elon delivers. The Model S wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model X wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model 3 wasn't viable, and it was made. Okay, but no way they can make over 5,000 a week, and it was. Full self driving is a fool's errand, but by most metrics they either lead the way or are among the leaders. All this while solar roofs and powerwalls start to gain traction. He's not always the smoothest speaker, and is certainly not perfect, but he has a ton of results to his name. Tesla's stated goal is to accelerate the transfer to renewable sources and they are hitting that goal head on.
As for the Model 3 v BMW 3 / Electricity v Fossils debate: The mass market has to catch up, but Tesla has shown the future is here, and that gas vehicles are not a necessity in any realm. For the longest time you had the Nissan Leaf with a sub-100 mile range, which wasn't overly practical for most people. Then you had the S/X which had the range and performance, but were very pricey. Now you have proof positive that there is no reason not to make a transition to renewable. You have a comfortable sedan, reasonably priced, that can take on the biggest performance rival on the track. To me it's not a matter of the exact car comparisons, but simply to show that going forward there is nothing electric cars can't do and no reason not to lean on them going forward.
As for lower demand: Just one of those things people have been saying since the beginning of the company, and yet they continue to sell every car they can physically roll off the line. Even if demand goes down in the US, they've just started tapping China and Europe. During the last quarter the constraint was battery packs from Gigafactory. So they are switching focus to the Standard Range Plus model (with a smaller battery), as it'll allow them to make more cars with the same number of cells.
I think it depends on your priorities. I personally like road trips. I'll drive from one corner of the country to the other, and I don't see that ever being a possibility in a battery powered car. I recognize that I'm a fossil, just like the BMWs, but to me that's a real loss. There's an Americana aspect that I find value in. I also see it as another step towards vehicles with a fixed life span, which is another big loss. I just don't see any chance of their battery packs being good for much more than 100k, and certainly not the 300k Elon is bragging about. Electric motors don't last forever, either. Whereas if you don't get 250k out of a good IC motor you done really screwed something up with it. Electric cars will eventually take over, but there are definite problems to be addressed before we consider that a good thing.
I mean, some of those problems are already addressed. There are plenty of Model S vehicles on the road with over 200k miles and less than 10% battery degradation. One can only assume they 3 will do even better in that regard. Right now this is only Tesla specific, and I still feel their greatest advantage going forward, but there is nowhere in America you can't go in a Tesla vehicle. Their supercharger network is great and growing.
Using my car as an example. It has 260 miles of range. Let's say I travel 200 miles over 3 or 3.5 hours. Yes, I'm going to have to stop at a supercharger for 30-45 minutes to recharge. But frankly after all that time on the road I'm going to want to eat, go to the bathroom, or just take a short walk or break at some local stores anyway. The only way you'll be limited on road trips with a Model 3, even cross country, is if you're trying to make it in the absolute shortest time possible. And with v3 superchargers just now rolling out even that time will come down.
Fair enough. I still have my doubts about the batteries, keeping in mind that Texas gets hot, but I'll take your word that they're better than I think.
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Yes, I've driven a Model X P90D, and don't get me wrong, it was fast and incredibly smooth. Maybe I'm old fashioned, but I did miss the sound. It is startling to put your foot down and hear nothing.
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Personally I have two issues with Teslas. Not knowing anything about how they are designed, they feel like they are made to be more a cool piece of technology instead of a cool car. That's of course, just my opinion. The technology should be an augmentation to the experience of driving, and not the main attraction. Eventually, it's likely that cars will become like washing machines or basic appliances. Sure, they may look okay on the outside, and they do their job well on a consistent basis, but let's face it, no one really gets excited to take their washer for a spin. Especially when self-driving becomes even more prevalent and the experience of driving is removed completely.
Have you ever gone for a ride in one? I did a 0-90 launch in a P100D and it was the most exhilarating thing I've ever experienced in a car, and that includes the time I went down a dragstrip in an 850HP Chevy Monza.
When I had my Model S P85D loaner I took several people (car guys among them) for short spins and there was a lot of "holy fuck" moments. That's what sets these cars apart especially from other electric cars. They aren't just logical, tech heavy, and clean. They are great cars to drive.
Yeah, I don't doubt that for a second. At the same time there's definitely some validity to FP's point. It's just not something that's limited to Teslas. All cars are becoming more and more technological, and in doing so they're becoming more and more separated from the driving experience. I'm pretty confident that 0-60 in 3 seconds in a Teslas is a hoot. My guess is that rather than starting the car, putting in Go, and stomping on the pedal you actually have to run down a checklist, setting this and activating that. And even then you're still at the behest of the car as to whether or not you're allowed to do it. This is no different than the M3s that started this discussion. Honestly, despite being years away from fully autonomous cars, we as drivers are being increasingly relegated to passengers. Again, I'm a dinosaur, but I think this is a shame. Rush should get back together and write a song about a futuristic kid who finds his uncle's vintage Model 3, spends 10 minutes trying to figure out how to start the thing, before finally being told he's not allowed to drive it as it's no longer legal in his particular territory.
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Couple of notes here.
First when it comes to Elon fraud/savior: He is neither, but definitely leans towards the latter. He does have his Trump-isms in that he takes liberally to social media and crowds and makes huge claims and statements. The difference is, time after time, even if it's not quite on the timeline proposed, Elon delivers. The Model S wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model X wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model 3 wasn't viable, and it was made. Okay, but no way they can make over 5,000 a week, and it was. Full self driving is a fool's errand, but by most metrics they either lead the way or are among the leaders. All this while solar roofs and powerwalls start to gain traction. He's not always the smoothest speaker, and is certainly not perfect, but he has a ton of results to his name. Tesla's stated goal is to accelerate the transfer to renewable sources and they are hitting that goal head on.
As for the Model 3 v BMW 3 / Electricity v Fossils debate: The mass market has to catch up, but Tesla has shown the future is here, and that gas vehicles are not a necessity in any realm. For the longest time you had the Nissan Leaf with a sub-100 mile range, which wasn't overly practical for most people. Then you had the S/X which had the range and performance, but were very pricey. Now you have proof positive that there is no reason not to make a transition to renewable. You have a comfortable sedan, reasonably priced, that can take on the biggest performance rival on the track. To me it's not a matter of the exact car comparisons, but simply to show that going forward there is nothing electric cars can't do and no reason not to lean on them going forward.
As for lower demand: Just one of those things people have been saying since the beginning of the company, and yet they continue to sell every car they can physically roll off the line. Even if demand goes down in the US, they've just started tapping China and Europe. During the last quarter the constraint was battery packs from Gigafactory. So they are switching focus to the Standard Range Plus model (with a smaller battery), as it'll allow them to make more cars with the same number of cells.
I think it depends on your priorities. I personally like road trips. I'll drive from one corner of the country to the other, and I don't see that ever being a possibility in a battery powered car. I recognize that I'm a fossil, just like the BMWs, but to me that's a real loss. There's an Americana aspect that I find value in. I also see it as another step towards vehicles with a fixed life span, which is another big loss. I just don't see any chance of their battery packs being good for much more than 100k, and certainly not the 300k Elon is bragging about. Electric motors don't last forever, either. Whereas if you don't get 250k out of a good IC motor you done really screwed something up with it. Electric cars will eventually take over, but there are definite problems to be addressed before we consider that a good thing.
I mean, some of those problems are already addressed. There are plenty of Model S vehicles on the road with over 200k miles and less than 10% battery degradation. One can only assume they 3 will do even better in that regard. Right now this is only Tesla specific, and I still feel their greatest advantage going forward, but there is nowhere in America you can't go in a Tesla vehicle. Their supercharger network is great and growing.
Using my car as an example. It has 260 miles of range. Let's say I travel 200 miles over 3 or 3.5 hours. Yes, I'm going to have to stop at a supercharger for 30-45 minutes to recharge. But frankly after all that time on the road I'm going to want to eat, go to the bathroom, or just take a short walk or break at some local stores anyway. The only way you'll be limited on road trips with a Model 3, even cross country, is if you're trying to make it in the absolute shortest time possible. And with v3 superchargers just now rolling out even that time will come down.
Fair enough. I still have my doubts about the batteries, keeping in mind that Texas gets hot, but I'll take your word that they're better than I think.
FWIW climate control is by far the biggest factor, outside of maybe driving style on the actual vs. stated range on electric vehicles. I don't know if the same holds true for battery charging speed, but as far as impact on range cold weather tends to have much more impact than hot weather in basically any EV or PHEV I've read on. I'm no expert on the science behind it, but apparently it takes much less electricity to cool a car than it does to warm it.
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Yes, I've driven a Model X P90D, and don't get me wrong, it was fast and incredibly smooth. Maybe I'm old fashioned, but I did miss the sound. It is startling to put your foot down and hear nothing.
I'm the opposite, that lack of sound is the beauty of the car. Nothing I can stand less than fucking modded out pieces of shit that sound like racecars at 30mph. This is the antithesis of that. All the power you could want, instantly, seemingly effortlessly.
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Couple of notes here.
First when it comes to Elon fraud/savior: He is neither, but definitely leans towards the latter. He does have his Trump-isms in that he takes liberally to social media and crowds and makes huge claims and statements. The difference is, time after time, even if it's not quite on the timeline proposed, Elon delivers. The Model S wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model X wasn't viable, and it was made. The Model 3 wasn't viable, and it was made. Okay, but no way they can make over 5,000 a week, and it was. Full self driving is a fool's errand, but by most metrics they either lead the way or are among the leaders. All this while solar roofs and powerwalls start to gain traction. He's not always the smoothest speaker, and is certainly not perfect, but he has a ton of results to his name. Tesla's stated goal is to accelerate the transfer to renewable sources and they are hitting that goal head on.
As for the Model 3 v BMW 3 / Electricity v Fossils debate: The mass market has to catch up, but Tesla has shown the future is here, and that gas vehicles are not a necessity in any realm. For the longest time you had the Nissan Leaf with a sub-100 mile range, which wasn't overly practical for most people. Then you had the S/X which had the range and performance, but were very pricey. Now you have proof positive that there is no reason not to make a transition to renewable. You have a comfortable sedan, reasonably priced, that can take on the biggest performance rival on the track. To me it's not a matter of the exact car comparisons, but simply to show that going forward there is nothing electric cars can't do and no reason not to lean on them going forward.
As for lower demand: Just one of those things people have been saying since the beginning of the company, and yet they continue to sell every car they can physically roll off the line. Even if demand goes down in the US, they've just started tapping China and Europe. During the last quarter the constraint was battery packs from Gigafactory. So they are switching focus to the Standard Range Plus model (with a smaller battery), as it'll allow them to make more cars with the same number of cells.
I think it depends on your priorities. I personally like road trips. I'll drive from one corner of the country to the other, and I don't see that ever being a possibility in a battery powered car. I recognize that I'm a fossil, just like the BMWs, but to me that's a real loss. There's an Americana aspect that I find value in. I also see it as another step towards vehicles with a fixed life span, which is another big loss. I just don't see any chance of their battery packs being good for much more than 100k, and certainly not the 300k Elon is bragging about. Electric motors don't last forever, either. Whereas if you don't get 250k out of a good IC motor you done really screwed something up with it. Electric cars will eventually take over, but there are definite problems to be addressed before we consider that a good thing.
I mean, some of those problems are already addressed. There are plenty of Model S vehicles on the road with over 200k miles and less than 10% battery degradation. One can only assume they 3 will do even better in that regard. Right now this is only Tesla specific, and I still feel their greatest advantage going forward, but there is nowhere in America you can't go in a Tesla vehicle. Their supercharger network is great and growing.
Using my car as an example. It has 260 miles of range. Let's say I travel 200 miles over 3 or 3.5 hours. Yes, I'm going to have to stop at a supercharger for 30-45 minutes to recharge. But frankly after all that time on the road I'm going to want to eat, go to the bathroom, or just take a short walk or break at some local stores anyway. The only way you'll be limited on road trips with a Model 3, even cross country, is if you're trying to make it in the absolute shortest time possible. And with v3 superchargers just now rolling out even that time will come down.
Fair enough. I still have my doubts about the batteries, keeping in mind that Texas gets hot, but I'll take your word that they're better than I think.
FWIW climate control is by far the biggest factor, outside of maybe driving style on the actual vs. stated range on electric vehicles. I don't know if the same holds true for battery charging speed, but as far as impact on range cold weather tends to have much more impact than hot weather in basically any EV or PHEV I've read on. I'm no expert on the science behind it, but apparently it takes much less electricity to cool a car than it does to warm it.
I wasn't looking at it in terms of range, though that's certainly a valid concern. Heat kills batteries. It's the effect of 10 Texas summers on the batteries' lifespans that I have to wonder about.
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I can't speak as well to other makers, other than some (most notably the new Leaf) being derided for not having it, but Tesla is said to have an excellent battery thermal management system which is very integral to their long life.
Essentially in high heat you'll experience "vampire drain" where the car loses a few miles of range when it's parked seemingly doing nothing, but what it's actually doing is using some of its electricity to cool the parts of the battery system that need to be cooled to maintain optimum health.
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Personally I have two issues with Teslas. Not knowing anything about how they are designed, they feel like they are made to be more a cool piece of technology instead of a cool car. That's of course, just my opinion. The technology should be an augmentation to the experience of driving, and not the main attraction. Eventually, it's likely that cars will become like washing machines or basic appliances. Sure, they may look okay on the outside, and they do their job well on a consistent basis, but let's face it, no one really gets excited to take their washer for a spin. Especially when self-driving becomes even more prevalent and the experience of driving is removed completely.
Have you ever gone for a ride in one? I did a 0-90 launch in a P100D and it was the most exhilarating thing I've ever experienced in a car, and that includes the time I went down a dragstrip in an 850HP Chevy Monza.
When I had my Model S P85D loaner I took several people (car guys among them) for short spins and there was a lot of "holy fuck" moments. That's what sets these cars apart especially from other electric cars. They aren't just logical, tech heavy, and clean. They are great cars to drive.
Yeah, I don't doubt that for a second. At the same time there's definitely some validity to FP's point. It's just not something that's limited to Teslas. All cars are becoming more and more technological, and in doing so they're becoming more and more separated from the driving experience. I'm pretty confident that 0-60 in 3 seconds in a Teslas is a hoot. My guess is that rather than starting the car, putting in Go, and stomping on the pedal you actually have to run down a checklist, setting this and activating that. And even then you're still at the behest of the car as to whether or not you're allowed to do it. This is no different than the M3s that started this discussion. Honestly, despite being years away from fully autonomous cars, we as drivers are being increasingly relegated to passengers. Again, I'm a dinosaur, but I think this is a shame. Rush should get back together and write a song about a futuristic kid who finds his uncle's vintage Model 3, spends 10 minutes trying to figure out how to start the thing, before finally being told he's not allowed to drive it as it's no longer legal in his particular territory.
But that last part has some truth. Forget about the fuel source, but there's a beauty, a simplicity to an IC engine. Just last night, I went to NAPA and bought pads, rotors, and a caliper to do brakes on my son's Passat, and I have pads and rotors coming in to go on my BMW. I can do this. In talking to my step son - who worked for a time as a tech at a regional BMW around here - working on cars is his joy, with an intangible portion. Two mechanics can work on the same car and come out in (mildly) different places (this is why auto racing is what it is). But the few times he worked on the electric cars, it was like science class.
Not a reason to hold back technology, to be sure, but it's something that I think someone somewhere will address at some point in time ("an electric car with the feel and serviceability of a gas-powered car!").
Oh, and the sound thing... I almost got hit by a dude in an electric car in Philly, because it made literally zero sound. Sure, it might be cool, and sure I will no doubt get used to it, but it's a process like anything else.
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Repping the Elon is a fraud side...
Tesla is... fine, I guess, but he takes a lot of undue credit for it, Trump style. There appears to be an aura of suspicion around its business practices and I doubt it'll be solvent in a couple years. SpaceX is... fine, I guess. Pretty much everything else he does is some combination of asinine, impossible, and detracts from actual solutions.
Case-in-point is the Loop. He wants to "fix traffic" by building super high-speed tunnels under cities, accessed via elevator? Yeah, there are a great many reasons that's not gonna work.
The Hyperloop is absolute fantasy. Any time and money devoted to it should be reallocated to real trains.
Speaking of trains, whether everyone is hauling around two tons of metal and gasoline or two tons of metal and lithium, way, WAY too many resources are consumed in automobile-based transit.
In terms of why the "Elon is a fraud" guys are such crass assholes about it... we got sick of the sheer volume of nerds fellating him online. A couple decades from now, he will have achieved nothing substantial for the betterment of humanity. Well-informed pieces have been composed about how his stupid ideas are a waste of time and money, only to be inundated with extremely defensive nerds throwing a temper tantrum because he's beyond criticism or something.
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Repping the Elon is a fraud side...
Tesla is... fine, I guess, but he takes a lot of undue credit for it, Trump style. There appears to be an aura of suspicion around its business practices and I doubt it'll be solvent in a couple years. SpaceX is... fine, I guess. Pretty much everything else he does is some combination of asinine, impossible, and detracts from actual solutions.
Case-in-point is the Loop. He wants to "fix traffic" by building super high-speed tunnels under cities, accessed via elevator? Yeah, there are a great many reasons that's not gonna work.
The Hyperloop is absolute fantasy. Any time and money devoted to it should be reallocated to real trains.
Speaking of trains, whether everyone is hauling around two tons of metal and gasoline or two tons of metal and lithium, way, WAY too many resources are consumed in automobile-based transit.
In terms of why the "Elon is a fraud" guys are such crass assholes about it... we got sick of the sheer volume of nerds fellating him online. A couple decades from now, he will have achieved nothing substantial for the betterment of humanity. Well-informed pieces have been composed about how his stupid ideas are a waste of time and money, only to be inundated with extremely defensive nerds throwing a temper tantrum because he's beyond criticism or something.
I mean, if this type of post is par for the course I'd understand why a sheer volume of nerds would be upset.
Whether or not you like Tesla or Space X their success can not be understated. Tesla took on a new type of car, made it work, and then made it to the masses, becoming the most successful American car company in what, 75+ years? Valuation at one point was above GM and Ford. Space X is the best and most exciting private space enterprise ever. I'll agree that the rest of his companies definitely leave things to be desired, but you're allowed a few pipe dreams when you've already done the impossible twice.
The line about metal and lithium is just silly. The Tesla semi and trucks like it, along with the electric vehicles already here, backed by a future in renewable energy could absolutely transform how clean and otherwise dirty transit system can be. Could it be better, always, but that's not a reason not to progress forward with such a great step.
And I agree that his online following can be a little tiresome, but again, unlike Trump he's earned a fair share of it. Like it or not he's done more to move humanity forward than you or I or probably anyone any of us know will ever do. As long as his faults end at crass asshole, twitter idiot at times, and herder of sheep as opposed to finding out he's got the world's largest collection of kiddy porn or beats every women he's with I'm quite fine with the praise he gets.
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Personally I have two issues with Teslas. Not knowing anything about how they are designed, they feel like they are made to be more a cool piece of technology instead of a cool car. That's of course, just my opinion. The technology should be an augmentation to the experience of driving, and not the main attraction. Eventually, it's likely that cars will become like washing machines or basic appliances. Sure, they may look okay on the outside, and they do their job well on a consistent basis, but let's face it, no one really gets excited to take their washer for a spin. Especially when self-driving becomes even more prevalent and the experience of driving is removed completely.
Have you ever gone for a ride in one? I did a 0-90 launch in a P100D and it was the most exhilarating thing I've ever experienced in a car, and that includes the time I went down a dragstrip in an 850HP Chevy Monza.
When I had my Model S P85D loaner I took several people (car guys among them) for short spins and there was a lot of "holy fuck" moments. That's what sets these cars apart especially from other electric cars. They aren't just logical, tech heavy, and clean. They are great cars to drive.
Yeah, I don't doubt that for a second. At the same time there's definitely some validity to FP's point. It's just not something that's limited to Teslas. All cars are becoming more and more technological, and in doing so they're becoming more and more separated from the driving experience. I'm pretty confident that 0-60 in 3 seconds in a Teslas is a hoot. My guess is that rather than starting the car, putting in Go, and stomping on the pedal you actually have to run down a checklist, setting this and activating that. And even then you're still at the behest of the car as to whether or not you're allowed to do it. This is no different than the M3s that started this discussion. Honestly, despite being years away from fully autonomous cars, we as drivers are being increasingly relegated to passengers. Again, I'm a dinosaur, but I think this is a shame. Rush should get back together and write a song about a futuristic kid who finds his uncle's vintage Model 3, spends 10 minutes trying to figure out how to start the thing, before finally being told he's not allowed to drive it as it's no longer legal in his particular territory.
But that last part has some truth. Forget about the fuel source, but there's a beauty, a simplicity to an IC engine. Just last night, I went to NAPA and bought pads, rotors, and a caliper to do brakes on my son's Passat, and I have pads and rotors coming in to go on my BMW. I can do this. In talking to my step son - who worked for a time as a tech at a regional BMW around here - working on cars is his joy, with an intangible portion. Two mechanics can work on the same car and come out in (mildly) different places (this is why auto racing is what it is). But the few times he worked on the electric cars, it was like science class.
Not a reason to hold back technology, to be sure, but it's something that I think someone somewhere will address at some point in time ("an electric car with the feel and serviceability of a gas-powered car!").
Oh, and the sound thing... I almost got hit by a dude in an electric car in Philly, because it made literally zero sound. Sure, it might be cool, and sure I will no doubt get used to it, but it's a process like anything else.
I honestly am so amused (even if I understand the reaction) that people will still prefer gas cars essentially because there are more things that can easily break or be upgraded, as opposed to just working simply and optimally from the start.
Couple of points. There is nothing simply about an ICE, quite the contrary when compared to a motor. Brakes and rotors have nothing to do with an ICE, and you'll certainly find both on an electric vehicle and could theoretically change them, even though you'd most likely never have to over the life of the vehicle. Sure, on the engine you can change an air filter or spark plugs, but past that there are dozens or more of complicated, difficult, and costly fixes that can happen. Anyone who says there is simplicity to an engine has never had to remove it and fix a cracked piston. If anything the beauty of the ICE is how well we have refined it to work in spite of, or by the addition of its complexity. Like the human body you have the engine as the muscles of the car that make it move, but it needs oil to work, gas to feed it, air to cool it, and all those systems are woven into it.
An electric car can get complicated, especially with Tesla, but the basic drive train at its core is surely a simpler and easier concept, which is where I find its beauty. Onto the complex side of the electric equation, that's why it'll take gearheads and the equivalent a long time to accept them. The easy stuff is so well refined that there is nothing to do on that front, but the hard stuff is so far out of their wheel house that they don't want to learn it. It's not that these vehicles can't be tinkered with, it's that the people who have generations of knowledge on ICE cars don't have the tools to modify this new type of vehicle. And as is typical they hate what they don't understand. Electricians and hackers could have a field day messing around with the systems in an electric vehicle, but it's a whole different subset of people than your traditional car guys. And just like no one likes to have to re-train for a new career, no one deeply invested into ICE is going to want to come up to speed on electric vehicles. They will slowly die off over time as the new wave adopts the new technology. I don't say that in a detrimental or negative way, but simply how I see the change happening.
And as for the sound thing, as long as even normal hybrids have been around that's been talked about. I can't remember if it was a congressional thing or an agency thing, but there was a push to force EVs/Hybrids to emit an artificial sound under a certain speed, but I don't recall what happened with that.
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Personally I have two issues with Teslas. Not knowing anything about how they are designed, they feel like they are made to be more a cool piece of technology instead of a cool car. That's of course, just my opinion. The technology should be an augmentation to the experience of driving, and not the main attraction. Eventually, it's likely that cars will become like washing machines or basic appliances. Sure, they may look okay on the outside, and they do their job well on a consistent basis, but let's face it, no one really gets excited to take their washer for a spin. Especially when self-driving becomes even more prevalent and the experience of driving is removed completely.
Have you ever gone for a ride in one? I did a 0-90 launch in a P100D and it was the most exhilarating thing I've ever experienced in a car, and that includes the time I went down a dragstrip in an 850HP Chevy Monza.
When I had my Model S P85D loaner I took several people (car guys among them) for short spins and there was a lot of "holy fuck" moments. That's what sets these cars apart especially from other electric cars. They aren't just logical, tech heavy, and clean. They are great cars to drive.
Yeah, I don't doubt that for a second. At the same time there's definitely some validity to FP's point. It's just not something that's limited to Teslas. All cars are becoming more and more technological, and in doing so they're becoming more and more separated from the driving experience. I'm pretty confident that 0-60 in 3 seconds in a Teslas is a hoot. My guess is that rather than starting the car, putting in Go, and stomping on the pedal you actually have to run down a checklist, setting this and activating that. And even then you're still at the behest of the car as to whether or not you're allowed to do it. This is no different than the M3s that started this discussion. Honestly, despite being years away from fully autonomous cars, we as drivers are being increasingly relegated to passengers. Again, I'm a dinosaur, but I think this is a shame. Rush should get back together and write a song about a futuristic kid who finds his uncle's vintage Model 3, spends 10 minutes trying to figure out how to start the thing, before finally being told he's not allowed to drive it as it's no longer legal in his particular territory.
But that last part has some truth. Forget about the fuel source, but there's a beauty, a simplicity to an IC engine. Just last night, I went to NAPA and bought pads, rotors, and a caliper to do brakes on my son's Passat, and I have pads and rotors coming in to go on my BMW. I can do this. In talking to my step son - who worked for a time as a tech at a regional BMW around here - working on cars is his joy, with an intangible portion. Two mechanics can work on the same car and come out in (mildly) different places (this is why auto racing is what it is). But the few times he worked on the electric cars, it was like science class.
Not a reason to hold back technology, to be sure, but it's something that I think someone somewhere will address at some point in time ("an electric car with the feel and serviceability of a gas-powered car!").
Oh, and the sound thing... I almost got hit by a dude in an electric car in Philly, because it made literally zero sound. Sure, it might be cool, and sure I will no doubt get used to it, but it's a process like anything else.
I honestly am so amused (even if I understand the reaction) that people will still prefer gas cars essentially because there are more things that can easily break or be upgraded, as opposed to just working simply and optimally from the start.
Couple of points. There is nothing simply about an ICE, quite the contrary when compared to a motor. Brakes and rotors have nothing to do with an ICE, and you'll certainly find both on an electric vehicle and could theoretically change them, even though you'd most likely never have to over the life of the vehicle. Sure, on the engine you can change an air filter or spark plugs, but past that there are dozens or more of complicated, difficult, and costly fixes that can happen. Anyone who says there is simplicity to an engine has never had to remove it and fix a cracked piston. If anything the beauty of the ICE is how well we have refined it to work in spite of, or by the addition of its complexity. Like the human body you have the engine as the muscles of the car that make it move, but it needs oil to work, gas to feed it, air to cool it, and all those systems are woven into it.
An electric car can get complicated, especially with Tesla, but the basic drive train at its core is surely a simpler and easier concept, which is where I find its beauty. Onto the complex side of the electric equation, that's why it'll take gearheads and the equivalent a long time to accept them. The easy stuff is so well refined that there is nothing to do on that front, but the hard stuff is so far out of their wheel house that they don't want to learn it. It's not that these vehicles can't be tinkered with, it's that the people who have generations of knowledge on ICE cars don't have the tools to modify this new type of vehicle. And as is typical they hate what they don't understand. Electricians and hackers could have a field day messing around with the systems in an electric vehicle, but it's a whole different subset of people than your traditional car guys. And just like no one likes to have to re-train for a new career, no one deeply invested into ICE is going to want to come up to speed on electric vehicles. They will slowly die off over time as the new wave adopts the new technology. I don't say that in a detrimental or negative way, but simply how I see the change happening.
And as for the sound thing, as long as even normal hybrids have been around that's been talked about. I can't remember if it was a congressional thing or an agency thing, but there was a push to force EVs/Hybrids to emit an artificial sound under a certain speed, but I don't recall what happened with that.
I'm largely on your side here, so this isn't me arguing with you. Aside from the batteries I see no reason that a Tesla won't be like any other car insofar as maintenance goes. I haven't had to worry about engine problems for 20+ years as all of mine have been bullet proof. It's the secondary stuff that you worry about and the Tesla will be no difference. You did hint at one of the drawbacks of it, though. Everything that makes a Tesla go will be proprietary, so if mechanics are even allowed to own the tools it'll likely be cost prohibitive. They guys who work on my BMW operate their shop just as a means to finance their racing addiction. There are several such shops in DFW. I had the same setup with my RX7. They'll repair the stuff that goes wrong for a fraction of the price of taking it to a dealer, and that won't be the case with a modern Tesla. That's actually where I see the Apple comparison. If my transmission goes up in smoke my shop will pull one from one of their donor cars and have me back on the road fro a tiny fraction of the $6k BMW would charge. Doubt that'll be an option with a Tesla and one of those high-tech CVTs. Anybody can do the brakes on my car. I did mine 3 weeks ago. That doesn't seem to be the case with Tesla's, and despite Elon's claims there is no such thing as lifetime pads and rotors. Seems the dealer wants ~$1500 or so for a brake job.
So while I agree with you that in many ways the Tesla will be lower maintenance (ICE cooling will likely be the biggest difference), there will still be much of the same maintenance problems that you'll have to pay a lot more to get taken care of.
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I am totally with you on service/apple comparison when it comes to Tesla, and again was my biggest fear going into the car, but that's a knock on Tesla and not EVs as a whole I feel. As for the brakes I'm going to have to disagree a bit. There are lots Model S owners with 200k and 300k miles who have never had to change their brake pads.
Hell, my last car was a plug in hybrid with mild regenerative braking and even so after 40k+ in the final inspection right before transferring it my brakes had minimal wear.
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I am totally with you on service/apple comparison when it comes to Tesla, and again was my biggest fear going into the car, but that's a knock on Tesla and not EVs as a whole I feel. As for the brakes I'm going to have to disagree a bit. There are lots Model S owners with 200k and 300k miles who have never had to change their brake pads.
Hell, my last car was a plug in hybrid with mild regenerative braking and even so after 40k+ in the final inspection right before transferring it my brakes had minimal wear.
I wouldn't be as concerned about the brake pads as the rotors. Rotors warp. I still had a fair amount of pad left 3 weeks ago, but replaced it all because I couldn't tolerate the shimmy anymore. It'll be largely dependent on how aggressively you drive, but there are plenty of ways to quickly warp a rotor, and I see plenty of reports of that happening with Tesla owners.
Having said that, the fact that the brakes are used so sparingly really is a big plus for that car. That's one of the things I miss about driving a stick.
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Like I said, I'm not adverse to EVs. I want a Golf EV; it's just that I'd like to drive a stick while I still can, I park on a road (parents get dibs on driveway obv, detached garage is exclusively for dad's tools and bikes and such), and I don't know what my long term plans for college are. Driving 367 miles to/from my old school 4+ times per year would not have been fun in an 80 mile range vehicle. The school which I would really like to attend down the line is a thousand miles away from my home.
Anyway, current vehicle is a 2000 Grand Marqius. Sure, the car, outside of the pristine ashtray, was full of cigarette ash and large burn holes in the upholstery, and every surface was coated in tar. But for a thousand bucks, a bulletproof engine (outside of its shite intake manifold which will surely implode in the next couple years) and <27k miles, I really couldn't complain. 2.5 years later, up to about 48k, and most of the tobacco remnants are gone. (No comment on other kinds of smoke damage.)
Now, I have every right to complain about the bald spots I caused on the front tires last summer, and how it makes the car shake, but that's my fault for putting off tire replacement until I can afford a set of alloys, a set of summers, and a set of winters. You may think that's overkill, but I will probably be attending school in Rochester for at least a semester, and trust me, they're necessary up there. That's doubly so if the original buyer of your car decided not splurge on ABS or traction control. Honestly I'll replace them (+whatever I rattled loose in the suspension in the meantime) once I have a somewhat consistent source of income again.
I'd also like to figure out how to minimize these dents, mainly the one on the door:
(https://i.imgur.com/YYpt0CP.jpg)
My dad thinks I should seek out one of those mobile dent pullers, that they'll be able to get it pretty tolerable for under a hundred bucks. I tried the suction thing; no dice.
Yes, that is an early nineties Tercel with a racing stripe in the background. My neighbor did that to his grandma's car when he was like fifteen. The stories I could tell about that kid...
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Just pop the inside door panel off and push the dent out. You'll find a hundred different DIY writeups how to do it and it'll take less than an hour. While you're in there be sure and lube the window regulator.
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Thought about doing that too. As you can see, by my shirt above, even the simplest DIY jobs I do tend to go horribly wrong. Why are my speakers buzzing? Why are $50 JVC headunits absolute trash? Why is my driveway horribly stained? Where are my hubcap bolts? Where did that screw come from?
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I am totally with you on service/apple comparison when it comes to Tesla, and again was my biggest fear going into the car, but that's a knock on Tesla and not EVs as a whole I feel. As for the brakes I'm going to have to disagree a bit. There are lots Model S owners with 200k and 300k miles who have never had to change their brake pads.
Hell, my last car was a plug in hybrid with mild regenerative braking and even so after 40k+ in the final inspection right before transferring it my brakes had minimal wear.
I think you and I are talking past each other a little bit. I'm not exactly where you are on all points - you think higher of Musk than I do, and you're more forgiving of the company and it's financial metrics; if that was "AIG" or a pharmaceutical I think it'd be a different story - but I'm all in favor of electric cars as a means of clean transportation. 1000%. I didn't make my point to argue against electric cars. I made my point in a more nostalgic way. It's almost like the difference between a '59 Strat through an old Fender tweed amp versus the kid with an Apple laptop, a set of headphones, and a folder full of plug-ins. Both have their place, both have their upsides/downsides, and neither are, at the end of the day, in direct competition.
(And for the record, I fucked up the brake job. Well, not really, but I ended up having to replace BOTH calipers on the back, and in doing so let too much brake fluid drain, introducing more air than I could release with simple two-man bleed. I don't have the vacuum pump, so in it goes to my local guy to do a system bleed. Feel frustrated, but it is what it is.)
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To break up the Tesla talk I did the M Town Tour today in Charlotte and it was fantastic, google it if it's coming to your area and sign up. Basically BMW USA comes to a local dealer and lets have 20 minutes with either a m2 competition, m340, m5 competition, m850i or X3M. I signed up for the M2, M340, M5, and M850. I got there and they told me they didn't have the m340 so instead they gave me an m4 and told me to take it out for 40 minutes, it was incredible, the car handles and pulls like you wouldn't believe. I took the M850 for a spin and it was just amazing ride, I then took the M2 out and now I really, really, really want one and finally i took the M5 out. The M5 is absurd, the brakes, gear shifts and the way it pulls is indescribable. Granted, tesla will do 0-60 faster than the m5 (m5 will do 0-60 in 2.9 seconds) but I'm a little bit old school at heart so shifting through the gears and hearing the sound it made just put a massive smile on my face.
Now back finding a way to afford the M2.
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Can I ask a dumb question...?
Back in the day when I was younger, if you went through too deep water, the car would stall. That no longer happens.
Why?
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Well, I'm not sure I have a definitive answer, but cars work on fuel/air/spark. Anything that impedes the fuel, the air, or the spark, will cause an engine to stall. Water in the exhaust will do that, if it backs up to the engine, but with current exhaust systems, that's harder to do. With old school carburetors, water could get into the fuel mixture, but with current fuel injection systems, that's harder to do. With old school air intakes (that big ole circular thing on the top of the engine) water could get in there, but with the current intake systems, that's harder to do. With old school spark systems, water could get up into the distributor cap, or seep into the spark plug wires, but with current ignition packs and closed-circuit, computer-controlled ignition systems, that's harder to do.
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That's an old school answer to the question, and that's harder to do. ;D
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Deep water can still mess with the vents on cars with automatic transmissions, right? I remember reading about that and never thinking of that. The vents suck in the water and the whole transmission can get messed up.
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Deep water can still mess with the vents on cars with automatic transmissions, right? I remember reading about that and never thinking of that. The vents suck in the water and the whole transmission can get messed up.
Automatic trannies are a sealed system. Never heard of vents that are prone to taking in water. Since air intakes have always been well above the water level (they were even higher back when we had carburetors sitting on top of the block), that's not a likely culprit, either. Unless you're driving through a lake Rooskie style. My guess, and this is strictly a guess, is that water was being ingested via the tailpipe during instances of back-pressure. I'm sure we've all been told not to let off the gas or downshift when driving through deep water. I wait until the last minute and floor it all the way through. Perhaps modern cars have something to prevent that back-pressure, or we've all just learned not to let it happen.
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Yea, EB, I understand the same that you should hit the gas to go through the water so you don't end up sucking some in the exhaust. I was also wondering if maybe you've been driving a bit and the engine is super hot if the cold water maybe hitting it could cause issues like a crack or something, or maybe not the engine but some other part to the car's function. I don't know, just guessing. But the road to work for me floods during heavy rains and I've seen stalled cars from it so it still happens to people.
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You also have to remember that back in the day, engine bays were a lot less cluttered. You could often times open the hood and see the ground clear as day on both sides of the engine. If you hit a pool of water, it would splash up all over the place and could easily get into the intake. Nowadays, those compartments are so packed with stuff, you can't see through to the ground at all. Water has a hard time getting to the intake that way.
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Deep water can still mess with the vents on cars with automatic transmissions, right? I remember reading about that and never thinking of that. The vents suck in the water and the whole transmission can get messed up.
Automatic trannies are a sealed system. Never heard of vents that are prone to taking in water. Since air intakes have always been well above the water level (they were even higher back when we had carburetors sitting on top of the block), that's not a likely culprit, either. Unless you're driving through a lake Rooskie style. My guess, and this is strictly a guess, is that water was being ingested via the tailpipe during instances of back-pressure. I'm sure we've all been told not to let off the gas or downshift when driving through deep water. I wait until the last minute and floor it all the way through. Perhaps modern cars have something to prevent that back-pressure, or we've all just learned not to let it happen.
Cars can go through a significant amount of water as long as you doing get any in the intake which is usually mounted at the top of the engine, it's why people toss snorkels on their intake to wade even deeper. If you have a snorkel your next worry is going to be electrical components. I've actually taken my old bmw through some really deep water I just sped up and costed through and the only issue that came from it was a piece of loose styrofoam from the street got wedged in my aux fan which caused my ac to stop working.
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If cars actually are less prone to stalling now than they were back in the day, my guess would be distributors. I've owned plenty of cars with distributors and the caps aren't watertight. Now they're gone, ignition is electronic, and each plug has its own coil pack 3 inches away. Not much chance of water fouling ignition.
And I now see that Stadler beat me to this and I didn't notice.
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I listed I think three or four things, but it's usually either exhaust or distributor cap/wire system.
It's my understanding that the catalytic converters help prevent some of the back-pressure, so that's not as likely, and in my day, even condensation could sometimes play havoc with a distributor cap assembly.
Put it this way: if I happened along the highway and saw TAC stalled out next to a puddle, the first thing I'd check is if there is a distributor cap-type ignition system. Well, FIRST thing I'd check if there is any beer for helping, THEN I'd check the distributor cap assembly.
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I listed I think three or four things, but it's usually either exhaust or distributor cap/wire system.
It's my understanding that the catalytic converters help prevent some of the back-pressure, so that's not as likely, and in my day, even condensation could sometimes play havoc with a distributor cap assembly.
Put it this way: if I happened along the highway and saw TAC stalled out next to a puddle, the first thing I'd check is if there is a distributor cap-type ignition system. Well, FIRST thing I'd check if there is any beer for helping, THEN I'd check the distributor cap assembly.
Many years ago I had the best BMW tech in the US. The guy was a master. I'm driving to the store on Sunday and twice the car got all hurky-jerky starting from a stop. It felt like the clutch wasn't engaging properly, reminiscent of when we all first learned to drive a stick and you'd lurch back and forth or stall the car. On Monday I took it to my guy, he drove it, came back and said my clutch was perfect. I tell him "look, me and this car have bonded over the last five years and I know when something's amiss. There's something going on here." He thinks for 15 seconds or so and says "this happened yesterday, didn't it rain pretty hard on Saturday? Go home and check your sparkplug boots. One of them is loose." Fucker nailed it. :lol
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Haha! I love that. Almost a work of art. :) That'll do it, too (I had a similar problem with my Toyota Taco, and it was a sparkplug wire that had worn down and was essentially shorting out under certain conditions).
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My mechanic told me to put the phone inside my right wheel well with the engine running and he accurately diagnosed it over the phone.
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My mechanic told me to put the phone inside my right wheel well with the engine running and he accurately diagnosed it over the phone.
There are plenty of things you can diagnose via sound, but over a phone seems like it would be pretty tough. I suppose that inside the wheel well allows you to hear the engine itself with all of the accompanying noise from fans, pulleys, pumps, and stuff blocked out. The more I think about it, the more I think you might get a better sound for what's happening that way than actually standing over the engine in person. Brilliant.
My aforementioned BMW tech sniffed out problems with my car on two separate occasions. Like, stuck his head in the car, sniffed three times, came out and said "yeah, so it's the battery soldered onto your dashboard." I think the other one was the control board for the HVAC. Dude really was a badass. One day he decided he was going to go to work at Home Depot and never tell another living soul he knew the slightest thing about cars.
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My mechanic told me to put the phone inside my right wheel well with the engine running and he accurately diagnosed it over the phone.
There are plenty of things you can diagnose via sound, but over a phone seems like it would be pretty tough. I suppose that inside the wheel well allows you to hear the engine itself with all of the accompanying noise from fans, pulleys, pumps, and stuff blocked out. The more I think about it, the more I think you might get a better sound for what's happening that way than actually standing over the engine in person. Brilliant.
My aforementioned BMW tech sniffed out problems with my car on two separate occasions. Like, stuck his head in the car, sniffed three times, came out and said "yeah, so it's the battery soldered onto your dashboard." I think the other one was the control board for the HVAC. Dude really was a badass. One day he decided he was going to go to work at Home Depot and never tell another living soul he knew the slightest thing about cars.
Yeah. He suspected it was the propeller in the water pump and I guess it was located near that well. And just like you said, it blocks a lot of the ambient noise from the rest of the stuff that's moving if you were to just stand over the hood.
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One day he decided he was going to go to work at Home Depot and never tell another living soul he knew the slightest thing about cars.
What? What was that all about? I'm as fascinated by that as the cool diagnoses. Burnt out?
I know my (step)son was at first jazzed to work at BMW, but he had all these bad ass cars around him and he was reprogramming radios and doing oil changes. Over a couple of beers one night, we kind of reached the same conclusion you've talked about a lot, el Barto, and that is "be careful about 'following your passion'". It can get pretty rote pretty quickly.
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One day he decided he was going to go to work at Home Depot and never tell another living soul he knew the slightest thing about cars.
What? What was that all about? I'm as fascinated by that as the cool diagnoses. Burnt out?
I know my (step)son was at first jazzed to work at BMW, but he had all these bad ass cars around him and he was reprogramming radios and doing oil changes. Over a couple of beers one night, we kind of reached the same conclusion you've talked about a lot, el Barto, and that is "be careful about 'following your passion'". It can get pretty rote pretty quickly.
Burnout was certainly part of it. He was my age and presumably decided he didn't want to be repairing cars into his 40s. Also, he was a good ole boy from Ft Worth and had to drive his pickup 35 miles to work every morning. Time he'd much rather spend shooting at Bambi. He was sort of an odd duck. He was the last person you'd expect to be a master BMW tech, but he was a natural. Best diagnostician I've ever seen.
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So
My GFs car (2005 PT Cruiser GT Convertible) took a shit on us a month and a half ago. PCM died. We / our mechanic sent the PCM out to be refurbished, and after having to send it out a 2nd time (First time they just updated the software and didn't actually open it up), they told us there's nothing that can be done. So our next option was to buy one from one of these shady companies that sell refurbished PCMs (You send your old one back to them once you receive the 'new' one and they fix it and send it to someone else). Problem is, the 3-4 big companies that do it are shady as fuck. And it costs anywhere from $500-$1k (Because we have the GT- the PCMs are 10x rarer than the standard. People like to buy the NON-GT detuned Turbo models and toss in the tuned computer). Our mechanic basically told us to sell the car as it's not worth the risk and the money. Our problem is, the car is in excellent condition, less than 95k miles on it (91k I think?), and she loves the car.
Well, I was doing some looking on an PT Cruiser forum and found a guy who people have been ranting and raving about, who programs and flips PCMs for the community for fun (and a little profit). We have one ordered his ebay store, which we'll see in a few weeks once the dude gets back from a vacation he's on.
In the meantime, we've been borrowing my GF's dad's cars (a 2015 CRV, and also his baby- 2005 Mustang GT with 35k miles on it!), as well as using my car (94 Accord that needs to be taken behind the barn and shot... on it's last leg...)
Well we found that my best friend's sister in law was selling her car, an 03 Camry. It has 180k miles on it, but she has babied it since she's owned it. It's pretty immaculate for it's age. No issues besides needing a new power steering hose (slight leak, confirmed it is a hose and not the pump), and it burns a little oil. The only reason she's selling it is she inherited a newer car from a family member, and it makes sense to keep that newer car. She's also willing to take payments from my broke ass!
So now our plan is to get the PCM in the PT Cruiser and get it running again (No major issues with it), and then find a nice cliff to push my Accord off of (or sell it... yea probably sell it and get like $500 for it... seems more logical), and I, for the 1st time in my life, will have a car to drive that isn't 1 step away from breaking down / blowing up. Feels good.
And then we might find someone to buy the PT (I'm willing to bet money we can get more for it than we paid a few years ago and get her something newer.
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If you've got a place to stash it consider mothballing the accord. Having an extra car isn't such a bad thing. You'll have 2 cars with 100k+ miles on them and problems will arise. That accord would really come in handy if your camry needs to be in the shop for a week. Moreover, as you've learned, it's really nice when people have an extra car they can lend you. I drove a friend's surplus accord for damn near a year while looking for my current car. You'll be keeping a nice insurance policy for the cost of liability on a third car, which should be pretty cheap. This is of course assuming you or a family member have space to park it.
And replacing ECUs shouldn't be shady at all. It's something people do all the time, albeit for different reasons. If mine petered out I'd replace it with another that was better programmed for performance. A lot of cars can eek out an extra 35hp just through better programming. Mine would only get 7-12, but it's still an improvement from a part that had already failed.
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I didn't think that replacing it would be much of an issue at all, but from what I've read and what our mechanic (who I trust 100%, never had a reason to think he's being shady) has said, these companies have shit return policies. Get one that wasn't programmed properly? Welp go ahead and exchange it for free, just pay the $30 to ship it back and wait another 2 weeks. Oh and pay a $50-$90 dollar "restocking and reprogramming fee".
And regarding the Honda, if I had a place to store it, I would, but we just downsized from a 4 bedroom 2 bath home down to a 450 square foot studio, and parking at the place is already tight. (Part of that being due to my landlord's boyfriend having 6 cars parked there, 2 of them non-running project cars, 1 being an old baja truck that's not street legal..) Also gotta factor in the fact that it has so many issues that my GF refuses to drive it :lol
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Bart's right though; god willing I will always have a second (or third, counting my wife's car) car in the wings, even if it's a piece of shit. You never know when you need to have a second set of wheels, and where I am, with little effective public transportation, it's been a god-send on more than one occassion so far.
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Bart's right though; god willing I will always have a second (or third, counting my wife's car) car in the wings, even if it's a piece of shit. You never know when you need to have a second set of wheels, and where I am, with little effective public transportation, it's been a god-send on more than one occassion so far.
I've been super fortunate that my parents always had a third vehicle. Even now as an adult living in the next town over, I still take advantage of that from time to time when I'm really in a pinch and the car is in the shop for some reason.
I would love a beater secondary vehicle, but the thought of having to fully insure it is something I can't stomach. I really wish you could register a car as a secondary/utility vehicle under the stipulation that it won't be driven more than 1500 miles a year or something. Even if I had to go to the DMV once per year and prove how much it was driven with the odometer, it'd be worth it to me. I just want to have a 2005 Tacoma on standby.
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Bart's right though; god willing I will always have a second (or third, counting my wife's car) car in the wings, even if it's a piece of shit. You never know when you need to have a second set of wheels, and where I am, with little effective public transportation, it's been a god-send on more than one occassion so far.
I've been super fortunate that my parents always had a third vehicle. Even now as an adult living in the next town over, I still take advantage of that from time to time when I'm really in a pinch and the car is in the shop for some reason.
I would love a beater secondary vehicle, but the thought of having to fully insure it is something I can't stomach. I really wish you could register a car as a secondary/utility vehicle under the stipulation that it won't be driven more than 1500 miles a year or something. Even if I had to go to the DMV once per year and prove how much it was driven with the odometer, it'd be worth it to me. I just want to have a 2005 Tacoma on standby.
Why would you have to carry full coverage? Down here you'd only need liability. If your homeowners and auto are rolled into the same policy then adding a second liability shouldn't be very expensive. Also, I believe plenty of insurance companies do offer discounted rates for cars driven less than X number of miles/yr. If it's something you're really interested in you should check into it.
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Yeah, for me, I have a high deductable and no collision and it's relative peanuts. Not zero, I give you that, but the insurance and reg are not prohibitive.
(Chino, your bigger concern is that with a '05 Taco or something like that, the DMV will value the vehicle way more than it's likely worth, and you'll pay that in taxes.)
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Anybody like corvettes?
The new 2020 has a mid placed engine like a Ferrari and comes stock with almost 500hp.
(https://cdn.motor1.com/images/mgl/y8bg7/s3/2020-chevy-corvette-convertible-pre-production.jpg)
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I never cared for them until the c7 came out which I was a fan of, but I love the c8. I need to convince my future wife that a corvette is a vehicle I need.
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Like convertibles. Don't like corvettes. At least not since the C3.
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I get a confused boner when looking at the new Vette. Part of me really likes it, but then the part of me says "Stop trying to be a Ferrari".
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If it randomly starts trying to catch on fire then we'll for sure know they copied ferrari.
On a related note new c7 vetted are going for 12k under msrp.
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I lived in NYC since I was 15 years old and never had a need for a car. Every time I needed a car I would rent. I am planning to move out of the city next summer and the time to purchase my first car is coming. I am looking at the Subaru Crosstrek. I have tried a couple of different cars and the Crosstrek feels right for me. It's comfortable, good size (not too big, not too small), price is not bad, plus I like how it looks.
Does anyone has any experience (good or bad) with the Crosstrek? I was also considering the Jeep Compass but I never even been inside this car. I driven the Mazda CX-3 and CX-5, Honda CRV and HRV, Toyota Rav4, Nissan Rogue and Ford Escape and did not like any of them, which is why I am leaning toward the Crosstrek (which I really like).
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I haven't driven them myself, but two of my friends have Crosstreks (leases). They're good cars for what they need them for. Though, they are a little too small for my taste (yeah, I know I used to have a Mini). You can easily fit two golf bags in the back without having to do anything to the rear seats. My one complaint that I observed in both cars was that the heated seats were pretty weak.
You mentioned you didn't like the CX-5. Just out of curiosity, how come? A little more than a year ago I bought a 2015 Mazda CX-9 (52K miles for $13,500ish), and I couldn't be happier with it. It rides really nice, it's got pep, the audio system is great, and it performed really well in its first CT winter. The thing only averages 17.9mpg, but I knew that going in.
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My brother had a CX5 until last year, then he (downgrades?) to a CX3. I just drove them for a few hours at a time and the CX3 is way too small for me. I feel like I have no room inside (I don’t know how my brother drives it 5-7 hours a day for his job). The CX5 felt better in terms of size, but I guess his car wasn’t in the greatest condition and the drive didn’t feel smooth. Maybe if I try a newer CX5 I might change my mind.
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I get a confused boner when looking at the new Vette. Part of me really likes it, but then the part of me says "Stop trying to be a Ferrari".
To be fair, I think that it has more to do with the Corvette hitting a wall with performance with a front mounted engine. It was inevitable going to mid-engine if they want to keep upping affordable performance. And there is nothing wrong with looking like a Ferrari. New vette is a damn sexy car.
Me personally, I just decided to keep my 2011 Hyundai Sonata with 102k miles. They have serious engine issues, and a new warranty on the engine went to 120k. Mine just blew up last Monday. Completely seized. Total mess. It was a defect in the manufacturing process of the crank shaft, putting metal shavings in the block, causing bearing failures.
So now I have a 102k car with new this year: all 4 brakes and tires.....new last year: AC system.....and now a complete new engine and starter.
Getting some suspension work and a transmission service, and it will be like a friggin new car. I guess it would be nice to have a new flashy car, but I simply dont care anymore. Had a 260z in my teens, a Jeep Wrangler in my 20's, and a Beemer in my 30's....so I had my fun. Now I just enjoy having no car payment so I can pay for shit like: Private School for Kids; Travel Softball; Home Improvements; and sushi every Friday. I'm old lol.
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I JUST now pulled up images of the mid engine Vette...
I like it. It's to extreme looking or anything. It still looks very much like a Corvette. I'd totally stick my penis in it love to check one out one day. Dude at work is obsessed with Vettes and is going to be getting one as soon as possible. I'm sure he'd take me for a spin in it if I asked.
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Here's the Odyssey of the Nissan Sentra. Wall of text, sorry.
I graduated high school in 2009; right before graduation, my buddy Kyle wrecked his car, a 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE. 41,900 miles on it. He did a number on it, and it was brought to our body shop, where we rebuilt the entire right side... and then it just sat out back for 6 years until I bought it off my old man. So, it's 2015, a 14 year old car, but only 42k miles on it. Dope. No problems with it, other than my brother forgetting to tighten the lug nuts after doing some work on it. That made for a very shaky ride that night :lol
Fast forward to a couple months ago, 4 years later. Car had a crank shaft sensor put in because it refused to start one day, okay, cool. Right around the start of July it started dying randomly. No rhyme or reason. It would usually fire right back up if I cranked it, sometimes I'd have to wait a minute. Scanned it, tells me the O2 sensor is the problem. Interesting... A few weeks later I get ready to leave for work and I notice something under the car. The whole exhaust system rusted out and FELL OFF! Had it towed and the exhaust system fixed. Cool.
Move up to 2 weeks ago, a few hours before I had to hit the road for ProgPower: filled my coolant reservoir, pulled it outside the shop and locked it up, ready to go... oh shit, car's overheating. Call my old man and we take a look at it, can't figure it out, suddenly the AC isn't blowing cold air anymore. Charge the AC, realize the thermostat is stuck, so we replace the thermostat after getting coolant all over the damn place. AC's blowing cold air, car isn't overheating, hooray! Get it back home aaaand the AC is blowing hot air, and that hot ass air from the engine is blowing right on me. Swell.
On the way to St. Louis (from which we'd travel with another friend in his big fancy truck), about an hour outside of the city, the RPM gauge drops to 0. Lights don't come on for another 5-10 seconds. Pull over and fire it back up, a fuse blew and I have no dash lights. Have to drive in the dark with my phone lighting the instrumental panel so I can see my speed and make sure I'm still not overheating.
A week later, get in the car and start driving back from St. Louis and the car dies every 5 minutes on the freeway. Does this about 8-9 times in a row, eventually dying only every 20 minutes, then 30, and then eventually it stopped (and still has not died since then). Pretty sure the crank shaft sensor is messing up after talking to the guys who put it in the first time. Only this time I blew more fuses and didn't have any tail lights or brake lights. So I drove home 2 hours in the middle of the night with no lights, didn't encounter a single cop until I got back into my hometown. Pulled over. Thought I threw in my car's insurance card - somehow I grabbed the card from 2017 (wtf!?) and not 2019. GREAT. Cop lets me off with a light warning and tells me to get it fixed ASAP but gave me a ticket for not being able to pull up exact proof of insurance, so I have to go to the courthouse with my insurance card to get it wiped clean. Got off really easy tbh.
And now I'm pretty sure the backing plates for the front wheels are all jacked up because there is a lot of noise coming from that end now and I'm sure it's not the wheel bearings. :facepalm: :lol
Oh, and did I mention when the cop pulled me over, my registration was expired? Because I stupidly put off getting the sticker until the Monday I left for ProgPower, except I realized 1) the DMV is closed on Mondays, and 2) Monday was a federal holiday anyway.
Of course I'd have no problems with the damn car until right before a big road trip when money is tight. I'm considering selling this fucker but it's only got 75k miles on it which is nuts, and I don't want another car payment for some time. This thing was a steal and it's been awesome but the last couple months have been a nightmare.
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You test the current from the alternator? Also, why would an o2 sensor cause the car to die?
IIRC, yours is a body shop, so I assume y'all would have been all over it if it were the case, but it sounds like the car had been flooded at some point.
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An O2 Sensor shouldn't cause a car of that year to die in and of itself (unless there is a wicked short somewhere, but you'd see other problems; a later model car could be, because the O2 sensor is more likely feeding data to a computer that has more control over the car and is more finely tuned, and that could be wrecking havoc). What's likely happening is that there's something wrong with the fuel supply - pump, blocked injectors, something like that - the spark timing, or a valve problem, and the "bad O2 sensor" is a second symptom of the problem along with the car dying. You therefore answered your own problem: the bad crankshaft sensor could result in poor/mistimed firing in the cylinder, and causing the O2 sensor to trip as well as the stalling.
I've never changed one myself, so you're on your own with that side of the equation.
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An O2 Sensor shouldn't cause a car of that year to die in and of itself (unless there is a wicked short somewhere, but you'd see other problems; a later model car could be, because the O2 sensor is more likely feeding data to a computer that has more control over the car and is more finely tuned, and that could be wrecking havoc). What's likely happening is that there's something wrong with the fuel supply - pump, blocked injectors, something like that - the spark timing, or a valve problem, and the "bad O2 sensor" is a second symptom of the problem along with the car dying. You therefore answered your own problem: the bad crankshaft sensor could result in poor/mistimed firing in the cylinder, and causing the O2 sensor to trip as well as the stalling.
I've never changed one myself, so you're on your own with that side of the equation.
Bingo. It's just a matter of finding the time to work on it - or rather, take it to the mechanic shop we do business with to have them fix it instead (we're a bodyshop, so paint and collision repair primarily, we don't really do the under the hood stuff, with several exceptions). It's just that when you scan the computer with the scanning tools, the only error that pops up is O2 sensor, so yeah, you got it. Well, a couple months ago it was actually the mass airflow sensor, too, but I cleaned that and put it back, and all was right again.
Haven't tested the alternator but that shouldn't be the issue. The crank shaft sensor has been wonky for a while even after they put it in; sometimes it starts rough and doesn't smooth out until I get it driving. It was even worse right before the exhaust fell out, when it was loud as shit. There was a big hole in the tailpipe and the exhaust was just coming straight out underneath the car :lol
I'm just stunned that, of course, all these issues happened right before a big trip. At least I only live a minute or two from work so I can walk if it dies next time. Next year I'm flying. :lol
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Your car sounds like a nightmare
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It's a fucking nightmare on four wheels and when I get rid of I want to circle it with a bat a la Office Space and give it the business :lol
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Haven't tested the alternator but that shouldn't be the issue. The crank shaft sensor has been wonky for a while even after they put it in; sometimes it starts rough and doesn't smooth out until I get it driving. It was even worse right before the exhaust fell out, when it was loud as shit. There was a big hole in the tailpipe and the exhaust was just coming straight out underneath the car :lol
The crankshaft sensor isn't going to cause you to start popping fuses, though. A short or a wonky alternator sure will, though.
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Haven't tested the alternator but that shouldn't be the issue. The crank shaft sensor has been wonky for a while even after they put it in; sometimes it starts rough and doesn't smooth out until I get it driving. It was even worse right before the exhaust fell out, when it was loud as shit. There was a big hole in the tailpipe and the exhaust was just coming straight out underneath the car :lol
The crankshaft sensor isn't going to cause you to start popping fuses, though. A short or a wonky alternator sure will, though.
Ohhh that. Yeah, I think you're onto something there, I'll hopefully have time to check it out tomorrow or Friday. Thanks for the heads up.
EDIT: Tested the alternator this morning just to be sure - it's all good. Old man didn't think there was a problem with it either, just 17 year old fuses that happened to bite the bullet. At least I don't have to worry about an electrical problem!
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So we went and picked up my wife a new car yesterday. A fully loaded Genesis g70 and holy shit it's nice. I mean it has every feature imaginable, I simply can't believe how nice it is coming from Hyundai.
One thing that wasn't nice was dealing with a Hyundai/Genesis dealer. The first payment they hit us with was $792 a month with $2500 down, that's essentially a BMW M2 lease. After spending six hours there we got it down to $419 a month and zero money down.
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Just think how many people say "Mmm... Okay!" to that first offer, and walk out thinking they nailed it.
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Six hours, though. I think I'd rather get my ass whooped than sit in a dealership for 6 hours haggling over a price. Kudos! :lol
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It actually wasn't so bad, I for some reason enjoy the drama of it. We did leave the dealer to get some lunch at the start and said we were going to bmw and mercedes to check their cars out. While we ate the dealer kept texting use and came down to $480 just without doing anything :lol
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$792 a month? Damn, that's more than my mortgage :lol
I couldn't live with myself having a monthly vehicle payment like that. Its good you got it down to a better price though.
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Update on my piece of junk car: it started overheating again a couple days ago... and I found out today that it has a blown head gasket. LOVELY!
I'm going to light this :censored thing on fire.
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That's really shitty, are you gonna change the head gasket yourself?
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That's really shitty, are you gonna change the head gasket yourself?
Didn't even see this - nah. I know nothing about that sort of work, not even interested in trying. I'm actually getting it back today! They had to send the engine off to the machine shop to mill it down and then wash it, pressurize it etc. all that good stuff, and it's back to running. I spent the last week worrying about the engine head possibly being cracked but it isn't, so I don't have to go car shopping quite yet. Hopefully it doesn't have any problems getting through the winter.
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Kudos to Ford for their EV unveil. I think it looks pretty sharp... but I can't for the life of me understand why it's badged as a Mustang..
(https://storage.googleapis.com/afs-prod/media/e99a0845cffe4e2c884ab0222f3fc5a9/3000.jpeg)
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I agree, and it looks sharp but why call this a mustang. Also I don't think this would even be considered an SUV as the driver sits about as high as someone in an Audi All trak.
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Friggin' adopted a 1990 Jeep Wrangler from my stepson. More correctly, he bought it and asked to put it in my garage; he was going to fix it up with help from his brother and sister - who live with me - and give it to their grandpa. Sis got married and moved to North Carolina, Bro is 12 and on the spectrum, so not taking the lead on this, and my stepson is now on active duty in Afghanistan until September 2020 at least.
So I figured I'd get it running and cleaned up for them as a surprise. Did (or am in the process of doing) basic stuff, plugs, battery, distributor, plugs, fluids, filters (air, fuel). Replaced the gaskets and some of the vacuum lines on the throttle body. Flushed the radiator and replaced the upper and lower hoses, as well as the return. Put the starter back in (it was hanging from the wires).
Decided, since I had it drained and had the belts removed, that I would do the thermostat and water pump. I had trouble with the fan (stuck on the bolts), but once I got that off, the pulley and water pump came off like a champ. Two bolts on the thermostat housing, first came off no problem, second one... snapped off the head. F***. So, not having access to a welding kit, I used an EZ out, and... snapped IT off. Double f***. I'm really at a standstill now; I don't know what to do, other than try to drill out the EZ out, either with a diamond tipped drill, or my Dremel tool. But even then, I'm sort of screwed, because that bolt is STUCK.
Any tips? I'm trying not to destroy the theormostat housing, because aftermarket ones seem to have fit problems ('90 parts are not easy to come by, and the three in my local scrap yard either have no motor or are the six cylinder version which isn't the same).
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So, as a Tesla fanboy, I have to express my sincere disappointment in last night's Cybertruck reveal. What a fucking shit show that was.
1) The presentation itself was terrible. Right out of the gate it looked unrehearsed and rushed, and then when the "armor windows" broke on stage and Elon audibly said "Oh my fucking god" into the microphone, I just hung my head. The presentation was only like 25 minutes and didn't touch on any of the truck's true capabilities.
(https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/sites/5/2019/11/Tesla-Cybertruck-electric-pickup-window-glass-broken.jpg?fit=around%7C875:492)
I'm sure the windows still held up better than a traditional car's glass, but still... the optics are terrible.
(https://www.drivingline.com/s3/drivingline.prd/media/2320937/tesla-cybertruck-11.jpg)
(https://cdn.motor1.com/images/mgl/1GMb9/s4/tesla-cybertruck.jpg)
2) The looks. What in the actual fuck am I looking at? I feel like this is what John DeLorean would have designed if GM asked him to design a modern day El Camino. If I needed the ultimate desert bomber vehicle, or something that can drive on Mars (yes this can do that), this would be at the top of the list. But if I'm just a contractor, or a backyard weekend warrior, I have zero interest in buying this thing. It suffers terribly from Honda Ridgeline syndrome with those bed walls that get progressively taller as you get closer to the cab. You can't load and unload stuff from all angles of the bed, which IMO is the first ask of a pickup truck.
This was a huge and embarrassing swing and a miss from Tesla as far as I'm concerned. I was convinced it was a joke for the first 10 minutes or so. I thought when the guy hit it with a sledgehammer, the steel was going to fall away to reveal the true body. Elon opened the presentation stating that the top three selling vehicles in the country are pickup trucks, and I feel like he has not presented us with something that's going to win over even a small percentage of that crowd.
I can see the military and police wanting a variant of this thing though, especially if they modify the bed to be a box truck/van type vehicle instead, and I bet it'd be a pretty good plow truck as well with all of its torque.
I'm honestly in aww how bad this whole unveil was.
The Rivian is winning this fight as far as I'm concerned:
(https://electrek.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2019/11/Tesla-Cybertruck-vs-Rivian-R1T.jpg?quality=82&strip=all)
I am all for change and breaking the mold, but there's a reason why certain things don't change despite being in use for decades. This is more of what I was expecting:
(https://www.teslarati.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/tesla-pickup-truck-accurate-render.jpg)
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Edit: Duplicate post**
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Was Elon looking to make a new meme? This truck is absolutely ridiculous looking and its hilarious :rollin
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That design is complete trash. He's out of his mind.
I can't help but think about that early 90's game Hard Drivin
(https://www.myabandonware.com/media/screenshots/h/hard-drivin-abs/hard-drivin_4.gif)
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lmao Phoenix beat me to it, I was going to say the design came out of a 90's video game.
Looks pretty bad, I am sure they will probably get back on the drawing board and redesign it.
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Plus, anyone who has ever owned a pickup truck that got ANY use at all as a pickup knows that those sharp angles are going to take a beating over time. I think Chino alluded to this, but it needs to be said. You want a truck that's going to continue to look badass as long as you can; that straight line down the side will be rippled with pockmark dents after the second trip into the woods.
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Yup.
I actually don't think I hate the look. The kid in me deep down loves it. I just don't think it's practical as a pickup truck. Off roaders will love this thing. The cab can be pressurized, and Musk apparently was telling people last night that it could drive underwater. That also means, and I totally expect him to do this, that is can be driven on Mars.
I think he should seriously contemplate building a box/van variant of this. UPS, Amazon, and FedEx would be ordering them by the thousands.
I would drive it.
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Am i the only one that thinks that Cybertruck is the coolest f*cking thing ever! :lol
That looks like straight out of Blade Runner, Akira or Cyberpunk 2077! I can't believe that Musk and rest of Tesla had the balls to make something as outrageous as this. :omg: Also i don't think Elon cares at all about the controversy, and just basks in it..
That presentation though was a fail. And i have to believe, that they are going to have to install some wingmirrors or wingmirror cameras into that thing. I can't believe that Europe is going to let a production car into the roads without wingmirrors.
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Am i the only one that thinks that Cybertruck is the coolest f*cking thing ever! :lol
That looks like straight out of Blade Runner, Akira or Cyberpunk 2077! I can't believe that Musk and rest of Tesla had the balls to make something as outrageous as this. :omg: Also i don't think Elon cares at all about the controversy, and just basks in it..
That presentation though was a fail. And i have to believe, that they are going to have to install some wingmirrors or wingmirror cameras into that thing. I can't believe that Europe is going to let a production car into the roads without wingmirrors.
I think it's sick. I just think they totally missed the mark. Musk said this would be a pickup truck capable of stealing market share from the F-150/1500 market, and this vehicle will not do that.
It will have mirrors for sure. It's not uncommon in these kind of press events to not have them on.
Night of the Semi unveil:
(https://s29755.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/15_Tesla_Semi_Electric_1.jpg)
Actual semi:
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/dP0vIH8r-tE/maxresdefault.jpg)
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I can't believe that Musk and rest of Tesla had the balls to make something as outrageous as this. :omg: Also i don't think Elon cares at all about the controversy, and just basks in it..
I'm neutral on Musk; I'm not a fanboy, nor do I hate him. I know all the nonsense around him (and his mental state) and I neither embrace or reject it. But as someone who is a devout capitalist, and an experienced environmentalist (I was Environmental Health and Safety Counsel for a $4B business for a period, and I spent my early career managing environmental remediation projects) I like one key aspect of his idea(s): he's showing that that "powerplant" is not the deciding factor when assessment price/performance curves.
Even if Tesla isn't a raging success, it will open the door to fast followers and eventually the big car companies will be called on to move beyond the roller skates they are producing now under huge government subsidies.
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That Cybertruck is one of the ugliest fucking automobiles I have ever seen, good lord.
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I forgot about the event, and then googled photos later in the evening. I legit thought it was another fake rendering until I started seeing videos pour in on Youtube.
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That Cybertruck is one of the ugliest fucking automobiles I have ever seen, good lord.
My buddy sent me the video of it and I thought it was a joke until I watched it. It is easily the worst looking vehicle I have ever seen.
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(https://imgix.ranker.com/user_node_img/50/988341/original/fiat-multipla-photo-u1?w=650&q=50&fm=pjpg&fit=crop&crop=faces)
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That looks better than the Tesla SUV.
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That looks better than the Tesla SUV.
You're referring to this?
(https://st.motortrend.com/uploads/sites/10/2016/05/2016-Tesla-Model-X-P90D-front-three-quarter-in-motion.jpg?interpolation=lanczos-none&fit=around|392:261)
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(https://external-preview.redd.it/bOcZyiyJR7m3ImEqMtFa0QjsiCYLlD0nUv_TTUNuess.png?width=875&auto=webp&s=e60652fa91a21ef0c8d809787c4e92f2ab790dfb)
Dope :lol
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Ok, now that I can get behind :lol
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That looks better than the Tesla SUV.
You're referring to this?
(https://st.motortrend.com/uploads/sites/10/2016/05/2016-Tesla-Model-X-P90D-front-three-quarter-in-motion.jpg?interpolation=lanczos-none&fit=around|392:261)
Truck sorry lol, I wasn't fully awake
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After seeing a lot of info trickle out over the last few days, I'm 100% on board with Cybertruck.
Musk confirmed black
(https://i0.wp.com/electrek.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2019/11/3-7zUxBZK.jpg?w=996&h=560&quality=82&strip=all&ssl=1)
(https://i.imgur.com/NNhmPJH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nvSKx0G.jpg)
Fan photoshops show potential for other colors (wraps) as well.
(https://i2.wp.com/electrek.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2019/11/6-Tiow5ZY.jpg?w=996&h=560&quality=82&strip=all&ssl=1)
(https://i0.wp.com/electrek.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2019/11/9-X82IbrM.jpg?w=996&h=560&quality=82&strip=all&ssl=1)
It's almost identical in dimensions to the F-150. This photo makes me question rear headroom though.
(https://external-preview.redd.it/c7W-grSmwqJU91zvVSQLF-2_KDBZZIOdUzEEDhNZqR0.jpg?width=1024&auto=webp&s=7f8d10cfd84bf1f4589d7bf50a82a3eae543d7c1)
Even more storage in the already huge bed.
(https://preview.redd.it/8rpeg9pwi9041.jpg?width=875&auto=webp&s=0f594054066dbe1e4b6d8661641e25bbe3fc52d6)
Look how deep that thing is. The lighting rails along the inside are sweet too.
(https://i.imgur.com/RkXEtZBl.jpg)
I think the below is pretty sharp. It's wrap someone on Twitter made.
(https://i.imgur.com/AsqETt4.jpg)
I bet Musk sells a ton of these things.
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If the promises are met and the price stays fairly low as advertised, I can see people buying these up. So many preorders already but I do wonder how many of those are serious and will buy them in the end.
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Have they explained WHY it looks so butt ugly? That bed rules, but I'd rather take a shot in the pills than be caught riding in that ugly mug.
I want to know just how much of a pain in the ass working on those things will be, how much it'll cost, what kind of insurance rates you'd be looking at, and how expensive parts will be...
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People here probably know better than me but I believe that its because of steel they are working with and how there are limitations to how it can be molded.
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Definitely going to need more charging stations in the future
https://www.thedrive.com/news/31274/more-teslas-on-the-road-meant-hours-long-supercharger-lines-over-thanksgiving (https://www.thedrive.com/news/31274/more-teslas-on-the-road-meant-hours-long-supercharger-lines-over-thanksgiving)
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Definitely going to need more charging stations in the future
https://www.thedrive.com/news/31274/more-teslas-on-the-road-meant-hours-long-supercharger-lines-over-thanksgiving (https://www.thedrive.com/news/31274/more-teslas-on-the-road-meant-hours-long-supercharger-lines-over-thanksgiving)
It's going to be interesting to see how they tackle that. It doesn't make sense to build out the station to large scales for 1 or 2 busy days a year. I could totally see Elon creating some kind of mobile chargers (80,000lb batteries hauled by Tesla semis) and bringing them to facilities like this for peak weekends or something.
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I got bored last night and started making a thing.
(https://i.imgur.com/wqquC49.jpg)
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For those curious about the taycan Doug Demuro did a review:
https://youtu.be/0vq6KEOIiMg
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I'm currently driving a 2016 F150 4wd Lariat. This is my 6th F150. Elon Musk is going to work a hell of a lot harder than this to ever convince me to change. That thing looks ridiculous. A moon buggy maybe but a legitimate work truck? I don't think so.
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I was driving my 2011 Hyundai Sonata with 103k miles, and the engine seized. WTF. It happened to be a Hyundai recall, and they replaced the engine (long block). So I had a 103k mile sonata with new engine, starter, all belts (serpentine too), 1 yr old brakes (calipers/rotor/pads), 1.5 yr old A/C compressor, and was in fantastic exterior condition. As we are paying 100k (total) for two girls private high school starting next year, I was perfectly happy with a very sound, and PAID OFF car.
.....until last Thursday night.
I was bringing my 10 yr old to Travel Softball practice, and I get hit by someone running a red light. Both me and my daughter get whiplash and concussions, and burns from the airbag...in a lot of pain for a while but basically we are ok with what looks to be no permanent damage (fingers crossed). But my 2011 Sonata is totaled.
.....so I have to get a new car. FUCK ME I didn't want to shop for a new car. I didn't know what was out there really, and sure didn't want to have a car payment.
But in the end, after a lot of research, and a few test drives, I am very happy with the new car I got.
2019 Jetta
I am not concerned so much with style, as I am much more concerned with value and substance. This car is very conservatively styled, which is fine as it wont likely look silly or outdated in a few years. It is the base model in the dark grey with some flake. It has the black cloth interior with some carbon and leather trim, and has the alloy wheels. What impressed me was the butt load of features on the base model...especially after driving a 2011 with no features. It has large touch screen with apple play and lots of other shit, back up camera, lane change warning/assist, and front end warning/braking. Got the window tinting thrown in, and an extra set of rubber floor mats. 30/40 mpg with an eco setting to do even better. Large trunk with split back seat fold down. 1.4L 4-cylinder with turbo. All LED lights as well. AND a 6 year, 72,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty!!!!!!!!
All in all a very nice car to suit my needs, and all the tech and safety I could ever hope for.
The best part is I negotiated the price of the car down to $15,486! (Sticker was $21,125) I paid $5600 less for this 2019 Jetta with all those features than I did for the 2011 Sonata!
So far the car has exceeded my expectations, from performance, ergonomics, and tech.....and the low price makes it even better....takes the sting out of a car payment when the mileage reimbursement I get from work every month basically pays my car payment.
Anyway, just thought I'd share.
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Sucks about the accident, glad you and your daughter are okay. But that’s a great deal for the car! Next time I’m buying a new car, I’m bring you with me to help negotiate the price because I am the worse negotiator :P
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Sounds like a good deal and glad to hear your accident wasn't anymore serious although that sounds pretty bad. Glad you all are OK and happy with the new car.
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Tesla Model Ys are starting to pop up in the wild.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWuSkpk0xXU&feature=youtu.be
I have to say, I was a little underwhelmed by this model at first, but it's looking sexier every time a closer-to-production model gets spotted. I think the the Y will end up being Tesla's best seller.
I really like it in red. The white above is hot too.
(https://i.imgur.com/qpE51Ms.jpg)
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Chino,
I'm sure you would appreciate the concept car from Mercedes Benz inspired by Avatar
(https://img.etimg.com/thumb/msid-73152227,width-643,imgsize-267183,resizemode-4/mercedes-benz-launched-the-sustainable-concept-car-vision-avtr-at-the-ces-tech-show-in-las-vegas-on-tuesday-.jpg)
This and Honda were probably the coolest, though Honda's looks like a hot tub on wheels.
(https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/624/cpsprodpb/11F78/production/_110429537_car-honda1.jpg)
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Neither the before nor after pics will look very good as it's winter in the Northeast, but I dropped my car off this morning for something I never thought I'd ever consider doing 5 or even 1 year ago.
Getting a chrome delete and windows tinted. Handles already have a sticker on them, but they'll be removed and wrapped properly. All the other trim around the window and mirror will be satin black, and I'll be keeping the carbon fiber caps on my side indicators/camera and won't be touching my emblems, which will be the only chrome left on the car. Windows are 35% on everything but the front.
After pic coming Friday late afternoon if I've got enough light left, or Saturday.
Before:
(https://wpapu.com/images/TM3-01.jpg)
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We currently have two vehicles with close to 85k miles. One is a 2011 and one is a 2014. Both are paid off. I'm considering trading in the 2011 for a 2019 Hybrid with 12K miles. Financially I can afford the payment and want to avoid having to replace both at the the same time.
My long term plan is to replace the 2014 with an electric in 3-5 years and give the proposed 2019 I'm considering to my daughter when she turns 16 in 9 years and upgrade then.
Thoughts on my plan?
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A fine plan depending on the hybrid. Just because something is a hybrid doesn't mean it's good tech or the right choice. My Crosstrek hybrid was a nice enough vehicle but Subaru's hybrid tech was atrocious and not worth having. And depending on you needs a small car might be a smarter choice than something large that is a hybrid.
I'm super picky when it comes to vehicles, but as of a year or two ago I'd say top general choices would be the Accord Hybrid (amaaaaaazing value for the money), Prius, or Rav4.
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I'd go with a Toyota Hybrid solely based on the fact that they have more experience with the tech than just about anyone else in the industry.
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A fine plan depending on the hybrid. Just because something is a hybrid doesn't mean it's good tech or the right choice. My Crosstrek hybrid was a nice enough vehicle but Subaru's hybrid tech was atrocious and not worth having. And depending on you needs a small car might be a smarter choice than something large that is a hybrid.
I'm super picky when it comes to vehicles, but as of a year or two ago I'd say top general choices would be the Accord Hybrid (amaaaaaazing value for the money), Prius, or Rav4.
That is good to know. I was planning to buy a Crosstrek within the next few months, but since I don't have an immediate need for a car I decided to wait another year or two and buy an all electric car. I like the Crosstrek, it's very comfortable and good size (for my taste) but I never tried the Hybrid model.
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Thanks for the feedback! I'm looking at a 2019 Ford Fusion Hybrid (I'm a Ford guy) and they appear to have pretty good reviews.
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Thanks for the feedback! I'm looking at a 2019 Ford Fusion Hybrid (I'm a Ford guy) and they appear to have pretty good reviews.
Ah, my last car was a Fusion, but it was the Energi plug-in Hybrid and not the straight hybrid. I honestly loved that car for what it was, hybrid tech was good enough. Will be a bit pricier than the similarly stocked Accord, and get a few less MPG, but I just liked it more which is why I ended up going with it. I will say that you either want the Titanium Trim or if they still offer it as an upgrade on the base trim the upgraded audio package. The nicer Sony system they put in that car matched with some good noise cancellation is pretty great.
A fine plan depending on the hybrid. Just because something is a hybrid doesn't mean it's good tech or the right choice. My Crosstrek hybrid was a nice enough vehicle but Subaru's hybrid tech was atrocious and not worth having. And depending on you needs a small car might be a smarter choice than something large that is a hybrid.
I'm super picky when it comes to vehicles, but as of a year or two ago I'd say top general choices would be the Accord Hybrid (amaaaaaazing value for the money), Prius, or Rav4.
That is good to know. I was planning to buy a Crosstrek within the next few months, but since I don't have an immediate need for a car I decided to wait another year or two and buy an all electric car. I like the Crosstrek, it's very comfortable and good size (for my taste) but I never tried the Hybrid model.
They have since discontinued that version of the Crosstrek. After a year off they've returned with a plug-in hybrid version of the Crosstrek with tech leased from Toyota I believe. No first hand experience with that version, but the price is quite high and reviews not overly positive. I'd definitely skip and wait for an electric car instead. Model Y should be available at that point as a hatchback alternative, and if you're one of the lucky states with access to the Niro or Kona EV you already have some options.
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And here is the before and after, love the look!
(https://wpapu.com/images/TM3-01.jpg)
(https://wpapu.com/images/TM3-02.jpg)
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Looks way better.
How do you handle the charging? Do you have to run a cord from inside the house?
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I'll have to see if I can dig up some pictures, but this was NOT an easy project.
Power in my house comes from dead center, and I have no basement and connected houses on either side. Then there is a yard. Then there is a sidewalk.
Had to run 16' or so next to duct work to get to a closet, then ran in conduit along the top of the closet and down the external wall, drilled through near the bottom of the wall. Then from there another down turn underground. Had to dig a 18" ditch about 25' and put a pole in right by the sidewalk and brought power up there. Then I have a large outdoor mat on the sidewalk that I pull over the cord when I'm plugged in and have the charging cord over the sidewalk.
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What you're looking at here is me looking in from the hole in the closet to the vent area. Because I only had limited space in the drop ceiling in the small bathroom next to the circuit breaker I had to put up a 7' piece of 1x1, push it most of the way in, tape it to another piece of 1x1, push it all the way in, and then because I was out of 1x1 I then attached a hockey stick to get it the rest of the way in. Then attached the wire and deconstructed it on the way back out.
(https://wpapu.com/images/TM3C-01.jpg)
Closet area.
(https://wpapu.com/images/TM3C-02.jpg)
The post,
(https://wpapu.com/images/TM3C-03.jpg)
Some of the trench.
(https://wpapu.com/images/TM3C-04.jpg)
And the safety mat.
(https://wpapu.com/images/TM3C-05.jpg)
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WOW,
Much respect that you were able to make that happen. I was looking into getting an Electric Motorcycle, but basically have the same problem. And I'm in a 3rd floor condo so I don't think its happening right now :lol
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So after swearing I would never, ever have another bmw after my last m3 that I got rid of last year I just put my deposit down for a m340i being delivered who knows when due to Covid. I'm going to the performance car delivery in South Carolina when it does arrive which should be exciting. After a few weeks of emailing back and forth across a ton of dealers I got a great price and I'm really pumped. This is the first brand luxury car that I'm getting. The car will look like this except a different interior color:
(https://d1i4x6stnty1al.cloudfront.net/uploads/used_stock_image/1_270226_ns.jpg?v=1580320805)
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So after swearing I would never, ever have another bmw after my last m3 that I got rid of last year I just put my deposit down for a m340i being delivered who knows when due to Covid. I'm going to the performance car delivery in South Carolina when it does arrive which should be exciting. After a few weeks of emailing back and forth across a ton of dealers I got a great price and I'm really pumped. This is the first brand luxury car that I'm getting. The car will look like this except a different interior color:
(https://d1i4x6stnty1al.cloudfront.net/uploads/used_stock_image/1_270226_ns.jpg?v=1580320805)
That looks gorgeous.
I'm looking into getting a 3 series (probably a 330i; all 2016's 328i seems to be SULEVs) but I keep getting put off by the SULEV comments/reviews and maintenance repair prices (apparently SULEV models have more expensive and complicated parts than non-SULEV BMW 3 series). So not sure where to go from there. Anyone have an insight on this? Looking in particular 2014-2017 models, 3 series (328i, 330i...maybe 320i but I really don't want a 320).
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So I don't any particular comments on that year range of BMW's but I will say this as a former BMW owner. Get an extended bumper to bumper warranty or get comfortable doing maintenance and repairs yourself. The cars are great and I did love my BMW but eventually as it got older it just became a bitch to constantly repair. I'm leasing this BMW mainly because it's cheaper than financing and I promised myself that I would never own a daily driver outside of warranty again.
Look around on BMW forums, there are many great resources out there. Also Pelican Parts has great repair guides.
I love working on cars but if I have to work on my car out of necessity then it no longer becomes fun.
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So after swearing I would never, ever have another bmw after my last m3 that I got rid of last year I just put my deposit down for a m340i being delivered who knows when due to Covid. I'm going to the performance car delivery in South Carolina when it does arrive which should be exciting. After a few weeks of emailing back and forth across a ton of dealers I got a great price and I'm really pumped. This is the first brand luxury car that I'm getting. The car will look like this except a different interior color:
(https://d1i4x6stnty1al.cloudfront.net/uploads/used_stock_image/1_270226_ns.jpg?v=1580320805)
So is it just a 340I with an M package, or have they changed their nomenclature [again]?
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I'm looking into getting a 3 series (probably a 330i; all 2016's 328i seems to be SULEVs) but I keep getting put off by the SULEV comments/reviews and maintenance repair prices (apparently SULEV models have more expensive and complicated parts than non-SULEV BMW 3 series). So not sure where to go from there. Anyone have an insight on this? Looking in particular 2014-2017 models, 3 series (328i, 330i...maybe 320i but I really don't want a 320).
Echoing what Reap said. And if you buy a BMW, which is a fine thing to do, buy the one that does what you want. Somebody on FB a week or so ago said that BMW made poorly engineered cars. That's an absurd statement. They make wonderfully engineered cars, but they're not engineered for durability. That's a secondary concern. They're engineered for performance and/or luxury. My recommendation for somebody thinking of buying one is to know what you're getting into. Buy one because you want a true driver's car that's luxurious and fun to drive at the expense of being cheap to maintain. If that's what you want you'll love it.
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So after swearing I would never, ever have another bmw after my last m3 that I got rid of last year I just put my deposit down for a m340i being delivered who knows when due to Covid. I'm going to the performance car delivery in South Carolina when it does arrive which should be exciting. After a few weeks of emailing back and forth across a ton of dealers I got a great price and I'm really pumped. This is the first brand luxury car that I'm getting. The car will look like this except a different interior color:
(https://d1i4x6stnty1al.cloudfront.net/uploads/used_stock_image/1_270226_ns.jpg?v=1580320805)
So is it just a 340I with an M package, or have they changed their nomenclature [again]?
there is the 330i, 330e (electric variant) and the m340, the m340 is the turbo charged 6 cylinder. The new m4 and (I'm assuming) m3 is coming but I'm not a big fan of the looks nor will I be able to get as good of a deal on one.
There are some left over m4's left over that I looked at but I like the tech of the new bmw and the performance is near enough the same for me. Other cars I considered where a cayman gts and 911.
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You have any experience driving Porsches? Seems like going from a perfectly balanced F-R to an amazingly ass-heavy R-R would be quite a change. BMWs are highly forgiving. Porsches are anything but. At least that used to be the case. Maybe they're mellowed them out a bit now.
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Thanks Reap and Barto for the feedback. I'm good with maintenance, however, I pretty much don't have much DIY maintenance experience. I have a very good mechanic that services my Jetta 2014 and all of the European brands. One thing I have with the Jetta that absolutely pisses me off is the door locks. I have replaced the door locks 3 times at the tune of 400 bucks each with labor. Aside that, the car itself has been pretty reliable. No engine problems, no pump or brake issues. I'm at 120k miles and I have done all the required maintenance. I realize the Jetta is not on the same league as the beemer, but the Jetta maintenance has been a little bit more expensive compared to a Chrysler Stratus (LOL) I used to own. So if the maintenance costs of a Jetta are similar to a beemer, then I'm going all in. It's just hard to quantify maintenance costs because everybody has a different experience.
I'm also looking at the Audi A3 which has a similar frame as the Jetta (basically it's a luxury Jetta).
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You have any experience driving Porsches? Seems like going from a perfectly balanced F-R to an amazingly ass-heavy R-R would be quite a change. BMWs are highly forgiving. Porsches are anything but. At least that used to be the case. Maybe they're mellowed them out a bit now.
Limited experience with Porsches, my buddy owns a 991.2 Porsche and it's awesome but it's tough to justify the price for one. I have my eye on a few and if for some reason a couple of the 911s drop significantly down in price I might bounce on it. I have until delivery to back out of the bmw.
There is also the practicality of it. Having a 4 door would be nice as I drive my dog around 3 days a week.
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So a year and 23,000 miles into my Tesla Model 3 and I've loved it thus far. Only real maintenance in that time was the two rear tires I just replaced. They passed inspection, but barely. I have an order in for a Model Y, simply because it offers just enough extra space that I can use it for some work-related tasks, but have held off converting on that transition for now. Near the start of the pandemic I got a call that they had a car for me and could have made the switch, but I want to wait another 6-18 months when I have some other financial obligations settled to take the hit in the switch.
It worked out to as Tesla can sort some issues with the early run cars and now they've added the option for a factory tow-hitch to be installed which I want.
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That is a ton of miles put on in 1 year Nick. Holy cow.
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Nick, if Tesla offered a Model3 in a 5dr hatchback variant, something like a Mazda3 5dr, would you want that over the Y?
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That is a ton of miles put on in 1 year Nick. Holy cow.
Well, bare minimum I'd put on at least 14k for work a year if I just commuted to one location and back. Add on another 1-2k for going between locations and the rest in leisure and I expect just as many this year.
Nick, if Tesla offered a Model3 in a 5dr hatchback variant, something like a Mazda3 5dr, would you want that over the Y?
As long as I could fit what I wanted, and I likely could, I generally prefer a longer hatch over a taller CUV. Essentially I'd need the Model 3 to be 4-5" longer and have that hatch and I'd absolutely be on board.
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So a year and 23,000 miles into my Tesla Model 3 and I've loved it thus far. Only real maintenance in that time was the two rear tires I just replaced. They passed inspection, but barely. I have an order in for a Model Y, simply because it offers just enough extra space that I can use it for some work-related tasks, but have held off converting on that transition for now. Near the start of the pandemic I got a call that they had a car for me and could have made the switch, but I want to wait another 6-18 months when I have some other financial obligations settled to take the hit in the switch.
It worked out to as Tesla can sort some issues with the early run cars and now they've added the option for a factory tow-hitch to be installed which I want.
. . .Work related tasks. You're not going to be hauling stiffs in it, are you?
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So a year and 23,000 miles into my Tesla Model 3 and I've loved it thus far. Only real maintenance in that time was the two rear tires I just replaced. They passed inspection, but barely. I have an order in for a Model Y, simply because it offers just enough extra space that I can use it for some work-related tasks, but have held off converting on that transition for now. Near the start of the pandemic I got a call that they had a car for me and could have made the switch, but I want to wait another 6-18 months when I have some other financial obligations settled to take the hit in the switch.
It worked out to as Tesla can sort some issues with the early run cars and now they've added the option for a factory tow-hitch to be installed which I want.
. . .Work related tasks. You're not going to be hauling stiffs in it, are you?
That's exactly what I'm going to do. While it wouldn't hold a casket, it will hold a stretcher or are typical cremation container. So for pickups and transfers between locations the Model Y would be leaps and bounds more comfortable than any of the actual work vehicles. Having to drive one of them any distance is honestly always a down point in my day.
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I want one. I don't care if it doesn't look like a pickup in the traditional sense. I think it looks like a hardcore, badass, offroad machine that can drive through a brick wall if I needed it to.
(https://preview.redd.it/6rbr2y5lq3651.jpg?width=1024&auto=webp&s=15e858617809ae625ab0def0e51844889e8db548)
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I did a Google image search for that picture, Chino, and got nothing! What is that picture from/of?
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I did a Google image search for that picture, Chino, and got nothing! What is that picture from/of?
Someone posted it on r/ElonMusk on Reddit. There's few pictures over at r/Cybertruck as well. One got dropped off at the Petersen Auto Museum in LA yesterday.
Some other pics I've seen posted.
(https://preview.redd.it/1na1s75305651.png?width=1024&auto=webp&s=eba5149f2f224d1c5e21bc2f902077fb86d66dbe)
(https://preview.redd.it/9eilc0izz4651.png?width=513&auto=webp&s=b9d8137a31118573d597239ff0d2f35c2dd9b0fb)
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I've actually been offered to take delivery of my Model Y twice now, but I'm just not in the financial position to pull the trigger on it yet, and that being said the Cybertruck makes cancelling my order altogether a possibility.
I have absolutely no current need for the Cybertruck compared to the Model Y, but the value in that thing by comparison is nuts.
But I look at my Long Range configuration, without autopilot at 55k and then I look at the Cybertruck.
I pay 50k, get a bigger vehicle, with comparable range, that's faster.
Go top shelf and it's a lit bit more difficult. Model Y goes to 63k and Cybertruck to 70k.
Except then of course the truck is still bigger, is INSANELY fast, and has 200 more miles per charge. Not saying it's 7k difference I would want to spend, but it's 7k well spent.
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I'm not down on electric cars generally or Tesla/Musk specifically (my daughter and I were talking about this yesterday, in fact, and it's on our radar) but that specific design is sort of the "Iron Maiden Dance of Death album cover" of electric cars. :)
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Earlier in the thread I posted that I ordered an m340 from BMW. Well long story short but my order was cancelled due to the factory shut down in Germany. No big deal, my order was bumped out to October/November for a 2021. Well every once in a while I'd check to see if a dealer had something close to my build and last week I found one in Nashville. The car was white and was missing the advanced cruise control option but otherwise was exactly how I wanted mine, additionally after some back and forth I got a little over $8k off sticker so I drove up Friday and drove the car home yesterday.
(https://i.imgur.com/sguEwZU.jpg)
The thing is an absolute beast compared to my older BMW that I got rid of. The miles melted away in this thing and I can't get wait to drive it some more today.
As a side note buying from BMW was night and day compared to buying my Hyundai or my wife's Genesis. I get to the dealer in the morning, all the paperwork was done and ready to be signed no games or last minute sales pitches. This is in total opposite to Hyundai/Genesis where they would try and squeeze every penny out of you, so much so that all the excitement of buying a car was lost.
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Maybe because you had a deal worked out already? I dont know, but the car buying process (once you've found the car you want) is so damn long and annoying so I can see why a smooth process would be something really nice.
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When did oil changes become so expensive?
(Yes, I know I can do it myself, and am completely capable, but my living situation among other things prevent it).
I get paying for the convenience of the drive up places, but I feel like they've been hiking prices pretty badly. I could probably get a decent price going to one of the local privately owned mechanics, but the "stay in your car" aspect of some places is absolutely necessary right now due to Covid and my fiance's anxiety.
Gotta put tires on her PT as well, too bad my go to tire place doesn't do oil changes. I'm just not going to let her even think about the fact that I have to leave the safety of the car interior for her tires .
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Can you drop off your car and pick it up when its done? That's what I do for maintenance.
And I've had a lot of it this summer. Two busted side mirrors, one on each car. And air conditioner condenser, and a new muffler. And still a little more to go on my car, but I can out it off since its emissions related only. Ugh.
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Maybe because you had a deal worked out already? I dont know, but the car buying process (once you've found the car you want) is so damn long and annoying so I can see why a smooth process would be something really nice.
I was honestly full prepared to have to renegotiate when I got there, I made sure to bring an extra large coffee:lol but no the actual process was really enjoyable.
Can you drop off your car and pick it up when its done? That's what I do for maintenance.
This if possible, or depending on the car and your place at home you can always knock out the oil change yourself. I used to do that with my past cars.
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When did oil changes become so expensive?
I'll let you know if I ever drive a car with motor oil again. :biggrin:
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When did oil changes become so expensive?
When they switched from plain ole dinosaur oil to high-tech dinosaur oil. When somebody figured out how to make oil last 3 times longer they had to charge 3 times more for it. Yay capitalism!
I was bitching about oil changes over the weekend. I can buy a five quart jug of 0w40 for $23. The 1.8 quarts extra quarts I need to do the job will run $17. Invariably the choices are to get thoroughly ripped off or buy more oil than you need. Theoretically it will all even out in the long run, but it never prevents me from having to buy more oil for every oil change, and occasionally (like last weekend) two who jugs.
In any case, use the extra money the oil change place wants to gouge you and spend it on decent jack and a drain pan. You'll never have to get gouged again because the job is so easy, and if you don't already have one a proper jack is a fantastic investment.
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HAHAHAHA, I thought I was the only one bothered by that (the five gallon... and two quart purchase)!
Gotta say, relative to the rest of the car, an oil change is like making a cup of coffee. There's really no excuse. On my Dodge, I don't even NEED a jack because it's so high, and on the BMW, the oil filter is right on top, right in front. Couldn't be easier.
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I loved that about my old BMW, there was a little access port on the bottom to reach the drain plug so you didn't have to take off the oil pan cover.
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Well, some good news for my Model Y reservation.
Two weeks ago Tesla upped the price of full self driving 1k, but in the last day or two dropped the price of the Model Y 3k.
So I was able to go into my order, edit it with the new prices, and save 2k on it. :D
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That's great news Nick. When do you think you'll take delivery of the model y?
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That's great news Nick. When do you think you'll take delivery of the model y?
I mean, Tesla has now twice reached out to try and get me to complete things on my end to take delivery and I'm just stalling at this point till I've got some home projects done and am on a more solid footing financially for it. Every month that goes by I get a little more equity in my 3, although not a lot since I took at at 72 months financing. Really my end goal is to have the same monthly payment I do now but at 60 months for the Y as opposed to 72 months as with the 3.
That said I've actually for the first time been toying with the idea of not getting full self driving on the Y. If I do that I can basically get the performance at the same price or my current config for 8k less, which really bumps up the timeline. Having FSD on the 3 having all the bells and whistles is nice, but the only thing I'll miss regularly is automatic lane changes. I don't really use navigate on autopilot, I don't use autopark all that often, and even as the city systems are getting better, I realize that with both that and highway it's not truly too valuable until I can officially say fuck it, let the car drive, and do whatever I like while it does.
I have no doubt that the FSD will be a beast in 2-3 years, but I don't foresee it being able to just let me let it drive due to all the regulatory hurdles. So with that said I think I'll save the money.
If I do go with Long Range w/o FSD at 52k I think I can realistically make it happen around October.
If I end up switching to performance (love the speed and the look of those tires), likely spring. I just hate the loss of range that comes with the 21" tires on the performance.
Sorry, long answer to an easy question, but I'm constantly kicking these options around in my head.
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That all makes since. When I ordered my car I ticked every single option box and when it was bumped it was near impossible to one that had all those features, I did something and I finally thought "am I going to really use all these features after the novelty wears off?"
Have you driven a model y with 21 inch tires? How is the ride? Typically the larger the tire, the less sidewall, the rougher the ride.
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How big of a mistake would it be to buy a Jeep Renegade (new or more likely used)?
The other half and I plan on getting rid of her PT Cruiser HOPEFULLY before the end of the year and getting another vehicle (Depending on our finances). She wants either a CRV, Soul, or Renegade. As much as I LOVE the look of the little Renegade, I don't know if I can drive the reliability issues of newer Chryslers into her head.
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I think it largely depends on how long you want to keep the Jeep. FCA is not know for reliability for things that aren't a Cherokee or wrangler. That said I think as with most things if you stay on top of problems as they come up you should be good.
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I think it largely depends on how long you want to keep the Jeep. FCA is not know for reliability for things that aren't a Cherokee or wrangler. That said I think as with most things if you stay on top of problems as they come up you should be good.
This will be the first newer vehicle either of us have ever bought. She wants something that will last a long time. It's frustrating. I've been the one test driving, researching, etc every used car we've gotten since we've been together. I wish she would do some research herself instead of just asking me and seeming annoyed when I say"you probably shouldn't even look at X or Y" when she brings them up. It's ultimately going to be her car, so it's her decision.
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I have to hand it to Ford. I think they did a pretty good job with the new Bronco. I'd be iffy on getting the 10 speed automatic though. I anecdotally think Ford sucks at everything when it comes to building a drivetrain, but it is cool that it's coming with a seven speed manual variant. I wonder if Jeep is sweating at all.
(https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/vdm_ford/live/en_us/ford/nameplate/bronco/2021/collections/3-2/FRDNSUVK0158_Bronco_00561_Panorama1_01_RGB_100dpiFADE_Desktop.jpg/_jcr_content/renditions/cq5dam.web.2160.2160.jpeg)
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I agree I think that it's a cool suv. I don't think the 10 speed is a big issue IMO. They've been using it in the raptor and mustang for a while now and people rave about it where as the MT82 manual transmission has had a few issues and recalls.
I don't think Jeep is too nervous, from the few Jeep people I know they are loyalists to the end.
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That all makes since. When I ordered my car I ticked every single option box and when it was bumped it was near impossible to one that had all those features, I did something and I finally thought "am I going to really use all these features after the novelty wears off?"
Have you driven a model y with 21 inch tires? How is the ride? Typically the larger the tire, the less sidewall, the rougher the ride.
I have not driven any Model Y, but I am aware of the complaints about the larger tires. Only positives to the 8k upgrade to performance are speed and looks, and frankly I will have a hard time paying for that given that the regular Y is plenty fast, and there are those negatives you mentioned as well as less range. I would LOVE LOVE LOVE if they did like they had with the 3 for awhile and had a "Stealth" performance, same as Long Range Y, but 2k more for the additional speed. It's absolutely perfect for me. I'd make it work and complete my purchase tomorrow, no question.
I agree I think that it's a cool suv. I don't think the 10 speed is a big issue IMO. They've been using it in the raptor and mustang for a while now and people rave about it where as the MT82 manual transmission has had a few issues and recalls.
I don't think Jeep is too nervous, from the few Jeep people I know they are loyalists to the end.
The last people who should be making a 10-speed transmission if Ford. First off, just put in a CVT and be done with it, it's a better system anyway. Secondly, if it's even remotely as awful as the shit show that graced the Fiesta and Focus for awhile who the hell would want to feel that thing jump 10 times regularly.
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My ex had a 2013 (I think) Focus. What a piece that thing was. Maybe she secretly beat the piss out of it, idk, but at 50K miles it felt like it had 150K on the odometer. It drove like a dog and took like 3 seconds to shift. I swear there were times when passing on the highway it'd go to downshift and then just shift back into the gear it was already in.
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The Focus was really hit or miss IMO. The ST and RS trim's were pretty nice for what they were just overpriced. My buddy has a ST and it's a lot of fun to drive but the interior is ridiculously cheap. There is a decent following for the RS trim even with paper-mache head gaskets.
I'll say this for Ford, their dealerships are some of the most delusional people around. When I was considering a mustang a few years ago the markups they had on their cars was laughable. There was a GT350 that sat in the showroom for close to 3 years at 100k. When I was bored I'd go cruise around the dealers and whenever I'd get to ford there was that gt350 sitting in the corner.
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I'm in love with this thing.
(https://preview.redd.it/j20b4mbaf8e51.jpg?width=576&auto=webp&s=59a8bab0df4e3ba21a07c0aed3ea5b0f15677fc6)
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WANT
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Anyone watch the new Hummer reveal yesterday?
https://www.gmc.com/electric-truck/hummer-ev
Engineering explained did a deeper dive here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkM0L4_W_pM
I think it's a cool looking truck, $112k is a lot of money but Hummers were never cheap and I think this can be viewed as a halo truck for them.
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Anyone watch the new Hummer reveal yesterday?
https://www.gmc.com/electric-truck/hummer-ev
Engineering explained did a deeper dive here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkM0L4_W_pM
I think it's a cool looking truck, $112k is a lot of money but Hummers were never cheap and I think this can be viewed as a halo truck for them.
Is this the one that's being built as a limited run?
I thing the Hummer will see a resurgence once EVs are the norm. It's the perfect platform for brute force.
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Well, the Model Y timeline has been accelerated a little bit...
Back on Oct. 22 we left on a trip to Massachusetts, the first really nice road trip for my Model 3. Didn't even get halfway through NJ (leaving from Eastern PA) when a guy lost control (he said he sneezed), went over the left shoulder into the left rail, and then bounced back across that shoulder and two more lanes to plow into us in the right lane, driving us into the right rail.
Got the news on Oct. 28 that the car was totaled. Finished off my Model Y order that same night, and today I received my VIN, and so should hopefully soon be hearing from Tesla about scheduling delivery.
Managed to keep my wits about me on the two major financial decisions with the car.
-Went with Long Range AWD as opposed to performance. (8k saved)
-Stayed with basic autopilot and didn't get full-self driving. (8k saved)
That being said, I will likely cut into that 16k I didn't spend with a couple of things.
-Got midnight silver metallic paint for 1k
-Got factory tow hitch for 1k
-Will almost certainly get the acceleration boost for 2k (cuts 0-60 from 4.8 to 4.2 seconds)
-Assuming it is offered to me at some point, will likely get enhanced auto pilot for 5k
Now I'm just anxiously awaiting the call to schedule delivery, but am VERY much looking forward to getting back into a car I love.
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That's awesome news Nick. Make sure to post pics once you get it.
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That's awesome news Nick. Make sure to post pics once you get it.
Will certainly do. Officially my delivery date is Dec. 2 now.
Talked to the service center and we're hopeful I'll actually get in on Nov. 28 or 30.
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bump to post this:
https://driving.bmwusa.com/?token=eExclusive&bid=210276498&nspid=5d7b9adcbe1c629ec722529dd12e5129&mi_u=d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e&mi_ecmp=101021040511011
If anyone is interesting in driving some cars around with 0 hassle of buying one sign up. I'm doing the Raleigh event with my wife. BMW does event's like these throughout the year and doing the M car one a couple years ago is what got me to buy my current car.
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I just sent that link to my stepson (his current car is a '93 M3 that is SWEEEET). We can go to Mass or NY, fairly easily.
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It's a lot of fun. After getting rid of my e46 m3 I swore I'd never get another BMW again but after driving one at one of these events I picked up a new m340 last July :lol
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My mechanics often get recruited as driving coaches for these things, so I should probably sign up for one some day. However, it's kind of likely I'm traveling when they have the Dallas event.
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0-60mph in 1.1 seconds :hat :eek
It’s now official. The next-generation Tesla Roadster, when fitted with its SpaceX Package, would be capable of sprinting from 0-60 mph in 1.1 seconds. This insane piece of information was confirmed recently by CEO Elon Musk on Twitter.
Visitors of the next-generation Tesla Roadster exhibit at the Petersen Auto Museum observed something interesting in the vehicle’s information panel. According to the museum’s plaque for the all-electric supercar, the next-generation Roadster, when fitted with cold gas thrusters, would be able to accelerate from a standstill to 60 mph in just 1.1 seconds.
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/E123P1tVoAIYqnM?format=jpg&name=large)
https://www.teslarati.com/tesla-roadster-1-sec-0-60-mph-confirmed-elon-musk/
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Time to invest in Michelin. Thousand dollar proprietary tires are going to selling like crack.
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I saw that this morning and I'll be more impressed if Tesla can get their quality control in order or workout their self-driving option that was charged but has yet to be implemented.
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Was Top Gear right about the Toyota Hilux being indestructible, well this redneck is putting it to the test. :lol He's seems kinda douchy but some of the tests are hilarious and interesting.
Toyota Hilux Durability Test #1 (https://youtu.be/Yl1FNX08HFc)
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Was Top Gear right about the Toyota Hilux being indestructible, well this redneck is putting it to the test. :lol He's seems kinda douchy but some of the tests are hilarious and interesting.
Toyota Hilux Durability Test #1 (https://youtu.be/Yl1FNX08HFc)
I'm definitely watching that later! Thanks for posting
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This thing is an engineering work of art. This is the new powerplant of that Tesla Model S Plaid edition. Single speed with 1020 horsepower, and it will get you to 60 in two seconds. I'm wondering what the future of drag racing is going to look like. Would love to see four of these mounted in a top fuel machine to see what they could do.
(https://preview.redd.it/jkvn3vjovi671.png?width=1024&auto=webp&s=0cd730374274a47226fc551ab242734e13b6968f)
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Wouldn't be surprised if it becomes it's own category like Formula E since I don't think electric and gas can ever co-exist.
I'm wondering if the gforces and the human body becomes the limiting factor in e-sport eventually?
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Koenigsegg Jesko in action (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFy9bRils0E&ab_channel=Biltokig). Sry for the lack of english text but I thought you might enjoy just seeing it or rather hearing it, the sound is just amazing. It's also cool as a swede to have a car like this spawn from my little country. Btw that's actor Mikael Persbrandt sitting in the passenger seat. Driving starts at 7:40.
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Awesome video, I love all things Koenigsegg since first seeing the CCX on Top Gear. One of the highlights was seeing one at the miami car show years ago. There is some brilliant engineering happening in the Koenigsegg vehicles.
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Yea totally agree, if i'm not mistaken everything in the car from screws to engine is made by themselfs and not bought.
That way the have the option to tweak and improve things however they want.
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I pulled the trigger on a used 2017 BMW 330i with the M package. Had 32k miles on it. We'll see how it goes with repairs and trouble but so far the car drives like heaven. I'm enjoying it a lot. Used to drive a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T but it started burning oil like crazy. Had 132k miles on it. I was pouring 2qts of oil every 3k miles, which is absolutely nuts. I figured by the cost it would take to fix that, plus the next major service (transmission fluid), throttle valve replacement, and the current used value (which was a bit higher than last year), I would be better off getting something newer (hence the upgrade lol).
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I pulled the trigger on a used 2017 BMW 330i with the M package. Had 32k miles on it. We'll see how it goes with repairs and trouble but so far the car drives like heaven. I'm enjoying it a lot. Used to drive a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T but it started burning oil like crazy. Had 132k miles on it. I was pouring 2qts of oil every 3k miles, which is absolutely nuts. I figured by the cost it would take to fix that, plus the next major service (transmission fluid), throttle valve replacement, and the current used value (which was a bit higher than last year), I would be better off getting something newer (hence the upgrade lol).
The BMW won't start burning oil for another 300k. The motor is bulletproof so long as you never let it overheat¹. The rest of the car will fail long before then. Honestly, my BMWs have been the cheapest cars to operate I've owned, and the youngest I've bought was 70k. I drove my first two up to 230k. My current one has 140k and is doing fine. That said, I think I'm probably done with them. At the very least the e90 will be the end of the road for me. From my perspective they seem to have lost their way of late.
Enjoy your car. 3-series handling is one of the great pleasures in life, if you ask me.
¹even if you do overheat it you'll just blow the head gasket, but that's one of the few repairs that will typically exceed the value of the rest of the car. Probably the number one killer of BMWs.
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I pulled the trigger on a used 2017 BMW 330i with the M package. Had 32k miles on it. We'll see how it goes with repairs and trouble but so far the car drives like heaven. I'm enjoying it a lot. Used to drive a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T but it started burning oil like crazy. Had 132k miles on it. I was pouring 2qts of oil every 3k miles, which is absolutely nuts. I figured by the cost it would take to fix that, plus the next major service (transmission fluid), throttle valve replacement, and the current used value (which was a bit higher than last year), I would be better off getting something newer (hence the upgrade lol).
As a fellow BMW owner congrats! I love the 330i especially that generation!
I pulled the trigger on a used 2017 BMW 330i with the M package. Had 32k miles on it. We'll see how it goes with repairs and trouble but so far the car drives like heaven. I'm enjoying it a lot. Used to drive a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T but it started burning oil like crazy. Had 132k miles on it. I was pouring 2qts of oil every 3k miles, which is absolutely nuts. I figured by the cost it would take to fix that, plus the next major service (transmission fluid), throttle valve replacement, and the current used value (which was a bit higher than last year), I would be better off getting something newer (hence the upgrade lol).
The BMW won't start burning oil for another 300k. The motor is bulletproof so long as you never let it overheat¹. The rest of the car will fail long before then. Honestly, my BMWs have been the cheapest cars to operate I've owned, and the youngest I've bought was 70k. I drove my first two up to 230k. My current one has 140k and is doing fine. That said, I think I'm probably done with them. At the very least the e90 will be the end of the road for me. From my perspective they seem to have lost their way of late.
Enjoy your car. 3-series handling is one of the great pleasures in life, if you ask me.
¹even if you do overheat it you'll just blow the head gasket, but that's one of the few repairs that will typically exceed the value of the rest of the car. Probably the number one killer of BMWs.
Barto is right, the engine is bullet-proof but the electrical gremlins I had were a nightmare with my old BMW.
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I pulled the trigger on a used 2017 BMW 330i with the M package. Had 32k miles on it. We'll see how it goes with repairs and trouble but so far the car drives like heaven. I'm enjoying it a lot. Used to drive a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T but it started burning oil like crazy. Had 132k miles on it. I was pouring 2qts of oil every 3k miles, which is absolutely nuts. I figured by the cost it would take to fix that, plus the next major service (transmission fluid), throttle valve replacement, and the current used value (which was a bit higher than last year), I would be better off getting something newer (hence the upgrade lol).
As a fellow BMW owner congrats! I love the 330i especially that generation!
I pulled the trigger on a used 2017 BMW 330i with the M package. Had 32k miles on it. We'll see how it goes with repairs and trouble but so far the car drives like heaven. I'm enjoying it a lot. Used to drive a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T but it started burning oil like crazy. Had 132k miles on it. I was pouring 2qts of oil every 3k miles, which is absolutely nuts. I figured by the cost it would take to fix that, plus the next major service (transmission fluid), throttle valve replacement, and the current used value (which was a bit higher than last year), I would be better off getting something newer (hence the upgrade lol).
The BMW won't start burning oil for another 300k. The motor is bulletproof so long as you never let it overheat¹. The rest of the car will fail long before then. Honestly, my BMWs have been the cheapest cars to operate I've owned, and the youngest I've bought was 70k. I drove my first two up to 230k. My current one has 140k and is doing fine. That said, I think I'm probably done with them. At the very least the e90 will be the end of the road for me. From my perspective they seem to have lost their way of late.
Enjoy your car. 3-series handling is one of the great pleasures in life, if you ask me.
¹even if you do overheat it you'll just blow the head gasket, but that's one of the few repairs that will typically exceed the value of the rest of the car. Probably the number one killer of BMWs.
Barto is right, the engine is bullet-proof but the electrical gremlins I had were a nightmare with my old BMW.
Trying to think of any electrical gremlins I've had, and aside from the taillights (which were a recall item), I don't recall any. Voltage regulator failed and took out a couple of batteries, but that's really an all cars issue. If you go back as far as I do, you probably recall the dashboard battery that would leak acid over the instruments in the e30. (I'm sure Stadler does) Really, though, electrical problems haven't bugged me.
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HAHA. I do remember; I didn't have that specific problem, but I remember it.
Electrical gremlins are a problem for many cars, though. My Volvo S60 that I drove for a decade... the one problem was electrical bullcrap. I went through taillight bulbs like Tootsie Rolls at a Memorial Day Parade. Or picks at a Yngwie concert.
I have an X3 that has zero electrical (though I had to replace the grounding straps) issues, and a 2013 535 that is fine except when you plug a phone into the center console USB port (but that's a known issue). Both those cars drive like angels. The 5 is probably the best driving car I've ever owned, frankly. It's right at the cusp of where it gets un-fun, though, because it's just too complicated for it's own good. Even that car is so far beyond gas/air/spark --> gears --> rubber --> road that it's not funny - not FUN - anymore. I don't know if that's what El Barto means by lost way, but that's what it means to me. (Though I got an X1 as a loaner about two years ago and it was a piece of crap).
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HAHA. I do remember; I didn't have that specific problem, but I remember it.
Electrical gremlins are a problem for many cars, though. My Volvo S60 that I drove for a decade... the one problem was electrical bullcrap. I went through taillight bulbs like Tootsie Rolls at a Memorial Day Parade. Or picks at a Yngwie concert.
I have an X3 that has zero electrical (though I had to replace the grounding straps) issues, and a 2013 535 that is fine except when you plug a phone into the center console USB port (but that's a known issue). Both those cars drive like angels. The 5 is probably the best driving car I've ever owned, frankly. It's right at the cusp of where it gets un-fun, though, because it's just too complicated for it's own good. Even that car is so far beyond gas/air/spark --> gears --> rubber --> road that it's not funny - not FUN - anymore. I don't know if that's what El Barto means by lost way, but that's what it means to me. (Though I got an X1 as a loaner about two years ago and it was a piece of crap).
I've gotten a couple of entry-level 3's as loaners and they were total garbage. I actually had the wind blow one of the doors out of my hand, and that really offended me. :lol
And yeah, that's basically where I'm coming from. BMW used to make cars for drivers. Now they make cars for college kids. I've owned an e30, e36, and an e46. I've driven a loaner e90 M3, and a few various F series (seriously, F? Now they're Fords?). The trend towards removing the driver from the car has been stark. That e90 M3 is the only reason I'm not drawing the line at the E46 (it really was a hoot, though not an ideal daily driver).
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I pulled the trigger on a used 2017 BMW 330i with the M package. Had 32k miles on it. We'll see how it goes with repairs and trouble but so far the car drives like heaven. I'm enjoying it a lot. Used to drive a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T but it started burning oil like crazy. Had 132k miles on it. I was pouring 2qts of oil every 3k miles, which is absolutely nuts. I figured by the cost it would take to fix that, plus the next major service (transmission fluid), throttle valve replacement, and the current used value (which was a bit higher than last year), I would be better off getting something newer (hence the upgrade lol).
As a fellow BMW owner congrats! I love the 330i especially that generation!
I pulled the trigger on a used 2017 BMW 330i with the M package. Had 32k miles on it. We'll see how it goes with repairs and trouble but so far the car drives like heaven. I'm enjoying it a lot. Used to drive a 2014 VW Jetta 1.8T but it started burning oil like crazy. Had 132k miles on it. I was pouring 2qts of oil every 3k miles, which is absolutely nuts. I figured by the cost it would take to fix that, plus the next major service (transmission fluid), throttle valve replacement, and the current used value (which was a bit higher than last year), I would be better off getting something newer (hence the upgrade lol).
The BMW won't start burning oil for another 300k. The motor is bulletproof so long as you never let it overheat¹. The rest of the car will fail long before then. Honestly, my BMWs have been the cheapest cars to operate I've owned, and the youngest I've bought was 70k. I drove my first two up to 230k. My current one has 140k and is doing fine. That said, I think I'm probably done with them. At the very least the e90 will be the end of the road for me. From my perspective they seem to have lost their way of late.
Enjoy your car. 3-series handling is one of the great pleasures in life, if you ask me.
¹even if you do overheat it you'll just blow the head gasket, but that's one of the few repairs that will typically exceed the value of the rest of the car. Probably the number one killer of BMWs.
Barto is right, the engine is bullet-proof but the electrical gremlins I had were a nightmare with my old BMW.
Trying to think of any electrical gremlins I've had, and aside from the taillights (which were a recall item), I don't recall any. Voltage regulator failed and took out a couple of batteries, but that's really an all cars issue. If you go back as far as I do, you probably recall the dashboard battery that would leak acid over the instruments in the e30. (I'm sure Stadler does) Really, though, electrical problems haven't bugged me.
I had a bunch of electrical issues, one big one was that the wiring in the trunk connecting to the cd player had a faulty connection which caused all may gauges on my dash to flip out, like it they all pegged at the max rpm/speed/gas/temp. My biggest issue though was a constant oil filter gasket leaks, I replaced that gasket 3 times in my entire ownership of the car.
HAHA. I do remember; I didn't have that specific problem, but I remember it.
Electrical gremlins are a problem for many cars, though. My Volvo S60 that I drove for a decade... the one problem was electrical bullcrap. I went through taillight bulbs like Tootsie Rolls at a Memorial Day Parade. Or picks at a Yngwie concert.
I have an X3 that has zero electrical (though I had to replace the grounding straps) issues, and a 2013 535 that is fine except when you plug a phone into the center console USB port (but that's a known issue). Both those cars drive like angels. The 5 is probably the best driving car I've ever owned, frankly. It's right at the cusp of where it gets un-fun, though, because it's just too complicated for it's own good. Even that car is so far beyond gas/air/spark --> gears --> rubber --> road that it's not funny - not FUN - anymore. I don't know if that's what El Barto means by lost way, but that's what it means to me. (Though I got an X1 as a loaner about two years ago and it was a piece of crap).
I've gotten a couple of entry-level 3's as loaners and they were total garbage. I actually had the wind blow one of the doors out of my hand, and that really offended me. :lol
And yeah, that's basically where I'm coming from. BMW used to make cars for drivers. Now they make cars for college kids. I've owned an e30, e36, and an e46. I've driven a loaner e90 M3, and a few various F series (seriously, F? Now they're Fords?). The trend towards removing the driver from the car has been stark. That e90 M3 is the only reason I'm not drawing the line at the E46 (it really was a hoot, though not an ideal daily driver).
I agree with you but I think the G series is a return to for. I'm biased because I have a new m340 but they really are fantastic cars and having driven the new M3 a few weeks back I'm convinced that is going to be my next car (unless I get a big promotion where I can finally hop into a 911).
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I had a bunch of electrical issues, one big one was that the wiring in the trunk connecting to the cd player had a faulty connection which caused all may gauges on my dash to flip out, like it they all pegged at the max rpm/speed/gas/temp. My biggest issue though was a constant oil filter gasket leaks, I replaced that gasket 3 times in my entire ownership of the car.
I had to replace one in my e36. It was annoying but not nightmarish. I'm guessing it's probably a lot harder to do nowadays. My saving grace is that I'd replaced the alternator a couple of weeks earlier, so I had that thing off in five minutes to tackle the gasket.
I agree with you but I think the G series is a return to for. I'm biased because I have a new m340 but they really are fantastic cars and having driven the new M3 a few weeks back I'm convinced that is going to be my next car (unless I get a big promotion where I can finally hop into a 911).
After 15+ years of driving a BMW I'm pretty sure I'd total a 911 inside of a month. BMWs are easy to drive. They reward skill and forgive all but the most egregious mistakes. Rear engine Porsches demand skill and punish failure.
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No argument from me there, the traction control in the new BMW's is truly something else, they let you get away with enough to let you believe that you are a great driver when it's the car doing the heavy lifting.
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I'm certainly biased as I owned one myself, but I think pretty much everybody can agree that when it comes to really stylish cars the first Z cars are high up in the pantheon. Truly iconic design. Always damn good looking cars. I'm not sure what exactly Nissan was going for with the newest iteration, but this damn sure isn't stylish. It's about as generic as it gets. You see a 240 (60 or 80) and you know exactly what it is. You see this and you just think "typical Japanese sports car." This certainly doesn't make me think Z car. Honestly, this whole modern-retro thing has been played out.
(https://hips.hearstapps.com/hmg-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/images/2021-nissan-400z-rendering-1587685039.jpg?crop=0.889xw:0.877xh;0.0289xw,0.0930xh&resize=980:*)
(https://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Z_7-e1477682359802.jpg?fit=940%2C706)
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That bottom pic gives me a bo... is very exciting, let's leave it at that. Mine was a '78 280Z, 2+2 (it had the backseat; which anyone over the age of 12 couldn't get in or out of) but it was that exact same color, with a black interior. I LOVED that car. I've been looking, but they are almost exclusively a) wildly overpriced and b) butchered with small block Detroit engines, a wholly unnecessary modification.
EDIT: Not at all interested in the new one. They basically lost me for good when they made the 280ZX into a quasi-sedan in a coupe body. :tdwn
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I've been reading some of the release info on the new Z over the past couple of days and I'm intrigued. Nissan has really been floundering the past few years so I'd really like to see them hit this car out of the park
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It'll probably be a fine car. I appreciate that they're offering it in a stick. That might be the best callback to the original they can add. It just seems gimmicky to me to simply add a couple of artificial throwback references and call it a Z car.
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Yesterday I got to accomplish one of my dreams since I was little and that was driving a Porsche 911 on a track. For my birthday my wife got me the Porsche track experience at the NA Porsche Headquarters in Atlanta.
For anyone who is a fan of cars, particularly Porsches I recommend you stop by and visit. The facility is amazing (it looks familiar too because it's the building used as the Avengers headquarters in the movies). They have a museum where they swap cars out frequently.
The car I drove was a 2022 911 Turbo S with a sticker price just shy of $300k and it was an absolute monster. We did everything from drift lessons, multiple launches, and a bunch of laps on their track at the facility. The car handled like it was on rails and was a blast to drive. Towards the end we did about 10 launches back to back followed by some high speed laps and by that point I got really motion sick, so much so that afterward I promptly went to the bathroom to puke, it was magical :lol. Again if you like cars and are in Atlanta stop by, you won't be disappointed. Here are a few photos, the yellow car is the one I drove.
One of the two main buildings:
(https://i.imgur.com/S7AsfnU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mY5zitr.jpg)
991.2 GT2RS, beautiful optioned with custom paint color:
(https://i.imgur.com/NTrEreZ.jpg)
Carrera GT:
(https://i.imgur.com/bECUHaI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BSaelBJ.jpg)
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Sounds like an awesome experience :metal
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That sounds REALLY cool. :)
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I've literally spent the past 2 days pouring over my budget and various excel spreadsheets to make 911 ownership possible :lol. It's a bummer because of how much prices have gone up since the start of a pandemic. A 2 year old 911 Carrera S was going for around $85k pre pandemic, the same car, now almost 4 years old goes for north of $100k.
I have a little less than 2 years left on my lease so I have time to stash away some pennies.
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Any suggestions on spare tire options for a BMW 2017 330i?
The air compressor was not included when I bought the car but I realized it doesn't have a spare tire either. I've seen people buy a complete tire with rim and put it in the trunk (obviously it takes most of the space). I've seen other people just buy a much better air compressor than what's included plus a a slime and tire repair kit (patches) and a good set of wrenches and a decent jack. I'm thinking about going for the latter option.
My worry is that I do drive 3-4 times a year to El Paso, Tx from Austin (10 hr drive) and don't want to be left stranded lol. Surprisingly I've never been left stranded on I-10 or I-20 when I lived in Dallas. But I know my luck will eventually run out.
What have you guys done for spares?
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I have a 2020 bmw m340i and I don't have a spare sadly, run flats which I'm not a fan of. Check if you have run flats, if you do you can go 50 miles on them. If not then I'd pick up a donut or a can of fix a flat. Fix a flat has bailed me out a few times on my motorcycle.
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I have a 2020 bmw m340i and I don't have a spare sadly, run flats which I'm not a fan of. Check if you have run flats, if you do you can go 50 miles on them. If not then I'd pick up a donut or a can of fix a flat. Fix a flat has bailed me out a few times on my motorcycle.
That's my car. Run flats. Fuckers are hard to keep inflated to the proper temperature, and are expensive, too. And my car, a 5-Series with the xDrive, is VERY sensitive to tire inflation pressure; I generally check them every couple weeks, no more than monthly, and while that may be best practice it's far in excess of what I usually do with tires.
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The best thing I ever bought was tire and rim insurance on my car. About a month after I picked up my car we took a short little road trip and my wife runs over a massive bolt. We had to drive 40 miles home on 5psi and it would've cost $323 to replace but got it free. That one tire replacement took a huge chunk of what my insurance cost ($500)
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Don't think this will see the market any time soon, but it is cool
https://youtu.be/499TkWOl4PM
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That's very cool, I thought the vantablack BMW they did was neat but this takes it to another level.
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Don't think this will see the market any time soon, but it is cool
https://youtu.be/499TkWOl4PM
I envision a future where you can get $100 off your monthly car payment by whoring out your body panels for advertisers. The car will use geo location and cellphone data to know who is next to you, and it'll choose what ads to display accordingly.
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Don't think this will see the market any time soon, but it is cool
https://youtu.be/499TkWOl4PM
I envision a future where you can get $100 off your monthly car payment by whoring out your body panels for advertisers. The car will use geo location and cellphone data to know who is next to you, and it'll choose what ads to display accordingly.
Using your car for advertisement already happens (with stickers and vinyl of course). Once technology is available, I can see this happening, specially in cities.
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Don't think this will see the market any time soon, but it is cool
https://youtu.be/499TkWOl4PM
I envision a future where you can get $100 off your monthly car payment by whoring out your body panels for advertisers. The car will use geo location and cellphone data to know who is next to you, and it'll choose what ads to display accordingly.
If we're going to go all Minority Report, throw in a governmental override, where a criminal suspect's car begins flashing bright orange.
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Don't think this will see the market any time soon, but it is cool
https://youtu.be/499TkWOl4PM
I envision a future where you can get $100 off your monthly car payment by whoring out your body panels for advertisers. The car will use geo location and cellphone data to know who is next to you, and it'll choose what ads to display accordingly.
If we're going to go all Minority Report, throw in a governmental override, where a criminal suspect's car begins flashing bright orange.
And then they remotely lock the doors and redirect it to a police station (assuming cars are driving themselves at this point).
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Saw this on Reddit. Felt like sharing.
(https://external-preview.redd.it/_dK6SthzLUt8LdZKhuf5y-d_EghNiJlicZnUGsRbCNk.jpg?width=614&auto=webp&s=846a11fe74d0099743269c0c1f8a752c12f1fa8a)
It's a twin turbo 27L Rolls Royce tank engine in a Crown Vic.
- Weighs in at 4469lbs/2027kg
- Weight distribution is 55.8% in the front and 44.2% in the rear
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Christ that is awesome. The weight distribution is what's really surprising.
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I really hate this kind of thing.
https://edition.cnn.com/2022/07/14/business/bmw-subscription/index.html
BMW is now offering British drivers the option of enjoying a heated seat on a monthly subscription basis. Of course, you can still get heated seats the regular way -- just buy them as an option when you purchase the car -- but for those who didn't do that, or who bought a used car without the feature, BMW will enable it for a monthly fee so you can try out having a nice warm seat on a cold day.
Heated seats, purchased on a subscription basis, will cost British drivers £10 a month, the equivalent of about $12.
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I really hate this kind of thing.
https://edition.cnn.com/2022/07/14/business/bmw-subscription/index.html
BMW is now offering British drivers the option of enjoying a heated seat on a monthly subscription basis. Of course, you can still get heated seats the regular way -- just buy them as an option when you purchase the car -- but for those who didn't do that, or who bought a used car without the feature, BMW will enable it for a monthly fee so you can try out having a nice warm seat on a cold day.
Heated seats, purchased on a subscription basis, will cost British drivers £10 a month, the equivalent of about $12.
I'm with you; and I'm somewhat embarrassed that it's my favorite car company spearheading it. Siskel and Ebert give this :tdwn :tdwn
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Don't think this will see the market any time soon, but it is cool
https://youtu.be/499TkWOl4PM
I envision a future where you can get $100 off your monthly car payment by whoring out your body panels for advertisers. The car will use geo location and cellphone data to know who is next to you, and it'll choose what ads to display accordingly.
If we're going to go all Minority Report, throw in a governmental override, where a criminal suspect's car begins flashing bright orange.
My brother being a cop and all... I've long had the idea of a sort of analog version of that; instead of engaging in a chase, have each police car/policeman equipped with a sort of "car stun gun", where you shoot a blob of something - think "Spider-Man's web" kind of thing - that makes the car a beacon for GPS. I know there's the problem of "visual chain of custody" (my words), and the perps can abandon it and run, I get that, but at least the car itself can be tracked which in many cases gets law enforcement where they need to be without engaging in high speed chases.
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Don't think this will see the market any time soon, but it is cool
https://youtu.be/499TkWOl4PM
I envision a future where you can get $100 off your monthly car payment by whoring out your body panels for advertisers. The car will use geo location and cellphone data to know who is next to you, and it'll choose what ads to display accordingly.
If we're going to go all Minority Report, throw in a governmental override, where a criminal suspect's car begins flashing bright orange.
My brother being a cop and all... I've long had the idea of a sort of analog version of that; instead of engaging in a chase, have each police car/policeman equipped with a sort of "car stun gun", where you shoot a blob of something - think "Spider-Man's web" kind of thing - that makes the car a beacon for GPS. I know there's the problem of "visual chain of custody" (my words), and the perps can abandon it and run, I get that, but at least the car itself can be tracked which in many cases gets law enforcement where they need to be without engaging in high speed chases.
Don't the cops already have this??
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Don't think this will see the market any time soon, but it is cool
https://youtu.be/499TkWOl4PM
I envision a future where you can get $100 off your monthly car payment by whoring out your body panels for advertisers. The car will use geo location and cellphone data to know who is next to you, and it'll choose what ads to display accordingly.
If we're going to go all Minority Report, throw in a governmental override, where a criminal suspect's car begins flashing bright orange.
My brother being a cop and all... I've long had the idea of a sort of analog version of that; instead of engaging in a chase, have each police car/policeman equipped with a sort of "car stun gun", where you shoot a blob of something - think "Spider-Man's web" kind of thing - that makes the car a beacon for GPS. I know there's the problem of "visual chain of custody" (my words), and the perps can abandon it and run, I get that, but at least the car itself can be tracked which in many cases gets law enforcement where they need to be without engaging in high speed chases.
Don't the cops already have this??
Not that I know of. Maybe. If so, I have to call my attorney! :) :) :)
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I really hate this kind of thing.
https://edition.cnn.com/2022/07/14/business/bmw-subscription/index.html
BMW is now offering British drivers the option of enjoying a heated seat on a monthly subscription basis. Of course, you can still get heated seats the regular way -- just buy them as an option when you purchase the car -- but for those who didn't do that, or who bought a used car without the feature, BMW will enable it for a monthly fee so you can try out having a nice warm seat on a cold day.
Heated seats, purchased on a subscription basis, will cost British drivers £10 a month, the equivalent of about $12.
I'm with you; and I'm somewhat embarrassed that it's my favorite car company spearheading it. Siskel and Ebert give this :tdwn :tdwn
Yes this pisses me off but isn't surprising, they tried this with apple carplay and got a bunch of blowback.
That said and I'm biased because I've owned two BMW's and I'm seriously debating the new M2 when that gets released they aren't the only one.
For example Tesla does the same thing with their feature set, you can subscribe to certain services in the car
Toyota tried charging for remote start
Lexus charges for remote start through the key (I was pissed when I found this out on my RC300)
BMW has hence said that they will charge monthly if you didn't pay for the option in full at purchase but that's a bunch of BS. It's probably them trying to catch profits from cars that are sold on the used market.
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Are there any (current) BMW models that come without heated seats?
I paid for a subscription to use Subaru's Starlink tech ($75 for 3 years I believe). But I don't know how I feel about pay a monthly fee for heated seats. My guess is that it is meant for those that lease a vehicle and get whatever the most basic model is, but still want heated seats, just me guessing here.
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It's not the heated seats that bother me. It's the trickle-down aspect of it. At this point letting any non-BMW certified tech work on your car is probably going to void the warranty, because enabling such things could be done like that. In my car an independent could talk to the CAN bus and enable/disable all sorts of stuff (including tweaking the engine for more HP). This is just another thing that's becoming a service rather than a possession. Your car is going to have to phone home to the mothership on the regular, and if it can't verify that you're not ripping them off it'll just shut down.
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Are there any (current) BMW models that come without heated seats?
I paid for a subscription to use Subaru's Starlink tech ($75 for 3 years I believe). But I don't know how I feel about pay a monthly fee for heated seats. My guess is that it is meant for those that lease a vehicle and get whatever the most basic model is, but still want heated seats, just me guessing here.
I have no problem with services like Starlink. That requires a constant team of people and upkeep, just like a streaming service or satellite radio. Heated seats are just hardware that require no resources on BMW's end after the point of sale.
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It's not the heated seats that bother me. It's the trickle-down aspect of it. At this point letting any non-BMW certified tech work on your car is probably going to void the warranty, because enabling such things could be done like that. In my car an independent could talk to the CAN bus and enable/disable all sorts of stuff (including tweaking the engine for more HP). This is just another thing that's becoming a service rather than a possession. Your car is going to have to phone home to the mothership on the regular, and if it can't verify that you're not ripping them off it'll just shut down.
This is HIGHLY accurate. Even mine - a 2013 - is programmable to a degree that I can't even find the limits of. This is probably within the capabilities of that car, but it is certainly within the capabilities of the current models. My car has an electronic parking brake, and it's triggered by a number of modules/relays that can prevent the car from moving (I can't roll my car forward with the driver's door open, for example). I don't know the extent of the link on my car (I get updated time/date, but I don't know if it can send/receive operational metrics. My wife's Volvo, can though.) That irks me. Cars are still, fundamentally, a physics experiment: power (either electricity, or spark/fuel/air), a mechanical translation of energy to torque, the friction of the rubber and the road, leading ultimately to wind blowing through what little hair I have left. All this fucks with that even further than they've been fucked with so far.
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It's not the heated seats that bother me. It's the trickle-down aspect of it. At this point letting any non-BMW certified tech work on your car is probably going to void the warranty, because enabling such things could be done like that. In my car an independent could talk to the CAN bus and enable/disable all sorts of stuff (including tweaking the engine for more HP). This is just another thing that's becoming a service rather than a possession. Your car is going to have to phone home to the mothership on the regular, and if it can't verify that you're not ripping them off it'll just shut down.
This is HIGHLY accurate. Even mine - a 2013 - is programmable to a degree that I can't even find the limits of. This is probably within the capabilities of that car, but it is certainly within the capabilities of the current models. My car has an electronic parking brake, and it's triggered by a number of modules/relays that can prevent the car from moving (I can't roll my car forward with the driver's door open, for example). I don't know the extent of the link on my car (I get updated time/date, but I don't know if it can send/receive operational metrics. My wife's Volvo, can though.) That irks me. Cars are still, fundamentally, a physics experiment: power (either electricity, or spark/fuel/air), a mechanical translation of energy to torque, the friction of the rubber and the road, leading ultimately to wind blowing through what little hair I have left. All this fucks with that even further than they've been fucked with so far.
Yeah, this is why I'll likely be sticking with older cars from here on out. It should be a simple as a key, a battery, a starter and a solenoid, and off you go. Ever since my mom's Audi got bricked because an anti-theft device* failed and required a $2800 steering column (programmed by the mothership in Germany), that was it for newfangled computerized cars AFAIC.
I actually drove to Houston a while back to look at a lovely e46. Stick with the ZHP package. Loved it. Took it to get PPI'ed and they found some sort of interlock on there that couldn't be explained, and it was interfering with the OBDII link. It was almost certainly put in place by a finance company sometime back, but the service techs wouldn't touch it. I had to pass on it because some random element could brick the car.
*The irony is that had the car simply been stolen we would have been fine with that. The problem is that the financial ramifications to Allstate are far, far more important than the hardship of us lowly proles.
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The e46 is, in a lot of ways, the perfect car (well, the e39 is, but that's a step above). My stepson has one (an M3) and it's the best transmission I've ever driven. Smooth, challenging without being difficult.
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The e46 is, in a lot of ways, the perfect car (well, the e39 is, but that's a step above). My stepson has one (an M3) and it's the best transmission I've ever driven. Smooth, challenging without being difficult.
I miss my e46, god did I hate it when I owned it though. I can't tell you how many weekends I spent taking it apart and putting it back together.
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An e46 M3 might well be my next (and hopefully last) car. That said, I may also decide just to buy a truck, slap an enormous bumper on the front, and lift it enough that I can drive by my own set of rules. At least once a day I regret not being able to drive over a median or across a sidewalk.
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The e46 is, in a lot of ways, the perfect car (well, the e39 is, but that's a step above). My stepson has one (an M3) and it's the best transmission I've ever driven. Smooth, challenging without being difficult.
I miss my e46, god did I hate it when I owned it though. I can't tell you how many weekends I spent taking it apart and putting it back together.
But you COULD! That's the beauty. I spent last weekend working on my f10; I switched out the door handle (it had that sticky residue on it), I changed the cabin air filters, and I swapped out the blower motor. I have to do brakes now; I used to do the brakes on my e83 no problem. As much as I want to - it's fun work - I won't touch it. I did everything on the older 3-series, including changing out the transmission (other than a specific wrench, actually easier than it sounds).
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An e46 M3 might well be my next (and hopefully last) car. That said, I may also decide just to buy a truck, slap an enormous bumper on the front, and lift it enough that I can drive by my own set of rules. At least once a day I regret not being able to drive over a median or across a sidewalk.
Both, brother. At least up here, if you get a good enough deal on your daily, it's not a luxury (other than parking space) to have two. I have my 2013 sedan and a POS '99 Dodge 4x4 pickup (well, in the process of swapping it out for a 2003 F350, though that's diesel, so not a great bargain to fuel up). I register, insure, and maintain for about the same price as my wife's car (we didn't cut corners on hers because she drives the grandkids frequently; even then, we didn't buy new, we bought Certified. With Volvo the warranty is really generous).
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An e46 M3 might well be my next (and hopefully last) car. That said, I may also decide just to buy a truck, slap an enormous bumper on the front, and lift it enough that I can drive by my own set of rules. At least once a day I regret not being able to drive over a median or across a sidewalk.
I'm not sure if you watch this guy or not but I love his BMW restoration videos: https://www.youtube.com/c/M539Restorations
The e46 is, in a lot of ways, the perfect car (well, the e39 is, but that's a step above). My stepson has one (an M3) and it's the best transmission I've ever driven. Smooth, challenging without being difficult.
I miss my e46, god did I hate it when I owned it though. I can't tell you how many weekends I spent taking it apart and putting it back together.
But you COULD! That's the beauty. I spent last weekend working on my f10; I switched out the door handle (it had that sticky residue on it), I changed the cabin air filters, and I swapped out the blower motor. I have to do brakes now; I used to do the brakes on my e83 no problem. As much as I want to - it's fun work - I won't touch it. I did everything on the older 3-series, including changing out the transmission (other than a specific wrench, actually easier than it sounds).
Very true, but I've come to a point where I don't want to wrench on my daily. I like working on cars I don't need to rely on for transportation. Plus now I have the cayman which requires a lift for literally anything :lol
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An e46 M3 might well be my next (and hopefully last) car. That said, I may also decide just to buy a truck, slap an enormous bumper on the front, and lift it enough that I can drive by my own set of rules. At least once a day I regret not being able to drive over a median or across a sidewalk.
I'm not sure if you watch this guy or not but I love his BMW restoration videos: https://www.youtube.com/c/M539Restorations
The e46 is, in a lot of ways, the perfect car (well, the e39 is, but that's a step above). My stepson has one (an M3) and it's the best transmission I've ever driven. Smooth, challenging without being difficult.
I miss my e46, god did I hate it when I owned it though. I can't tell you how many weekends I spent taking it apart and putting it back together.
But you COULD! That's the beauty. I spent last weekend working on my f10; I switched out the door handle (it had that sticky residue on it), I changed the cabin air filters, and I swapped out the blower motor. I have to do brakes now; I used to do the brakes on my e83 no problem. As much as I want to - it's fun work - I won't touch it. I did everything on the older 3-series, including changing out the transmission (other than a specific wrench, actually easier than it sounds).
Very true, but I've come to a point where I don't want to wrench on my daily. I like working on cars I don't need to rely on for transportation. Plus now I have the cayman which requires a lift for literally anything :lol
No, that's a fair point and I agree. It then becomes un-fun.
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Yeah, I only have my DD, so any maintenance becomes a "must accomplish immediately" obligation. That really blows. It's gotten so I'd rather just pay to have work done, though there are certainly things I enjoy doing myself. Also, the front of my e46 is dropped enough that I had to build ramps to drive on just to get it high enough that I could get a jack under the jack points. :lol
I used to do the brakes on my e83 no problem. As much as I want to - it's fun work - I won't touch it.
Why? Brakes are one of the jobs I enjoy. I actually have heard of some cars that won't unlock the pads without the car being in some variety of service mode. Ostensibly related to electronic e-brakes, but certainly just to make sure that only authorized techs (who pay big bucks for the software) can do any work on the cars.
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Yeah, I only have my DD, so any maintenance becomes a "must accomplish immediately" obligation. That really blows. It's gotten so I'd rather just pay to have work done, though there are certainly things I enjoy doing myself. Also, the front of my e46 is dropped enough that I had to build ramps to drive on just to get it high enough that I could get a jack under the jack points. :lol
And on my car, scraping the crap out of the front air damn. :) :)
I used to do the brakes on my e83 no problem. As much as I want to - it's fun work - I won't touch it.
Why? Brakes are one of the jobs I enjoy. I actually have heard of some cars that won't unlock the pads without the car being in some variety of service mode. Ostensibly related to electronic e-brakes, but certainly just to make sure that only authorized techs (who pay big bucks for the software) can do any work on the cars.
Well, the electronic e-brakes on the rear CERTAINLY preclude me working on it. My stepson used to be a tech for the dealer and he (politely, kindly) said, you don't want to get involved in that. The front ones aren't connected to that system, but I fear that even the sensors are more complicated than the ones on the older X3. That was just a friction sensor; the plastic wears down, the circuit closes and the light goes on. I don't know that the 2013 is that simple, since it feeds to the xDrive computer. Maybe I'm wrong, though, I don't know. Certainly, I'm with you; a brake job is a satisfying experience (and if you can do them yourself, it's a money saver; it was $1000 to do front and back brakes on the X3; I could do it all myself - using decent pads and rotors - for about $200 and the ability to tell the wife I saved $800 for the next 35,000 miles).
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Yeah, I didn't think about wheel speed sensors. I'm pretty sure they're in the hubs in my e46, so brakes won't effect them. In newer models they probably went out of their way to integrate them into the hubs, the pads, the rotors, and probably the heated seats just for good measure. Nowadays I think that half of BMW's design team is looking for ways to needlessly complicate things just to monopolize their service.
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Are vehicle inspections thorough enough to tell me if my vehicle will survive a road trip?
Car's not having symptoms or anything, it's just a bit older and I want to be prepared.
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What kind of inspection are we talking about and how far?
I think you can do a fairly thorough one yourself, check tires, fluids (get an oil change before you go), make sure no check engine light is on, and if it is swing by autozone and have them pull the code for you if you don't have a reader yourself.
Honestly highway driving is fairly easy on a car, it's city driving that really beats it up. What are you driving MJ?
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‘05 Town and Country
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I dropped my car off at the garage this morning. It's making a really annoying hum. It was starting at like 60mph a few weeks ago, and now it's starting at around 25mph. It sounds like a B-29 or something bomber flying in the distance. It seems to be solely dependent on speed. It'll make the exact same noise regardless of which gear I'm in, whether or not on on the throttle, or even if I'm in neutral and coasting. I've had a few people say it's a wheel bearing, but I've had that happen twice in the past and it sounded a lot more like metal on metal in those instances.
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I dropped my car off at the garage this morning. It's making a really annoying hum. It was starting at like 60mph a few weeks ago, and now it's starting at around 25mph. It sounds like a B-29 or something bomber flying in the distance. It seems to be solely dependent on speed. It'll make the exact same noise regardless of which gear I'm in, whether or not on on the throttle, or even if I'm in neutral and coasting. I've had a few people say it's a wheel bearing, but I've had that happen twice in the past and it sounded a lot more like metal on metal in those instances.
That would have been my first suggestion. POSSIBLY a stuck caliper, too, though you'd feel that more at lower speeds than higher.
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I dropped my car off at the garage this morning. It's making a really annoying hum. It was starting at like 60mph a few weeks ago, and now it's starting at around 25mph. It sounds like a B-29 or something bomber flying in the distance. It seems to be solely dependent on speed. It'll make the exact same noise regardless of which gear I'm in, whether or not on on the throttle, or even if I'm in neutral and coasting. I've had a few people say it's a wheel bearing, but I've had that happen twice in the past and it sounded a lot more like metal on metal in those instances.
That would have been my first suggestion. POSSIBLY a stuck caliper, too, though you'd feel that more at lower speeds than higher.
Wheel bearings will often times start with the noise before failing to the point of grinding. It could also be that your tires have just worn to a point where they're noisier than they were. That's something you may or may not feel.
First step would be to see if you can isolate which wheel is making the noise. All for bearings don't fail at once. You've probably only got one that's failing.
edit: Stadler's stuck caliper is certainly a possibility, and you'll notice that immediately at the pump. That will usually cost you a mile or two per gallon, at least in my experience.
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Are vehicle inspections thorough enough to tell me if my vehicle will survive a road trip?
Car's not having symptoms or anything, it's just a bit older and I want to be prepared.
Thorough isn't really necessary here. If you've got a decent relationship with a mechanic he'd be happy to shine a light at things and tell you if you're good to go. ReapKK's advice is solid. One change I'd make is that I'd want somebody to look at the suspension/front end stuff and make sure the bushings and joints are in good shape.
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I dropped my car off at the garage this morning. It's making a really annoying hum. It was starting at like 60mph a few weeks ago, and now it's starting at around 25mph. It sounds like a B-29 or something bomber flying in the distance. It seems to be solely dependent on speed. It'll make the exact same noise regardless of which gear I'm in, whether or not on on the throttle, or even if I'm in neutral and coasting. I've had a few people say it's a wheel bearing, but I've had that happen twice in the past and it sounded a lot more like metal on metal in those instances.
That would have been my first suggestion. POSSIBLY a stuck caliper, too, though you'd feel that more at lower speeds than higher.
Wheel bearings will often times start with the noise before failing to the point of grinding. It could also be that your tires have just worn to a point where they're noisier than they were. That's something you may or may not feel.
First step would be to see if you can isolate which wheel is making the noise. All for bearings don't fail at once. You've probably only got one that's failing.
I thought it was the tires as my front ones were pretty worn. I got a new set of 4 two weeks ago and it didn't change anything :/
I'd imagine that if one is failing now, that means the other are on the way?
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I dropped my car off at the garage this morning. It's making a really annoying hum. It was starting at like 60mph a few weeks ago, and now it's starting at around 25mph. It sounds like a B-29 or something bomber flying in the distance. It seems to be solely dependent on speed. It'll make the exact same noise regardless of which gear I'm in, whether or not on on the throttle, or even if I'm in neutral and coasting. I've had a few people say it's a wheel bearing, but I've had that happen twice in the past and it sounded a lot more like metal on metal in those instances.
That would have been my first suggestion. POSSIBLY a stuck caliper, too, though you'd feel that more at lower speeds than higher.
Wheel bearings will often times start with the noise before failing to the point of grinding. It could also be that your tires have just worn to a point where they're noisier than they were. That's something you may or may not feel.
First step would be to see if you can isolate which wheel is making the noise. All for bearings don't fail at once. You've probably only got one that's failing.
I thought it was the tires as my front ones were pretty worn. I got a new set of 4 two weeks ago and it didn't change anything :/
I'd imagine that if one is failing now, that means the other are on the way?
Not necessarily. We're talking about parts that could go 50-150k miles. Ideally you'd replace them as pairs (axle), but that's not entirely necessary. Depending on the car the labor could be huge. In my case I'll do the front ones myself (and it's an exhausting day's work) but I won't go near the rear ones.
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I dropped my car off at the garage this morning. It's making a really annoying hum. It was starting at like 60mph a few weeks ago, and now it's starting at around 25mph. It sounds like a B-29 or something bomber flying in the distance. It seems to be solely dependent on speed. It'll make the exact same noise regardless of which gear I'm in, whether or not on on the throttle, or even if I'm in neutral and coasting. I've had a few people say it's a wheel bearing, but I've had that happen twice in the past and it sounded a lot more like metal on metal in those instances.
That would have been my first suggestion. POSSIBLY a stuck caliper, too, though you'd feel that more at lower speeds than higher.
Wheel bearings will often times start with the noise before failing to the point of grinding. It could also be that your tires have just worn to a point where they're noisier than they were. That's something you may or may not feel.
First step would be to see if you can isolate which wheel is making the noise. All for bearings don't fail at once. You've probably only got one that's failing.
I thought it was the tires as my front ones were pretty worn. I got a new set of 4 two weeks ago and it didn't change anything :/
I'd imagine that if one is failing now, that means the other are on the way?
Not necessarily. We're talking about parts that could go 50-150k miles. Ideally you'd replace them as pairs (axle), but that's not entirely necessary. Depending on the car the labor could be huge. In my case I'll do the front ones myself (and it's an exhausting day's work) but I won't go near the rear ones.
In my experience, all this is true.
What are you driving now?
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What am I driving? I have a 2014 Mazda cx-9 with 114K and change miles on it.
Both of my rear bearings were shot. The mechanic could only get one in on the shirt notice, so he replaced the worse one. I'm scheduled to get the second one the Monday after next. It was $358. No great, but not as bad as I was expecting given the price of things lately.
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What am I driving? I have a 2014 Mazda cx-9 with 114K and change miles on it.
Both of my rear bearings were shot. The mechanic could only get one in on the shirt notice, so he replaced the worse one. I'm scheduled to get the second one the Monday after next. It was $358. No great, but not as bad as I was expecting given the price of things lately.
That's where I was going; I asked my step son (the family mechanic) and on that car you don't have to do both unless both need to be done. That's not a bad price for that work generally (though I didn't ask him about that price and a Mazda specifically).
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Question for the EV people. If I rent a Prius for a week to drive around So-Cal will it be a PITA? In all likelihood I'll put nearly 1k hwy miles on it. Will the mileage be much better than your typical rental cars? Is the gas tank big enough that I won't be stopping more often than a normal car? For the same price I can get a Mustang (the two cheapest cars at this particular Avis), and naturally I'd prefer the Mustang. But given gas prices in So-Cal, that advertised 53/58 looks mighty appealing.
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Well, keep in mind your typical Prius isn't an EV, just a hybrid. I believe they still have a PHEV version as well, but even if you never plug it in you can still use it as a normal hybrid. Like any car, it won't get the full 53/58 in real life, but still will do a lot better than a Mustang. Looks like the newer Prius models average out around an 11 gallon tank, so take that times 50 mpg and you're looking at 550 miles a tank, about.
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Interesting read on Dodge's approach to the future of muscle.
https://www.cnn.com/2022/08/17/business/dodge-electric-muscle-car/index.html
I'm curious to see how this manifests.
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Interesting read on Dodge's approach to the future of muscle.
https://www.cnn.com/2022/08/17/business/dodge-electric-muscle-car/index.html
I'm curious to see how this manifests.
Having a car that can perform amazingly well while being almost silent is one of the coolest parts of electric cars, and this move by Dodge is absolutely stunningly stupid and 100% what I'd expect from Dodge.
Right up there with Civics that sound like a stock car and rice rockets. Just fucking stupid.
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It actually makes a lot of sense. They're not building EVs for tree huggers. They're building sports cars, and people who own sports cars want engine noise. Years ago BMW actually had to drill a couple of holes in the firewall to pipe that noise in when M drivers complained that they couldn't hear the engine--and truth be told, that's important. Best part of driving my old E30 was hearing the syncros mesh up when you went to shift gears. Sadly, American muscle cars being ridiculously loud is part of their appeal. That's one of the reason I hate them so much.
Everybody likes to think that BMW drivers are the most obnoxious, and I can understand why some my feel that way, but to me the title goes to people who drive Challengers and Mustangs and Corvettes and whatnot. Part of the appeal is being as obnoxious and annoying to the general population as it's possible to be. They now beat out Harley people in that regard. Nobody in a BMW will ever wake you up at 0330 with exhaust noise that rattles your windows. And if Ford and Chevy were to quiet there cars people would complain. They have to be the loudest thing on the road or people won't like them. BMW's approach was to make them louder on the insides. Fucking Americans want them louder for everybody else (and probably whisper quiet on the inside).
I kind of like the shifting gears part, that's also a key appeal to driving a sports car. They'll ruin that too, though. At best you'll just get clutchless paddle-shifters. Better than a slushbox, but still not the same.
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It actually makes a lot of sense. They're not building EVs for tree huggers. They're building sports cars, and people who own sports cars want engine noise. Years ago BMW actually had to drill a couple of holes in the firewall to pipe that noise in when M drivers complained that they couldn't hear the engine--and truth be told, that's important. Best part of driving my old E30 was hearing the syncros mesh up when you went to shift gears. Sadly, American muscle cars being ridiculously loud is part of their appeal. That's one of the reason I hate them so much.
Everybody likes to think that BMW drivers are the most obnoxious, and I can understand why some my feel that way, but to me the title goes to people who drive Challengers and Mustangs and Corvettes and whatnot. Part of the appeal is being as obnoxious and annoying to the general population as it's possible to be. They now beat out Harley people in that regard. Nobody in a BMW will ever wake you up at 0330 with exhaust noise that rattles your windows. And if Ford and Chevy were to quiet there cars people would complain. They have to be the loudest thing on the road or people won't like them. BMW's approach was to make them louder on the insides. Fucking Americans want them louder for everybody else (and probably whisper quiet on the inside).
I kind of like the shifting gears part, that's also a key appeal to driving a sports car. They'll ruin that too, though. At best you'll just get clutchless paddle-shifters. Better than a slushbox, but still not the same.
I'm not saying that Dodge isn't correctly playing into what their consumers want, they certainly are. What I'm saying is their typical consumer is, in this sense, awful and a lot of what is wrong with this world. Might as well offer the cars with a factory option to install a coal roll feature while we're spending money on stupidity that helps no one.
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Nick, how much was your Tesla? Ballpark.
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Nick, how much was your Tesla? Ballpark.
Was curious on a couple of items, so I'll give you exact numbers.
My Model Y long range was 52k and I waited about 2 months for it when I ordered at the end of October, 2020.
By comparison, today you'd get the same car at 66k in 6 months if you're lucky.
Trade in value for my car, according to KBB currently sits at 60k.
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Damn. My GMC truck was 40 grand with toys. I did have trade in plus talking down. I'd have to do homework on electric vs. Gas for 5 years.
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Interesting read on Dodge's approach to the future of muscle.
https://www.cnn.com/2022/08/17/business/dodge-electric-muscle-car/index.html
I'm curious to see how this manifests.
Having a car that can perform amazingly well while being almost silent is one of the coolest parts of electric cars, and this move by Dodge is absolutely stunningly stupid and 100% what I'd expect from Dodge.
Right up there with Civics that sound like a stock car and rice rockets. Just fucking stupid.
Closest I've ever come to REALLY being hit by a car was in Philly, and it was exactly that; I was so used to hearing cars on the street, I didn't notice the EV until it was almost too late. I get the idea of not having a Kiss concert every time your car leaves the driveway, but there's something beautiful about the purr of a well-tuned, high-precision engine.
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Damn. My GMC truck was 40 grand with toys. I did have trade in plus talking down. I'd have to do homework on electric vs. Gas for 5 years.
My stepson just paid $58k for a two-year old diesel pickup, loaded. A new one spec'd out to between $80k and $105k.
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Interesting read on Dodge's approach to the future of muscle.
https://www.cnn.com/2022/08/17/business/dodge-electric-muscle-car/index.html
I'm curious to see how this manifests.
Having a car that can perform amazingly well while being almost silent is one of the coolest parts of electric cars, and this move by Dodge is absolutely stunningly stupid and 100% what I'd expect from Dodge.
Right up there with Civics that sound like a stock car and rice rockets. Just fucking stupid.
Closest I've ever come to REALLY being hit by a car was in Philly, and it was exactly that; I was so used to hearing cars on the street, I didn't notice the EV until it was almost too late. I get the idea of not having a Kiss concert every time your car leaves the driveway, but there's something beautiful about the purr of a well-tuned, high-precision engine.
EVs are now required to emit a noise below a certain speed to help with this situation.
As for the engine noise, I'll say this, they can make whatever sounds make people happy INSIDE the car and I'm fine. If you prefer listening to engine noises instead of music/whatever, then by all means be my guest. It's when there is obnoxious unnecessary noise pollution OUTSIDE the car that I have an issue.
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Mercedes Puts Faster Acceleration Behind A Subscription Paywall (https://www.techdirt.com/2022/11/28/mercedes-puts-faster-acceleration-behind-a-subscription-paywall/)
According to Mercedes, the yearly fee increases the maximum horsepower and torque of the car, while also increasing overall performance. Acceleration from 0-60 mph is said to improve by 0.8-1.0 seconds and the overall characteristics of the electric motors are supposed to change as well. The extra performance is unlocked by selecting the Dynamic drive mode.
That's nice of them. You buy a car and if you want it to perform the way it was built to you pay an extra $100/mo. What's interesting to me is that this probably isn't about the revenue they get from the subscriptions, but rather the revenue they'll make by being the only legally available service option. Using a third party shop, if they're capable of working on them, will likely violate your warranty, and if you tamper with their code you're committing a criminal act.
Fuck yeah, capitalism!
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310+ MPH on a 2006 Ford GT :eek
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYz-6fnLm9U
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Yesterday I stopped by a Lucid dealer in Boston. We don't have one in Charlotte and I've only ever seen one Lucid in person. What a car. I really wish we had a dealer because I would've leased one instead of the Lexus I just got. It was well designed, comfortable, and felt like a premium vehicle (it should feel that way with it's price tag). I would love to get one as a daily.
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310+ MPH on a 2006 Ford GT :eek
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYz-6fnLm9U
Wild.
How's downshifting in that thing work? It looks like the driver upshifted all the way, but left it in the final gear before throwing the chute. Does the car come to stop while still in the tallest gear?
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310+ MPH on a 2006 Ford GT :eek
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYz-6fnLm9U
Wild.
How's downshifting in that thing work? It looks like the driver upshifted all the way, but left it in the final gear before throwing the shoot. Does the car come to stop while still in the tallest gear?
Pretty sure he dropped the clutch once he hit his top speed and popped the chute. You can see the RPMs drop off at that point, and I didn't see him shift to neutral.
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I haven't been in the market for buying a new car since forever. Last car I bought was a used Camry 2003 for $5000 back in 2010 I think it was. Was driving a 1999 Camry before that. I'm not really a car person and don't keep up at all with what's going on in the car world. I only hear and read small things here and there.
I've done rentals which sorta lets me know what newer cars can do and some of the features modern cars have. I havent rented in about 3 years and even then were mostly basic minivans or SUVs. I gather this isn't a shock to most but I was really astounded by the technology and features that come in a car nowadays. I've been car shopping for about 10 days and finally settled on a Subaru Outback Premium 2024. I get that big screens are the in thing, I'm just very surprised how well integrated with your phone it is. Pairing my phone was super quick and Android Auto translates quite well for the driving experience.
I'm equally impressed by the Adaptive cruise control feature in this car and from what I have read seems to be becoming more and more standard in base models. Lane departure systems and the driving assists in this car is a lot more useful than I thought it would be. In my head it was all gimmicky but I'm just so surprised how helpful it actually is. The fact that I barely need to use my brake and gas pedal with the adaptive cruise control just blows my mind.
Being able to remotely start my car, lock or unlock the doors, or find out exact location through an app is truly something I didn't think would happen so fast. It all feels so refined too.
Welcome to the 21st century old man.
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Took a little road trip with the wife in our 2017 Tucson, got to our destination town and things got weird. As we got off the highway the oil light started flickering then when we hit a red light the car died. Put it in park and it restarted but this scenario played out every time we hit a light or stop sign. Plus the engine sounded “off”.
With it being a Saturday afternoon our options were limited to find a service place so we ended up at a quick lube place just to check things over. Oil levels were fine, battery was fine. Car indicated it was due for an oil change in 28 days so we went ahead and did one. They saw no leaks or any signs of anything unusual.
After they serviced us we went on our way and everything seems normal. Drove it the 45 miles back home with no issues.
Any thoughts as to what may have happened?
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Took a little road trip with the wife in our 2017 Tucson, got to our destination town and things got weird. As we got off the highway the oil light started flickering then when we hit a red light the car died. Put it in park and it restarted but this scenario played out every time we hit a light or stop sign. Plus the engine sounded “off”.
With it being a Saturday afternoon our options were limited to find a service place so we ended up at a quick lube place just to check things over. Oil levels were fine, battery was fine. Car indicated it was due for an oil change in 28 days so we went ahead and did one. They saw no leaks or any signs of anything unusual.
After they serviced us we went on our way and everything seems normal. Drove it the 45 miles back home with no issues.
Any thoughts as to what may have happened?
Blocked filter? Bad oil pump? Blocked cooler or the pipes that go to it?
If the oil pressure is low the valves probably won't operate like they're supposed to, hence seeming "off."
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Blockage is the first thing I thought, if an oil change "seemed" to solve the problem. That explains why it gave you grief at stops (when oil pressure is lowest, thus hardest to overcome any impedances). Add that to what Bart said, about the valves.
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Been a couple days and everything appears okay, hopefully it was just something as simple as a blockage.
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I've found myself looking for a new vehicle lately. There's nothing really wrong with mine, but I'm about to hit 140K on the odometer, and with my commute, that continues to climb at a good pace. I paid it off last June and have really liked not having a car payment, even though I've just been putting the equivalent in cash (and then some) in my safe every month.
I'm leaning toward buying a new CX-50 with the intention of keeping it for a decade, with no car payment for last four years. However, the dealer has a couple of loaners and demo models for sale. One in particular is really catching my eye. It's only got 7K miles on it. It's turbo'd and is pretty loaded. Out the door it's the same price as a new base model with heated seats and the 12 speaker Bose system. It also comes with 100,000 mile powertrain warranty, a two year warranty on everything else, and free roadside assistance for the first 72 months.
Thoughts?
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I like it. My neighbor and my buddy have CX-50 and have had nothing but positive things to say about and neither have had any issues. C&D has also continuously rated Mazda's interiors as some of the best for the class and after being in my buddies car I tend to agree. The interior fit and finish was better than my Porsche (when I had it).
Have you cross shopped anything else?
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I'm not what you'd call a fan of crossovers, but that's a good looking car. I've never owned a Mazda, but I know a few people who swear by them. So, I think you'd do well with buying it.
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I'm not what you'd call a fan of crossovers, but that's a good looking car. I've never owned a Mazda, but I know a few people who swear by them. So, I think you'd do well with buying it.
I like it. My neighbor and my buddy have CX-50 and have had nothing but positive things to say about and neither have had any issues. C&D has also continuously rated Mazda's interiors as some of the best for the class and after being in my buddies car I tend to agree. The interior fit and finish was better than my Porsche (when I had it).
Have you cross shopped anything else?
I haven't shopped around, honestly. I really like the Mazda brand, as well as the local dealership and their services, and I would like to stick with them. I put 110K miles on my Mazda3 5dr when I had it, and that was still running like a champ before I was nailed while stopped at the end of an exit ramp. And my current car, a 2014 Mazda CX-9, has only cost me $900 in non-maintenance related work in the 100K miles I've put on it. I'd love a CX-90, but a new one costs more than I'm willing to spend, and the used market is pretty sparse. I'm also sick of having shit gas mileage while needing to drive 300+ miles a week.
The used cx-50 I'm looking at is the Meridian Edition. It's pretty rad looking, imo. The one on the lot looks just like this, but it doesn't include that flat rack on top. It only has the rails.
(https://images.cars.com/cldstatic/wp-content/uploads/mazda-cx-50-2023-07-brown-dynamic-exterior-front-angle-suv.jpg)
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Damn, that looks awesome! I haven't seen that trim around.
Having a good dealer is rare these days, or at least it feels like that in my neck of the woods. Are you going to miss the space of the CX-50?
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Damn, that looks awesome! I haven't seen that trim around.
Having a good dealer is rare these days, or at least it feels like that in my neck of the woods. Are you going to miss the space of the CX-50?
The CX-9 you mean?
There will definitely be times, yeah. I probably wont be able to fit my smoker in the back of the CX-50, and 2X4s become a bit of an issue, but I should be able to strap those on the roof should I need to. However, my dad is actually in the market for an SUV beater for winter and spring gardening stuff. He's expressed interest in buying my CX-9. I really hope he decides to, because I'll still have access to it should I ever need a bigger vehicle for the day :lol
I was really looking forward to the CX-70 unveil two days ago, thinking we'd get a sweet new vehicle smack dab in the middle of the 50 and 90, both in size and in price.
Nope.
The CX-70 is literally just the CX-90 with the third row deleted and the chrome trim painted black. They didn't announce the price, but I can't imagine it being any more than just $2000-$2500 cheaper. The base CX-70 is going to include some new tech that's not standard on the CX-90, so it's entirely possible they cost exactly the same once it releases. It seems like a dumb move.
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Yup, sorry I meant CX-9.
Have you ever thought about getting a flatbed trailer? My stepdad got one years ago and he loves it.
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Yup, sorry I meant CX-9.
Have you ever thought about getting a flatbed trailer? My stepdad got one years ago and he loves it.
I wouldn't be opposed to one, but that'd have to wait until I move. My current house/property couldn't accommodate one.
I wouldn't mind something like this thing for my smokers though. Even on the CX-9, it'd be a hell of a lot easier than getting it in and out of the vehicle.
(https://www.snowblowerforum.com/attachments/img_0487-jpg.96394/)
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I bought a Subaru Outback Premium trim last month and I've been very pleased with it. They have a Wilderness trim which has some additional features like an 18" wheel base and water resistant seats I think? Now I don't do any camping or off road driving but I did see that it's very popular model for those activites. It also helped that the dealer I was working with were very good and helpful and suggested a car that fit my budget.
Mazda cars are nice too, I was thinking of the CX-9 as a possibility, I just never got round to it.
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Yup, sorry I meant CX-9.
Have you ever thought about getting a flatbed trailer? My stepdad got one years ago and he loves it.
I wouldn't be opposed to one, but that'd have to wait until I move. My current house/property couldn't accommodate one.
I wouldn't mind something like this thing for my smokers though. Even on the CX-9, it'd be a hell of a lot easier than getting it in and out of the vehicle.
(https://www.snowblowerforum.com/attachments/img_0487-jpg.96394/)
Oh that's nice! I always get nervous behind those :lol
I bought a Subaru Outback Premium trim last month and I've been very pleased with it. They have a Wilderness trim which has some additional features like an 18" wheel base and water resistant seats I think? Now I don't do any camping or off road driving but I did see that it's very popular model for those activites. It also helped that the dealer I was working with were very good and helpful and suggested a car that fit my budget.
Mazda cars are nice too, I was thinking of the CX-9 as a possibility, I just never got round to it.
That Subbie is a nice car, I see one in black from time to time and I always notice it.
I just saw that the M4 refreshe is coming 2025, I had an allocation for an 2024 but passed. Maybe a bad car decision is in my future :lol
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Yup, sorry I meant CX-9.
Have you ever thought about getting a flatbed trailer? My stepdad got one years ago and he loves it.
I have one too; one of the best purchases I ever made ($500, cash, on Facebook Marketplace).
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Oh that's nice! I always get nervous behind those :lol
No kidding! Have to trust that the drive secured everything properly lol
And if they improve the battery range, my next vehicle will probably be the Subaru Solterra. Such a nice looking car
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Interesting thing going on right now with used cars. The focus is entirely on reliability at this point. You simply can't give away older BMWs right now, where traditionally they've been highly sought after because of their durability. My E46 with just under 100k five years ago was a bargain at 6500. Now I'm seeing newer models with similar mileage not selling for 3500. In the meantime, a ten year old Camry with 200k will fetch $8-9k if it's in good condition. A Tacoma can fetch that with 300-400k.
The problem is, and I've probably written about this before, when cars became super-expensive after the plague mechanics ran amok. They knew that nobody could afford to replace their cars, so they had a captive market and began exploiting the hell out of it. They're marking up aftermarket parts to dealer OEM prices. They're jacking up their labour rates (the only thing that seems warranted, really), and basing labour on either book time or practical time based on which is higher. No more applying diagnostics and estimates to the work done, which was common practice for years. You'll pay a couple of hundred to find out what the repair is going to cost now.
Sadly, I got caught up in all of this and I'm scrambling for one of those 10 year old Camrys. They're sought after for a reason. In the meantime my BMW is destined for the scrapyard simply because things that were repairable a few years ago are now massively cost prohibitive. I guess, uh, Fuck Yeah, Capitalism!!
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I was looking at 4-Runners after I paid off my car last year. Even models with 100K on the odometer are still commanding close to $30K. I couldn't believe it.
My mom, who's 69 and about to become a grandmother (not mine!), just bought a 2020 Z4 M40i. She told me she was going to the dealership to look at some cars, and I figured she'd be looking at X5s or something. She traded in her 2012 Z4 hardtop and the dealership gave her $12K for it. They listed it on their lot at $16,000, and after a month, they dropped it to $14,500. It's been a few weeks since that and it's still sitting there. Granted, we're in the middle of winter here, but still. She got rid of it for the reasons you said. It got to an age where any failure was a ridiculous repair bill. The motor that controlled the hardtop's retraction was starting to go, and something got a bit warped as a result. She was quoted something like $8000 to fix it.
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As a current owner of two BMWs (and a third in the yard that my stepson owns) it's all true, and sad, really, since those cars are eminently work-on-able.
My car has heated seats; there is a short in the driver's side heater. Three years ago, it was a $200 fix; pull off the leather seat cover, replace the pad, and you're done. Now, through the dealer, they don't sell the pad standalone; you have to buy the entire seat structure, to the tune of $2,100. I could go to a junk yard and get the pad - and I may still do that - but while I'll do anything mechanically on my cars there are some things I don't want to f- with and reupholstering the leather seats is one of them. Rather a pro do that than me and have the seat covers flap and move forevermore (into the night).
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is a dodge viper a good car? i'm in the market and want to buy one
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is a dodge viper a good car? i'm in the market and want to buy one
As a general rule, no. However, each model year got a little more refined. The problem is that they're essentially track cars with headlights. There was zero refinement in the originals. No windows. No power steering. No AC. Nada. I actually just saw a video a few days ago about how awful the first models were.
Oh, and the hot gas from that cool looking side exhaust will burn the shit out of your legs when you get out.
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As a current owner of two BMWs (and a third in the yard that my stepson owns) it's all true, and sad, really, since those cars are eminently work-on-able.
Some things are certainly a snap to work on. Others can be a PITA. Every time I look under the hood of somebody else's car I'm amazed by how much room there is in there compared to mine. BMW engine bays are really cramped. I've changed plenty of water pumps out, but decided a few years ago to never do it again because it just sucks. Looking at the Accord I'm driving now I could replace damn near anything in there in less time that it takes just to get past the alternator in my E46.
At the same time, experience, a gnarly set of tools, and most importantly a lift makes it all so much easier, so shops don't really have that excuse. I could probably replace the water pump in mine in 3 hours if I really tried. Four tops. Four is what shops charge for it, though, and I guarantee they do it in 2. It bums me out because the plight of my E46 is really not the car's fault. It's just greedy-ass mechanics. Two years ago I'd be fixing the current problems. Hell, I had one shop quote me over a thousand to replace the expansion tank (before angrily deciding he didn't want to do business with me). :lol
The heated seat thing is interesting. While I'm railing on mechanics I should probably bitch about BMW, too. They're doing everything they can to make their cars a "service" now. A few years back they decided they were going to make heated seats a "feature." Something like $25/mo and they'd be activated remotely. That's probably why they wouldn't sell you the heating element. BMW really just wants people to lease their cars now, and the only ones they're still making for drivers are the M cars.
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Been mulling over getting an electric car. The whole eco-friendly vibe, not having to pay for gas, and trying out some cool tech sounds pretty sweet. Plus in my experience they are way nicer to drive. But, every time I hop online to check things out, it feels like most places are still all about gas cars. What gives?
Is it just about more choices, better prices, or maybe worries about where you'd charge an electric car that's keeping everyone stuck on gas? I'm genuinely curious why there's still such a strong lean towards the old-school gas guzzlers when electric seems like the future.
Keen to hear the thoughts here. What's holding you back from going electric, or if you've already made the switch, what sold you?
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Sadly, I got caught up in all of this and I'm scrambling for one of those 10 year old Camrys. They're sought after for a reason. In the meantime my BMW is destined for the scrapyard simply because things that were repairable a few years ago are now massively cost prohibitive. I guess, uh, Fuck Yeah, Capitalism!!
I'm sad to hear that. I miss my e46, I've been keeping an eye on the used market and they typically fall into two categories; showroom BaT condition, or hasn't been serviced in 10 years. Ultimately any time I seriously consider buying one I remember the weekends I spent tearing into the engine bay of my old m3.
I was looking at 4-Runners after I paid off my car last year. Even models with 100K on the odometer are still commanding close to $30K. I couldn't believe it.
The 4Runner, Tacoma, and Subaru WRX market is absolutely wild. I mean I guess it makes sense with the 4Runner, it's the same car for 20+ years :lol
My mom, who's 69 and about to become a grandmother (not mine!), just bought a 2020 Z4 M40i
Nice! the B58 is an amazing engine (my m340i had the same engine).
is a dodge viper a good car? i'm in the market and want to buy one
It's a great car but couldn't be a daily driver (for me, one of the directors at my work dailies an ACR). My buddy had one and while it was fun to ride around in but after an hour in the car it felt like I spent an hour on my motorcycle. It's hot, loud, uncomfortable, and has no drivers aids. The plus is that the viper was always a parts bin special replacement parts can be easily had.
Keen to hear the thoughts here. What's holding you back from going electric, or if you've already made the switch, what sold you?
I'd love to have an ev as a daily but I don't have the space for another car, it just doesn't make sense as my primary car given how much I drive. While I do think that ev is most likely the future I think hybrid is probably the better option for now while the infrastructure for ev expands. I had a rental hybrid a few times and it was great, gas engine for long trips and scooting around on the electric motor in the city.
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Ah, you know, I hadn't really thought about the differences between here in Northern Europe and the States until you mentioned the distances. We've got charging stations pretty much everywhere, which makes running an EV as your go-to a lot smoother. Plus, we're not usually hitting those long distances you guys deal with in the U.S. Makes me realize most resources I've been reading are probably written from a different position than I'll experience over here.
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Welp, I'm getting a "new" car tomorrow. I was hoping to take it home yesterday, but there are too many moving pieces and third parties to deal with on a Saturday.
I ended up buying the CX-50 Meridian Edition with 7,000 miles on it, the one that was used for demos and loans. Negotiation on the car itself was basically non-existent, a first in the five cars I've purchased in my lifetime. The dealer had the original window sheet from when it was new, and the price on it was $44,600. They had it on the lot for $34,500K, and it was established very early on, before they even looked at my trade-in, that that price wasn't going to budge a dollar. It was a completely fair price (what I would have tried to get had it been priced higher), and after some hemin' and hawin', did manage to get an extra $1200 on my trade.
Because it's a certified pre-owned, the bumper-to-bumper warranty is extended out to 4Y/48K miles, and the powertrain warranty is good for 7Y/100K miles. That's more than I originally thought, so I'm happy there.
The only thing I'm a bit bummed about is it's got the base 8 speaker sound system instead of the 12 speaker Bose. I hope in the future I don't find myself wanting. Turns out it did come with the platform on top. The initial pics on the website showed it without it.
(https://preview.redd.it/di3v7mjqxjgc1.png?width=1332&format=png&auto=webp&s=6d228a3b88fe92b675ccf85382ca050d6f8c4967)
(https://preview.redd.it/ftntu94ixjgc1.png?width=1332&format=png&auto=webp&s=5d3aa576fc0653d7c9ce64aa2ce932adc0cc19aa)
(https://preview.redd.it/uf4yid2wxjgc1.png?width=1332&format=png&auto=webp&s=cbf9611566a46a335e7b7f12b7a5d992c5183f10)
(https://preview.redd.it/xqd20rlgxjgc1.png?width=1332&format=png&auto=webp&s=1dc275526918ef1f25674eba28c8e3cf715f1428)
(https://preview.redd.it/96wtwslsxjgc1.png?width=1332&format=png&auto=webp&s=5c77ac284f3d13181d0ddbd1b06aa136d07d11ab)
The thing drives like hell, too. I'm going to be tinting the front windows and blacking out all the badges on the back immediately.
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Really nice looking vehicle! I look at car porn a lot, but the prices are a lot higher since we bought my wife’s mini van in 2013. The van has 128k miles on it and my 2007 Honda Ridgeline has 107k miles.
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That look great! Congrats! I paid that much for my Outback new, and I too kinda regret not getting the higher end speaker system. Subaru's have Harman Kardon and I'm sure it would sound a lot better than the basic setup I have now. It sounds like ass when connected via Android Auto. Slightly better when I connect direct via bluetooth. I do have to try how it will sound with direct analog as it has an aux input.
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Congrats Chino! :tup that is a fantastic looking car.
As for the sound if you really want I'm sure you can upgrade to some aftermarket speakers. You can always bring back the trend of putting 2x12 subs in the back :lol
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Thanks all!
As for the sound if you really want I'm sure you can upgrade to some aftermarket speakers. You can always bring back the trend of putting 2x12 subs in the back :lol
:rollin My mom and dad were doing some cleaning at their house two weeks ago, and my dad called me asking if I wanted my old system. I completely forgot it it was in their attic. It's two Alpine Type-Rs with an 800W amp mounted to the box. I used to have that in my Passat and it took up half the trunk :lol
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Congrats Chino! :tup that is a fantastic looking car.
As for the sound if you really want I'm sure you can upgrade to some aftermarket speakers. You can always bring back the trend of putting 2x12 subs in the back :lol
Bring back? Please visit NY and tell me that ever left :lol
Congrats Chino, that is a sexy looking car :metal How much are you allow to tint your windows before is considered too much? I wanted to tint mine and decided to leave it alone.
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Congrats Chino! :tup that is a fantastic looking car.
As for the sound if you really want I'm sure you can upgrade to some aftermarket speakers. You can always bring back the trend of putting 2x12 subs in the back :lol
Bring back? Please visit NY and tell me that ever left :lol
Congrats Chino, that is a sexy looking car :metal How much are you allow to tint your windows before is considered too much? I wanted to tint mine and decided to leave it alone.
That varies by state. Where I live, you're not supposed to go lower than 35%. I've put 20% on every car I've had tinted, and it's never been an issue, both during pullovers and at spot checks. The place that I go to just requires you to pay in cash if you're going below the legal limit.
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Nice, I should probably look into it at some point.
I always find it interesting where car makers put the cup holders in the center console. I find then to be in an uncomfortable spot in my Crosstrek. I guess my one complaint about my car would be cupholder placement, and lack of automatic lift gate.
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Nice, I should probably look into it at some point.
I always find it interesting where car makers put the cup holders in the center console. I find then to be in an uncomfortable spot in my Crosstrek. I guess my one complaint about my car would be cupholder placement, and lack of automatic lift gate.
That's a worry of mine in the car I just bought. The holders are in front of the shifter rather than behind. When in park, it might be a pain in the ass to get a bottle in and out.
I can't complain too much either way, though. These were the cup holders in my VW Passat (B5 gen) :lol They couldn't hold much, and if you needed to plug something into the cigarette outlet, you couldn't have them out because the tray door would need to be open.
(https://volkswagenforum.com/forum/attachments/volkswagen-passat-cc-21/176d1259314118-vw-passat-b5-reg-dash-rear-cupholder-help-indash-cupholder.jpg)
Somebody once told me that Europeans don't typically (this was 20 years ago) drink things while driving. They don't bring a 20oz coffee on the road with them on the way to work. So many cars were designed without cup holders as a priority, and they'd come up with things like what's pictured above for the US market.
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My wife's BMW has one that comes out of the dash on the passenger side. Which means if you leave it out, and someone climbs into the passenger seat and either doesn't look or doesn't know it's there, your cup holder is a pile of twisted plastic on the floor of the passenger side of the car.
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My wife's BMW has one that comes out of the dash on the passenger side. Which means if you leave it out, and someone climbs into the passenger seat and either doesn't look or doesn't know it's there, your cup holder is a pile of twisted plastic on the floor of the passenger side of the car.
"That'll be $460 for a new one" - BMW probably :lol
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My last car had the worst cup holders of any car I've ever been in. May I present the porsche 718 cupholders (not my pic but interior was the same):
(https://i.imgur.com/1au25q2.jpeg)
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I'd be nervous leaving those there for the sake of the photo, let alone hitting a bump while driving!
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My last car had the worst cup holders of any car I've ever been in. May I present the porsche 718 cupholders (not my pic but interior was the same):
(https://i.imgur.com/1au25q2.jpeg)
That's a Ridiculousness video waiting to happen.
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That's a Ridiculousness video waiting to happen.
Seriously, that is an awful design
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Anyone have experience with Mini-Coopers?
As soon as the kid gets his license we are passing down our RAV4 to him and getting something new for ourselves. The wife really loves Minis and I’m wondering if they are worth it. Hear the maintenance can get a little pricey and they may not be the most durable.
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Anyone have experience with Mini-Coopers?
As soon as the kid gets his license we are passing down our RAV4 to him and getting something new for ourselves. The wife really loves Minis and I’m wondering if they are worth it. Hear the maintenance can get a little pricey and they may not be the most durable.
*raises hand*
I bought a 2014 Mini Cooper (non-turbo) new and put 121K miles on it, primarily on the highway. It was the most fun car I ever owned, and I miss it all the time.
(https://scontent-bos5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.18169-9/1005382_10153165343870111_1918276960_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=7f8c78&_nc_ohc=V_5ZL9O0V_wAX88FpBG&_nc_ht=scontent-bos5-1.xx&oh=00_AfDnQGp2uCP0C6ScyFst8QBAlSq_HNGKE5P2hqGICh16CA&oe=65E844B8)
It was a terrible car to own, though, and that I do not miss. It was in the shop constantly. It chewed through two water pumps in its first 50K miles. I couldn't find a garage to change the oil, so I had to bring it to a Mini dealer every time. The freeze plug decided to fail one afternoon, leaving me with a locked up engine and a ridiculous estimate to fix. $11K or something along those lines. It was out of warranty and I still owed $6000 on the car at the time. I sold it to someone for a few grand and took the L.
(https://scontent-bos5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.18169-9/1506543_10153618720985111_863267178_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=7f8c78&_nc_ohc=k4-w5DWu31YAX80zOn5&_nc_ht=scontent-bos5-1.xx&oh=00_AfAlVvUcUZJD_bisFEIKh8_5xZye0GUfCtMGgO-7v7eDhw&oe=65E8C8F7)
If I was ever in the market for a weekend car, something that'd only get a few thousand miles put on it a year, I'd buy another mini in a heartbeat. As for a daily driver that's going to rack up miles, I'd look for an alternative.
Just my $0.02.
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