The PC thread

[MrBoom_shack-a-lack]

I have a feel this might be a noob fail of epic proportion but anyway I have an interesting problem. I don't know for how long but some time ago I noticed I had a "clone" of one of my HDDs. The reason I say "clone" is because it's not a backup of my HDD, only the seize numbers are the same, like this:



Sorry it's in Swedish but as you can see it's the two HDDs that's called My Book on E: and P: which shares the exact same numbers. The E: drive is my normal HDD and the P: drive is the new/clone one which dosen't contain anything other than gamefiles for a game of ruffly 30MBs???, that's everything that's on the P: drive (no hidden files either) but still it shows that 701 GB is used??

When I go into the diskmanager the P: drive isn't visible:



I have no idea why I have an extra disk signed to P:, when it physically dosen't exist. Maybe I did some tweak by accident without noticing. Did I mess up the disk partitioning somehow, I can't remember when I last changed my partitions.

I should say though that my PC runs like normal, nothing has changed or anything like that. Any suggestions would be most welcome!

[cramx3]

Did you run a disk cleaner to wipe unused space on the cloned drive such as deleted files, but the OS still thinks those disk sectors are used?

[Calvin6s]

My normal troubleshooting sequence would be:

Since it is an external drive,
- Unplug the drive and see what happens with the assigned drive letters
- Perhaps re-establishing a connection (re-plugging it in) will fix it

If not,
- Plug into a different computer.  Does the same thing happen?

I've had situations where the external drive wants to take a drive letter that is used by a network drive letter, so it just remains hidden.  Then you have to go into disk management and assign it a letter (I tend to use X Y or Z for external drives).  But I can't recall ever seeing a drive show up on two letters representing the same drive and partition.  But I'm sure it has happened to someone else.

[Calvin6s]

Is this helpful

[MrBoom_shack-a-lack]

Thx I will try your tips as soons as I come back from work.

Just to clarify one thing: I do not have an external disk signed on the letter P:, it physically dosen't exist. It's purely an icon, shortcut or something that for some reason shares the same seize as my disk on E:

I think you knew what I meant, I just wanted to clarify that.

[MrBoom_shack-a-lack]

Did you run a disk cleaner to wipe unused space on the cloned drive such as deleted files, but the OS still thinks those disk sectors are used?

No i've never used a disk cleaner, atleast not on my external E: disk.

My normal troubleshooting sequence would be:

Since it is an external drive,
- Unplug the drive and see what happens with the assigned drive letters
- Perhaps re-establishing a connection (re-plugging it in) will fix it

If not,
- Plug into a different computer.  Does the same thing happen?

I've had situations where the external drive wants to take a drive letter that is used by a network drive letter, so it just remains hidden.  Then you have to go into disk management and assign it a letter (I tend to use X Y or Z for external drives).  But I can't recall ever seeing a drive show up on two letters representing the same drive and partition.  But I'm sure it has happened to someone else.

I've done the highlighted parts with no luck. For a sec I thought the P: disk was gone but it of course appeared a couple of secs later. I don't have a second PC, have to wait to test that.

Is this helpful

Hmm so I changed the letter on my (E:) to (B:) according to "chowur" and the disk works as usual but the interesting thing is that the P: disk have changed to this:



From My Book (P:) to Local disk (P:), have no idea what that means?

The following message appears when I click on (P:):



Translation:
P:\ is not available. If the path is on this computer, make sure the device or harddrive is connected or the disk is in the reader and try again. If the  path is in the network, make sure that you are connected to the network or internet and try again. If the path still dosen't exist it may have been redirected or been removed.

So it seems the (P:) was some kind of shortcut to (E:) even though it didn't contain any of the content from the E: HDD because now it can't find the path when I changed the letter. Any ideas?

[Calvin6s]

Because it is a storage device that might have very important data for you, I'm a bit hesitant with advice since I haven't run into this personally.  So I'm just giving you some of the things I would try with my HDD.  But then I'm risking only my own data.

I'd wait for advice with those that are pros in the computer field, as opposed to a hobbyist like myself.

But some other things I'd be thinking about
Highly unlikely, but did you assign a network drive that pointed to your external E drive?
What if you assign your B drive (formerly E drive) the letter of P:?

I wouldn't try those until some others have a chance to offer more qualified advice though.  And if you have a chance to backup this data elsewhere as you mess around with it, that would probably be a good idea.

[Calvin6s]

Facing my own problem this weekend.  My DSL internet has been very spotty.  Like I said, I'm just a hobbyist, so I have some knowledge, but probably have gaping holes in fundamentals elsewhere.

It started getting spotty Friday night, was horrible Saturday, and a bit better on Sunday.  It seems ok right now.

Some of the things I've done:
Usually just doing the following helps when my DSL modem seems less than full power:
- Turn modem off
- Check phone line, power line and ethernet cable connections
- Turn modem on
- go into the command line (Win7 Pro)
- ipconfig /release
- ipconfig /renew
BTW - it is a dynamic IP address, not static
Doing that every now and then seems to keep it running on all cylinders most of the time

This time it reconnected to the Net, but severely slow and what seemed like latency or DNS problems

It is the Universal Plug N Play modem (aren't they all these days?), so setting it up from scratch can usually be done via auto settings.  But I went into the modem direct interface (which is still very fast, so that would seem to suggest the hardware is ok).  It has some diagnostic tests, which all come in pass.  It gives the DNS (primary and secondary) IP addresses, so I put those in manually and it seemed to help, but still not full speed.  And every time I think it is running better, it then goes back to crappy.

Now I'm thinking the problem is actually at the ISP and not locally, but they will never admit that of course.  The modem is almost 10 years old, so there is a chance it is just starting to fail.

Anybody have any suggestions for:
- other diagnostics/troubleshooting steps you take with your own DSL modem
- what you look for if you were to just go buy a replacement DSL modem (I'd do this right now, but I hate assuming the problem is the hardware without knowing for sure)

Thanks

[MrBoom_shack-a-lack]

Oh man this is getting funny! So I was just starting to read your reply and agree that I shoudln't do anything hasty before talking with an expert. While thinking about what to do I checked back to see if P: was available to rename and how about that....



It's gone!  Weird as hell, I actually run a virus check on it before just to be sure. I just felt something fishy about it but yea, apparently it's gone.

[Calvin6s]

Facing my own problem this weekend.  My DSL internet has been very spotty.  <snip>

Update:  it was the DSL modem itself going bad.  I was able to recycle it and get more miles out of it, but it just kept breaking itself down faster and faster.

I know everybody hates AT&T, but their tech came out and ran tests I couldn't, replaced the DSL modem (free of charge), did some more line testing and it is running even better than before (so far).  The guy was so good and friendly that I called in to AT&T just to let them know they have a great tech.

But if anybody wants to share internet configuration/troubleshooting tips (ping, flushdns, load balancing, etc) especially for business server/network setups, please do.  I can always learn more since I (and I'm sure others) am not an IT tech by trade, but just as a hobby for my personal and small business use.  (Or share website links for self-training on IT situations that you think was helpful and well programmed.

[Calvin6s]

The computer mouse (has this been discussed elsewhere yet?).  What pointing device are you using and why?

I've been trying to replace my beloved Wireless Intellimouse Explorer 2.0 (think I bought it around 2003) for years.
I like the contours, scroll wheel and two side buttons.  But most importantly, it glides like a dream.

Recent fail replacements:
Logitech M510:  features are good but it is absolutely the worst gliding mouse ever.  My hand actually cramps out using it.  The mouse feet get gummed up fast (on a very clean real wood desk).  It feels horrible right after a cleaning and a half hour later, it is unusable without a thorough mouse feet cleaning.  So much so that the cheap feet eventually came off.

Microsoft Touch Mouse:  glides better than Logitech (by far), but not as good as the 12+year old mouse (sad).  For the first time in 15 years, I'm using a mouse pad again just so it can glide smoother.  But the accuracy seems worse than the old Explorer.  And the one piece two button thing drives me crazy.  I have to concentrate on a right click.  And sometimes the touch scroll works, sometimes it doesn't.  This one I just bought this weekend, and it is probably going back.

Please share if you have found a more recent mouse with the following features (in order of importance):
1. Smooth glide on just about every surface.  My old mouse almost follows my hand instead of my hand pushing it.
2. Two separate right/left click (the new one piece thing seems problematic)
3. Scroll wheel.  Seems common now, but this is more about it being very responsive
4. Two programmable buttons (usually on the side).  The <back> function saves SO MUCH TIME.
5. Larger size (but light in weight):  The explorer mouse is big, but it fits like a glove.  Hate the mobile sized mouse.
6. Wireless.  It just seems easier.  Especially during the weekly desk cleaning.

Any help would be appreciated.  It is harder to test drive a mouse in a brick/mortar store these days.

[cramx3]

Im not mouse expert or have experienced enough mice to be able to form a true opinion, but this is the mouse I use (I game on my PC)

Razer Deathadder

https://www.razerzone.com/gaming-mice/razer-deathadder-chroma

I feel like it fits all your criteria except it is not wireless (I would not go wireless for gaming)

[BlobVanDam]

I've never wanted wireless, or side buttons, and I hate using a mouse on anything but the classic cloth mouse pad, so I have no suggestions.

I've been using the Microsoft optical scroll mouse forever. When I first got it, optical mice were a new thing and it was a high end mouse, whereas now it's just their cheapest mouse. When it comes to mice, all I care about is how comfortable it is with how long I use the computer for, and I like the small comfortable shape of it that I can just grab in my hand. I wear them out quickly, but they're cheap enough that I don't care.
I've only deviated once, by trying out the Microsoft Comfort mouse. I used it for half an hour before giving it away. It was big and bulky and made my hand/wrist hurt after a few minutes, and the scroll wheel design was retarded and was unusable.

[cramx3]

I've never wanted wireless, or side buttons, and I hate using a mouse on anything but the classic cloth mouse pad, so I have no suggestions.

To each his own in terms of comfort and whatnot, but how could you not love those two side buttons?  They are so clutch, I don't think I could ever go back to using a mouse without those buttons just for ease of web browsing alone, let alone programmable for gaming.

[BlobVanDam]

I've never wanted wireless, or side buttons, and I hate using a mouse on anything but the classic cloth mouse pad, so I have no suggestions.

To each his own in terms of comfort and whatnot, but how could you not love those two side buttons?  They are so clutch, I don't think I could ever go back to using a mouse without those buttons just for ease of web browsing alone, let alone programmable for gaming.

I don't do any gaming at all (and if I do, it's a gamepad on an emulator, no PC games), so that's not a factor to me. Plus I'm a master of shortcut keys (plus the browser having key combos to handle all of the useful stuff), so it's of no loss to me personally. As you said, each to his own. I don't consider myself a typical or representative user.

I've also found side buttons get in the way of holding the mouse where I want my fingers to rest. My hands/wrists are really sensitive to that kind of stuff, like RSI or something, so I stick to what's most comfortable for me for long term use.

[Bolsters]

I don't bother with side buttons either. They are never in good positions for me with the way I hold the mouse, and like Blob I prefer keyboard shortcuts anyway.

As for gaming, I don't play FPS games much if at all and I don't play online anymore anyway, so I get by with 1000 CPI. I do like the look of the Orochi but I don't want to pay $75 just for a higher CPI which I don't need 99% of the time.

[MrBoom_shack-a-lack]

Im not mouse expert or have experienced enough mice to be able to form a true opinion, but this is the mouse I use (I game on my PC)

Razer Deathadder

https://www.razerzone.com/gaming-mice/razer-deathadder-chroma

I feel like it fits all your criteria except it is not wireless (I would not go wireless for gaming)

I also use the Deathadder. Works great for everything of course it's a primarily a gaming mouse. Looks cool too!

The scroll wheel have been started to slack lately so I will in the near future buy a new mouse.

[Calvin6s]

Thanks for the Razer Deathadder suggestion.  I've been thinking about going gamer mouse, but there are probably just as many gimmick ones as legitimate ones.  And reading NewEgg reviews (or any reviews) usually has widely varying opinions.  So real use reviews from you guys is extremely appreciated.

I've kind of been considering going back to the corded mouse (sheesh - its the 90s) just because I struck out so badly with the wireless.  I was expecting to be blown away considering my fave mouse is over 10 years old.

I'm not much of a gamer, but I deal with CAD programs so accuracy can be very important.  But mainly, the pointing device should feel like something you don't even think about operating.  You just think it and muscle memory does all the work.  With these new mice, I actually have to think "ok, lift your left finger up so the right finger click will happen the first time.  Oops, your grip is too low, choke up on the mouse a bit and try again ... there it is ... oh wait, now it is renaming the file instead of getting the context menu."  You can only deal with working like that for so long before you go bonkers.

Besides trying out your friend's mouse (which is usually the $2 sale piece of crap), how do you try out a mouse these days?  I hate buying something, returning it, buying a new one, returning it ... until you find the right one or are banned from the store.

[cramx3]

Maybe go into a smaller computer store and see if they have mice you can test?  I really don't know.  I think taking in the reviews and what you are looking for together and find the best products and then I guess use the test and return method.  Im not terribly picky so my deathadder I love but maybe there is a better product, I wouldn't know cause I havent tested others. Ive had my mouse for 4 years now and I still love it.  Thats all I can really say.

[MrBoom_shack-a-lack]

So i'm trying to render a movie in Pinnacle Studio 17. The movie is 3,5gb and roughly 13mins long. I want highy quality  because it's game footage and to not lose quality i'm rendering in 1920x1080, 60fps and H264 format. I use something called Transport Stream (MTS), it seems to be the only format rendering in 60fps. I'm a noob when it comes to stuff like this so excuse my ignorance.

The main reason I ask is because it has freezed two times when trying to export to the specific format. I have closed as many programs as I can but it still happens. I'm at my third time now, so far it's good tough.

I would say I have a good cpu (i7 4770k) but apparently I max it out 100% and even more as i've noticed when running Task Manager, is that really normal or is something wrong? Should I be concerned?

Edit: Nevermind, it worked the third time.

[MetalJunkie]

Went to the store tonight to get the following:

Micro-fiber cloths
Q-tips
Compressed air
91% rubbing alcohol

Going into the city tomorrow to buy thermal paste.

Guess what I'm doing tomorrow?

[Prog Snob]

This is pretty damn cool!

https://www.zdnet.com/article/build-your-own-supercomputer-out-of-raspberry-pi-boards/

[MetalJunkie]

[Prog Snob]

Slight improvement.   

Seriously though, nice job.  I haven't had a tower in so long that I forgot what it's like when  you go so long without cleaning the inside.

[MetalJunkie]

My SWTOR fps went from 15-20 to a steady 60.

[faizoff]

I'm afraid to look at how dusty my tower is right now, I might clean it out one of these weekends. On another note, I had no idea there were solar powered keyboards available when researching on getting a new keyboard. Curiosity got the better out of me and I bought used on ebay, waiting for it to arrive next week.

[MrBoom_shack-a-lack]

When I buildt my latest pc I made sure to install a good airflow with fans, probably the best investment in the long term for my pc. It helps alot in keeping dust away. My previous build had one poor fan in a case with lots of holes, not the best combination.

[cramx3]

I have to do that every so often cause my PC gets filled with not only dust, but cat hair so the fans get dirty quickly.  Luckily for me, I have all the stuff (alcohol wipes and thermal paste) at work so I just take them home and do some cleaning every once and awhile.

I've tried to make better airflow for the inside, but I have so many damn power and SATA cables mixed in there (7 hard drives, GTX770, PCI RAID card, PCI audio/video input card) that there is only so much I can do to make it better.

[Calvin6s]

I have to do that every so often cause my PC gets filled with not only dust, but cat hair so the fans get dirty quickly.

I was going to talk about the pesky cat.  They are drawn to my computer.  Turn my back and they are scratching their back with the computer.  They know they aren't supposed to do it because when I make eye contact with them, they have that "oh crap!! Caught!"  look in their eye as they scatter.

[Chino]

I have to do that every so often cause my PC gets filled with not only dust, but cat hair so the fans get dirty quickly.

I was going to talk about the pesky cat.  They are drawn to my computer.  Turn my back and they are scratching their back with the computer.  They know they aren't supposed to do it because when I make eye contact with them, they have that "oh crap!! Caught!"  look in their eye as they scatter.

Put a bed of aluminium foil around the base of your tower. Dead serious.

[cramx3]

  I tried that with my old cats and it didnt work, but I get the idea behind it.  My old cats just would find a way to jump onto the counter without it making a sound or able to push it off before jumping on it.  And thats why I loved them.  My one cat now though seems like he wouldnt be that smart but I havent tried that yet.  He only has one spot he consistently goes to taht is bad, the tv stand while I watch hockey.  He needs to smack the puck.

[jasc15]

Is there some software similar to windows media center where i can access netflix, hulu, HBO Go, etc?  I've been using an old laptop connected to my TV, but the lack of a so-called 10 foot interface is a bit annoying.

I know there is software such as XBMC, but that seems like it used for local media, not streaming from web channels.  I would like something where I can add various streaming channels.

[cramx3]

Chrome with a tab open for each website? Thats what I do if I hook my laptop up to the TV, but I know thats not what you are looking for.  I've never looked for a dedicated application for this.

[Calvin6s]

Don't PM the XBMC question, because I'd like to see the answers as well.  I'm constantly trying to talk my household into getting rid of Dish Network.  They throw money at me when I even look at an HDTV/media server solution.  And Dish has Netflix.  I had Hulu Plus set up for my PS3, Samsungs, etc.  Nobody ever used it and that includes me.  I think I watched Community and that was it.

[Lucien]

old quote incoming

Win 10 is the only OS that will support DirectX12 so they sure now how to lure in the gamers.

Except for the fact that Valve's Vulkan API (basically a huge overhaul of OpenGL) is so much better than DX12 it will most likely keep DX12 from getting adopted widely